 Poster: A snowHead
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Hello all,
Just returned from a short new years trip to Montgenevre
Travel - Train
Transfers - Snowcab
Accom - Hotel Valerie
Ski Hire - Skimium Planet Blanche
We try to avoid flying so took the train. Route was St Pancras-Gare Du Nord, underground to Gar Du Leon, Gar Du Leon-Oulx, then 25min transfer to resort. I cant remember the times out but on the way back pick up from hotel 07:20 arrival at St Pancras 17:45 to give an idea of times. This also included a two hour break in Paris for lunch. Travel out was fairly straightforwards until we got to the penultimate stop and had to swap trains with another full train! Some issue with the track. That was 15 mins of choas, but apart from that it was pretty smooth.
Transfers there and back by Snowcab were perfect. Arriving bang on time as agreed. This is the second year I have used them and fully recommend them.
Hotel Valerie is in a great location and while not particular fancy, was fine for us. Breakfast cost extra and was continental with the option of cooking your own eggs and toast. No boot heaters in the ski room.
Planet Blanche was great, some excellent new gear. Im sure hiring at the start of the season helps but it was nice.
Onto the resort. We went to Montgenvre because of the train access and it seems pretty beginner friendly. I was pretty impresed with the layout and enjoyed the runs I skied on. I only skied part of the resort as I was with my learning partner or out with a teacher myself.
The snow was ok but it felt more like March than January. The short days were also quite obvious as I felt I could have skied more but the lifts shut early.
My biggest issue with the resort was the lifts. There are only 3? express chair lifts. Most of the lifts are fixed speed and are soooooo slooooooow. They were not turned down to save power as they were still taking your knees off when you got on them. This was a real issue and I felt I spent a lot of my time sat on a lift compared to other resorts.
As my partner was learning I also got some 1 to 1 lessons. Something I have not done in many years. I am a pretty proficient skier but have wanted to carve and also just get some pointers on my technique. At first it was a struggle as I was unlearning all my bad habits. I felt my technique was deteriorating and I was beggining to think I had wasted a lot of money. However halfway through the second day, something clicked and it all came together and I ended up a stronger skier. I strongly recommend giving it a go. This was with ESF (Stefan)
We were there over New Years and saw the excellent display put on by the town, then later on the whole town erupted on midnight.
I would recomment Montgenvre for starters and would love to go back if they get their lift system upgraded.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Sounds like a lovely holiday. I had forgotten about the New Year celebrations there - brought back happy memories. I totally agree with you on the lifts - it’s one of the reasons why we haven’t been back for a number of years - it’s a fantastic resort for beginners but once both children were competent (having had excellent lessons from A-Peak ski school), we moved onto a bigger resort with faster lifts.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Monty was my second ski holiday. Loved it and the area.
Pretty much learnt to ski on the Gondrans.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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I was there between Christmas and New Years and they are going to upgrade a number of lifts, e.g. they made add some cabins for Rocher de L'aigle and convert some of the lifts into faster 4 seaters. Agreed that it is great for beginners/family - I took mine there this time and they all really enjoyed it with the tree-lined runs, but the weather was definitely springtime like. Notwithstanding, it was skiable and Italian lunches are always nice.
@turboblackbeard thanks for listing how you got there; we drove but the train option is less tiresome; I will look into that for the future.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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@turboblackbeard how much did you pay for the train?
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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Thanks for the report, we're heading out there Feb half term with a number of families and mixed abilities of kids & adults, so hopefully something for everyone. Flying but using Snowcabs for the transfer so good to hear.
Not looking forward to the lifts by the sounds of things.............although we're just back from Vancouver and the lifts in Cypress and Whistler were painfully slow, so I may be conditioned to it by now 
Did you get over to the Italian side much? Any recommendations for food/drinks etc?
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I wouldn't get too worried about the lifts, especially if you have mixed abilities and kids as that gives them a chance to rest. TBH, I only felt that a couple of the lifts were somewhat long, but not to the point where I was bored. Some also have cabins. It is very pretty and my family were really happy.
In terms of Italy, I popped over every day as the morning sun was hitting the slopes so the conditions were just right and not crowded. If you pull out the piste map, there are two ways over:
1) Up Rocher de l'Aigle and then down either a short black, an blouge (red/blue) which then splits into a blue or a red. The blue was closed when I was there. Depending on the snow conditions, i.e. if icy/not much snow, I don't recommend this for beginners - it is doable, but there were quite a few people/young kids who seemed to struggle (my kids were fine but they are confident on reds and some blacks and are kids so are immune to fear); or
2) from the bottom of the resort, you basically just push yourself along the green "Liaison Montgenevre Claviere" until you get to the Italian lift "La Coche" (this one is the slowest lift I was on). I went this way with my wife and kids as my wife is still recovering from an unrelated injury. NOTE - the stretch between the centre of the resort until the end of the town in Obelisque is flat and hard work if not fit. I took the family up PRARIAL and then down the blue Le Vallon and then it is quite easy. If you are staying in the Obelisque section of town, just get on the slope and ski to the left.
When you get to Italy:
If up "La Coche", there will be two restaurants, one the Mont Soleil which is closer to you and another on the other side of the piste. I ate at the latter in March and it was good; am told that the Mont Soleil is good too.
If you want to have more options, get off "La Coche" and ski over to "Serre Granet" and either go all the way to the top and eat at La Baita (they have upstairs seating for restaurant from 1200 and a separate cafe which is very good) OR ski down to Le Gimont (gimont.eu) by getting off at the half way stop on this lift and skiing down to it. It is a yellow building. You may want to book in advance as half-term. You more or less arrive at this one if you came over route 1) mentioned above.
Personally, I found the Italian food better and cheaper. Depending on the snow conditions, the red runs down from the top of Serre Granet are really blouges and quite fun; you can do a few laps to digest before returning to Montgenevre.
NOTE - La Coche and Serre Granet work on the Montgenevre ski pass. Some of the other Italian lifts will not, but you are never stuck, just more skiing.
Just realised this is a massive response, hope it makes sense!
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| Tradstyle wrote: |
| I wouldn't get too worried about the lifts... |
That would be my view too. We've holidayed in Montgenevre at Feb HT in 2015, 2018 and 2020 and generally go from first lift to last lift, covering a lot of miles, and have never found the speed of lifts to be a particular issue. My technique is pretty ropey compared to the rest of the family so a few minutes extra rest after a continuous run down is quite nice!
We've never really made much use of the Italian side. In 2015 the kids were in lessons so just went on the last day, and in later years, the attractions of the snowparks and half pipe on the French side detained us too long for a trip to Italy to make much sense, particularly as in 2018, the high level access route was closed.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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@thetappingbison - the boulangerie opposite the Intersport is excellent and friendly. If you have tired kids after lessons, there is a free bus (green line) which goes back and forth along the front of the resort. It is every 30-40 minutes, but if kids are tired and don't want to ski, can help. Apeak will pick up the kids in the morning so less rush. Have a great trip.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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@hd I will have a look tonight and find out the train costs for you.
@thetappingbison we were only there for three days and just had snacks at lunch. For evening meals we went to
Skipasta - This is mainly a takeaway pasta place but they do have some small tables and you can eat there. We actually had our new years eve meal here and it was odd but great. The pasta is INCREADIBLE!
Le Graal - Good pub food. Very large and busy.
L'imprevu - Excellent food, cosy restuarant. Not sure if they were understaffed when we were there but the service was very slow.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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@turboblackbeard, Le Graal was our favourite lunch stop whenever we were there. Booking a table was generally a wise move.
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@hd
Eurostar was £222 return (late booking during festive season)
Paris to Oulx was £134 return
Transfers £57 return
Prices per person
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You know it makes sense.
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FAQ
Our group are staying in a S/C chalet and hotels in L’Obéisque area, planning on renting the kids skis from Intersport Josephine Pavesi, and various levels of lessons booked with Apeak. Looking forward to the trip, there’s seems like there’ll be enough to keep everyone occupied 
