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Setting Bindings on new skis - K2 Rictor / Atomic Affinity

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
The Partner and I have bought new skis for this year. A good deal obtained online so now need to set up the bindings. Both are already fitted to the skis and seem to have been adjusted to the correct length for the boots (based on the info we supplied).

However, I want to understand how to set them and get the DIN settings right.

For boot length the Atomic's seem straightforward with a 'macro' adjustment I think from screws on the front part and a back section that slides over a scale from 1-16.

The K2's are confusing me however. The front has a flip up catch and slides over a scale which is 8mm increments (310, 318, 326). My boots are 325, both skis were set to 326. However, in trying to work out how they work I've now adjusted the back section of one by a notch and cant' find the release. Any clues?

I understand the centre mark of the boot should be central to the skis. The Atomics I'm assuming this is lined up with a white section on the bindings. On the K2s they seem lined up to a pen mark on the ski sidewall - where has this been measured from?

Finally, DIN settings - I've found the charts online and my setting seems to match what they've been set to when i've had ski's set for me. I figured testing via the instructions here http://www.bobski.com/safety/french_binding_system_self_test.pdf to check they're releasing OK.

Any further advice? Anything else I need to check on them?
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Also, the steps on the K2 scale for boot length seem quite wide - is that normal? Best to go slightly tight or slightly loose if between marks?
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Sorted on the binding adjustment - the front clip on the K2's allows both front and rear to move. Easy.

Now just need to set the DIN's
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
b33k34, I would suggest that the forward pressure needs to be set correctly. If you are not sure what you are doing then take them to a good ski shop, as the bindings are fitted, they probably will not charge you or it will be a token amount, but for the bindings to work correctly, correct forward pressure is vital. You only have one pair of knees.
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
I don't understand why it's so difficult to get instructions for skis - there really isn't anything especially complex here. I come from a mountain biking background and I like to know how things work - it's a safety issue. Unless you know how things go together and operate you won't know when something is broken or mis-set.


The Atomics have a very fine adjustment on the rear binding - can adjust a mm or so at a time and that adjusts the forward pressure with a range shown at the back. No problem.

The K2's lack the FP adjustment screw below the DIN screw that most of their bindings have. If I run them too short (at 318mm) the marker on a piston at the back is obviously out of range - pulled right into the binding. Running them within a mm of boot length, or too long, leaves the marker fully exposed so I'm guessing that (despite the boot returning to centre when pushed) a tiny bit more pressure might be appropriate. So I've found the marker but can't find anything that looks like an adjustment.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
Forward pressure does need to be set correctly and it is very important but there's no reason you can't do it yourself. If you find a good online guide and follow it carefully you should be fine.

I did that, but after reading a load of stuff on here I started having doubts so I lugged my skis to my nearest tech who promptly told me they were set up fine, so it was a bit of a waste of time. Obviously it was nice to know I'd done it right, but it was pretty inconvenient dragging them all the way through town just for that. Now I know I can do it I will probably just do it myself in future.

Basically it depends how much you trust yourself with this sort of thing and how easy it is for you to get to a tech. You could always get a tech in resort to check them over for you as that's likely to be more convenient.
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Also there's a few good ski techs on here who will be able to help - Spyderjon/Spyderjohn I think?? Someone will correct me I'm sure.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
b33k34 wrote:
I don't understand why it's so difficult to get instructions for skis - there really isn't anything especially complex here. I come from a mountain biking background and I like to know how things work - it's a safety issue. Unless you know how things go together and operate you won't know when something is broken or mis-set.




Exactly - mountain bikes are infinitely more complex than a set of ski bindings yet people act as if setting up skis is some sort of black art, whereas are happy to do all sorts of safety critical stuff to their bikes without taking them to a mechanic.
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 You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
Absolutely - i'm sure that someone tried to tell me that it's vital, even on brand new ski's, to have the DIN tensions measured as you can't rely on the markings. That may be a good idea but every rental shop I've seen just pulls a set of heavily used skis from the rack and sets them from the chart and the binding markings. Slap them in and out a few times to ensure they're realeasing OK, check the FP is in range and you're on your way out of the shop.
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Ski the Net with snowHeads
b33k34, My allstars with motion bindings with the dial have the same issue with forward pressure, either set correctly and its out of range just, or next setting up and the piston thing at the back is out of range the other way, i run them tighter rather then not enough forward pressure. As with not enough they just fell off in moguls. You can test by pushing the boot toe sideways in the binding, to see what it will do on the two settings.
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 snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
OK - problem solved. There is not FP adjust screw on either of these skis - you adjust FP by fine tuning the boot length. On the Atomic you have a fixed position at the front and micro adjust at the back.

On the K2 with Marker 12 bindings the front and rear bindings move independently. Boots are 325mm. Having both bindings set at 326 results in slightly too loose. With one at 326 and the other at 318 it's spot on in the middle of the FP indicator.
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
b33k34, whatever your weight is in kilos, divide it by ten. There's your rough DIN setting sorted. Cool
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 So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
I realise this is an older thread, but i've come across it whilst trying to find out how to adjust my K2 MXC 14 bindings.

For reference, there's a full binding installation/setup guide for Marker bindings (2013-2014) including forward pressure adjustments for all variants here: http://www.markercanada.com/pdf/manual/13%2014%20Tech%20Manual%20USA.pdf


Last edited by So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much on Sun 5-10-14 1:29; edited 1 time in total
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
Plus you can always err on the low side for DIN settings and increase by 0.5 if you start getting too many pre releases. It can also vary enormously by ski, some skis seem to like a delicate touch, some chargers need a more robust setting to keep them on your feet.
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