 Poster: A snowHead
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I was told quite explicitly by a very good tech never to file the base edge bevel angle - just leave it alone since it is extremely easy with a hand guide to screw it up. So I never have. I have sharpened many many side edges (89 or 8 using exactly the procedure I was taught - taking plastic off with a sidewall plane, working down through the files, finishing with a diamond polish, and watching that any burr is being created…and remove that with a gummy.
But just to keep up with things I have watched a couple of US videos including a Swix clinic video. These all start with making a few passes along the base edge - and I just never do this. Should I? I was told not to…the SWIX video even uses a Fitzwilliam file on the base edge. Brutal.
This is what Jon Coster says - after a stone grind the edge angle needs to be set …. Then ‘…. Once the base edge angle has been set all future tuning should be to the side edge only….
Interesting additions….a couple of these fail to mention the need for a sidewall plane and the Swix video uses a panzer file in an 83 guide. Also these guys all use their diamond files dry which seems weird - they should be used wet surely….
Last edited by Poster: A snowHead on Wed 18-01-23 11:47; edited 1 time in total
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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@valais2, exactly what I was told re base edge - get it set by a professional, as it's a right pain and easy to get wrong without a proper machine) then leave it alone - beyond basic maintenance (take down any obvious issues from damage, gummi off burrs or rust etc)
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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They don't really change much in use to need frequent attention I feel.
I do file them though if needed with a flat metalwork file used as "drawfile" technique with appropriate tape around the file to set the angle accordingly (not using a guide) and clean up if there's some stone damage.
I've background in engineering training, using files to micrometer accuracy, metal cutter grinding to three angles in helix etc, so an outlyer in skillset to work with this.
Also I hand finish the base when I need to rather than get them machine ground, then reset the base angle. This fir skis, boards a little more difficult for base because of width.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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I set the base bevel on new skis using a 1 degree guide and file. I will then tend to leave it alone unless I hit a rock and burr the edge in which case I will then smoothen it with a coarse diamond in the 1 degree guide.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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When i was trained the basics were - the stone is only there to structure the ski, it's not there to grind the edges or indeed take much off the base. It's job is to put structure in. Our process was always to file the ski flat first of all , generally only required once to derail the ski. Then hand file the base edge (.5 or 1 deg normally - i always preferred .5), edge the ski and then 2 passes on the stone - tail first then tip first (depended on structure, wider structure for spring needed only 1 pass). Debur with a gummi, clean, wax, brush, done.
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