Ischgl. Best bits. Talk to me!

A snowHead

Hi.

This time next week (eeeee!) I'll be packing for Ischgl, and jetting off on Sunday. It's somewhere I've wanted to go for absolutely YEARS.

There are a group of 11 of us, mostly pretty experienced intermediates. A couple of the guys are very good and there are two new group members with us who are slower.

We'll ski most things except the very toughest blacks (and two of the guys would probably do them too). As an example, I think the whole group could ski Le Face in Val d'Isere without too much trouble, but most of us would probably bottle out of something like the Swiss Wall or Le Tunnel.

We love lots of skiing and we LOVE our apres, and had loads of fun in Saalbach in the past two years, especially in the Hinterhag Alm.

Where are the "must-experience" apres bars in Ischgl? Nikki's Stadl? The Trofana Alm? The Kuhstall? Fire & Ice? Are they all easy to find?

Also, the first day is always a bit a faff as we try to work out where we are and where we're going. Where would you recommend heading for?

What are the best runs that we shouldn't miss?

Thanks in advance!

(I think @biddpyat returns from Ischgl today, maybe she could give a little trip report?)

A snowHead

I'll post some info later when I have a bit more time. Apres venues may depend on where you are staying as they are situated both ends of town.

Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?

Ooh thanks. We're staying in the Hotel Abendrot with Ski Total. It's kind of in the middle - I actually think it's not far from the Trofana Alm. To be honest we want to try everywhere, and don't mind walking back.

You need to Login to know who's really who.

You are very in the middle....just a few moments walk from Silvrettabahn. You can't miss the main bars as they are between your hotel and the Silvrettabahn station, therefore you will not need any directions...although you may need help finding your way back to your hotel after the apres!
You can ride up in the morning and ski down at the end of the day (mainly reds and a few blacks if you fancy them)...but if the slopes are too much late in the day you can secure your skis up the mountain.
On your first day, just head up the Silvrettabahn, there is usually a queue, lift opens to the public at 8.30. The queue gets worse if you are a little later.
Ischgl is fairly easy to navigate, but dont ski down to the middle stations early and expect there to be space on any gondola to get back up the mountain.
Keep an eye on the weather. Ski lower if visibility is an issue but beware if lifts are closing due to high winds. Also be very cautious about crossing to Switzerland if the winds are strong, lifts close and you could become stuck with a costly taxi fare.
Meals up the hill are good where ever you go, places get busy, but it is quieter now than the last 4 weeks.
Apres gets going promptly in Ischgl and keeps going and going. Usual stops are Fire and Ice by Silvrettabahn and the other bars there.....and at the other end of town Freeride and other bars along Fimbabahnweg also are lively.
Next Tuesday is Skishow night, which is a lot of fun. You will find it at the bottom of Red 1a by the Pardatschgratbahn. Here you will see some nutty skiing etc in the dark with loud music etc. You will find start times outside the ski school offices in Ischgl and on the mountain.
Hopefully this will help you out.

Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.

@HoneyBunny, I have skied there a lot but always on family holidays staying outside Ischgl and so cannot really comment on the apres ski.

Different areas have different attractions according to the weather and the snow conditions. However if you want to orientate yourself for the week you could do a bit of a circuit buy heading over into the Hollkar skiing the usually very straightforward blacks in there and then heading from the Palinkopf down to Samnaun on the duty free run and coming back into the Samnaun area then working your way up to the Greitspitze and back into the Ischgl area.

It's a bit difficult to say what is don't miss because it does depend on snow conditions , in fresh snow the areas above Paznauner Thaya are usually very good. The red ski routes above Gampenalp can either be great fun or stony according to which way the wind has been blowing.
People who clian the area lacks difficult runs have not usually done the ski routes 9, 26 or 3a which are as steep as black runs elsewhere inthe alps and usually have excellent snow14a is the steepest formal black and can get quite slick.
The quietest ways down at the end of the day are from Pardatschgrat rather than Idalp which gets very busy. The bottom runs to resort are notoriously crowded and get quite slick at the end of the day and ti is no disgrace to opt for the lift down however 1a is a very enjoyable run earlier in the day (before midafternoon)when the surface has not been skied off and it is uncrowded.

You'll need to Register first of course.

@HoneyBunny, For Apres I'd have the following on my list...

For apres before you leave the mountain and an opportunity to dance with a large dog... Paznauner Taja.

http://www.paznauner-taja.at/apresski-in-ischgl/paznauner-taja.html

Back in town as you come down towards Silvrettabahn

- Die Champagnerhütte http://www.romantica.at/apres-ski/champagnerhuette.html (mainly so you can check out all the framed champagne bottles, but it is pricey and knows it, helps if you have a Porsche in the hotel car park).
- Trofana Alm (busy apres, but very nice for dinner too, fondue, ribs etc)
- Kuhstall (also busy!! http://www.kuhstall.at/ )

Back in town as you come down towards Pardatschgratbahn

- Nikkis Stadl ( http://www.nikis-stadl.com/ surreal, addictive and far from PC, head into the dance floor and dance)
- Kitzloch ( http://www.kitzloch.at/en/#apres_ski old school party fun which at some point will mean you are in a conga dancing through the kitchens...)
- Schatzi (techno, flaming trays and dancing girls - some might find it a iut tawdry, but if you don't take it seriously it can be lots of fun).

For a calmer apres experience

- Plangger ( http://www.plangger.net/ischgl.html get a quality bottle of wine and some local snacks)

Good pistes all over the resort, but some suggestions at the red up to tough black end:

- The runs back down to resort first thing in the morning. Empty and pisted are a joy (they'll be mad later on so do at some point hit them early).
- The reds round Alp Trida 65, "Route 66" and 76.
- The reds off Palinkopf 38/40.
- The blacks around Palinkopf 20/21. Steep (for very steep 14a off Greitspitze which is very steep - needs good conditions).
- Black 4. Can be superb. Starts quite steep. Long.
- Red 7. Do it early and you can have a magic valley all to yourself.

Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...

I agree with pretty much everything that @nozawaonsen, has written on the skiing front but watch out for the advice

After all it is free

Agree with all of the above but don't do "calmer apres experience" whatever you do. That's so not Ischgl.

Trofana Alm is the best Apres Ski bar in the world in my opinion and is a must do and the others mentioned are all excellent.

Would add that 33, 34 and 35 above Paznauner Thaya are great runs and often pretty quiet. The Pizval Gronda lift has also opened up some nice off-piste that the better skiers in your group will enjoy.

It's a fantastic resort and I'm sure you'll have a great time judging by the profile of your group.

Fantastic advice, thank you everyone. Can't wait to get there!

*Ski* the Net with snowHeads

It's a very "easy" resort to work out in terms of skiing and drinking. If you get a powder day, would recommend a visit to Kappl just down the road by bus. I've skied a lot of the big resorts in Europe over the last 28 years and think Ischgl is No. 1 all round (Les Grands Montets @ Argentiere the best mountain).

snowHeads are a friendly bunch.

Here's my tuppence worth. First though I know how much you like Val D'Isere and Salbaach Hinterglemm so hope you don't spend all of the time comparing it to those. Been to Val D'Isere and it's very different to Ischgl. Not been to Saalbach Hinterglem so can't really comment other than that they are in the same country and have good skiing and Apres reputations. In terms of location you're close to both the Silvrettabahn and Fimbabahn gondolas. While both can get busy the Silvrettabahn has a reputation of being busier. It's gondolas take about twenty five people a time as opposed to the eight that the Fimbabahn gondolas hold. However, there lots of hotels close to it and it's near the main car park so is used a lot by day trippers. Just down from the Fimbabahn is the Pardaschgratbahn, newly rebuilt for this season. The first two drop you at Idalpe which is the focal point of the area as it's from here you can access everywhere. The Pardaschgratbahn drop you higher up and it's a short blue run down to Idalpe.

Idalpe is on a Plateau with a couple of restaurants and the ski school. If you want to warm up or wait for friends the Velilbahn is on the left and it's a short blue to get back. Alternatively. you could go right. Ski past a couple of lifts and you'll see a road that takes you on the way back to Ischgl. At the end of a road there's a blue (2b I think) It takes you to the Nachweidbahn which will drop you back at the top of the nursery slope. If you look to your left from Idalpe you'll see a ridge. To access it turn right until you get to the two aforementioned lifts. Take either and they'll drop you on a road. Turn right at the end of the road and you are in Switzerland. From here you ski down to Alp Trida. Once you get to Alp Trida there are a couple of restaurants. Before the first of them and the first lift you come to is one that takes you up to Alp Bella. You must try the restaurant there, it's famous for it's home reared chicken.

Talking of Switzerland you must try a trip over to Samnaum - best done if the weather is good if only because the runs to it can be closed in bad weather. Eat at the Smuggler's restaurant at the end of the piste - you'll need to get a bit of speed up to get there as the run is very flat. You can then either get the bus or ski to the cable car.

While I like all of it, for me the best skiing is located in the top right quarter of the piste map, around Greitspitze and Palinkopf and over towards Paznauner Thaya and Bodenalp, the later of which has a nice restaurant. Tends to be a bit quieter and some tree lined runs which you don't really get elsewhere apart from the home run. As for the home run it splits into two, 1 and 1a part way down taking you to either side of town. It/they are great in good conditions and quiet but can be a bit of a nightmare at the end of the day - very busy and snow conditions can be awkward, tend to get cut up and a mixture of soft snow and ice.

As for Apres the best known bars on the Silvrettabahn side are the Kuhstall, Fire and Ice and the Trofana Alm. The Kuhstall is right by the lift station, Fire and Ice a bit further doen on the right and a bit further on than that the Trofan Alm on your left. TBH I'm not over keen on the Kuhstall and IME Fire and Ice is great as an evening venue but a bit quieter for Apres. The Trofana Alm, however, is amazing. It's very large and very busy spread over two floors. On the other side of town opposite the Pardaschgratbahn you have the Schatzi bar, nice for a drink outside but a bit of a sausage fest inside - it's the dancers on the bar with little clothes on that attracts the blokes. It also doesn't play your traditional Apres Ski cheese. A bit further down across the bridge are Niki's Stadl and the Kitzloch, both great. The Kitzloch becomes a restaurant later while in Niki's the party never stops.The guy leading the party is Niki himself. He used to be in the Austrian junior ski team with Franz Klammer but injury put paid to his racing career. He's a complete nutter.

snow reports

@Corky, wow that's very comprehensive, thank you!! Sounds like the Trofana Alm ans Niki's Stadl will be the first port of call.

I'm looking forward to doing the Duty Free run as well (although I hear it's not really worth buying anything).

Comparisons are rather inevitable, but having skied in France and Austria for years, I know they're very different. I'm well versed in Austrian apres and Ischgl is meant to be the best of the best! I expect it's similar to St Anton and Saalbach - and I'm sure we won't be disappointed! I also hear the skiing is fabulous too, so I can't wait.

I never buy anything but believe there bargains to be had. Need to be careful about customs officers on the way back. They tend to target people with rucksacks.

You know it makes sense.

Oh well, I don't smoke so the most I'd buy would be a bottle of something, but I doubt I'd bother. The run itself sounds lovely.

Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:

I've had decent lunches in the Almrausch on Samnaun side at the bottom of 60/61. You then take the regular bus from outside to the cable car station and the cable car back to the top. Have never bothered with the Duty Free.

A snowHead

@HoneyBunny, it's awesome.

Your going to love it. Largely off the Brit radar (god knows why)

Great skiing for all abilities, probably the best lift system in the Alps, crazy après to suit all ages,tastes and pockets.

What's not to like

Very Happy

I'm going back for the 4th year in a row on 28 Feb. Can't wait.

A snowHead

Yay!

I'm so excited snowHead

Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?

Watching this with interest as I'm going for the first time, later in Feb. have a great time @HoneyBunny!

You need to Login to know who's really who.

Snow/weather was perfect yesterday -10 degrees, so resort was fairly busy. Pistes covered with fresh powder am, most pistes a little bumpy pm.
Should be much quieter today (Monday) and conditions remain excellent.

Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.

Interesting how different people have different experiences and preferences but to me, and everyone I've been to Ischgl with the Trofana Alm is the WORST bar in Ischgl! Maybe we were just unlikey but it was rammed, took ages to get served/constantly jossled and one of the guys saw our first ever bit of fighty-ness in Ischgl (small german man trying to just push through a crowed...and changing his mind when much bigger german man he was pushing looked down at him and, quite politely suggested he think again, to the amusement of everyone around). Perhaps we should give it another go in March...

From where you are I'd actually suggest you skip the Silvrettaseilbahn and take the short walk to the Dorf tunnel and catch the travellators over to the Fimbabahn. In town you have 3 lifts - the big Silvrettaseilbahn in the middle (so closest for over half the town), the upgraded for this year Pardatschgratbahn low down at the other end (so closest to that end of town and flattest walk), and the smaller Fimbabahn higher-up in the middle (so harder for most people to reach and less inviting - but usually shorter-queued/queueless as a result).

When you get up to Idalp (via either Silvretta or Fimba) you have slope right in front of you that takes you to the B2 and B3 lifts...and their long morning/post lunch queues. We usually drop down the slope but swing behind those lifts and down across to blue 2 and play around C2/C3. This is a nice warm-up area and doesn't tend to get too busy as everyone else rushes sheep-like to the top of the mountain.

* One tip for Idalp - the toilets are down-stairs. You can wait for the world's slowest lift, or you can fight down the stairs in ski boots...of you can walk back to the gondola exit/ski locker area and take the escallator down! Amazing the number of people who don't know it's there and by far the easiet option.

There's been talk both ways on doing the village runs during the day. Don't do them first thing as you'll just hit the late-riser queues to get back up. Do them about 11 though and you'll have the piste to yourself and be skis off and straight back in to the gondola without stopping.

For lunch there's nothing wrong with going to Alp Bella for chicken every day... Smile

Apres... depends what you want really as Ischgl has something for all tastes and everywhere is busy and in party mode.

In the centre of town you've got Fire and Ice that kicks off later in the evening under the Silvretta lift. Opposite you have 3 bars in a row - the Kushtal where we feel old, one where we feel young and one age-appropreate but not that great (for Ischgl).
To the right of there (looking up the lift) you've got the Trofana Alm and I think 2 others, one more cocktail and the champagne bar that does beer too and has a bice balcony. There's one more that many miss - the Hotel Trofana bar. OK, so a plush bar with a good wine and spiritsd list and a man on a piano isn't classic Austrian apres but some times you just need a break!

The other way you've got the comedy cocktail bar (more or less under your hotel I think), where we've been moved tables as one was reserved (despite being the only people in there and no-one else coming in) and where the 'twist' in my Martini looked very like an olive.
Next if you turn right up the hill you get to the Kiwi bar, walking over the top of the Golden Eagle (yes going to a British theme pub's a little sad but nice place for a beer and some rock).
If you stay on the level (past the Eagle) you can take the Dorf tunnel through to 'the other side' of Ischgl. Down the metal steps you get:
- Some little bar we've never been pulled in to - doesn't look special.
- The big bar under the Elizabeth Hotel and right opposite the Pardasch. gondola/piste - yes you get some cleavage dancing on the bar, but a saussage-fest otherwise.
- Nikki's Stadl's is next to the river and just keeps going when everwhere else becomes a restaurant. As a result I can't tell you what it's like as I've never been sober-enough to remember it! Smile

- Last but not least you have the Kitzloch. This is your classic dancing-on-the-tables-in-ski-boots place and somewhere I've spent too much of my life Smile

Table on the left is usually the owners, Arnot will be serving Williams mit birne in the square bar in front of you and DJ Boris will be in his booth to the right. Visit after 8pm and the BBQ ribs are amazing.

You'll need to Register first of course.

Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...

Snow was good in Kappl so we only went two days to ischgl, I will write a full report later when not supposed to be at work. The reason we only went two days to ischgl was kappl was quieter so it was better for our kids to ski without the fear of been run over by tools who thought they could ski , you know the type!. However if we were on our own yes ischgl would have us every day. Good bits, so many different runs, fantastic fast lifts, lots of good long runs, decent off piste, although we didn't get to see if there are any trails, as we were only there two days. They have long runs too which are great more time skiing and less time spent on lifts and lift ques. A group of intermediates will have a ball. Apres ski is mad too, we avoided the bigger places like fire and ice, and the popular ones as I didn't fancy pushing to get in, we skied down to the town each evening so it was always late when we hit the après ski. However there are lots and lots or rocking places to go, some not quiet as nuts as the others. We ate in samnaun one day , and at the alp trida area on the other day food was reasonably priced , large portions, ( too large really) and very good both times . You lot will have a fantastic time, . The snow will be good too , because as we left it was snowing very heavy and was due to continue for the next few days, so lucky you.

After all it is free

Perfect day on the slopes today. Maybe not so sunny tomorrow......and it's Ski Show!

*Ski* the Net with snowHeads

Thank you so much for all the input and good wishes everyone, it's really appreciated. Glad you had a great time @biddpyat!

snowHeads are a friendly bunch.

I was wishing that we had stayed in ischgl, kappl had good skiing and the kids got to practice their stuff in peace, they got to do some off piste and did several blacks so they had a ball, the après was dull though. Ischgl had so much to ski, and I love the long runs. The fact that they use escelators to take you up to the gondolas is pretty cool, the double decker cable car bringing you back up from samnaun is also cool. I will certainly go back.

snow reports

As Ive said before I cant understand the excitement about Ischgl
We are heading back for the fifth time in March just to see if we can find out what the fuss is about wink

Have fun

This is all great info, I'm going for the second time in 3 weeks snowHead

Also skied Galtur and Kappl last time, great little resorts and a lot less crowded than Ischgl.

Does anyone know if the new Padgratschbahn gondola has any ski lockers at the base ? As staying in the hotel Alpina so don't want to lug skis up and down the hill everyday.

You know it makes sense.

Just looked on the Ischgl website and it looks like there is storage. I couldn't imagine there wouldn't be as the old one had although not lockers, you just handed your skis to an attendant who stored them in racks for you. The Fimbabahn has lockers, two euros to put them away at night and the same to take them out in the morning. However, you might be able to get it for free.The back section has lockers rented by hotels. Don't know if the Alpina has any but rings a bell. The hotel we stay in has them although not enough for all guests but we seem to manage to always get one.

Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:

Can you ski to Niki's Stadl? Or is it a walk from the bottom of the 1a?

I'm guessing we might need a taxi back to the hotel from there, but that's not a problem!

The 7/7a looks like a nice long run.

A snowHead

You need to walk from the bottom of 1a. Turn right, down the slight hiil past Intersport and cross the bridge on your right and you're there. Bit of a jaunt though, takes at least a minute Laughing

Taxi? How drunk do you intend to get? Shouldn't take more than a ten minute walk. Back past 1a to the Fimbabahn. Take the lift or the stairs up, go through the Dorf tunnel and you're pretty much there.

A snowHead

Sorry forgot to mention 7/7a. It's a great run and a much better way of getting back to the village than 1/1a. Much quieter and better snow conditions. Towards the end it splits into two, one being the main piste and one being a bit of a ski route. However, the latter has been closed the last couple of times I've been since someone got killed in an avalanche. Unfortunately, it doesn't take you all the way back as it brings you to the lower part of 1a but at least you avoid most of it.

Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?

^ ahhh thanks!

LOL I have idea how big the village is or how far the hotel is from anywhere haha. We will discover all this Toofy Grin

You need to Login to know who's really who.

Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.

Don't you mean the Pardaschgratbahhn as the Silvrettabahn is the other end of town? You can ski down on 1 to the Trofana Alm but not Niki's. There roads and a river in the way.

You'll need to Register first of course.

@Corky,
You're right, I meant Pardaschgratbahhn, but you can ski there.(Assuming normal snow low down that is)

Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...

Can you, can't quite see how but willing to give it ago if you can enlighten me as to how to do it.

After all it is free

@Corky, Go down 1a as normal, on the final pitch keep going but stay right there are usually some bumps just off the side of the piste often quite icy, at the bottom of these bumps keep traversing right and you end up on the road at the bend.
We have not been to Nickis but the kids always go down that way before crossing back over the bridge and going down to the car park.

*Ski* the Net with snowHeads

@downhillalltheway,

Help!!

Ischgl. Best bits. Talk to me!

snowHeads Forum Index >>> Resort Reviews and Trip Reports