 Poster: A snowHead
|
Decided to do a live report this time inspired by others I've been enjoying.
Garmisch and surrounds, 6th to the 12th March 2020
Flew in BA from London City on the evening of the 6th and had a night at the Hilton in Munich airport (the usual, nice cocktails in the bar!). Picked up a car from Hertz this morning, I'm paranoid about snowy roads so we have a 4x4 which cost 200 quid for 6 days. It's a very smart Volvo and confusing to drive for people who own 90s cars - too many bells and whistles!
The drive down to Garmisch was dead easy along the motorway, even with an accident closing the road at one point. We headed straight to the Hausberg lift to try the Classic area for the afternoon.
As other recent trip reports note, the snow is decent up top, and slushy nonsense at the bottom; there's a visible snow line at about 1000m I think. A few patches of ice on steeper sections, and by the end of day some big slushy bumps.
However - it's really good fun! Enjoyed most of the runs we did. Best was probably 4 red, down towards Kreuzeckbahn, and 5b black, Kandahar might have been favourite had a not had a frozen moment on a steep bit and had to give myself a good talking to. The top of the Kreuzek 2 man was relatively unpleasant, just a bit scraped and blowy. The slushy bits were actually fine, and having had a lot of ice to contend with on our last trip - the BB - it made quite a nice change. Where the snow has properly fallen, it's all a pleasure. Worth saying that we're both proper middling intermidiots, so it's fair to say that nothing is exceptionally challenging, or maybe that's down to the conditions - wouldn't like to do 5b on ice.
We bought a 2 and a half day pass for the Classic and Zugspitze (115 euro each) so if the visibility is decent tomorrow we'll give Zugspitze a go. We've hired skis from a place next to the Hausbergbahn, quite expensive at 70 quid each. OH got some race tigers which he feels he has to work at. I got given some Volkl Flair which are super easy and chilled out. Could say something here about ski shops always seeming to downgrade my ability whereas they assume my husband is advanced... but hey, the Flairs are fun and it's a holiday right! 
Had a good pulled beef sarnie at Kandahar 2 (bottom of Kreuzekbahn) for lunch. Have now checked into our little hotel Hilleprandt, which seems very cosy, has a sauna and heated ski room - 600ish quid for 5 nights with breakfast. Off to view the bright lights of Garmisch tonight. 
|
|
|
|
|
|
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
|
|
Please keep the reports coming. Like you, I enjoy read first hand personal views of varying resorts
|
|
|
|
|
|
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
|
|
Yes, please keep it coming - we nearly booked for a very similar trip next week with your input, but are going to France instead. But one for a future year!
Last edited by Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see? on Sat 7-03-20 18:54; edited 1 time in total
|
|
|
|
|
|
You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
|
|
Agree. I look forward to the daily updates
|
|
|
|
|
|
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
|
|
Sounds good, I'm jealous, really like Garmisch. Can recommend Zum Wildschütz in the centre, they do a cracking pork knuckle!
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
|
zugspirtze railway is a real experience
lermoos on the arena pass well worth a visit too
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
@Bodeswell, we've just booked it for another night - pork knuckle pre-order! 
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Day 2 - Zugspitze
A glorious blue sky day, perfect for a trip to the glacier! Now, what we should have done is EITHER got up and out bright and early, driven to the Eibsee car park first thing, and been on one of the first cable cars up to the top (should take about half an hour) OR had a slow breakfast, a slow start and got the train round to Grainau for the cog railway up to the glacier (should take about an hour, our hotel is 5 mins from the train). On a gorgeous sunny Sunday, I recommend these approaches...
What we actually did was have a lazy breakfast (very nice) and then drove to Eibsee for the cable car.  Queue to get in the car park, queues to get on the cable car, probably took us about an hour and a half in total to get up top then down to the ski area. Stupid really, but you live and learn. Didn't start skiing til about midday. Oh well!
The skiing itself is lovely up there, squeaky snow which was already forming into bumps on the steeper sections but not in a scary way. Lots of opportunity to pop off the side (snow knee height on me) and have some fun - OH was having one of those 'can't do it' days until we went 'off piste' and stopped worrying.  Probably enjoyed trying inelegantly to make those turns in deep snow more than anything on piste. It's completely beautiful up there, but the pistes have no real variety (unsurprisingly).
I think for both of us though a combination of efforts on the black runs yesterday, plus last night wine, plus the crowded start (got a bit claustrophobic), and the fairly busy slopes made it a very slow afternoon, all a bit of an effort, so we packed in early and headed down at 3.30 on the cog wheel train. We are both infrastructure geeks so this was quite fun! Back in Eibsee paid the 5 euros for parking and joined the traffic jam back to Garmisch.
A further note on lunching up the glacier on a busy day - well what a surprise, bloody busy! When the sky is blue, take a picnic and find a view. There are no huts except the restaurant in the gondola station, a small sit down place opposite, or the place right at the top where the 'top of Germany' viewing point is. We went to the restaurant in the gondola station, food a bit meh, cake nice, absolutely packed at 2pm.
On last night - ended up in Moroni, decent schnitzel, very decent wine. 
Weather looking a bit cloudy and possibly snowy for the next couple of days - back to the Classic area tomorrow for the last day of our current ski pass.
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
|
|
Oops, forgot to say above - runs of the day were the reds off chair lift A - runs 8 and 9, including the points you can go off and between them. Blue 4 off chair E also very nice and smooth. Red 6 off that chair (turns into 7) is probably the most interesting run but leads to the drag of doom - t-bar F. It goes up and down hill, is looong, and generally, bah, drag lifts.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Good thread.
|
|
|
|
|
|
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
|
|
Nice, we enjoyed our trip to Garmisch a lot as well. Bungalow 7 for apres if you head back in to town!
|
|
|
|
|
|
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
|
|
@PrimroseAndBlue, read your report and have my eye on Bungalow 7! At some point we'll get bored of pork. That cable car by the way - I'm a bit scared of heights, mild terror...
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
@Whitegold, Garmisch = probably better than Bankso.
|
|
|
|
|
|
You know it makes sense.
|
|
|
|
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
|
| ElzP wrote: |
| @PrimroseAndBlue, read your report and have my eye on Bungalow 7! At some point we'll get bored of pork. That cable car by the way - I'm a bit scared of heights, mild terror... |
Yeah, I am no fan of heights, but wasn't too bad with the cable car. The T-bar worried me more!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Poster: A snowHead
|
|
|
|
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
|
Today dawned cloudy and dull, couldn't see much of the mountains from the balcony and it was drizzly... breakfast was an even slower affair than usual... wasn't feeling like doing much at all.
Glad we did though! Turned out to be one of the nicest ski days we've had for a while.  We drove over to the Kreuzekbahn parking to head into the Classic area. At about 1000m the rain turned to snow - cloudy, but it was in and out so visibility ok. On the higher runs in was a proper winter wonderland, gently snowing and lovely and quiet, and fresh snow underfoot on the pistes. We lapped the little Hexenhall chair a few times to get used to the snow/cloudy thing, then headed over blue 9 to the Kreuzwankl chair where there are some nice blues, a little park and a timed slalom course. In the pretty, grippy snow this kept us entertained for a bit.
We realised that with the snow up top being so lovely, it was a good time to deal with my previous Kandahar jitters, so we headed to the Kandahar express chair and up top. What a difference a couple of days makes - the steep bit was great, still steep but smooth snow and just nice. Headed back up there immediately, then all the way down by the 5a route - loads of fun. The bottom was slushy as hell, but down to the snow line perfection. Love it when there aren't many people about. 
Quick coffee and up in the Alpspitzebahn. We were a bit worried that visibility would be awful but again, a bit cloudy but doable. So much snow on the pistes, and again, so few people. It's a gem the Alpspitze section, interesting runs, impressive scenery, and red run 16 down to t-bar J is a complete joy, had to brave the t-bar and do it 3 times. Highly recommend though it might not be so fun up top when windy!
Over and back towards Kandahar, there's a little section which needs poling and a rope tow, not great on skis and I really felt for a boarder who clearly liked his pies... bit of fitness required! The rest of the day was mainly repeating the runs of the morning. Had a cracking burger at Drehmoser 9 restaurant at the bottom of the Kreuzwankl chair, and ended the day back on the Kandahar, with a huge feeling of satisfaction and a big love for what is a wonderful, super fun area with a bit of snow and a bit of luck. A big yippee from me!
Good luck for the poor sod getting helicoptered off the bottom of the Kandahar earlier.
The sun came out towards the end of the day, so the view from the balcony is glorious and tonight we have the treat of a massage and private spa session for the evening (fizz and snacks included) at one of the the posh hotels in town. Perfect end to a marvellous day. Lermoos tomorrow we think!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
|
|
Pix?
|
|
|
|
|
|
You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
|
Haven't taken many but will see if there's anything decent and put them up. 
|
|
|
|
|
|
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
|
|
@ElzP, sounds like you're having a great time. +1 for the Apspitze sector, it's great up there and it holds the snow well. Got fond memories of doing laps on that T-bar! Enjoy the rest of your stay, don't forget to update on the pork knuckle, I hope it's still up to scratch
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
|
|
@ElzP, great to hear that you are having fun on my local playground. Enjoy
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
@Bodeswell, so that pork knuckle... well, it's incredible. And incredibly intimidating! The crackling... can confirm it's very much up to scratch! Loved Zum Wildschutz but unfortunately was on my own...
Husband managed to mangle his shoulder today in one of those daft low speed, low visibility falls.  He was gently rolling along to the top of a dip, ski must have hit a snag and he stacked it right on the shoulder. It's broken and he's currently in G-P hospital waiting for an op in the morning to get a plate and some screws put in. We were over in Lermoos, and the medics and lifties there were great, as were the Austrian ambulance guys, the doc in Ehrwald, and as the staff in G-P continue to be. Not looking good for flying home Thursday but we'll see.
Other consequences - the hire car is still in Lermoos (will be heading to the Hertz office to get myself insured on it in the morning to pick it up), my shoes are in the damn car so had to go shopping, and poor OH missed out on the knuckle. Credit to the owner of our hotel who loaned me her shoes for a bit and was so helpful ringing the Lermoos folk to tell them about the car etc.
We did manage a morning of lovely skiing in Lermoos though! Spent the time lapping the various reds, blues and short blacks off the Grubig 2 gondola, the snow was deep and delightful. None of the runs are very difficult, but it was tipping snow and visibility above the trees was not great (where hubs fell). Luckily most of Lermoos is in trees so actually really good for a heavy snow day, and especially on a quiet mid week trip - on some runs it was like no one had been on them, the snow filled any tracks so quickly. Parking was free at the lift, and the day pass around 45 euros each. Pistes were hard as nails on the lower runs though I should think they had a good covering of snow in the afternoon (dammit!!) Had the accident not happened, it would have been a great day in another fun resort. Would like to return on a snow day and explore some more, more than enough to keep us entertained for a day or even two.
So, unlikely to be any more skiing for either of us, unless I can be bothered to ski alone after getting the car tomorrow. Doubt it though, I'm a bit chicken at the best of times. Roll on next season then, with mended shoulders and all being well... sad not to be able to report on Ehrwalder Alm which was the plan for tomorrow, but next time!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
@ElzP, oh no! Really sorry to hear that, and best wishes to your husband. Roll on next season indeed.
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
|
@ElzP, That's nuts! Very sorry to hear, best wishes to him for a speedy recovery.
I guess the restaurant pales into insignificance after all that...no worries, don't let it mess with your mind. Could happen anywhere and the slopes will still be there next year!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Ouch.
Get well soon.
|
|
|
|
|
|
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
|
@Bodeswell, it didn't pale into insignificance for my husband, he was absolutely livid to be missing the restaurant!
Thanks all! Op today and I'm sure they'll do a brilliant job, apparently they see a lot of similar injuries on skiers. 
A few thoughts on Garmisch etc to wind up. We'll definitely come back, if there's any snow about it's a great short break, though I'd probably save Classic for week days and head round to the small resorts in Austria over a weekend. That said, even a snowy Saturday wasn't too bad for crowds. What we skied is great for intermediates, Zugspitze in the sun would probably be ok for beginners, as would the blues at Classic. The Lermoos runs are intermediate heaven.
It's not cheap cheap, but could be done very cheaply as there's the free bus and train with the guest card (our hotel provided it for free) that takes you over to Austria as well. Loads of hotels and apartments so easy to get rooms for odd days rather than full week, and a great variety of restaurants. Plus, it's very pretty from what we've seen and plenty to do for non-skiers. Saw plenty of people out on snow shoes and hiking lower down. All in all, would recommend.
|
|
|
|
|
|
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
|
|
@ElzP, good report. Sorry about the injury, hope all goes well.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Quote: |
...
a great variety of restaurants. Plus, it's very pretty from what we've seen and plenty to do for non-skiers. Saw plenty of people out on snow shoes and hiking lower down. All in all, would recommend.
|
+1
Lovely place with great atmosphere and very friendly people.
|
|
|
|
|
|
You know it makes sense.
|
|
@ElzP, all best wishes to your husband, and hope the op went ok yesterday. Do let us know how he is and how you get on returning home. I really enjoyed reading your report, and was interested as OH spent a few days there many years ago.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
|
He's out, shoulder screwed together, and we're flying home tonight. Our insurance - Snowcard - have been excellent so far, sorting all the 'repatriation' etc and no quibbles over transfers/going back to a different airport for convenience. Hopefully they will be as good with all the medical expenses.
The hospital in Garmisch is so efficient and friendly, it'll be interesting to see how that compares with the NHS for aftercare!
It's now absolutely boiling here, sitting in t-shirts in the hotel garden, mad.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
FAQ
