 Poster: A snowHead
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Somewhere to gather collective wisdom and experience of the best mountain restaurants in the area. Lunch is VERY important to me. We are a family of 6 advanced skiers, 4 dedicated carnivores and 2 pescatarians (just to make it harder to please everyone!). Please add any recent experience or recommendations.
Linked to the best and worst toilets threads, interested in any comments on the facilities also. My wife and daughter were less than impressed with some of these last year!
We are returning to Monterosa soon (yay), arriving 10 Feb. Last year, whilst everything was open, conditions were not great with warm weather and quite a bit of soft snow. No off-piste to talk of really. I don't think we got the best of the area as a result and keen to try again. That said, it looks like temperatures are increasing, which they always seem to be when I am due on a resort! I am sure it is because I really like it really cold. I will probably change the title of this to "live" once we are there and update on food, conditions, facilities.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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So. As will be seen from the below, I also like a good lunch. But I can't speak to vegetarian/pescatarian options, as as far as I know all our group were omnivores. I remember people having the occasional fish dish, but I don't remember where!
But last week I ate:
Two very good lunches at Stolemberg (once stewed pork cheeks, once venison, both cooked well in lots of wine and juniper, both times with a large serving of polenta). at least one of the loos (of which there are only two) was two footplates either side of a hole in the ground. Good food, very good value.
Once at Alpenstop, which was probably the best lunch of the week (I had boiled beef with salsa verde). I didn't drink, but from a brief look at the wine list it looked excellent. Loos were fine.
Once at Der Shoppf, also very good, although I can't remember what I ate. Very good food, fantastic views. Long wait for the loos.
Once at Campo Base (venison stew with cheesy polenta and a small glass of red), which I can also strongly recommend. Those who had burgers said they were the best they'd had that week, and they looked excellent (and pleasantly pink in the middle). A bit of a Himalayan twist, and more variety than the other places, but definitely without sacrificing quality. There seemed to be a lot of loos downstairs, and no one had to queue, although again at least some were a hole in the ground.
There was one other place (where I had polenta with fried eggs and bacon), but for the moment I can't remember where it was; I think somewhere between the Passo dei Salati and G-l-T.
Obviously an Alagna bias to that (we were staying at the Hotel Monterosa, and ate and drank very well there; also one night each at Unione and Zam Tachji). But it was pretty hard to eat badly, at least in the company of guides who wanted to ensure we (and they!) weren't stuck on sandwiches!
Enjoy your trip: wishing you excellent snow and cold weather!
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@jmr59, thanks! Very helpful and appreciated. Will play it by ear but if there is some decent snow will do a day or two off-piste/day touring with my daughter. Any recommended guides?
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The list of guides is at https://www.alagna.it/en/corpo-guide-alagna/ . We did four days with Andrea Enzio and two with Boris (Borini Sandro). Both excellent, but slightly different in style. I know they're both booked up (and in Ponte de Legno) this week, but they might be back/available by the time you're there. If you ski with either, please send warmest wishes from Josh.
Boris is a shade more showy, skis off wiggling his hips through the most beautifully tight turns. Andrea is more your classic mountain guide, skiing with economy of effort to conserve energy. Boris also has a reputation (to which he more than lives up) for taking you close to/over rocks: the two days with him were the two after which the soles of my skis needed patching. (In Sport Haus they said not to bother repairing them if we were skiing with him again the following day, and after two days with Boris Andrea said 'I hope you still have a piece of your skis'). But he does so in (successful) search for good snow, so in my view it's a price worth paying.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Ah, yes: Morgenrot was the place I’d forgotten, where Boris took us. Really nice downstairs area on the downhill side, & very good food.
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@Scrunch77, Thanks! I have not tried Morgenrot but sounds like a good shout. And really helpful, and nifty, of you to post the locations. Thanks for taking the time.
Forecast to get warmer, and warmer in the next week or two. As usual when I am booked to go!
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Another mountain restaurant recommendation:
La Mandria
+39 347 829 3219
https://maps.app.goo.gl/13BaVfRczCHB99q47?g_st=ic
Great service, great food, great music. The venison burger in a toasted bun and accompanying chips were fantastic! Proper toilets too.
Credit for the restaurant recommendations goes to our instructor/guide for the week, Giacomo of the Scuola Sci Gressoney Monterosa.
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@Scrunch77, Thanks for the tip on both restaurant and guide. Hope you had a great trip!
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Had a great time. The fresh snow that arrived on Tuesday is holding up well due to the cold temperatures, so there was still off-piste to be had on Friday.
I enjoyed our final lunch at Rifugio Gabiet. Limited menu including the classics (plate of mixed charcuterie and cheese, piping hot lasagne al forno, delicious tagliatelle with venison ragu). But hole-in-the-ground loos unfortunately.
+39 0125 189 1506
https://maps.app.goo.gl/CM2CikAwYcbWYSNa6?g_st=ic
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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@Scrunch77, Thanks and glad you had a great time! Will add Gabiet to the list, need to check if they can satisfy the two oddballs in my family who don't eat meat though.
Looks like a warm weekend followed by very cold next week, limited snow expected (snow-forecast showing a few cams which usually means nothing). Cold when we arrive on Friday next week then predicted to get gradually warmer, of course because the weather gods know I am coming and know I like it cold! Now I think about it, it seems years and years ago since I have a proper cold and wintery Feb holiday. And some of them have been ridiculously warm despite us always going relatively high. Spring has almost always been better for us. Really annoying!
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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From my one visit to the area on the Gnarlibug a few years back, I enjoyed the Orestes Hutte - off piste access only and a very limited vegetarian menu, but lovely.
The other lunch I really enjoyed was the last of the week before the taxi to the airport when I ate in the Hotel Dufour - we'd normally just head out for the full day, you rarely eat at the place you're staying. In this case I'd skiied all morning and come back to change for te trip home. Food was excellent all week to be fair, but that was the only lunch I had there
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@nbt, Thanks! Thats a good shout. Restaurants at valley level are often a bit overlooked in terms of ski lunches, which is a pity in my experience. Hotel Dufur is right next to the lift right?
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You know it makes sense.
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@zikomo, “Restaurants at valley level are often a bit overlooked ”
That’s (to me) a strange comment, esp. when you consider eg Monterosa or PdS where you often cross several valleys?
Anyway, there’s a newish nice place literally skiers left at the bottom of Moos, in Stafal.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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@under a new name, It's not really, I know lots of people that would only look for a lunch place higher up ion the pistes when on a ski holiday. Which I have always thought misses out on some great places. I get the joy of being up high etc, but to be honest I am not the biggest fan of eating outdoors when it is cold (and sunny), would rather be inside!
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Poster: A snowHead
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@zikomo, ah, that just shows a lack of imagination then.
I think the restaurant is called the Fitzroy. Sadly, as I am off games, I won't be checking it out myself. We're popping over for a night or two on Sunday. Mrs U might.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Isnt the point / a feature of Monterosa that there are loads of food places and they are all good, hence the recommended one is the one you are near when youre hungry?
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@t44tomo, Hmm, they are mostly all good, but some are better than others and some are not so good ...
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@under a new name, Hope all goes well wit your knee! Keep up the good spirits. And let me know if Mrs U has any further insights!
BTW - which ones are NOT good??
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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@zikomo, cheers.
Hmmm, I now feel bad, and not wanting to diss anyone. Also, I am now out of date having done one day over there in December and nothing else. Question marks over the Belvedere on Crest home run, Edelweiss at top of Crest bubble ...
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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Guys - where is good then to eat / drink in area at top of first Gondola up to Crest?
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@zikomo, We too noticed the fairly high proportion of hole-in-the-ground loos on the mountain, but some restaurants also had an accessible toilet with a conventional throne!
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| nbt wrote: |
| From my one visit to the area on the Gnarlibug a few years back … the other lunch I really enjoyed was the last of the week before the taxi to the airport when I ate in the Hotel Dufour - we'd normally just head out for the full day, you rarely eat at the place you're staying. In this case I'd skiied all morning and come back to change for te trip home. Food was excellent all week to be fair, but that was the only lunch I had there |
I stayed at the Hotel Dufour a week ago in a larger group. Nice hotel, comfy lounge bar, lovely management and staff, but dinner was average. Perhaps lunch ‘a la carte’ is better, but personally I wouldn’t bother when there are so many fantastic restaurants up the mountain with great views and sunshine and better food. (Dufour is by no means in a picturesque spot either!)
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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@Adamski, certainly last year the Cré Forné hotel was good. it's a small walk up from the top of the bubble. I suspect we'll lunch there on Monday ... The Edelweiss below the Crest station is OK, if a little basic.
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Rascard Frantze just below Crest at Champoluc, my favourite for their cheeses/meats platter and quaffable house wine.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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@skimastaaah, is it open for lunch? Wasn’t for a while …
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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| skimastaaah wrote: |
| Rascard Frantze just below Crest at Champoluc, my favourite for their cheeses/meats platter and quaffable house wine. |
I am keen to know if it is open for lunch, as has been recommended to me by others.
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You know it makes sense.
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| zikomo wrote: |
| skimastaaah wrote: |
| Rascard Frantze just below Crest at Champoluc, my favourite for their cheeses/meats platter and quaffable house wine. |
I am keen to know if it is open for lunch, as has been recommended to me by others. |
Stayed there a few summers back for a week in summer. Superb experience. The ladies treated my lad as their grandson and always asked him if he wanted extra desert 
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Have a good list of places to try now, although always keep to hear more!
Still disappointed at the lack of snow, but hopefully at least the pistes remain in good nick. Saying that the forecast has reverted to the warm side for our week - and I know I should not be looking that far out but always do anyway!
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Poster: A snowHead
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| zikomo wrote: |
| skimastaaah wrote: |
| Rascard Frantze just below Crest at Champoluc, my favourite for their cheeses/meats platter and quaffable house wine. |
I am keen to know if it is open for lunch, as has been recommended to me by others. |
It’s not opened for lunch for a couple of years now, only the bar. But you can go there for dinner which is well worth it
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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@_sam_?, that's what I thought.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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We are now in Champoluc. Quite easy trip yesterday, queue for passport control was about 15 mins at Milan but skis and bags were waiting for us when we got through. Avis gave me a rather beat up vito but it seemed to work ok! Lovely day here, cold this morning so am enjoying that while is lasts! Will report later on conditions and lunch!
Btw had an excellent dinner at Lo Bistrot last night. It has indeed gone upmarket, with corresponding prices. Full of well healed Italians. Excellent wine list. Dinner was 329 euro for 6 of us, but did include a 90 euro bottle of outstanding wine, which I thought was worth it.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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@zikomo, but how was the food?
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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These "holes in the ground" you are all disparaging are presumably properly plumbed, properly drained, flushing efforts? When my sister skied in Bulgaria, years ago, she said the toilets actually were holes in the ground, which many people had missed. It was very cold when she was there, and she said she didn't like to think of the state of them in the spring thaw.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
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@under a new name, excellent. Marinated trout and the risotto were great. Shallot tart tatin was outstanding. I had tagliata which was also very good, I asked for it “too rare” and that is exactly what I got, which is not always the case. Splendid wine list as you well know.
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@zikomo, that's good to hear. we were not impressed in August.
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| pam w wrote: |
| These "holes in the ground" you are all disparaging are presumably properly plumbed, properly drained, flushing efforts? When my sister skied in Bulgaria, years ago, she said the toilets actually were holes in the ground, which many people had missed. It was very cold when she was there, and she said she didn't like to think of the state of them in the spring thaw. |
I didn’t see any that weren’t. Nothing against squatting to poo-poo (indeed, I prefer it, all things being equal), but for many people (myself included) it’s not ideal when wearing multiple layers of bottoms, over ski boots—it’s far too easy to hit your trousers on the way down.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Quick report from today. Pistes are in pretty good condition. There are a few bumps/softer snow/hard pack but nothing to write home about. Gresonney valley seemed much colder and better snow that Champoluc/Frachey. Some queues at key points as always it seems at Frachey but it was ok. It was relatively busy but not unpleasantly so. It was the traditional first day with just me and the three boys so we skied fast, covered most of Champoluc and Gressoney, lunch (late!) was pizza at Betaforca which has also become a tradition for the Saturday. Quick, tasty and good music!
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Forgot to add that the regrading from red to black of the Goat and home run to Champoluc has definitely reduced numbers skiing them. The Pistone (seems only newbies call it Del Bosco!) was quiet when we skied it at peak home time. And was in quite good condition, a bit scraped in parts but plenty of grip to be found.
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