 Poster: A snowHead
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Travelled yesterday (13/01/23) out to Austria. Flights from Bristol to Innsbruck with Easyjet. 0705 departure time, arriving 1005.
We're very fortunate in that we live fairly local to Bristol Airport. So a 0400 alarm, and we set off at 0444, arrived 0517, and was sat in departures having checked in our bags, and passed security by 0550. 1hr 5mins, pretty good going. Would have been even quicker if we were in a car park at the terminal rather than the long stay which involves a bus ride.
All smooth at Bristol, everyone on the plane (75% full) and doors closed by 0645, to hear an announcement from the pilot that fog in Innsbruck meant we had been advised to wait 1 hour in Bristol, rather than circling around Innsbruck. As it happened we taxied to another bit of the apron as we were blocking in some plans, by which time the fog in Innsbruck had cleared and we were on our at about 0725, just 20 minutes late.
We landed in Innsbruck just 5 minutes late at 1010, and I was super impressed that we got through security, collected bags (inc. ski bag) and picked up our hire car and set off by 1046! Super efficient.
Day 1 Afternoon
We drove from the airport to Alpbach in just over an hour with a quick pitstop at a services. We got kitted up and bought 2 x 9 day SuperSki passes.
We fly home on the morning of Sunday 22nd Jan, with accomodation in Saalbach 13-21 Jan, so we decided to ski somewhere en route to Saalbach on the 13th and then ski somewhere on the way back to Innsbruck on the 21st, before spending the night in Innsbruck.
I'd made a bit of a plan that we'd ski St Johann im Tirol on the 13th and then possibly somewhere in the Zillertal valley on the way back. In the end we landed on Alpbach as it was closer to Innsbruck so we could get more skiing, and then we'd do slightly more driving afterwards.
Alpbach was a nice area, the piste map can be seen here:
https://piste-maps.co.uk/Piste-Maps/Austria/SkiJuwel-Alpbachtal-Wildschoenau-Piste-Map-2022.pdf
We only skied from lift W1 as far across as lift W5, but covered the majority of those runs in our afternoon. Piste conditions in the main were decent, bar the run back down to the bottom of W1 which was a strip of fake snow through fields. Weather again was nice, not cold at all, plus a few degrees.
Lunch in the Kafner Ast was very reasonable, 2 x currywurst and chips, 1 x large beer, 1 x diet coke €28.
This isn't a resort suitable to beginners in my opinion. The majority of the blue runs we skied are just tracks/roads, some of which are so narrow they're walking paths, you couldn't get a vehicle up them. In the main, the red runs were pretty steep as well. Enjoyed our time here and was surprised at the number of english voices we heard, I was expecting none, but heard a fair few.
Drive over to our apartment in Saalbach was fine, passing through numerous ski towns, plus a quick stop in the Interspar in Saalfelden for some food.
Dinner in the Soul House was incredibly underwhelming. It's a really cool building and is probably great for après beers, but we wouldn't eat there again.
Day 2
A very relaxed start this morning and we were skiing by 1015ish. The plan was to ski the runs in the Kohlmais area and then make our way east along the piste map towards the Großer Asitz, where we made it as far as the Polten 8er chair. We ticked off most of the runs around that area across the day. We dropped back down in to Saalbach for lunch, which we ate at Schattbergstube and was very nice.
Had our first taste of the legendary Saalbach Après ski stopping at the Berger Alm for their 2-4-1 between 1530-1630. 4 beers for €11.20 was incredible value. Then a ski down to Saalbach where we went in to Bergi's, and also Schwips then back to the apartment for dinner.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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@swskier, looks lovely, and good plan to visit somewhere on the way to Saalbach. Snow looks good. Are you there for the week now or will you continue touring different ski areas?
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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| denfinella wrote: |
| @swskier, looks lovely, and good plan to visit somewhere on the way to Saalbach. Snow looks good. Are you there for the week now or will you continue touring different ski areas? |
We're staying in Saalbach until next Saturday, however as we have the hire car i'd like to get round to some other places, even if it's just Zell am See and Kaprun. Would love to get over to Wagrain as I was there 15 years ago on a school trip, and wouldn't mind exploring again.
We'll then pick somewhere for the day next Saturday between here and Innsbruck, likely St Johann, the Skiwelt or Zell am Ziller.
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| Quote: |
Enjoyed our time here and was surprised at the number of english voices we heard, I was expecting none, but heard a fair few
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We went to Alpbach many years ago - and discovered that there were long-standing British links with Alpbach, with many families going back year after year and staying with local families with "zimmer frei". My son and GF stayed on after our chalet holiday and aimed to get jobs ( he spoke pretty fluent German). Got a cheap room with a local woman, then he smashed his ankle toboganning after a couple of days. Through a haze of pain he heard a familiar voice saying "looks like you need a hand mate". Turned out to be a lad he sometimes met in a pub in Portsmouth, who'd been going to Alpbach with his family since he was about 6 and adored the place. He and the chalet-boy got him off the slope and into an ambulance and the lovely landlady drove his girlfriend in to see him in Innsbruck hospital the following day, after his ankle had been stuck back together with ironmongery. When he flew home a few days later, I met them at Gatwick, son in a wheelchair, and gave the Portsmouth lad a lift home. The ski area was not so linked up back then, I think.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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@pam w, well, interesting to hear some history on the place. I know Crystal Ski run holidays there, so I shouldn't have been so surprised to hear the english voices.
It was noticeably quieter there vs today in Saalbach, some pistes here were incredibly busy today. Hoping it was because it was a nice day, a weekend and a smattering of new snow that brought all the crowds out and that it'll quieten down through the week.
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We went with Inghams, in what was supposed to be a catered chalet, but turned out to be an annex with no decent kitchen alongside a hotel in which we were fed pretty grim food, on a table set aside in a corner, away from the half board guests. But the "chalet lad" was lovely, came armed with a book of his grandma's best cake recipes and was a great help when son broke his ankle. I'd like to go back to Alpbach sometime - our beginners didn't find it too bad? OH and I had intermediate sort of lessons with a very good instructor who had spent two years teaching in Loughborough and spoke better English than we did.
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Any reason you choose Innsbruck over Salzburg from BRS? St Joan in Tyrol is prob the furthest East I would go from Inns & ditto resort for furthest west from Sazl.
Can understand if it is purely down to flight times. AM arrival + car is better than PM arrival
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@swskier, I believe there is a British army connection with Alpbach, been a couple of times and what a beautiful small Austrian village it is
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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@Gored, yes, Innsbruck means we can do Friday to Sunday and get 9 days skiing in, whereas Salzburg is Saturday to Saturday for us from Bristol, so for an extra day's annual leave, we can get 3 more days skiing. The drive wasn't too bad, especially as we broke it up with a ski.
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Day 3
Quite a warm day today, flat light initially, brightened up around lunch time, before weather came in and light snow showers at the top of the mountain, and sleety rain down in town.
We started the day heading up the Schattberg Xpress gondola right up to the top station where we lapped the Limberg 4er lift a few times, skiing both Blue 2 and Red 3.
We then headed down to the Schattberg Sprinter up to the top of Schattberg West, and took the red 8 down to the Bergstadl restaurant for a late morning drink and a Germknodel for me and Apple strudel for Mrs Swskier. Really reasonably priced, the two sweets were €6.50 each with custard. Total with a coffee and coke as well was €20.20.
We then carried on down to Hinterglemm with a quick lap on the Unterschwarzachbahn gondola before heading up the Kogel 12er gondola to the top.
We then lapped the top half of this half a dozen or so times on blue 30 as it was a great carving piste before a pit stop in Breitfußalm.
Back to the top of Kogel 12er and then down red 40 to the bottom before we took the bus back home.
Weather is forecast to be on off snow showers most of the week and temperatures dropping with the freezing level hitting sea level by Friday, so we should be in for some good conditions.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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Thanks for the continued report, glad you're having a good time - really want to go back to Saalbach, especially seeing the pudding picture.. 
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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I'd recommend a day out in Maria Alm doing the Konigstour. Park at the Natrunbahn and follow the signs! The Zachofalm is a really nice lunch spot - different to some of the standard offerings. Finish off with a sundowner at the Tom Hutte.
I'll be around Saalbach and Leogang tomorrow, do keep and eye out for your old jacket!
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@Klamm Franzer, think we're going to head to Wagrain tomorrow, but will keep Maria Alm on the cards for later in the week, it's a real short journey from here isn't it!
Think we have another 3 days to tick off the majority of the runs/areas in the area, so we will probably have another day out. Then we just need to make a choice on where to ski next Saturday.
If you're here for the week i'll keep an eye out for the jacket!
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You know it makes sense.
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@swskier, Thanks for this ... following with interest. Head to Saalback on Saturday, and can almost smell/taste the berger alm!
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Poster: A snowHead
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Day 5
We skied the remainder of the main valley up above Hinterglemm today that we hadn't touched before. Up the Bernkogelbahn to start off and working our way up the valley along to the Spieleck 6er and then back again for a pint at the Goaßstall before getting the bus back to Saalbach.
We had a stop late lunch time at the Die Alm 1350 for a drink and kaiserschmarr'n which was very nice, slightly on the pricier side for the area, but not too bad.
When we first started skiing, it was nice and sunny, but as the day went on the clouds came in, and with that visibility went.
Around the top of the Bernkogelbahn seemed a good place for beginners, with a nice wide gentle blue run up there, like wise some nice blues above the Reiterkogelbahn.
Day 6
We ventured over to Zell am See for the morning using the ZellamSeeXpress lift in Viehhofen. It had been snowing all night and was snowing when we headed up also.
Lovely snow on the pistes that chopped up pretty quickly. The sun did make an appearance after an hour or so.
We then headed back over to Saalbach up the Schönleitenbahn, and lapped the runs around the Großer Asitz, and the snow came back and visibility went with it.
Stopped for a drink in the AsitzBraü which is an amazing building
Little bit more skiing, before a kaiserschmarr'n in the Hochwartalm which for us was the nicest we've had so far.
Down to the Berger Alm for a few drinks, skied down in darkness to Bauers then home.
Day 7
We drove over to Maria Alm today and did the Königs Tour to Mülbach and back again. It seems a really nice area, the lower elevation vs Saalbach was obvious on the runs down to the lower lifts, and the visibility was poor so we didn't get to see any scenery.
A great day trip out though, and an area we'd visit again. It was on off snowing all day, and there'd been a decent amount over night also.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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@swskier, great report and pics. Seems like you're having a great week. Following in anticipation of Saalbach trip late March.
Have to let us know where you rate for best Kaiserschmarrn as several fans here!
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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We did the Konigstour today too! Nice and quiet, lovely lunch in the Zachofalm and a couple of beers in the Tom Hutte to finish. I can confirm it is very pretty when you can see where you're going 
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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@Klamm Franzer, quiet indeed! The first time all week we've had quiet pistes. Didn't spot that old coat of mine.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Day 8
Last day in Saalbach for us. We wanted to spend some time on blue runs this morning so the GF could work on some bits of technique. So we headed up the Bernkogelbahn and lapped the Bernkogel 6er a few times, before making our way round and up the D6 lift.
We then lapped blue 80 and the Sunliner 4er chair for a while, with a stop at the Reiteralm hut for a drink, and they even did us some apple strudel at 10.30, when they don't do food until 11. It was a great strudle, the custard had more vanilla flavour than others, and it was definitely our favourite strudle of the week!
We had already made a decision we were having lunch at the AsitzBraü over towards Leogang, so around 11.30 we started heading over that way.
A Tyroler Gröstl for me, and ribs for her ladyship. Very nice, and a great building, with all sorts of weird and wonderful things to look at.
A few more runs, before heading back down to Saalbach, this time down blue 151 for the first time, which was a nice change, and was empty, unlike blue 152 which is always heaving at the end of the day.
There's a SkiMo event going on in the town today, Mountain Attack, which kicked off at 4 o'clock while we sat in Bergi's having a drink. https://www.mountain-attack.at/en/
The Marathon event is 3010m of ascent, and takes the winners around 2hrs 15mins!!! We're going to head in to town to watch them finish and have a drink.
You can see them heading straight up the Schattberg black run here.
Madness.
Tomorrow we're going to head over to Zell am Ziller for the day, before we then spend the night in Innsbruck
Last edited by Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do. on Sat 21-01-23 18:07; edited 1 time in total
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Many thanks for this interesting report. We’re heading to zell am see on 4 March and hoping for more snow there as it looks a bit light atm. People talk of glacier skiing nearby if zell is in trouble but I’m not sure which resort that glacier is.
I can’t imagine skiing in a race for 2 1/4 hours. These people are machines!!
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@bambionskiis, the glacier they talk of is Kaprun, on the Kitzsteinhorn. We didn't ski there this week, but could see the area just round the corner from Zell am See when we drove to Wagrain.
Snow is fine now, it's been snowing most days since we've been here pretty much, and they've had the cannons on as well. As long as there's no horrendously hot spells, you'll be fine.
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Day 9
We packed up the car, nipped in to the Billa for some breakfast and hit the roads heading to Zell am Ziller for the day. It was just over a 2hr drive back towards Innsbruck, so by the time we got there it was about 11 that we started skiing.
https://skimap.org/data/643/1/1668837400jpg_render.jpg
Today was cold! Zell am Ziller village is only at 575m elevation, and it was -2 in the car park, at the middle station of the Karspitzbahn gondola was around -7.
There'd been a good amount of snow overnight and through the week there, and we saw skiers in boot to knee deep powder off piste as we were riding up lifts.
We did a few runs in Zell before heading round to Gerlos for lunch. The link between the two isn't great, it's a red run with some flat/uphill pitches, and as visibility was poor (snowing and we were in the clouds) it made for some tricky spots, especially the snowboarders we saw.
Lunch at Seppi's was nice, similar prices to Saalbach so slightly on the dear side, but not break the bank.
After lunch we did a couple of runs in Gerlos then back round to Zell am Ziller. This route currently involves taking the Krimml-X-press lift which is long, and freezing. I've never felt so cold on a ski trip as I did by the end of that lift, both my big toes felt like they were going to fall off.
As it was around 2.30, and we were both freezing and could see virtually nothing, we headed back to the middle station of the Karspitzbahn gondola and took that back down to the car park.
We had a great day, despite the weather, and would love to see the area again. It was clear that there was some great off piste to be had, and we've barely scratched the surface here.
Short drive down to Innsbruck where there's around 2 inches of snow on parked cars and bikes, and we checked in to the Hotel Schwarzer Adler which is very nice, especially for the price we paid, €111 for the night. Dropped the car back to the airport and jumped on the F bus and will shortly be heading out for a wander and some food.
Overall thoughts
We've had a great holiday. The weather has been snowing most of the time we've been here, so visibility hasn't always been great, and pistes chopped up, but no complaints there.
We really liked the town of Saalbach, and loved the après at the various Alm's and bars at the bottom. The apartment we had was great for a studio, and much bigger than you'd find in French resorts, for a similar price. The block also had a pool and sauna which was great.
Some negatives though. The way the resort of Saalbach is laid out, the lifts are at the top of end of the town, and as far as I could see, there was no way of getting a bus near the lifts, so an uphill slog through town in the mornings, as our apartment was at the bottom near the BP garage. I could have missed something here, but it wasn't obvious there was any buses up to the lifts.
I actually found the skiing in Saalbach fairly uninspiring. It all felt a bit samey. Admittedly, we didn't ski the Fieberbrunn area, but we saw most of the rest of the areas.
Our favourite areas we skied were on the day trips to Wagrain and Maria Alm, so perhaps that says something.
We'd definitely go back to Saalbach again, but won't be rushing back any time soon.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Thanks for all your updates @swskier. It sounds like you were a bit unlucky with the weather / visibility but you certainly made the most of your regional lift pass!
What was your overall impression of Zell am Ziller / Gerlos? I've always thought it looked like an underrated ski area.
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@swskier, Enjoyed your reports and photos 
When I stayed at the bottom end of town I always started up the S-Xpress and then looped round via blue 2 if going that way.
You missed out by not going to Feiberbrunn IMV as the run down to there is a peach and the skiing and atmosphere once over there are quite different from the main S-bach H-glemm area
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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@denfinella, we really like the Zillertal Arena, and both said we'd like to go back and do it justice. We talked about maybe using Mayrhofen as a base for the next holiday.
@red 27, would have liked to have seen Fieberbrunn it just didn't work out this time.
One of my biggest gripes that I missed out from the summary was just the busyness of all the pistes in the area, and that actually included Zell am See and Wagrain also.
I think the fact it was the pre dutch week didn't help in Saalbach, and perhaps some fresh snow that brought everyone out, but it was some of the busiest slopes i've ever seen.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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| swskier wrote: |
One of my biggest gripes that I missed out from the summary was just the busyness of all the pistes in the area, and that actually included Zell am See and Wagrain also. |
That seems to be consistent across lots of resorts all over the Alps - pent up demand after lockdown restrictions
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@swskier, @red 27, yep, Portes du Soleil has seemed unusually busy for low season these past few days.
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You know it makes sense.
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@red 27, @denfinella, interesting. Last season we did a week in the dolomites in January and still lots of mask restrictions, green pass etc, but wasn't too busy. Long weekends in March and at Easter in PDS and Tignes also not too bad, which was why I found this week so noticeable, but perhaps it is a common theme.
It's good and bad I guess, depending on what side you're on, but if you're a business relying on tourists, there can't be any gripes.
Hopefully when I'm out again later in the season it'll be quieter again.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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@swskier, ah right thanks.
Hope you get back out again 
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Poster: A snowHead
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@swskier, “ One of my biggest gripes that I missed out from the summary was just the busyness of all the pistes in the area, and that actually included Zell am See and Wagrain also.”
Might be something to do with a third of pistes being closed (98 out of 155 open today, according to Saalbach’s website). That includes many people’s favourite, piste 168 (7km), which was always a welcome haven from the hoi polloi.
And some of the pistes are narrower than usual, E.g. the lower half of the Bernkogel.
It’s still a lot better than many resorts further west, and it’s getting better all the time. But you can’t have everything. People can’t spread out and look for quieter pistes as they can in a normal season. Having said all that, I haven’t encountered any queues or much noticeable congestion on my outings.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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@tatmanstours, no issues with queues at all, just the pistes felt busy.
Makes sense re % of slopes open. Tbh, I didn't look at how many were open, and don't know the area to know whether there was pistes closed or not.
Certain runs were almost always busy, because they're routes home like the blue down under the magic 6er lift (166?) towards the Bergeralm.
It just generally felt busier than I'm used to, but appreciate there could be a number of reasons for that.
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FAQ
