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Kyrgyzstan 2020 - 8/4 update - last pics...

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Kyrgyzstan had been on my list of 'places I must go back to' after a first trip in 2012 (https://snowheads.com/ski-forum/viewtopic.php?t=88132), but I never quite managed to fit it into my winter calendar.

Finally last year I decided to make space for it no matter what and plans were hatched for a return in early March.

A 6 hour minibus ride from Bishkek took us to Karakol, where we loaded up our ex-USSR UAZ vehicle for the 30 minute drive up to the roadhead village:


First views back into 'The Zone':


After a comfortable night's homestay with Nurbek and his family kit bags were loaded onto horses and set off for the 6kn skin up to the yurts:


King Nurbek - chef & host extraordinaire - a good example of community-based tourism definitely benefitting the locals:




Home sweet home (or 'yurt sweet yurt') for the next week:


The views back on to the plains and over to the Kungur Ala-Too mountains and the border with Kazakhstan start to open up:


More to follow when kids 'home school' allows...


Last edited by Poster: A snowHead on Wed 8-04-20 9:23; edited 5 times in total
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
more please.......
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
@offpisteskiing, Geography today then Smile
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@AndAnotherThing.., exactly!
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Tease!
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The shutdown is going to last for months. Good idea to spin this out so we have something to look forward to every day rather than a Netflix style binge.
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
After a safety session and short tour on the first afternoon, and after a fine feast and a reasonable night's sleep (as much as can be expected for a first night at 2500m) we set out the next day for a link-up of some 'middle-ground' runs. The upside-dwon snowpack in Kyrg takes a bit of getting used to (and a set of wide skis) - typical set-up is 40/50cms of powder sitting on 60/70cms of completely un-supportive sugar - an extreme continental climate - cold and dry - if it wasn't for the nearby lake Issyk Kul (2nd largest alpine lake in the world) it is doubtful there would be much skiing here - the 'lake effect' means that the mountains here get more snow than they should for the overall climate...

Co-guide Jessica setting the pace up the shoulder to the appropriately named 'Eggs & Bacon' line :


Andy G dropping in - the biggest avalanche hazard here outside of storm cycles is of 'sluff-alanches' - super-slow moving loose dry avalanches pushed off by the rider, so mostly we rode lines one at a time, top to bottom - not so good for photos sadly...


A quick hour of skinning took us to a lunch stop and the top of our next line:



Jessica opening the line - sluff-alanche from a skier-cut on the roll below us visible...:






Erick demonstrating what happens when you stop in 'Kyrpow', and why you need fat skis or a big powder board here...:


Another short skin took us back around for a mini-lap, then a longer skin set us up for our last run of the day in the afternoon sun:



Dave & Dave with Alpay Tur behind them - we skied several of the shoulder lines above their heads in the following days:



Dave I on the last run:


Back to the yurts for après on the 'deck' (read 'wobbly wooden boards...'):





more to follow...


Last edited by Then you can post your own questions or snow reports... on Mon 23-03-20 19:27; edited 1 time in total
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After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Yes please. Great report.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
Great report, always nice to see your trips posted here.
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With the weather set fair for the time being, the next day we headed up 'into the alpine' to the summit of Alpay Tur at a shade over 3400m.





Snack break just below the summit - the peak just sneaking over the background skyline is an amazing pointier version of the Matterhorn sitting somewhere round 4500m, and with an unpronounceable name... pictures can't do it justice sadly.


Dropping in onto one of the East side shoulder lines - perfect Kyrpow...:









Happy team and a shredded line!


Back up onto the shoulder of Alpay Tur and this time we dropped West for an afternoon run:


Then back to the yurts for some r&r- once the wood stoves are fired up these are undoubtedly the best kit drying rooms I have ever been in!!


Supper time... Laghman noodles w/ meat and veg spiced up with some home made chilli paste...


Last edited by Ski the Net with snowHeads on Tue 24-03-20 7:16; edited 1 time in total
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Good post.
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
The unpronounceable mountain is tashtambek tor bashi.

Perhaps not while you were there but slab avalanches are definitely a concern too. As you say due to the climate base is usually facets, so any slab forming on top is prone to slide.

For anyone interested in a future trip there is now quite a few options in Kyrgyzstan now. Great lodge in jyrgalan which also offers horse skiing (ride up on horse and ski down). Few backcountry lodges around jyrgalan and the valleys between jyrgalan and karakol. Ski resort in karakol. Cat ski lodge in sussamyr. For the adventurous you can ski on the peak Lenin glacier during summer, it's even possible to ski from the summit 7100m.
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So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
boarder2020 wrote:
The unpronounceable mountain is tashtambek tor bashi.

That's the bunny - a properly spectacular mountain!

boarder2020 wrote:
Perhaps not while you were there but slab avalanches are definitely a concern too. As you say due to the climate base is usually facets, so any slab forming on top is prone to slide.

Yep - exactly the reason why in 2012 we were unable to really get up into the alpine and onto the bigger lines. We lucked out this year in that there had been a really long spell of good weather leading up to when we went in so the slab problem was almost non-existent.
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
Day 3 - slightly overcast all day so not great for photos but plenty enough visibility to get up into 'the alpine' again... on the 2012 trip snow stability was not great and we weren't able to get up high so it was nice to be able to go to the summit of Kyzyl Moynok and ski one of the bigger lines off the East side.

Alpay Tur up above:



Looking up to Kyzyl Moynok - in 2012 we only got as far as the lower shoulder in the shade...:



Looking up to Kara Zo between Kyzyl Moynok and Alpay Tur - day 2's morning line heading off picture up and right to the summit of Alpay Tur:



Summit ridge of Kyzyl Moynok:





Going down:





Short clip of yours truly from about halfway down:


http://youtube.com/v/F4pP5RDh4O0

Woop woop:



Back up to the upper shoulder of Kyzyl Moynok again for a great afternoon run down a West facing shoulder line:



More to follow again from a 'triple crown' day on the Thursday...

2021 dates are already in the diary - best wax those fat skis now!
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Now we're talking
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Always nice to see great recent skiing / boarding pics but awesome at times such as these.
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offpisteskiing wrote:
Looking up to Kyzyl Moynok - in 2012 we only got as far as the lower shoulder in the shade...:



Pretty sure I suffered one of the side effects of Dr Nick's flu drugs right there in 2012

Happy memories but I wish I could forget details like that Laughing
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Wow looks quite an adventure!
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Quote:

Wow looks quite an adventure!


Yes and no. It's off the beaten path for sure, the culture is certainly different to "the west", and you won't see too many other skiers there (although the numbers keep rising each year). It's not some crazy zabardast style expedition though, generally the infrastructure for ski touring is pretty developed now, there a quite a few catered yurts in the area of this trip report. There is even a heli ski op.

Of course that's not to say some crazy expedition style stuff is not possible, there are plenty of vast isolated areas of the Pamirs and tian Shan. However, it's not necessary or what the vast majority are doing
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Arno wrote:


Pretty sure I suffered one of the side effects of Dr Nick's flu drugs right there in 2012

Happy memories but I wish I could forget details like that Laughing


I did spare a thought for you when we crossed that ridge a couple of times..!
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boarder2020 wrote:

For anyone interested in a future trip there is now quite a few options in Kyrgyzstan now.


For anyone interested in a future trip I am running another week there in Feb 2021...
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Perhaps you should post up some details of the proposed trip here.

Do you take a guide with you? (This seems a sensible approach taken by many European group trips out there as it is difficult to find a qualified local guide).
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boarder2020 wrote:
Perhaps you should post up some details of the proposed trip here.


I generally try and avoid being overtly commercial on here... admin has his own trips to sell and I try to respect that. Those who may be interested should be able to track me down without too much hassle (post signature for example...)...
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Day 4 was forecast to be the last good day before cloudy/snowy weather moved in so we set ourselves a big goal of skiing the 'Jalpak Tash Triple Crown' taking in the 3 main peaks behind the yurt camp.

A first 800m skin took us up on to the summit of Kyzyl Tash...:









...and back down the East face - next stop Alpay Tur - just heading out of the top of the picture...:





Increasingly techy skinning got us right onto the summit:






And dropping the East face straight off the top - a couple of shots of me for once Happy :




Lower down the face:




East face of Alpay Tur:


3rd summit - Kyzyl Moynok:


Last main run to cap off the Triple Crown - off the summit of Kyzyl Moynok down the East face - a monster-leg-burner pitch in flat light but great snow all the way to the traverse back around to the last skin to get home...


And finally a last skin backup to a feature known (rather amusingly) as the 'Man boobs' gave us a last run back down to the yurts for a well-earned beer and dinner!
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Result. Looked like a big and super fun day!!!
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
@BobinCH, certainly was!
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
offpisteskiing wrote:
boarder2020 wrote:
Perhaps you should post up some details of the proposed trip here.


I generally try and avoid being overtly commercial on here... admin has his own trips to sell and I try to respect that. Those who may be interested should be able to track me down without too much hassle (post signature for example...)...

So it explain why it doesn’t read quite like a typical “trip report”. you’re running the trip.

Not saying there’s anything wrong. Just that I was expecting a “TR” from a client’s perspective.
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 So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
@abc, it's hardly a secret on these forums!
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You know it makes sense.
offpisteskiing wrote:
@abc, it's hardly a secret on these forums!

It’s not a secret. Just I didn’t realize it. So I was a bit confused reading it.
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offpisteskiing wrote:
@abc, it's hardly a secret on these forums!


Dragging that uphill pole there dude... Toofy Grin Toofy Grin

(great TR)
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@inspark, #busted... Happy
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Powder in the mist:


Back up for round 2:


Great snow:


Back at the yurts with a surprise visitor...:


Andy showing signs of cabin (or yurt) fever Happy :


Our surprise guest for the final night bonfire - Nurbek #2 & his squeezebox:


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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
A few last pics:

20cms of fresh on the last morning:


Last morning powder laps in the trees:


Locals:


Transport back to civilization:


A welcome soak after 7 days of yurt life:


My Kyrgyz isn't great but I believe this translates as "Please don't throw your children in the bin..."..


Karakol animal market:




Herring under a fur coat anyone?


Karakol:






Dates locked in for late Feb 2021 for a return trip - can't wait!!


Last edited by Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see? on Thu 23-04-20 6:39; edited 1 time in total
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Supoerb
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@offpisteskiing, snowHead snowHead
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Excellent TR. Looks like a great trip.
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Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
offpisteskiing wrote:



My Kyrgyz isn't great but I believe this translates as "Please don't throw your children in the bin..."..



Herring under a fur coat anyone?



Fixed the broken herring link Smile

And it is Russian and says “Teach your children good manners” Madeye-Smiley
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Orange200 wrote:
offpisteskiing wrote:



My Kyrgyz isn't great but I believe this translates as "Please don't throw your children in the bin..."..



Herring under a fur coat anyone?



Fixed the broken herring link Smile

And it is Russian and says “Teach your children good manners” Madeye-Smiley


Thanks Orange200 - hadn't spotted the broken pic link. The translation is most dissapointing though Happy
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As Bill Bryson has exploited in his travel books, what people imagine is usually far more interesting than the truth!
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@Orange200, exactly... sometimes not being able to read much of the local lingo is a bonus Happy
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