 Poster: A snowHead
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As mentioned at some point in some thread long ago, I went for a trip to Åre in Sweden last season and had promised to do a bit of a write-up of it. Here it is!
The Skiers
A couple of 30 somethings. I’m a relative newcomer to skiing, first trip in 2012 and this was roughly my sixth trip. Previous trips have been multiples to Morzine, Val Thorens (EoSB) and a couple of long weekends in Ski Amade.
My partner has been skiing since she was a teenager, mostly on once a year holidays to Morzine - but with some Ski Amade now too!
We are more or less strictly on-piste skiers.
Inception and Planning
We wanted to go somewhere that wasn’t the Alps to get a bit of variety which also had some other non-skiing activities to do. I was also concerned about the amount of skiing on offer - it’s hard to get a scale from piste maps but a lot of the scandinavian resorts seemed to have fairly low amounts of vertical. The potential to see the northern lights was also on the list. Åre seemed to fit the bill - largest resort in northern Europe, possibly far enough north for the lights, plenty of things to do which aren’t skiing.
Travel
We’ve never done a TO holiday and were considering making this our first, but I couldn’t find anywhere which had their Sweden prices online. So we booked it ourselves!
Bookings tend to go Sunday to Sunday when booked through SkiStar. SkiStar appear to be the operator of the lifts and act as agents for a lot of the accomnodation around town.
Norwegian fly from Gatwick to Trondheim on Friday at 8pm, and return late on Sunday. So we flew out on Friday after work, stayed in central Trondheim on Friday and Saturday night, then got the train direct from Trondheim to Are early on Sunday morning, arriving in time to ski that afternoon! There was a late flight back the following Sunday, and a bus back about 3pm, so we managed to squeeze an extra morning skiing!
We relied on trains and buses for transport, but hired a car for one day as the non-skiing attractions were not easily accesible via public transport. I would recommend hiring a car if you are DIY. The car came with studded winter tyres which did the job nicely on the winter roads, although they were largely clear.
Pistes
There are a few distinct areas in Are, and we didn’t get to all of them, but roughly:
the high zone - above the tree line, rocky terrain which would have been great for offpiste had there been enough snow. They weren’t able to open several of the pistes up here due to the lack of snow and snowmaking. The pistes that were open had rocks just beneath the surface.
VM8/VM6 ‘Race Arena’ - probably the most alpine feeling area, with several high speed detachable chairs and nice wide blues and reds. The only blacks in Are are located here, but they didn’t have enough snow in one case, and was being used for the women’s WC downhill in the other.
Rodkullen - a relatively gentle area with lots of T-bars, but some great snow quality and very quiet in amongst the trees. We enjoyed the scenery the most here and it was a bit sheltered from the wind
Sadeln - some new highspeed detachable lifts in this area for this season - caught a lot of fresh snow from winds off one side of the mountain, go here early as it feels quite wild and remote before people make it onto the piste
Bjornen - really really flat, not worth mentioning.
We didn’t make it to the non-linked areas of Duved and Tegefjall, although saw them on the bus on the way out and they looked worth a visit.
Snow quality
In terms of snow quality as it wasn’t a great season when we went (late feb/early march 2014) a number of pistes simply not open. I read after the fact that it may have been their worst season for 35 years. Open runs without snow making were skiable, but it was rather patchy and touch and go in some places. Towards the end of the week we got about 20cm, which went a long way to making some of the runs more enjoyable.
On the upside, the weather was clear, sunny, and hovered around 0 degrees… it was like spring!
Overall, the breadth of the ski area meant our enjoyment wasn’t impacted by the less-than-average snowfall, although anyone looking for the pillowy snow drifts and freezing 'proper winter' temperatures might have been disappointed.
Accommodation
We booked an apartment through SkiStar. It was brilliant, built in Sauna, modern, well equipped kitchen, only a 2 minute walk from the pistes.
Food
My SO insisted that we mention how great the cafe food in Åre is. While a little pricey, we didn’t find it much more expensive than European Alpine resorts and the selection was pretty excellent, with reindeer meatballs, herring and sour cream and other local delicacies being the norm. My SO has dietary requirements (she has to eat gluten-free for health reasons) and found it a dream to eat out in Åre, there seemed to be gluten-free cake and menus almost everywhere. If you’re planning a ski trip where one of your party is coeliac/celiac, definitely consider Sweden (and don’t be afraid to ask restaurant staff: even where it wasn’t marked on menus, there were often gluten-free buns for burgers, etc.) Eating out in the evenings was expensive though, local restaurants seemed to charge about 250SEK for even a pizza. We’d recommend eating out on the slopes for lunch, but self-catering in the evening.
The large supermarket near the train station is brilliant, epic selection and lots of traditional scandi fare if you like that sort of thing. Worth noting that in Sweden you’ll need to go to a separate off-licence (Systemsbolaget) to pick up booze, and these have limited opening hours.
Other activities
Åre is crammed with wintry activities so if you’re willing to pay, you can snowmobile, dog sled, zip line or even ice drive. We tried snowmobiling through Camp Åre, which runs tours of varying lengths that give you the basics of snowmobiling, including driving around the vast frozen Lake Åre.
We also tried out some dog sledding but the snow quality wasn’t great, plus we had our doubts about the safety of this particular operation - don’t want to slate them publicly, but give me a PM if you’re thinking of booking dog sledding in Åre and I’ll share our experience.
If you fancy a day out there’s a fun moose farm just near Åre, towards Duved.
Apres-ski
A bit of a mixed review on price and convenience here. There are some bars in the village itself, and on descent into the village, that were ideally placed for a drink after a day on the slopes. Big caveat about pricings, which anyone familiar with Scandinavian costs will already be aware of! Go for a drink or two for the atmosphere, or do as the Swedes do and drink at home before hitting the bars really late (most don’t pick up until 11pm, which isn’t great for snowheads who want to rise early). My SO found that hitting the cloudberry liqueur in our apartment after a spell in the sauna did the trick.
Costs
Cost breakdown is roughly as follows:
Apartment: 9500SEK
Skipass: 4180SEK (for 2)
Skirental: 2620SEK (for 2)
Transfers: about 1500SEK (for 2)
Return flights: £168 (for 2)
GBP total at today's exchange rate: about £1700 (for 2)
Some pics:
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Great review, thanks 
I've always fancied skiing in Are, definately an option, and your review is really helpful!
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Nice... I visited Are several years ago and loved it.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Sounds nice. Thanks for posting!
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Hi driz,
Saw your posting a whikle back about dog sledding in Sweden
We've done this before in Finland and it was epic but it was very well managed
What were your concerns in Sweden?
Thanks
Anthony
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@Serbsukoski, +1. We have done it in Finland and Åre too, so do wonder what the problems were.
Great review though @driz, thanks.
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So, here we are (me and my 19 year daughter) in Åre (Duved), arrived by train this morning from Malmö/Copenhagen - dumped out bags in the hotel and went up the hill. It snowed all day and 10-15 cm new snow on a base of ice. Last week it had rained the hole week and the snow froze in the night a lady in the lift told me.
Luckly tempartures are now dropping and we hope for a better week as those who leave now, mostly by train, had.
The hotel (Renen) is nice and has sauna and lokkers for ski. There is a restaurant in the hotel and we will try it out tonight.
Duved is a bit like Tween Picks. There is not much here, so do not come here for som kind of afterski event - better stay in Åre itself. Not many people on the pists may be becourse it is change over day.
For those who like treeruns there is quite some possibilities here, but the woods are dense- - not so open.
Just stayed in in the local area Duved/Tegefjell today and booked 2 privat lessons for tomorrow.
When I have seen the pricelist of beer/wine ect. I will come back to give you a chok.
Had 2 hot chocolates and 2 cookies for 106 Skr.
Shared one gulash soupe for 105 Skr.(it came with some bread). Hot juce was at 20 Skr. a glas and was nice. "restaurant" nr. 5 on the skimap is has only gulash and waffel, the "restaurant" is a bit away form the piste but is a traditional coisy hut - nice place, but food is limited.
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@Hyst, thanks for the updates and good to hear conditions improving.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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You definitely want to get the skibus over to the main area.
The nicest place my daughter and I found to eat was the restaurant at the top of the Hummeliften (reached by taking the VM6 and then skiing directly down through what is normally a mogul field (you can go round to avoid this, but it's good skiing to take it direct). Great views from there and the best pizzas we have ever eaten (wildgame and cranberry was her choice!).
The red runs reached from FjällgårdsXpress are also very nice. Obviously if the lifts to the top of Åreskutan are running, this is even better - the only place in Sweden which really feels like high mountain skiing.
Gästrappen and the other runs around the race arena are best skied at the of the day when the crowds have gone home. Often the WC downhill course is open for the public in the last hour of the day when race training has finsihed, and since the racers only take one line you can often find super snow here late in the day. Enjoy!
M
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Anyone know if it's easy to get a taxi in Are By?
Arriving late next sun- well probably about 2am on Mon.
Was concerned about getting from bus stop to key pick up and then finding apartment especially at that time of night. Emailed Skistar for directions and they suggested getting a taxi from where we get off bus - station I think.
If I know we can easily grab a taxi that would save working out directions etc when we are tired and possibly had a few drinks in long gap between planes at Schipol! 😄
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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Taxi Åre +46 (0) 0647-10022
I would give them a call in advance-he/she might sleep!
Åredalens Taxi +46 (0) 0647-20444
The larger company it seems from the local paper.
You bus transfer could be the second company. I would ask the transfer company if they can take you all the way.
Don't get to many drinks and knock on the wrong door on arrival! You next door neighbours might not forgive you! 
Last edited by snowHeads are a friendly bunch. on Mon 21-03-16 19:08; edited 1 time in total
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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@MCL, Hi MCL, Are by is the main centre isn't it? Its only small so you should be able to walk from the ski bus - do you have the name of the hotel?
Not sure about the taxis, you could ask skistar for the name of the local taxi firm and call them in advance, and ask them - however they might not speak English very well so bring the address on a piece of paper for the taxi criver (unless your Swedish is good) - I remember arriving a few days late for a ski holiday in Salen (Everton had just beaten United in the FA cup Semi-final), and I flew up to Mora and had to get a taxi from the airport to the bus station, and there wasn't any taxis waiting so the girl at the airport kindly called a taxi company for me (after working out what I was trying to say - my Swedish is poor) and when the taxi driver arrived she couldn't speak English either (I think they get less chance to practice in the North), but I had enough Swedish to ask for Mora Centrum and Bus Station, and then the woman at the bus station didn't speak English - and I was still hungover from celebrating for two days in London.
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@Sack the Juggler, you must have found the only three people in Sweden that dont speak English. I've lived here for 8 years now, travel all over Sweden and Scandinavia with work, like a typical Brit only speak English, and its extremely rare to meet someone that doesn't speak any English.
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You know it makes sense.
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@Themasterpiece, we have an apartment in Stockholm and my Swedish is terrible, mostly because the Swedes all speak such good English. I do know a few even in Stockholm who do not speak English very well, but this is mainly because they do not have a chance to speak it. I have been to Mora before as we have friends there and I've also raced in the Vasaloppet, so I know that quite a few even there speak English well, and others who struggle, but as I've said, that is mainly because they do not have the chance to speak it.
That trip taught me not to rely on the fact that your taxi driver (or any other Swede come to that) will speak English
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Thanks folks, maybe more hassle than it's worth trying to get taxi and walking might be simpler!
We get dropped at station, have to pick up key and map from Skistar shop at Kabinbanan which is apparently uphill and then back to find apartment (near the square)
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Poster: A snowHead
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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| MCL wrote: |
Thanks folks, maybe more hassle than it's worth trying to get taxi and walking might be simpler!
We get dropped at station, have to pick up key and map from Skistar shop at Kabinbanan which is apparently uphill and then back to find apartment (near the square) |
Booking a taxi is only a phone call! Its not a long walk, but probably 20-30 min round journey walk. Taxi will be a rip off, but if its late and cold I would do it.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Second day is almost over and I promised you about my fist evening meal here in Hotel Renen yesterday evening.
Food was ok- though not exceptional. Main course about 250 Skr. Smashed sweet potatoes was the best in the meal. I had what they call "let" beer - as I had god experience of "let" beer from Kebnikaise area up noth i Sweden. However this was a disappointment only 2.25% witch did not give much taste! Came at 28 Skr - I guess you can't expect more for that price - but I rather drink water then.
Today 2 hour ski lessons which my daughter and I enjoyed very much. Quite competent instructor.
For lunch we took the bus to Åre and went over to the Rødkullen area. Lunch was in restaurant nr 6 "Ullådalsstugan".
The dish of the day came at 155 Skr including coffe, and was worth all the money and some more - it was a most pleasant experience. My daughter had a burger 165 Skr and was looking envious at my food. I had mercy on her and let her have a taste - it did not make the situation any better! If the dish of the day is that good other days it is highly recommended. After my terrible experience with let øl we just water to our lunch. It came as a hole liter and was free of charge.
In the evening we just had a pizza at 110 Skr angI finally had my first real beer. 0,4 l IPA at 68 Skr. The local restaurant down the steet "Pigo" was nice and the pizzas were very good.
Snow today was much better than yesterday as the new snow was grinded into the pists.
The weather did not become colder and the snow further down soon became quite heavy. We could really do with a drop of temperature and some clearer weather. 
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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@hyperkub, Thanks, now I found it on the map - nr. 14 "Hummelstugan". We will have a look. The top gondola has been closed today due to overicing.
We will stay local as to much time is lost for half a day going to Åre, as we take some lessons in the morning.
Going again when we have the hole day again - Wednesday. 
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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I put the effort into learning Swedish after moving to Sweden and speak it fluently. It's kind of handy to be able to converse in the native language of your chosen country of residence. Time for you folks to roll your sleves up and learn the lingo!
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You'll need to Register first of course.
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| hyperkub wrote: |
| I put the effort into learning Swedish after moving to Sweden and speak it fluently. It's kind of handy to be able to converse in the native language of your chosen country of residence. Time for you folks to roll your sleves up and learn the lingo! |
Did you do full time SFI?
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| Themasterpiece wrote: |
| hyperkub wrote: |
| I put the effort into learning Swedish after moving to Sweden and speak it fluently. It's kind of handy to be able to converse in the native language of your chosen country of residence. Time for you folks to roll your sleves up and learn the lingo! |
Did you do full time SFI? |
No. I went to a couple of classes but quit almost immediately.
M
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| hyperkub wrote: |
| Themasterpiece wrote: |
| hyperkub wrote: |
| I put the effort into learning Swedish after moving to Sweden and speak it fluently. It's kind of handy to be able to converse in the native language of your chosen country of residence. Time for you folks to roll your sleves up and learn the lingo! |
Did you do full time SFI? |
No. I went to a couple of classes but quit almost immediately.
M |
You must be quite driven. Most of the time when people say I've learned Swedish, you found out they've done SFI full time for 18 months. I've looked at finding lessons that would fit my work, but I travel a lot so evening lessons wont work and I want to see my family on weekends!
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Maybe we should set up a snowheads Swedish conversation group?! SFI doesn't fit with my work either, and progress is slow when work is mainly done in English.
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You could also stay on this thread and go to Åre for an intensive course - you family can ski while you attend the language course - and you do not need to carry you own ski.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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We have just come home from Åre, we had a great week. It did rain lightly a couple of days at the bottom, but was mostly clear, some sun and some snow towards the end of the week. We were staying at a Lienbacken apartment near the VM8 lift. It was very good.
The pistes held up well all week, though there was quite a bit of ice around earlier in the week.
We quite like the little restaurant at the bottom in Duved, the goulash soppe is tasty and filling, and I think around 95 SEK, so not bad value either.
The gondola wasn't open all week for us, high winds, but we didn't mind, there was still plenty of fresh tracks to find through the trees in Rodkullen and Tegefjall, and some great piste snow. We averaged about 25-30 skiing miles a day (according to snowtracks).
One point about the Flygtaxi coach transfers from Åre station. We were dropped off near the Banhof café, but the pickup point is beside the road, at the other end of the station. No one told us this, we were just lucky to see a sign when we were walking back from System Bologet (your local inconvenience store), so it's worth checking out where it is if you are transferring with Flygtaxi.
Hope you all have a great week, we did. 
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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I could manage pretty easily at work with English, but free time activities need Swedish. Hard to be a trainer in my skiing club if I can't communicate with the kids....
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Oh, I almost forgot, at the big cafeteria at the bottom in Tegefjall, you can pay one price for the buffet lunch (hot and cold food), (I think 155 SEK, but I am not sure about that) and then go back as many times as you like. Great value if you are hungry.
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You know it makes sense.
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| hyperkub wrote: |
| I could manage pretty easily at work with English, but free time activities need Swedish. Hard to be a trainer in my skiing club if I can't communicate with the kids.... |
I help train the kids football club. They seem to understand with demonstrations and pointing
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Hyst, is the same service available in Hemsedal? It's a bit late to change plans for next week.
Hyperkub, yep, it definitely makes the sailing club hard work. That's one of the biggest motivations for me to learn.
Getting (vaguely) back on topic, how would Åre work for a long weekend? The overnight train from Göteborg looks like a very tempting option
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Poster: A snowHead
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I guess it should work OK. Åre is only 5 hours drive for me, so I have only ever travelled there by car. Plus I always seem to have a ton of stuff....
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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| thecramps wrote: |
We have just come home from Åre, we had a great week. It did rain lightly a couple of days at the bottom, but was mostly clear, some sun and some snow towards the end of the week. We were staying at a Lienbacken apartment near the VM8 lift. It was very good.
The pistes held up well all week, though there was quite a bit of ice around earlier in the week.
We quite like the little restaurant at the bottom in Duved, the goulash soppe is tasty and filling, and I think around 95 SEK, so not bad value either.
The gondola wasn't open all week for us, high winds, but we didn't mind, there was still plenty of fresh tracks to find through the trees in Rodkullen and Tegefjall, and some great piste snow. We averaged about 25-30 skiing miles a day (according to snowtracks).
One point about the Flygtaxi coach transfers from Åre station. We were dropped off near the Banhof café, but the pickup point is beside the road, at the other end of the station. No one told us this, we were just lucky to see a sign when we were walking back from System Bologet (your local inconvenience store), so it's worth checking out where it is if you are transferring with Flygtaxi.
Hope you all have a great week, we did. |
sound like you had a great time, and some great tips on where to eat and the skibus
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@thecramps, thanks for the tip about the bus we'll go and find it in advance
Now just need it to cool down again over the next 10 days
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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@thecramps, Good to hear back about your trip! We got back from our own weekend before last. From a personal point of view we had some bad luck with me falling ill and my wife injuring herself so much less skiing was had than hoped. But as for the resort itself we have few complaints.
Area:
We stayed in Bjornen. It's a beginner area which was great for my wife with skiing to the back door of the apartment (as there is to most apartments in the area). However, while the ski bus whisks you to steeper slopes on front of mountain in 15 mins it stops for a couple of hours over lunch and so logistics were awkward as we were using a "parent pass" that meant we switched over every half day to look after the little one and skiing back did take up to 45 mins. That stopped me getting to experience the top portion of the hill. In Bjornen, Lilla Tyrolen is a great piste-side cafe. Bjornen also is an excellent place to learn to x-country and I had a good lesson on it from the Skid Centre. All in all more than enough slopes for 4 days I thought and probably a week once you include Duved. Private lessons for my wife (group only Mon-Fri) were reasonably priced and very professional.
Travel:
We flew Ostersund on SAS and used the Flytaxi service - shared on way out but private way back as wife's injury meant we needed door-to-door. They also couldn't guarantee a baby seat on shared service which I thought was a bit poor. SAS are great for ski carriage taking skis and boots (both very well padded with clothes) in place of normal check-in bag for no charge.
Accommodation:
We used a private apartment through Ago Mittiare who were very nice and responsive but required keys to picked up and dropped off at their reception in the main town which was a pain when staying in Bjornen. Also gave us a partially broken cot. However, they allowed a Tuesday check-out which most of the ski-star places did not (restricted to Sun and Thurs) and were flexible on check-in time. All the apartments seem to have a private sauna no matter how cheap and are clean and well stocked with utensils and in Bjornen have fantastic south-facing views of the lake.
Skistar:
Seemed a well-run operation. Website was clear and online "chat" function was useful in answering questions I had beforehand (telephone number much less so). They run plenty of seemingly well-priced excursions including a ski touring trip and backside tour which unfortunately I had to cancel due to being ill (a real pain as the weather was perfect and of course then descended to rain by the time I recovered!).
All-in-all I did like the place but think in future I'd choose Hemsedal or Trysil instead simply because piste layout would make it easier for mixed-ability groups to meet up for lunches and stay generally close to each other.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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@Deibitto, +1 re the mixed groups meeting up for lunch etc., but my bunch are all roughly the same standard so it wasn't a problem for us. We enjoyed Bjornen, especially the kids' run with all the obstacles/things to look at. The Cafe you mentioned was good, too.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
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Travelling up to Åre on saturday, for a week. Looking forward to it.
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@MCL, I should add our transfer was to Ostersund, though not sure if that makes any difference to you.
@Deibitto, Sorry to hear about your wife's injury, I hope she will recover quickly, and also your bad luck with illness.
Bjornen is a really good beginner and family area, but is quite easy to ski to from Åre By, and the new (think it's a couple of years old anyway, wasn't there when we were last there) chair with heated seats (lift 39) is really quite nice, but I know what you mean about buses and taking over kid patrol. For that reason I would say stay in Rodkullen instead, it is a fantastic family area, with some great tree messing, and is easy to ski to/from to Åre By. It is also possible to ski down to the VM8 lift, which opens at 8am, a nice hour before the rest to get on nice quiet fresh snow. Hiring a car would also solve your problems, but not sure on the costs of that.
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@Themasterpiece, four years ago we were there a similar time to your trip, and towards the end of the week, many of the ski shops had some excellent bargains as they were shifting stock to clear the way for sailing, boating, hiking and biking stuff for the summer.
Even last week mrsthecramps got 40% off a nice pair of peak performance ski trousers in the peak performance shop in the square.
Might be a good time to treat yourself to new kit.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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@thecramps, staying in Rodkullen if you are a beginner sounds a great idea. Nice part of the resort for beginners. And easy to get to VM8 (quite easy to get back from VM8 too - although the night skiing along the VM8-Rodkullen road was a bit weird...).
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