 Poster: A snowHead
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... actually, yes!
For reasons I won't bore you with, I wanted a super-cheap long ski weekend, just three day's skiing. Therefore nowhere too big with expensive lift passes and ideally a short transfer, a compact village, accommodation near lifts and reasonable prices. After admittedly being a bit snobby about Bulgaria in the past I started to wonder if it actually might be worth a try. So the main choices were Bansko, Borovets and Pamporovo. The latter I discounted for the long transfer and the fact it's billed as a beginner's resort with mostly easy runs. Bansko I looked at, but it really needs more lift infrastructure, that gondola queue put me right off - even if it is a bigger resort with arguably better skiing. So I went for Borovets! Transfer time to resort was just over an hour by private taxi, after a 3-hour flight to Sofia from Heathrow. All went very smoothly with no delays.
I could have spent more cash and stayed at the Rila, but I wanted to find something cheaper. I went for the Samokov, a Soviet-era monolithic ugly block of a hotel opposite the gondola station. It really is an 80s marvel. It's enormous and has never been renovated as far as I can tell, so is like stepping back in time. To make things easy I'll do a quick review of each thing.
The hotel: The Samokov is old, dark and huge with a swimming pool, bowling alley, spa, shooting range (!), games area, chemist, ski hire store in the basement, nightclub and several shops - plus two restaurants and a large bar. It has a certain inexplicable charm though, as it's like nowhere I've stayed since the 80s! Room was a bit tired but beds were comfy, shower was hot and there was plenty of cupboard space and a fridge. The bath drained poorly but oh well. We were B&B and the breakfasts were OK. There was everything hot and cold but it was nothing special. The juices were weak squash. If I needed a cheap base I'd stay there again but another time I'd probably look for something a bit better. The ski hire store there will only let you use their lockers if you've hired their skis - and you're not allowed to keep them in the rooms. We didn't use any of the facilities but apparently the spa is good with an hour full body massage costing £20.
The resort: It's actually more charming than it looks in photos - lots of little huts, restaurants and bars along a main street between the Samokov and Rila hotels. It's lively and the locals were very friendly (I took the trouble to learn a few words in Bulgarian and it worked absolute wonders). It's set in the middle of a beautiful pine forest. There was snow on the trees, and as we approached the resort our friend (who's never been skiing) exclaimed "Ohhhhh, we're in NARNIA!!!"  . Yes there are a couple of pole-dancing bars but you just avoid them. It's a very male-biased resort (partly for that reason), and we saw a number of stag parties. During the day there were plenty of families though.
The skiing: OK, so this was the clincher. I will say we were very lucky with the conditions. It snowed a lot on the second day, and then again the following night, so on the final day my friend and I were skiing boot deep dry powder on wide, empty red slopes and saying it was marvellous!! Prior to that there had been a few rocks, grassy patches and pine cones to look out for - even with fresh snow.
There are two main skiing areas, one very much busier than the other. It's a good place for beginners, and the novice area in front of the Rila hotel was very busy with queues for the beginner drags, and the two chairlifts. The easier slopes above were also busier than I like, so we cut off down the empty reds. One of the blacks was shut, but my friend said the other one on that side was a great long run, and lovely.
There was never a queue for the gondola, and the Yastrabets/Markidujk (sp) areas were much much quieter - mostly deserted in fact. There were gentle runs right at the top, via an easy drag - but vis was cloudy and poor at times. The Yastrabets reds were lovely - there's just bit of a poling section right at the bottom to get to the lift.
Overall I was pleasantly surprised by how good the skiing was, and I'd go back for that. Interestingly, the overall standard of skiing is far lower than in the Alps. In the likes of Val I'm a competant intermediate but nothing special - I see loads of far better skiers. In Borovets my friend and I were noticeably better than most other people - not a brag, it's just no-one was that good! Quite a few people we spoke to said they'd never skied before and had just hired equipment and tried to do it with no lessons! So on that basis I felt safer in the quieter area. I did see several people out of control in the other part of the resort.
The food Didn't have a bad meal out. In fact it was all very tasty. Lots of meat dishes, ribs, steak, chicken skewers etc and all super cheap. I think we paid about £15 each per night for meals with drinks, including prosecco. We went to the White House at the top of the gondola on the last day, and I had a delicious bean casserole/soup with a big sausage in it - yummy. Also cheap.
The apres. Borovets doesn't really seem to do apres as such; there's no dancing on the tables in ski boots at 5pm like in Austria. People just have a beer or coffee and a chat. However, the evenings is what it's all about. There are so many bars, some with karaoke which was great fun with the whole place joining in. We liked the Black Tiger, the Buzz Bar, Bobby's and BJs. We ventured into the club in the ERila hotel one night but left after an hour as it was crap. Some bunch of amateur rappers onstage. There are people who try to encourage you into their bars, but they are friendly and not at all aggressive or persistent.
So I have to admit I've revised my view on Borovets. I went with an open mind and found beautiful scenery, friendly staff, good food, cheap booze - and brilliant skiing! I don't know if we'd be as lucky with the conditions a second time, but there's already talk of returning next year.
It was perfect for three days skiing, a week might become a bit samey - especially if you like a challenge. I didn't do any off-piste.
Total cost per person for flights, 4 nights B&B in the hotel, transfers, 3-day lift pass and ski hire was a shade over £300. Bargain.
I need to get the photos off my phone, I'll post a few up later.
Last edited by Poster: A snowHead on Wed 24-01-18 20:16; edited 3 times in total
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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£300, crumbs!
I might have to do something similar just for the hell of it!
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@HoneyBunny, thanks for this. I have wondered about here as we have done bansko twice (New Year and Feb half term) and won’t go again while we are stuck to only being able to go in school holidays.
What dates were you there?
Wondering if anybody knows if lift queues are different during Feb half term?
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Thanks for the review, I've always been a bit sceptical about the bulgarian resorts, but if the skiing is good, the food is good, and for apres, I'm good with a coffee thanks, now about those pole dancing bars...
seriously though, who did you travel / book with and was it more or less expensive than Bansko?
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Great review! 
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| NickyJ wrote: |
@HoneyBunny, thanks for this. I have wondered about here as we have done bansko twice (New Year and Feb half term) and won’t go again while we are stuck to only being able to go in school holidays.
What dates were you there?
Wondering if anybody knows if lift queues are different during Feb half term? |
We arrived last Friday and flew home yesterday. Decent flight times too, BA 890 and 891 into the newer terminal at Sofia.
@Sack the Juggler, I booked hotel and flights through Travel Rebublic, and the transfers and ski hire/pass through Traventuria. I don't know if it was cheaper than Bansko as I was put off by the gondola queue so didn't research. Everyone in Borovets we spoke to who'd been to Bansko said it's a real pain. Also in Borovets it's easy to come down and meet people for lunch or kids after lessons etc, but they all said in Bansko you stay up the mountain all day.
Last edited by You'll need to Register first of course. on Wed 24-01-18 14:42; edited 1 time in total
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Nice review @HoneyBunny, I’ve never been but it hasn’t got the best reputation so nice to see a honest constructive review and see a bit of myth busting.
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@Handy Turnip, well it's no St Moritz but I was pleasantly suprised with what we got for £300. Oh and also the toilets in the bars and restaurants were absolutely fine AND despite cute little horses and huskies and cats around I didn't see a single poo on the streets.
Or prostitutes, or guns, or drugs.
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@HoneyBunny, I did a few weekends many years ago to Borovets and quite liked the place. In fact I thought it much better than Bansko. We stayed in very small hotels certainly not the Riva, which looked monstorous. It was scenic and the skiing was OK. It seems that they have got rid of the horrendous telecabine queue in the morning. It was over half an hour every morning when I was there, but unlike Austrian queues very good natured. Nobody minded if you left the queue for a coffee and came back to your place (provided you bought them one as well).
Though I went up Vitoshen a couple times I never actually skied there. Has it closed as a ski resort?
Sadly I never enjoyed Bulgarian food - it was always a very greasy fry up - like having a mixed grill every meal. And then I discovered the Turkish resaurants, which served excellent meals at a good price. Worth looking out for.
All that puts me off is the time it takes to get there for a weekend. I recall spending hours waiting to change planes in Zurich airport. I think the minimum journey time is over 6 hours just to get to Sofia. Instead I am doing my weekend break to Zakopane
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I’ve done 2 weeks there in the past in times of ‘ I’ve got to go skiing but just can’t afford it’ both last min deal with a tour operator.
As it was a can’t really justify it I booked a week off work and booked a week before when I could see the snow was good. Both times I ended up at the hotel rila half board with flights transfers and pass for £300. Probably not possible now that it’s been refurbished.
On both trips I found the food good. The people friendly and can highly recommend it.
It’s been 6/7 years so things on the mountain might be better. The food was good the toilets not so much😄
And beer for £1 a pint 😀
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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@Disaster, it's worth a go!
@Hurtle, thank you xx
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You know it makes sense.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Thanks @Bones! Yes, I think realistic expectations is the key. And learning some Bulgarian.
Ha, I need to recover from this one!!
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Poster: A snowHead
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That review has definitely put Borovets on the radar, thanks.
Anyone got opinions on ski-schools there, as these are an important factor. Any good? English speaking?
How easy is it to learn Bulgarian?
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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[quote="HoneyBunny"]...
Quite a few people we spoke to said they'd never skied before and had just hired equipment and tried to do it with no lessons! So on that basis I felt safer in the quieter area. I did see several people out of control in the other part of the resort.
That fits with the experience of my nephew, Adam. He went to visit his Bulgarian uni mate who took him skiing. Only thing is Adam had never skied in his life and he was left alone at the top of a red run with no idea! He took his skis off and walked back down!! 
I have since introduced him to the proper way to learn and he now loves it.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@HoneyBunny, really good to read this.
So like you I can be a bit of a snob, BUT like you I wanted to make my own mind up.
Not having a spare week for skiing this year I decided to take a 4 night trip out there at the end of September and just go for a hike.
All I can say is WOW!!
I went to Bansko, simply because I wanted to check out the lift systems and I'd say you made a good choice with Borovets as seeing the one bubble in Bansko vs the enormity of all of the appartments is terrifying. Also there is a fair bit of unfinished building work - being a civil engineer I'm used to this sight and found it fascinating, others may see it as a dump.
The 4 things that make it for me though are:
1) Price! (£32 to hire a car for 5 days! A new VW golf with winter tyres!)
2) FOOD!! Damn fine food
3) Service was amazing
4) the mountains. Simply stunning!
I hiked from bansko up to the top of the Piryn until the snow and ice made it too dodgy (only stopped about 50m vert short) but the views were stunning. Odly it reminded me very much of the Rockies.
Would I ski in bansko, possibly, would I go there hiking again, hell yes!
I'm popping out to borovets for a hike in the spring, will be interesting to compare the 2 resorts.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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| ster wrote: |
That review has definitely put Borovets on the radar, thanks.
Anyone got opinions on ski-schools there, as these are an important factor. Any good? English speaking?
How easy is it to learn Bulgarian? |
Apparently they're very good, and yes they speak English. There are good reviews online.
I just learned six words/phrases (good morning, good day, good evening, thank you, please and "the bill, please") and they were pretty easy to remember. The locals thought it was great!
From memory and spelt phonetically - dobro utro, dobar den, dobro vecher, blagodaria, molia and smetkata molia. It's quite Russian-ish.
@PaulC1984, glad to know I picked the right one, can't be doing with lift queues. I thought the scenery was stunning too, and so different.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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@HoneyBunny, Definitely a great review. I did Pamporovo back in the early 90s and it was cheap and good value at the time. Skiing is very limited there though and although enjoyed the trip wouldn’t go back. It just fitted in with budget and the holiday I wanted back then. Borovets sounds better and glad you enjoyed it and thanks for taking the time for a comprehensive report.
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| HoneyBunny wrote: |
@Handy Turnip, I didn't see a single poo on the streets.
Or prostitutes, or guns, or drugs. |
We went twice, and we didn't see drugs or poo either... the other two........... 
But it wasn't intimidating, hence why we felt perfectly safe going back the second time (and we had 3x under 10s in our party).
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Great, review, will include on my list for extended weekend trips. I have just been in Chamonix for 4 days in a economic fashion -> flights, hostel, transfer, ski hire and 3.5 days lift passes for just under £400. Not too bad as well specially for where it is.
How much was the flights ?
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2nd gondola has been approved for Bansko... now just need to see if it gets built.
It still needs more slopes to accommodate the peak times of tourists & to match the number of beds available.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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@HoneyBunny, your picture of the Yastrebetz gondola bought back many memories of hours (well it was probably only 30 minutes in reality) sitting on those railings in the queue. Thanks for the post.
I still remember one day in Borovets when it snowed and the pistes were covered in about 20cm of powder. My Bulagarian friends wouldn't go out until the pistes had been bashed. I had a wonderful time. Actually my friends got really annoyed that the lift pass office wanted to charge me 3 times the amount Bulgarian nationals paid for a lift pass so they bought the passes for me. I got caught on one of the Yastrebetz drag lifts. I am sure what followed was illegal.
The area is actually very nice in summer as well, but there really are bears in the woods.
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We skied in Borovets in 2009 just after the credit crunch hit us pretty hard. We stayed in the Lion hotel and paid something in the region of £950 for three people half board inc flights and transfers.
All in all your review pretty much reflects our experience, reasonable skiing, nice people and good food.
If you're looking for a cheap week you can't really fault it!
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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My 3 year old came out in chicken pox Monday so there’s an end to our family holiday this Sunday. If it clears up early next week we could try a last minute there the week after. What would you think for one so young? I wouldn’t take him to Bansko! That lift queue is scary!
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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nice review. I went as a beginner in 2012 or 2013. stayed at the lion which is a bit further out. had a great time. theres not masses of KM and we were lucky with the snow but I had a great week.
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| johnE wrote: |
[
Though I went up Vitoshen a couple times I never actually skied there. Has it closed as a ski resort?
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Do you mean Vitosha mountain in Sofia? If so it's definitely open as a ski resort. You get the cable car up from near Ikea on the ring road, which you can catch a bus to but probably easier to get a taxi. However it's worth checking here: https://skivitosha.com/ to see if the lifts are open. I've never seen more than three lifts open, so there's usually only one lift-served run available. I'd say it's only worth going if you happen to be there with gear (there's no hire place at the bottom of the cable car) and fancy a bit of an explore.
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You know it makes sense.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Poster: A snowHead
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We went to Borovets in the 90s and really enjoyed it. The only unsettling bit was the hotel’s basement nightclub. Each night the dance floor was cleared when a certain tune was played and “ladies of the night” took over watched over by (stereotype I know but true) men in leather trench coats. The ladies then paired up with blokes and left and everything went back to normal. Bizarre. We found though by the end of the week it became routine and we hardly noticed.
After paying nearly £5000 this year for the 4 of us to go to Austria at half term we are re-evaluating things and may give Borovets another go. Thanks for the review.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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It’s the Magaluf of skiing ... been once & never go back
Old and dangerous lift systems bought second hand from France
Ski hire is on poor 10 year old skis etc
That’s before the dog poo, drugs, smoky bars, hotel food, prostitution, etc
Maybe I missed the positives ... it’s cheap though
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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I hitting Bansko next weekend with some friends for cheeky weekend so will see what it is like. Hopefully as out of school holidays and after their FIS event the gondola queues won’t be a feature.
Not quite sure why we are doing Bansko instead of Borovets, which has a shorter transfer, maybe the organiser was seduced by the extra kms of pistes Bankso offers. Will be interesting to contract with last years weekend in Slovenia.
That YouTube vid always makes me laugh when he’s sliding around on the frozen “flush”
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@t4tomo, if you follow Bansko blog on Facebook, he regularly posts photos of the lift queue and updates for conditions of runs etc.
Best of luck. When were there for Feb half term we found it was quicker to use the bus queue to get up rather than the gondola.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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@Phyllis Stein, see, that's why I posted my review. The gondola is old, granted, but the chairlifts were fine, with a couple seemingly new-ish. Hired skis were fine. They were in good condition with grippy edges and not at all old and knackered. I was given FAR worse in Courchevel 1850 - and complained to the tour op. There was no dog poo or prostitutes, food was tasty and cheap and people mostly smoked outside the bars.
It's funny, that vid is always posted when Borovets is mentioned but I suspect that toilet no longer exists! I've no idea where it was.
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| t4tomo wrote: |
I hitting Bansko next weekend with some friends for cheeky weekend so will see what it is like. Hopefully as out of school holidays and after their FIS event the gondola queues won’t be a feature.
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rumour is the FIS stuff will stay in situ for Olympic training... then National Ski & Snowboard Cross Championships at the end of Feb!
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@HoneyBunny, enjoyed your review. I went there for a week 2 years ago on my own. I hired skis there and they were new that season and very reasonably priced. The hotel food was not great but the restaurants were OK. I was lucky with snow conditions and had a good holiday
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Skied Borovets in 1991. Had two different guns pointed at me, one after a waiter gave me too much currency in the stairwell when he heard footsteps coming and panicked. The other was at the airport.
All good fun, a bit of a change from the usual tobogganing and a quiz night
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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@HoneyBunny, brilliant review. I reckon Borovets tourist office should make your next trip there a freebie for that 
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@PeakyB, to be fair, it was so cheap compared to (my favourite resort in the world) Val d'Isere, it felt like a freebie! No discounts needed. My review was honest. I think we'll go back for a cheeky weekend next year. I mean, £300!
You kind of get what you pay for, but what you get can be pretty good.
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FAQ
