 Poster: A snowHead
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I got a new pair of boots with a sole length which is shorter than before (old: 335 mm, new: 330 mm). My skis have Marker bindings which (I thought) were mounted for 335 mm, but it must be more like 340 mm because I've adjusted the screw on the back binding all the way in to the edge of its range for the 330 mm boots, but it's still not totally flush (which it should be when the forward pressure is correct). When I reach the edge of the adjustment range, the screw head is starting to recess so it's clearly close. If I fold strip of paper a few times and jam it in front of the toe I can get the forward pressure adjustment screw flush, so it's probably off by 0.5 mm or less.
So, is the "almost correct" forward pressure setting fine? I have to imagine the tolerance of the setting must allow for some snow build-up, etc. but I wanted to solicit some other opinions. Also, any issue with having the adjustment at the edge of its range?
Thanks
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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@mrking, Welcome to snowheads, the rear screw will be right at the end of the track, so not sure how much pressure that will put on the threads or how engaged it actually is, I am sure @spyderjon will be along in a moment.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@mrking, which model of Marker binding?
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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I don't know the exact model, it says Marker 10 TLT on it.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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| Zorrac wrote: |
| @mrking, Welcome to snowheads, the rear screw will be right at the end of the track, so not sure how much pressure that will put on the threads or how engaged it actually is, I am sure @spyderjon will be along in a moment. |
mrking, ^ this is pretty likely so although you're only 0.5mm out (which isn't a big deal) but all the load will be on the last worm drive groove in the base track which isn't good. The M10 is for small/lightweight skiers but if you've got a 330mm boot you're probably a fairly big guy(?). The track engagement should be checked properly and if it's dodgy then a remount will be need, either just the toe or just the heel, depending on the fore/aft positioning of the boot on the ski.
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Thanks for the info! I thought a remount may be in order. I am tall but skinny so hopefully the binding is good enough.
So, for posterity, is it generally a bad idea to use a binding at the extremes of the adjustment track?
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| mrking wrote: |
Thanks for the info! I thought a remount may be in order. I am tall but skinny so hopefully the binding is good enough.
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IMO. If you weigh more than 64/65 kg, you might consider a more robust binding....especially if you are a half decent skier.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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I'd say half decent is about the right assessment. Hopefully I can justify an upgrade once I nail that other half down.
Thanks everyone for the input.
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| mrking wrote: |
| .......is it generally a bad idea to use a binding at the extremes of the adjustment track? |
No not at all, providing that:
- If the length adjustment is a worm drive then all of the flutes (there's usually 3 or 4) should be engage in the track
- If the length adjustment is by teeth engaging in a track (usually 4) then all the teeth should be engaged
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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@spyderjon, ...exactly that
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