After a semi-aborted trip overseas earlier this season, I was desperate for a top-up skiing fix before the snow left us entirely. Criteria was simple - cheap as possible and with as few days off needed as possible. Scotland it was. Having been stung by wind and shut lifts at Cairngorm on my only previous venture into the highlands, I knew to abide the most important rule for Scotland - watch the forecast and book as late as possible.
One issue with late notice though is transport prices rocket up. Nevertheless just a few days before travel got us £55 reclining seats (refundable up to day before) on the Friday overnight sleeper from Euston to Fort William and found them surprisingly comfy - at least until we were forced to change carriage in Edinburgh. When compared to minimum flight, transfer to airport, ski carriage costs and hotel for the night it was about a third the price. Woke from my dozing at 7am to find us trundling through Loch Lomond National Park and then onto Ranoch Moor. A dusting of new snow was promising; the multitude of stags watching the passing train from among the heather and within the mist was pure tourist brochure stuff; and together with a coffee and bacon buttie more than made up for the lack of comfort on board.
Arrived at Fort William at 10am. Met by pre-booked taxi to whisk us and skis straight to Nevis (£15). Last scheduled weekend of season so half price pass (£16) and no queue whatsoever to get on gondola. Snow was patchy at best around the lower runs and had to walk to quad chair. However what had been a dusting of new stuff lower down transpired to be 3 inches of fresh powder on a good base by the top of the chair. And after bring dragged above the mist, the views from that chair back down to Fort Bill were utterly stunning.
The next lift - Goose T-bar - that takes you up to the top slopes was long but allowed an inspection of the main red slopes open to us. Snow soft at bottom but in fine condition at the top. And then on summit arrival the best news - Braveheart chair was open and spinning. The back corries are a within-bounds off-piste bowl with the Braveheart chair allowing for laps of the bottom two-thirds. Access into the top third is via the drop-in from Lemmings Ridge. Peering over the edge it looked just about on the limits of my ability and frankly downright scary. But after some encouragement from another skier I took the plunge. Half a dozen turns later and with a huge adrenaline rush still rushing through my veins I found myself gliding under blue skies and Braveherat chair making fresh tracks with hardly a soul in sight setting up one of the best morning skis of my life. The exit from the corries then required sweaty clambering over rocks and trudging through mud back to Snowgoose restaurant for a pint and pasta to refuel for the afternoon. Thank you Nevis.
Fort William itself wasn't much to write home about but Grog and Gruel was nice for food and the Travel Lodge cheap and convenient. Next morning we boarded the first bus heading to Glasgow to pass through some of the most beautiful scenery on the planet and be dropped off into the wilderness at ski road end for Glencoe. I liked Glencoe the moment I saw the place. The setting beats any other resort I've seen, the friendly nature of the place obvious from moment we equipped my mate in the hire shop and the quiet uplift of the Access Chair hanging over snowmelt waterfalls a very relaxing entry. The pass was full price here - £32 - but with almost whole mountain still open and a good base I had no complaints at that. It's a small resort (only 20km of runs I think), but immense variety.
A freshly pisted Happy Valley blue was a glorious warm-up, followed by a much tougher challenge on Spring Run. Then I saw the main black - Flypaper - had been opened. Finding the start of this was a bit of challenge as I clambered unsure of my way over some boulders. Still not certain I had the right spot and with no-one else around I tentatively put on the skis the other side of the boulders and set off. The run is convex and so you can't see where it goes until you are right on it. In fact I wasn't certain I had the right place at all and was scared I was skiing right off the edge of a cliff until I saw a drone hovering above my head. Finally the slope itself came into view to the bottom - steeper than any marked black I've been on in three decades of skiing in Europe and Japan with two huge boulders sat half say down right in the middle of the run. Somewhat lost for nerves, I managed to pluck the courage for just 2 turns while still above those boulders but then let the skis go a bit more when I was confident a fall would at least be met by snow and not rock. Once at the bottom I had the views out over the moors and snow capped hills all alone. That would have been worth the admission price on its own.
Picking the bus back up from the side of the A82 it was another eye-candy 2.5 hour drive to Glasgow where I boarded the sleeper (with bed this time - did have work on the Mon after all) back south. Probably the best 2 days skiing of my life, in my own country (for now at least!) and all for less than £250. While we got lucky with weather, snow and crowds, this trip has definitely made me a convert and I'll be back next year!
So in summary - despite often seeing warnings to the opposite, if you are prepared to rough it on the travel, go late in season and at short notice after checking conditions, then skiing at Nevis and Glencoe can be a very good choice for a couple of days.
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Fantastic.
Got me packing
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
@Deibitto, Thanks. Do you have any pictures?
You've almost persuaded me to try Scottish skiing
@Chamcham, @Mike Pow, Just a disclaimer on my side if on the back of this report you find yourself next year stood in horizontal rain, on-top of patchy slush, in the loading area of the only open poma, after a 30-minute queue, waiting for it to crack your coccyx in two as it launches you up the hill for your first and last run of the day!
I do have pics but don't think I can load up here unless on another public site?
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
@Deibitto, You need to open a snowMedia zone account (under the snowbase tab, top left of home page). It takes a while to get the hang of it, but it means you can upload photos.
@Chamcham, Lovely, let's see if these Nevis pics work then...
Big Ben from Summit Run:
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
@Deibitto, Lovely
After all it is free
After all it is free
That seem to go ok!
Entering the back corries from Lemmings Ridge:
Nice fresh tracks :
Fun under Braveheart:
Views:
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
Wow - more than OK, I'd say
Nice pics
Ski the Net with snowHeads
Ski the Net with snowHeads
Super. Looks perfect.
And totally understand the disclaimer.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
Just brilliant Deibitto! You're preaching to the converted with me & Mrs MA in terms of Scotland skiing - but (knowing what the weather could have been like )I'm just so glad it all worked out for you.
Those travel arrangements and the two centre trip worked with impressive military precision - how did you find out the Glasgow buses would drop off and pick up at Glencoe ski area? Is that an official arrangement? And for the Braveheart Chair to be on at Nevis really was your lucky day - we've only seen it on on two days on our last 10 or 12 trips up there.
You'll have to get the train to Aviemore/Cairngorm next!
Chamcham: Have a look at the Scotland Snow Report thread for more photos that might make you fancy a trip north of the border . As Deibitto has found, the Alps or Rockies it's not - but there's just something so special, so different and so completely rewarding about skiing in Scotland. It's not short of challenges either - see Deibitto's Flypaper report . And those so inclined (like us) can ski tour into June too.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
@mountainaddict, I was a big fan of moffatross' reports last year - fantastic looking skiing, particularly for trousers. It's just such a long way from the south coast . If I were to try to get in a sneaky touring weekend, how would you suggest I went about it?
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
@Deibitto, Nevis Range was the place to be on Saturday
Here's a little video from the same day, going into the next Coire over from where you skied (not me skiing):
I opened this thread hoping for some nice pics, and wasn't disappointed. A great report, @Deibitto, with lots of nice extras, such as the stags.
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
@mountainaddict, Cheers, yep I'm aware we got lucky on this occasion with both braveheart and flypaper open. Having never toured in my life I was planning on trying it out with some instruction in the Cairngorms using the Aviemore train next year.
The bus is a regular Citylink one which runs half a dozen times a day between Fort William and Glasgow with a scheduled stop at Glencoe. Lugging my weekend bags - skis, boots and all - up the mile-long entry road was pretty hard work but thankfully for me everyone else they had some showers at the base lodge!
Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
@balernoStu, Brilliant - I saw folk wandering off at the summit and wondered where they were heading. That kind of route is probably a bit beyond me at moment but if I could get the guts for it maybe something to aim for.
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
A few of Glencoe for balance. As great as Nevis' views were I personally liked the rawness of Glencoe's even more.
This one was taking it all in after finishing flypaper:
My buddy enjoying the quiet and perfectly pisted slopes of Happy Valley first thing in morning:
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Deibitto
A great report - thanks for posting. I am so pleased you had a great trip.
Your (not inconsiderable) efforts were certainly well rewarded! I'm still chuckling at the thought of you trudging with your luggage up the ski road at Glencoe... Hats off to you for that alone!
Glencoe is our favourite Scottish ski area. Your "rawness" description fits nicely and (as you know) the views are stunning/world class/breathtaking!
We are hoping to get up there for a night's camping (free of charge at Glencoe while the skiing is open) & a further day's skiing before the season ends. We are lucky in that we can drive there in about four and a half hours.
@Deibitto, excellent, and I think you've managed to score some of Scotland's finest lift served skiing in those 2 days. Glencoe is well suited to late season skiing, the deep gullys which it's marked runs follow can take a while to fill in but then hold snow for a long time. Nevis Range hold snow very well on upper slopes and the back corries, but as you've experienced the lower slopes become broken more easily in mild weather. Both areas are stunning. For me the view from Nevis Range along loch Eil towards Glenfinnan and Skye on a good day could be my favourite anywhere.
+ much kudos for managing this on public transport.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
@Deibitto, good work, an excellent report. I think Glencoe is one of my favourite ski areas, it's not massive but the feel of it is great
FAQ
Poster: A snowHead
. And those so inclined (like us) can ski tour into June too.
. If I were to try to get in a sneaky touring weekend, how would you suggest I went about it?
