 Poster: A snowHead
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We haven’t seen snow since March 8, 2020 when we returned from a USA road trip with friends. Destinations on that trip were Big Sky, Jackson Hole, Alta/Snowbird and Aspen/Snowmass. To say we were keen to ski this northern hemisphere season was an understatement so my wife and I booked as soon as it was clear we would be allowed to leave and return to Oz.
I’m now sitting on a TGV train bound for Bourg St Maurice after spending a couple of days in Paris. Having never visited Paris we thought flying into CDG would be a nice way to ease into a holiday. We loved the city of course. We checked out the usual suspect tourist spots. My wife is particularly frugal (I get the irony given we travel internationally to ski but that is our only indulgence) so I made up for a twentieth wedding anniversary in lockdown with a Louis Vuitton handbag from the flagship store on the Champs de Élysées. Add to that a nice French dinner in a fancy restaurant and I was as good a guarantee for between the sheets action as you can get. That half an hour probably cost me about $3000 Aussie pesos……. 
Anyway here I am checking out the lovely countryside south of Paris. I must say it’s greener than I expected being winter. What is the green crop that looks to be grass but appears to be cultivated? It’s too small to be any vegetable in my view. This is a lovely way to travel. Next stop is Grenoble where we change trains.
So we will be in Les Arcs until Sunday and then Tignes until the following Saturday. We chose France over other Euro destinations and North America because we intend to come back in December/January next season with the kids. My daughter finishes school this year and is really into her French studies and everything French. We’ll likely spend a month on snow in the one resort and Les Arcs is high on the list of possibilities because of it’s extensive terrain and easy access to the valley for relatively cheap shopping etc.
We’ve only had a couple of days skiing in France in the past. We based ourselves in Aosta for a week a few years ago and had a day trip to Chamonix and another day trip to La Rosiere via La Thuille. We’re keen to check out the big domains of the Tarentaise. I believe the huge French mountains may be complete with Aussie like snow this year. No matter as long as there is something to slide on.
My wife is booked into her very first lessons for the week we’re in Tignes. She’s with Evolution 2. I’m looking at booking in with Snoworks for my very first lessons too. I’d love to do their off piste course but I don’t know if the conditions will be worth it. I may end up doing a piste focused week with one of the other ski schools. Regardless we are both going to find out just how bad our home grown ski techniques are I’m sure.
So the next couple of weeks will be about checking out the famous French ski hills, having nice dinners, enjoying beers on sunny terraces and (hopefully) incredible scenery.
I’ll report in occasionally with some thoughts. Any recommendations for particular runs, lunch spots, restaurants for dinner etc would be appreciated.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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"The green stuff that looks like grass" is likely to be wheat or barley-at this time of year it's just starting to get going.
Don't worry, despite the limited snowfall recently, there is more than enough snow. .
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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My first day today in Les Arcs and much busier than I expected. I have no perspective though.
Good day and nice to be back on skis after two years. Today was the warmest I’ve ever skied in - including spring in Australia. It was 16 degrees celcius at 1600 metres at about 2pm.
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@sbooker, one of my first ski trips was to La Plagne on the other side, about this time of year, and it was so hot. Being thick newbies we forgot that sun cream might be a good idea, and I burned by top lip so badly half my face swelled up.  Lesson learned!
Will you be going over to La Plagne? We had lunch with an incredible view at Les Borseliers over the Champagny side, it was really great in 2016 but others will have better and more up to date tips!
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Looking forward to your reports @sbooker. We were just across the valley at (south facing!) La Rosiere and it was indeed very warm! Did you notice the Saharan dust on the snowpack?
I think it's supposed to get a bit cooler looking ahead.
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@ElzP,
We’re heading over the valley today actually.
I’ll check out your restaurant tip. Thanks.
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@denfinella,
Yes we noticed the ‘salmon’ coloured snow. Quite the novelty. Strangely some areas are more pink than others.
Does anyone have a reliable place for coffee over the La Plagne side?
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We had a great day over the La Plagne side today. A little cooler than yesterday. The haze is still hanging around which spoils the scenery to a degree but I was impressed anyway. A few observations -
The consecutive lifts needed to get to the main ski area once off the Vanoise Express at this time of year is a bit of a chore. Obviously in cooler or snowy weather there would be no reason to chase elevation.
I was amazed at the amount of relatively mid pitch off piste acreage available that wasn’t touched. I’m no gnarly skier and I have no off piste gear but there were huge areas close to the pistes that would not likely slide due to insufficient gradient that had wonderful buttery corn type snow. The pistes themselves were slushy piles. The skiing quality was night and day. I’m wondering if this is an indication that these areas would get little attention after fresh snowfall? If so the area would be a powder pig’s dream.
The area around Plagne Bellecote was crazy busy. Largely due to four main lifts (and many pistes) converging in the one location. I’ve not seen a busier ski zone anywhere. I can only imagine it at New Year or school holidays.
The mountain restaurants in Europe are generally much better than their North American counterparts. Much cheaper too. I have the feeling it is because they are independently owned and run?
The glacier was out of action today as the Bellecote gondola was having a day off. Some technical fault. No matter as we’ll get there in the next couple of days.
The French people have been very friendly. My hopeless attempt at a French greeting or phrase has been met with a smile and then generally answered in English. A few have noted my Australian accent.
It’s not easy to get a good coffee here but the croissants are fantastic. That makes for an enjoyable morning tea.
I can see this ski hill would be fantastic for a longer term stay - something we intend to do next winter. We’ll bring our teen kids. We’re staying in the Charvet area of 1800 and I like there’s a bit going on. My daughter will love the live music on offer. The area above 1600/1800/Peisey/Vallandry would be great in snowy weather.
We’re planning to head down to Bourg tomorrow evening for a Thai dinner. Hopefully the funicular and bus times are correct.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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@sbooker, great to read. If you have a chance pop into St Foy, on a way to Tignes from BSM
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If you think les arcs is good, wait till you get to tignes!
See you there next week!
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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| sbooker wrote: |
| The consecutive lifts needed to get to the main ski area once off the Vanoise Express at this time of year is a bit of a chore. Obviously in cooler or snowy weather there would be no reason to chase elevation. |
Should require only three lifts without removing skis before you are skiing into Belle Plagne/Bellecote which is the heart of the skiing area. A short ski to Plan Bois, then Bijolin and then Salla or Crozats. 4 lifts get you up from 1450 to 2700m (Roche de Mio) or 2200 (top of Blanchets).
| sbooker wrote: |
| I was amazed at the amount of relatively mid pitch off piste acreage available that wasn’t touched. I’m no gnarly skier and I have no off piste gear but there were huge areas close to the pistes that would not likely slide due to insufficient gradient that had wonderful buttery corn type snow. The pistes themselves were slushy piles. The skiing quality was night and day. I’m wondering if this is an indication that these areas would get little attention after fresh snowfall? If so the area would be a powder pig’s dream. |
I'm surprised to hear that to be honest. I can certainly say they would get attention after a snow fall. At HT the off piste under the Inversen lift for example was completely skied out by the end of the week after the dump on Monday. And when I say skied out I mean every metre had been ski bashed.
| sbooker wrote: |
| The area around Plagne Bellecote was crazy busy. Largely due to four main lifts (and many pistes) converging in the one location. I’ve not seen a busier ski zone anywhere. I can only imagine it at New Year or school holidays. |
Yes, massive intersection that although the 3 chairs are all high speed/capacity. If in a group best to be clear which lift you are going to before you ski into the intersection and be careful not to crash into any of the people criss crossing!
| sbooker wrote: |
| The glacier was out of action today as the Bellecote gondola was having a day off. Some technical fault. No matter as we’ll get there in the next couple of days. |
We rarely go up there tbh. Worth doing once if you can but it's really not a big deal.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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| mooney058 wrote: |
| @sbooker, great to read. If you have a chance pop into St Foy, on a way to Tignes from BSM |
You may be able to get a free day's skiing in St Foy with your Tignes liftpass - ask at the Tignes lift office.
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We spent yesterday on the Les Arcs side - primarily over the ridge in the 2000 bowl. We did the ‘must do’ run down into Villaroger for coffee and cake at La Ferme. The coffee and cake were lovely and the old restaurant was charming but the heavy snow below about 1800 metres was challenging. That made for 600 metres vertical surfing slush. The afternoon was spent cruising about the pistes and we finished a little earlier as we had a trip down to Bourg Saint Maurice planned.
BSM is much bigger than I expected and was bustling. We had dinner at a Thai restaurant called Cherry Garden. It was superb food. Definitely worth the trip down to the valley.
Now a nice story thanks to Snowheads. I received a message from a member a few days ago. The had unfortunately come down with Covid - as had a few friends. They had booked a package deal but unfortunately one of their party had to go ahead with the trip by themselves (something about not being covered by insurance and cancelling would mean losing the approx 1000 pounds cost of the holiday).
Anyway we accepted the invite to meet with the young fellow. Despite the age difference (he’s low thirties while myself and my wife are late 40s) we have got along famously. He’s been skiing with us the last few days and we’ve even shared a couple of dinners. I’m confident his holiday has been more enjoyable than it would have been if he was by himself the whole time.
We’re heading out to ski soon and have no real plans for the day. We’ve bought a couple of baguettes and some local artisan ham and cheese so we can make lunch. We’ll find a nice spot in the sun to eat. Hopefully the haze may have lifted somewhat so the views improve.
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You know it makes sense.
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sbooker, I am most impressed with your upbeat posts, considering the conditions: haze, orange snow, warm weather, soft pistes, and quite busy.
Attempting a run down to Villaroger deserves a commendation.
Hope you have a good day today - should be quieter.
Good coffee can be found: just avoid anywhere without a decent Barista machine.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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@Jonpim,
We haven’t seen snow in two years. Pretty hard to not enjoy yourself in the mountains.
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Poster: A snowHead
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@Kenzie,
We looked across the valley at St Foye when we skied to Villaroger. We have lessons booked for the week in Tignes so no chance to get to St Foye this trip.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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From mates who were there on Thursday, the conditions at St F are pretty bad, poling to get down a blue. They had skinned up from the village to the Marquise lift, none of them had realised how much water skins can absorb, weighed a ton evidently.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@chocksaway,
I know you’re a Tignes regular. I’m yet to book my lessons for the week (starting Monday). I’d love to do an off piste week but I’m guessing it won’t be worth it. Snoworks have an ‘all terrain’ course? Or do I save the money and do a piste focused thing with Evo 2? (My wife is booked with them).
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@sbooker, Snoworks are good value and the "all Terrain" courses are fun. They will try to make the best of the conditions, mixing up what there is to be found off-piste with on-piste drills etc. They get a lot of repeat business from their clients. But, for more "Instruction" based skiing, I think Evo2 may be your better option.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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@sbooker, I'm with George on this one, the off piste is far from good at the moment. The clue being, other then a few tourers, I saw no one off piste in 4 hours skiing today. As the snoworks thing is 3 hours per day, and if its the morning next week then everything off piste is going to be refrozen chop. IMHO concentrate with on piste drills with Evo2.
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Thanks all. Had a great day today. The scenery that had been hiding under haze returned. Some fantastic views. The temps were a bit cooler and it certainly made a difference. The north facing slopes didn’t turn to slush until much later in the day.
We really like Les Arcs. I can see this will work really well for our planned extended stay. Before making a definite decision we’ll check out Tignes. We head there tomorrow. I’m sure it will be fantastic but for our planned January dates the apparent lack of tree lined runs concerns me. There is just so much skiing with tree cover here - from 1600 all the way west to Les Coches. The area above Vallandry alone could keep you busy for days.
Does anyone know if there are decent sheltered ‘picnic’ spots on the mountain for cold or snowy days? I understand there is an option to head back to accommodation for lunch but being able to stay on the mountain some days would be nice.
I’m thinking of renting some more piste based skis for our time in Tignes. I own Blizzard Rustler 9s. I naively bought them as my favourite skiing involves fresh snow and whilst they’re all rounders they are quite capable in powder as I’m only light. While they are fine on piste something with a bit more effective edge (less tip and tail rocket) would be better on the groomed runs.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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| Quote: |
Does anyone know if there are decent sheltered ‘picnic’ spots on the mountain for cold or snowy days?
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Yes! Nice, warm picnic rooms at:
- Bottom of Toviere gondola in Tignes le Lac. That one has a microwave and vending machine IIRC.
- In the bowl beyond the top of the Solaise lift in Val D'Isere. That one is very impressive quite posh (comfy sofas etc) and has fantastic views (big windows), as well as a cafe counter.
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@mountainaddict, are those open currently?
We have found that most of the "salles hors sac" in St Gervais are closed this year, presumably a Covid restriction which hasn't been relaxed. (There was an exception, a salle hors sac that hosts a take-away booth remains open allowing the business to operate).
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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@j b, I've been in both this week.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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| sbooker wrote: |
| Does anyone know if there are decent sheltered ‘picnic’ spots on the mountain for cold or snowy days? |
There is a new one on the other side of the piste to the entrance to the Lac Noir bubble at the top end of Les Coches. There are some tables out front and then an inside area with 4 or 5 large tables with benches as you can see in the link.
Never been but it appears there is one in Montalbert
I think that is it for La Plagne.
In Les Arcs I believe the new building at the top of the Vallandry lift houses a picnic room but again I haven't been.
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You know it makes sense.
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@Dave of the Marmottes,
I’ve never heard that track. Nice.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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@Layne,
@chocksaway,
@mountainaddict,
Fantastic info. Thanks.
Oh. We got our ‘pass sanitaire’ from a pharmacy when we got into Paris. Haven’t needed it once yet.
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Poster: A snowHead
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@sbooker,
Hit top of Grand Motte or bottom of Brevieres yet?
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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@Kenzie,
Yes. Went up on the glacier yesterday. Impressive scenery and a nice run down. We’ve not been to the lower villages but will do tomorrow. Yesterday we went to the Aiguille Percee for the obligatory photo.
We spent the day on the Val D’Isere side today and checked out the Olympic downhill run. Not as steep as I expected. The Santons run into the village is fantastic. I don’t think it was groomed overnight. It’s got a nice concave shape. Had a nice lunch with the beautiful people.
The Folie Douce was pumping as we headed back to Val Claret today. It’s not my scene though. I prefer a couple of beers in the local dive bar before dinner.
Heading for a walk over the lake to Le Lac now. We’ll get dinner there somewhere.
Our Evolution 2 instructor Pierre is a lovely chap and has offered some great instruction. He’s lived in Tignes his whole life. His parents were ski instructors. Apparently he represented France in Freestyle skiing. He certainly looks at home on skis.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Santons and fantastic are two words not often encountered in the same sentence on Snowheads! Personally I like that piste too.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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| kditrj2d wrote: |
| Santons and fantastic are two words not often encountered in the same sentence on Snowheads! |
That was my thought too. It is difficult to imagine, but perhaps the current weather conditions suit it.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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@sbooker, I’m a Santons-fan! Santons is a lovely side-to-side surfy gully if caught at the right time but a body-fest when crowded, especially if it gets bumped out which it always does in soft snow conditions.
If you like Santons then you might also like the L gully (Laissinant) down from Solaise. It’s steeper at the top than Santons but wider and rarely congested.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
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Thanks for the tips.
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And our time in the Alps is coming to an end. An early bus tomorrow to Geneva. We plan a walk around Lake Geneva and dinner before an early night as we fly out early Sunday morning. We’ll arrive back in Oz about 25 hours later.
We went for an early morning run down Sache today. There were a lot more very icy patches than the Johan Clary run. It was a relief to get to the bumps. The afternoon was spent over the Val side.
We’re having a couple of pre dinner beers now before our last French dinner. The food has been good but vegetables are not as prolific as I would like. Bread ham and cheese have been our staples. I think potato is considered a veggie here. The wine however is top notch and very reasonably priced compared to home.
Now we’ve been to both Les Arcs and Tignes I think our choice for our extended stay with the kids next January will be Les Arcs for a few reasons. One being we felt we integrated with more French people in Les Arcs?
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@sbooker, you've been unlucky with the weather.
Your experience of a balanced diet is not a major surprise - especially in the Alps.
And again it doesn't surprise me on the Tignes v Les Arcs call. Not that I dislike Tignes per se.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Not a snowflake in two weeks and some days of extremely atypical warm weather but it’s a testament to both hills that we’ve had so much decent quality skiing particularly given the season in general has been a poor one on averages. Amazing really.
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@sbooker, my appreciation of your account of first time skiing in France. A slightly different take from your Australian background - and you were pleasantly complimentary given the poor snow conditions.
It was also interesting getting your appreciation of other aspects of France. I think everywhere restaurant meals tend to be meat/cheese-heavy veg-light (at least compared with our own cooking) but rather more so in the purpose built resorts where so many restaurants tend to the "traditional alpine" of fondu, raclette, tartiflette and their likes which often just have a token few salad leaves as garnish. You can expect to find more variety in a year-round village.
Your comments on wine were interesting given that Australian imports now dominate the mass-market price levels in the UK. I rather agree, while the best Australian varietals are very good most lack the complex flavours of French wines - particularly if you pay similar prices in France to what you might at home. Of course Australian wines are hardly seen in France, last trip we had a meal in a good restaurant where the wine list did include a handful labelled "New World" which in their book included Italy and Spain!
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FAQ
