Looking for (relative) bargain in French Alps

A snowHead

So...we've spent the past three years' ski holidays in Selva. Love it, who wouldn't?

But...it's not cheap, although definitely value for money in a snow-starved year. Next year as part of a general belt-tightening I think we need to cut down the cost of our trip, without sacrificing too much in ambience, accommodations etc. It's a tough ask as we've been spoiled by the Dolomites.

I'm thinking we should head back to France (we live in Paris) next year.

I think I have a pretty good handle on the lay of the land and have skiied some of the usual suspects (Espace Diamant, Serre Che, St. Gervais, Portes de Soleil).

--The one thing we DON'T want is a purpose built ski station. My wife has quit alpine skiing in favor of XC so after 2 hours she's pretty much done for the day and needs something to do/place to read/go for a stroll.

--On the plus side my son has just taken up snowboarding (after mostly mastering skiing) so he doesn't really need lots of gnarly reds/blacks or off piste at this point. So around 100-125 km of pistes is OK for a week)

--Ideally we could do all in for about 3k euros for a family of four: 400 for rental car to drive down, 1300 for accommodations (we need a 2 br, plus a night in hotel on the way down), 500 for food (teenagers eat a LOT), 700 for lift passes (3 alpin, 1 xc) and 350 for various rental bits.

--We are absolutely yoked to the French school holidays.

--Keep in mind that we don't really have access to cheap British package tours and I cannot convince my profligate wife that we can stay in a 1 br with folding couches...I know that would open up a whole world of cheap skiing but it ain't gonna happen...

--The model would be someplace like Valloire (have been there once, dirt cheap lift passes, charming town but not much XC) or some of the areas across the Maurienne Valley. Was thinking about someplace like Puy St. Vincent or another smallish mostly French station (we have dual citizenship and all spreak French).

SO...what else should be on my long list at this point?

Thanks in advance for any guidance. I love doing the research almost as much as the actual trip...

A snowHead

I know you know Les Saisies - but.... it does have absolutely wonderful XC skiing! Not just a few boring flat loipes in the bottom of a valley. I'd say the village offers as much as, say, Valloire. Which aspects of Selva did you find most expensive?

Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?

What about Risoul and La Foret Blanche?
I've only been to Alpe de Suisi once, in the Dolomites, but was surprised by the numbers of cross country folks plus the beauty of the area

You need to Login to know who's really who.

Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.

@drporat, thanks, have heard of Risoul but need to do a deeper dive.

Keep em coming!

You'll need to Register first of course.

I don't think ski holiday queues are any worse in the ED than other French areas. From Paris it's an easy enough drive to the Dolomites. I'd stick to the Dollies if you are stuck with February/March French holidays. Food and drink on the mountain better and cheaper than many places in France.

Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...

@Pasigal, Risoul is a purpose built resort, but then almost all ski resorts are to some extent (OK, I agree that Selva di Cadore isn't but then you need to get the bus to get to the actual skiing). If you want a older village then Vars is connected to the same ski area.

May I also suggest that since you like doing the research then get a copy of Where to Ski and Snowboard https://www.wheretoskiandsnowboard.com/the-book/ older copies deal with the smaller lesser known/tiny resorts better and can be found second hand on the internet.

Today's Guardian newspaper had a tiny section on skiing in the Massive Central.

ps why do you need a night in a hotel on the way down? Many of us from the middle of England just drive it without overnight stops.

After all it is free

la clusaz? https://en.laclusaz.com/nordic-skiing.html

If Maurianne, then Val Cenis, Francois Longchamp? Les Sybelles area as other options?

@pam w, I drove once from Les Arcs to Missurina (north of Cortina) during the summer. It took all day. Even after getting over the Petite st Bernard the Italian motorways were slow moving and the minor roads in the Dolomites terrible. At least in the winter they are not infested with camper vans. A friend tried a similar journey last winter using the Frejus tunnel he had to stop overnight in a hotel it was taking so long.

Perhaps I have been spending too long in the Dolomites, but I'm getting bored with Italian food. But I will still keep going. In my opinion it is the best rock climbing in the world. And the best scenery

*Ski* the Net with snowHeads

@johnE, I used drive all night for vacations until I wound up in a ditch at 4 am. Luckily was just bruised but I won't do it anymore.

I was referring to Selva Val Gardena, don't need bus if you pick accommodation carefully. I'm not opposed to ski buses but some are much better than others.

snowHeads are a friendly bunch.

@Mr.Egg, thank you for the suggestion s. La Clusaz is a great idea.

snow reports

@Pasigal, I wasn't suggesting driving overnight, just during the day. We leave the English Midlands about 6 AM and get to Les Arcs before 10 at night. It is less than 7 hours from Rheims and I suppose not much longer from Paris. The northern ski resorts such as La Clusaz are, perhaps, an hour or two closer.

Le Grand Bornand is another small resort worth looking at.

@johnE, that's a long day on the road. Reason to stay over on Friday night is to get past Beaune before tout le monde...

You know it makes sense.

@Pasigal, you have indeed skied most of the usual inexpensive suspects in the NW French Alps. I would add La Clusaz or Le Grand Bornand (with a shared lift pass, and free bus between the two).

One of our cheapest holidays to date was Les Carroz (also consider Morillon / Samoens) - though this was helped by cheap transfers, which won't help you. Lift pass was reasonable, with advance discount. Though reportedly very busy at half term this year.

Further south, definitely consider the Haute Maurienne - all the resorts are on the same lift pass, which is inexpensive if bought (as far as possible) in advance.

I may be unpopular for saying this, but I would avoid most of the Tarentaise on price grounds. Much further south, most of the ski areas around Gap also have lower prices.

Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:

@Pasigal, I know it's not France, but you've pretty much described Livigno exactly. About 125km of pistes above and below tree line - mostly moderate gradient motorways, with a few nice long blues and a few steeper sections, world class XC centre, plenty of accessible easy off piste, a functioning non purpose built town so lots of good value Italian food/ambiance etc, passes within budget, good lift infrastructure, high quality self catered accommodation, tax free. I've never been to the Dolomites, but I'm told its a fair bit cheaper. Maybe a bit of a pain to get to from Paris, but it's perfect for what you're asking.

A snowHead

@denfinella, I've pretty much ruled out the Tarentaise stations too.

I really like the Gap area but have only been in the summer for cycling.

A snowHead

@denfinella,

Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?

Villard-de-Lans has good XC and would appear to tick your other boxes.

You need to Login to know who's really who.

@DidierCouch, thank you - another place I've heard of that merits a close look.

Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.

We have been three times to Val Cenis environs twice staying in x country areas close to Val Cenis. (Solieres- Sardieres and Bessans) and once in Val Cenis itself When we stayed in the x country areas going into Val Cenis or Termignon for the skiing was no problem but it was late season, I don't know what the parking would be like peak season. When we stayed in Val Cenis it was in the French holidays though I can't remember if it was a Paris week the skiing was significantly less busy than other places I have been to in France in Feb.
A very good value area.

You'll need to Register first of course.

We've just heading back from Les Contamines where there was also a nordic park nr the base station and there were raquette walk a further up. Had a 1 bed with a sliding door + bunks in hall booked through the local tourist office for €690 for the week, don't know if that would be big enough for teens tho? I know the owner was using it after we left which suggests they wouldn't be on Parisien holidays. Lift passes were reasonable.

Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...

@Pasigal, I don't see that France will necessarily be cheaper, other than you avoid hire car and flights.

How about Champoluc? There is extensive XC just 15 mins down the valley in Brusson (and I believe elsewhere) ((there are regular buses)) and great skiing for you and your son - and it's not as busy as France in VCs. And excellent value food and drinks.

After all it is free

La Grave seems to me to be the least 'ski resorty' ski resort I know of in The Alps. Otherwise, you're looking at wee little communes with one or two drags or chairs.

Perhaps consider The Pyrénées, e.g. Le Mourtis is a small place with 2 hours of skiing available and ideal for a learner boarder.

If you want a bigger place, then Luchon is a non-ski resortish town, but has a cable car to a ski station above it (SuperBagneres) - recently in the news for helicoptering snow to its beginner zone. Cauterets is a similar setup - even less ski resorty than Luchon.

@under a new name, Avoiding flights saves at least 500 euros, when you factor in taxi to airport.

Basically anything outside of France except the Aosta Valley area requires a flight. I love skiing but I do have limits. My wife is a decidedly unenthusiastic driver so I generally get stuck with 70 percent of the wheel time.

Car hire is pretty much a fixed cost, around 400 euros when you factor in tolls and gas and second driver. Can't do small, cheap and cheerful with kids who are just about as big as you are, so need a small SUV or station wagon. It's not cheaper than a train, again factoring in 4 tickets...sigh.

One reason to avoid Italy, and this is kind of weaselly, is that the food is so damn good that we eat lunch on the slopes every day. Even with good prices, that's still 60 euros or so a day with drinks etc. for three hungry people. But if we go to France the on mountain food is relatively more expensive and not as good, so I'll just pack a picnic for the salle hors sac. That right there saves 2-300 euros a week or more.

@always29, I do like Les Contamines; haven't been there but checked out the area a few years ago when we we did St. Gervais.

@T Bar, Val Cenis and environs is definitely on my list.
@denfinella, I personally would be happy to go to Samoens; we used to holiday there in the summer with friends. But am skeptical if there's enought or any XC for my wife given the 800 m altitude or so.

*Ski* the Net with snowHeads

@Pasigal, quite decent XC in Serre Chevalier and the thermal spa in Monetier, although a bit larger than the required area. Less ski resort and more village feel in Monetier too.

snowHeads are a friendly bunch.

Pyrenees but I couldn’t suggest where exactly, I don’t know about XC routes.

snow reports

@Hells Bells, Love Monetier, spent a week there about 4 years ago with my son. When I was there the snow down in the valley was a little sparse for XC, however. But I would love to go back. We liked the Monetier sector so much that we didn't get all the way over to Briançon...although the wind played havoc with our returns on several days around the Cuccumelle (??) saddle.

The XC requirement definitely narrows down the list and has for years. I agree with Pam W. that Les Saisies has superior XC b/c of the altitude.

So maybe I can pitch the baths in Monetier as a dealmaker...

@crosbie, I'd kill to go to La Grave, someday, with my hardcore off-pister brother. But not a family destination. Bonneval sur Arc also looks like a great spot. I'd also love to sample the Pyrenees but this year it seemed that a lot of the range got scorched the warm winter.

I'm thinking more along the lines of Beaufort, Samoens, St. Gervais or Valloire when it comes to "towns" vs. "stations." Doesn't have to be too postcardy, but without huge apartment blocks. But looking for something else to sample.

I keep coming back to the Maurienne areas (https://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/snowandski/8313096/Maurienne-Valley-refreshingly-affordable-skiing-in-France.html)

You know it makes sense.

Beaufort? Are you thinking of skiing Areches? I've been there a few times - some years ago. It's an interesting but very small, area with (so I gather) some stupendous off piste. It's the sort of area where when you stop at a café nearly all the skis parked outside are rando skis. It keeps it snow very well - which is another way of saying it can be perishingly cold! I have no idea of crowds, not been there in any holiday periods.

It's actually not that near Beaufort - it's up the valley from Beaufort, which is quite a pleasant little town. Cold in winter, though, deep down in that valley. Nothing much to do there, though the eponymous cheese factory is worth a visit. Areches is really small and basic - quite picturesque.

Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:

Perhaps a little outside the box but have you considered the Jura? Downside is that its lower than most of the Alps so snow can be iffy! Lots of cross country skiing but you may need to drive between resorts for enough alpine skiing for a week. We were lucky enough to have relatives living in the foothills when our kids were small and that where they all learnt to ski. Our relatives were big fans of cross country skiing. Its cheap skiing compared to most of the Alps!

A snowHead

@Pasigal, have you considered the sleeper train down to Briancon? There's a thread around here about someone doing a long weekend that way recently. It sounded a very civilised way to travel, even from the UK. From Paris it must surely be even more convenient.

A snowHead

Just a couple of quick skipass tarif comparisons:

--Val Cenis/Haute Maurienne 214 euros/6 days
--Valloire 204
--Serre Che 264
--Les Contamine 213
--La Clusaz (Aravis) 222
--Villard de Lans 198
--Foret Blanche 209 (Risoul/Vars)
--Puy St. Vincent/Vallouise (includes xc) 170 ish
--Montgenevre 222

Some decent prices there, although the "youth" rates vary by age quite a lot. And probably a good list to work off of.

Should I add Les Sybelles to my list? I don't know anything about it except where it is.

Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?

You need to Login to know who's really who.

@Pasigal, the other thing you can do, Alps-on-a-budget wise, is try non-resorty satellite villages that are just 5 min's drive from the nearest lift of a large ski area, such as Longefoy - offering Hotel L'Adray (good reviews on TripAdvisor). These places are often able to provide discounts off the lift-passes in order to attract folk to reside outside the lift zone.

There are also similar places such as Champery in the PdS, but I guess you've crossed that off your list.

Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.

@crosbie, possibly but that's probably too much faff with an XC skier in the mix.

You'll need to Register first of course.

Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...

We too are big fans of Val Cenis and surrounding ski areas. Extensive and differing pistes, also has good eating out possibilities which may make it a minus point for overall cost Very Happy

like Italy.

It's not been mentioned yet, Pra d Lys has extensive xc facilities that pass right through the village and also travel to Sommand at the furthest point in the ski area. Sunny open plateau with good variety of slopes to interest the downhillers. mix of some low level apartment, plus many dispersed individual chalet to stay. Very good lift pass cost and relatively close to Paris.

After all it is free

So would I - and do some picnic lunches.

*Ski* the Net with snowHeads

So would I - and do some picnic lunches.

Help!!

Looking for (relative) bargain in French Alps

snowHeads Forum Index >>> Resort Reviews and Trip Reports