 Poster: A snowHead
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When looking at used snow skis, what should one look for? I mean, the bases should be good and not have deep gouges, the skis should look cared for, but, what should I look out for? What could someone who knows what they are doing cover up? How do you tell when a ski is just "tired" and there isn't enough left to tune? How much of a metal edge should exist? Any tips or thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Things to look for:
1. Damage to edges - not rust, but bends or cracks.
2. Look along the length of the base for signs of it being twisted.
3. Check the bindings - how much play is there in them.
4. Check the top sheet for cracks/gouges. If there are any, make sure they are filled in - if water gets in to the core, it can do damage.
5. Find out more about the skier. Where have they used the skis? Why are they changing them?
6. For an intermediate or above ski, expect to pay £150-200. If it's a beginner ski, then probably <£150, that's assuming there's up to about 10 weeks skiing on them.
7. I'm sure others can add a lot more!
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Hold the ski up to your eye and take a close look down the edge. If it's a dead straight line, dont buy the ski... 
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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You guys are crazy. Priority 1, have they been regularly waxed? Ask the owner this question. You can tell yourself by the look of the bases, dry and stringy is not good. Question 2, how many times have they been stone ground? This will tell you how much base is left. If the answer is 5 times, move on. In fact, I'd only take a pair after 2 grinds - no more. If they've been ground on a belt, also leave em. Number 3 (should actually be number one) How much edge is left? Racers and hardcore skiers might sharpen their edges all the time and have almost nothing left after one season! I don't know if this is something that can be measured but bring a good newish ski with you to look at for comparisons sake. If there isn't much left, they'll be useless cause you can't sharpen them anymore without taking your sidewall out...
Used skis are a real roll of the dice. If you're only paying a hundred bucks or something, they might be worth it. Locally, new old stock (as in last years model) can be found often for half price, so if you are looking for a good quality ski to put some mileage on, I'd buy new. Don't take offense to my crazy comment. Crazy is a good thing! 
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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skiottawa, were you ski.fortuneclub.ca at one point? I bought some used skis on there once . ..
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Nope, sorry...
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| skiottawa wrote: |
| I don't know if this is something that can be measured |
less than 1mm is bad - the edge will be weak and will be more easily damaged. Of course some new skis don't start off with much edge.
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The one thing that nobody has mentioned in the condition of the core. I suppose this is because it's very difficult to explain and demonstrate on the interweb.
The best place to start learning about 'how to press a ski' is in a ski shop with new, unskied, skis so you can find out how a ski should feel.
Take the ski leaving the tail firmly on the floor, if it is a twintip then you will need to lower tip of the ski so that it is the true ski touching the ground and not the upturned part (make sense?). Now push the ski in the middle of the ski. Feel how the ski resists your pushing? Try pushing it and then quickly removing the pushing hand and watch the amount of rebound.
Now do the same thing for the top half of the ski. (Leave the tail in the same place but just press the ski between the centre and the tip). This will give you a better idea of the flex pattern in the tip.
Repeat for the tail.
This is the longitudinal flex. Almost all of the skis in the rack should have a progressive flex pattern and so should feel different for each section of the ski that you flex. Go up and down the rack pressing different skis. You should quickly be able to work out the characteristics of the flex pattern and what the ski was designed for / by.
Torsional flex can be felt by placing the ski tail between you ankles and twisting the tip of the ski in you hands. Again, just do this to a couple of different skis so that you can get used to it. This is where you 'should' be able to feel the most difference between entry level skis and advanced + skis.
Now take your new knowledge to your 2nd hand skis. Do they still have life left in the cores? Feel for: is the flex pattern the same in each of the skis? Is it consistent through both skis? No strange noises or jerky feelings? Plenty of rebound left?
Also check that there is still a camber left in the skis - they shouldn’t lie flat on the ground.
Buying 2nd hand isn't so bad, for me the important parts are the internal condition (does she flex nice ^), how many times has she been drilled and how many times has she been ground?
I do seasons and gave up worrying about sharp edges and decent bases years ago. I wax regular but hardly ever take a stone to my edges (I try to ski off the groomers mind). I try to only have my bases ground 2 /3 times per season and I hope that I get a good season out of my skis, although as part of a quiver my skis tend to last me 3 seasons - unless they break before that 
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Oh... bindings will effect the flex pattern of ski... In brief:
When a boot is attached to the ski you have a solid mass screwed into the ski so the ski can no longer flex the entire length without any interruption. So binding manufacturers have tried to reduce this by playing with different ideas of allowing the skis to flex bellow the binding. For example check out Tyrollia Free Flex or Volkl Motion Rails to see how some companies are trying to reduce this.
Over all without a boot in the bindings then you shouldn't be able to feel a huge difference in the flex pattern when pressing the ski. They may reduce the rebound from the centre point of the ski. It's worth thinking about as you get more and more used to pressing different skis - new, old, mounted & unmounted.
Good Luck.
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