 Poster: A snowHead
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Logistical details:
20th to 27th Jan. Family of 4. Kids 10 and 8. Ski Esprit. Manchester to Chambery. Hotel des Deux Domaines in Belle Plagne.
Day -1
We headed off for the delights of Frankie and Bennies for tea and the Premier Inn overnight. The former never disappoints and you can never have too much purple in a hotel. Having acquired a 4*4 and snow tyres, it was no great surprise that road conditions were perfect as we headed over Saddleworth Moor on the M62!
Day 0
A leisurely start by the standards of skiing holidays, as we didn’t need to get up until 415am. Too early for a famous Premier Inn buffet breakfast, unfortunately.
Unlike my last two skiing holidays, I’d avoided injuring myself the day before setting off, so was in fine form for wrestling with the volumes of luggage that only a wife and two daughters can generate.
The multi story car park was expecting us, check in went smoothly, breakfast was good, security efficient and the plane took off only a minute late. I drew the potential short straw with boarding card next to the two kids, with Mrs Snowplough in safe isolation across the aisle, but even this worked well as the kids plugged into some downloaded American tosh TV on an iPad and barely said a word the whole flight. The coach transfer was similarly uneventful and we were installed in our rooms, shortly after lunchtime, buoyed by reports of superb snow conditions.
The Hotel DDD is quite superb, it must be said. It also has an interesting lay out. One arrives in level -3, reception is level 0, the boot room level 3, and the pavement level 9. This isn’t the only thing unusual though. In all other Esprit set-ups I’ve encountered, the Esprit staff have brought the kids hire stuff to the boot room, with adults responsible for their own kit. Here, it was the other way round.
All in all, though, the feeling that the Skiing Gods were on our side could not be avoided, a feeling enhanced as Mrs S and I sneaked out for a crafty “après” drink whilst the kids were having tea,
before we’d even done any skiing!
The Esprit wine is still as it was in 2010, though this year’s batch of Grenache was well above average. I can’t comment on that other stalwart of Esprit catering – the cheeseboard – as I’d resolved to not partake. The old digestive system isn’t what it used to be, unfortunately!
Overall, catering was very good. My personal highlight was a portion of duck early on in the week that was so rare it swam to my table and was still quacking as I ate it!
Day 1
It was the usual carnage in the boot room on the first day of lessons, but the kids were soon launched into their lessons. Our plan was to do a couple of runs from the top of the Arpette chair to warm up before joining the ski host. This we did, and then did a couple more runs from the same chair to warm up some more!
Overall, the ski host was a bit disappointing. She didn’t have the enthusiasm one normally associates with Esprit folk paid to ski rather than clean toilets, though maybe the fear of being banged up in a French prison for illegal guiding tempers youthful enthusiasm. Anyway, we didn’t sign up again. (The day trip she hosted to Les Arcs was, by all accounts, a belter, so maybe I’m just being miserable!)
Armed with the kids, we headed over towards Les Coches in the afternoon, for some fun through the trees. I didn’t have much fun, though, as it started snowing heavily and I couldn’t see anything and kept falling over on piles of loose snow that shouldn’t have been there. (Note to self – ask Santa for some new goggles this year!)
All in all, not a bad first day, particularly as it carried on snowing into the evening and beyond...
Day 2
Clear skies and bright sun all day! Shin high powder on the pistes!! What more could one ask for? Nothing! A great morning down towards Montalbert.
The afternoon was undertaken in the same area, with the addition of the kids and a hot chocolate stop. A common theme in La Plagne/Les Arcs is the relative cheapness of catering. Mind you, after our last two trips to Courchevel and Saas Fee, this might be very relative indeed!
Day 3 and Day 4
No more snow, but more clear, sunny days. More fun and games towards Les Coches and Montalbert (though not at the same time!)
Day 5
This was Ski school test day. We had ascertained the previous day that Elder daughter was going for her gold star, with her younger sis aiming for bronze. If the kids were nervous, they didn’t show it. (Unlike me, apparently!)
When we returned from our morning stint, we received news that both youngsters had done their stuff and the precious metal badges had been secured. Elder daughter had beaten the time limit for her slalom course by a mere 0.064 seconds! Luckily, the kids have inherited their mother’s skiing abilities. I thought back to holidays 3 or 4 years ago, where I frequently carried younger daughter, her skis and my skis home at the end of each day, and allowed the chest to swell with a little paternal pride all the same!
Ironically, this was my worst skiing day of the trip. It was chuffing cold at the Roche de Mio and the first half of the run to Champagny was on dull blue runs where I just got progressively colder. There was one red run we did that warmed me up – but this was a very narrow, icy, road, so not really enjoyable – and this was more than offset by a succession of slow, exposed chairs on the way back to collect the kids at lunch. I even went for handwarmers in the afternoon, but the slow chair to the Roche de Mio (Inversons ?) and the run down to the tunnel defeated them, and I was suffering with chilly digits by the end of the day. Nothing too severe though, and certainly not enough to impede my progress through the array of delicacies laid on as part of the ritual “afternoon tea and cakes”!
Day 6
It was sunny again, but a fair bit warmer than the previous day, which was ideal for our family day trip to Les Arcs. The run to the Vanoise Express is very good in its own right, and the trip over the valley is something else. A highlight for us was being able to see the Esprit chalet where we’d stayed in 2010, if only for memories of the outdoor hot-tub and the 100 steps in ski boots...
The aim of today’s trip was to revisit our favourite Les Arcs runs from 2010, including the black Eceurils run back to the Vanoise Express. I’d inadvertently taken younger daughter down it on our previous trip when she was not quite six, and have never really lived down this incident of parental ineptitude.
We went up the Transarc, did some reds down towards Arc 2000, before heading to the snowpark above the Arpette restaurant. For some reason, I love snowparks. I’m far too old and far too unskilful for such frivolity one would think, but whilst Mrs S refused to join in, the kids were delighted to follow me over the green jumps for a few laps.
Whilst we were at the bottom of the jumps, some guy wiped out spectacularly off the final black jump. He was immediately surrounded by a large crowd, and there he remained. It didn’t look good, it must be said. I hope we was OK.
Fortunately, the kids hadn’t seen the carnage, so they were still in high spirits as we adjourned to the Arpette restaurant for lunch. We timed our arrival perfectly – 1145am – being pretty much the first people in the queue. By the time we were seated and tucking into our well deserved goodies, the queue was practically out of the door. The hot chocolates are so big here that they are served in vessels barely smaller than a washing up bowl!
With no further prevarication, we headed over to the much-anticipated Ecuerils run, though not without a crushing blow to my ego before clipping back in. For several years, younger daughter has skied happily behind me in our standard family formation. Whether this is because she really likes being paired with her duffer of a Dad or because I’m the only sucker prepared to ski with her teddy poking out of my bag, I’m not sure I want to know. But at the end of lunch, she announced that her teddy would be sleeping during the afternoon session and would therefore be in rather than out of the bag. As a result, so would be following her sister, rather than me in the “batting order”. Just to make sure I got the point she added “You’re tail end Charlie from now on, Dad!”
So off we went, with me in my place. Mrs S then led us on a merry old dance between pistes and through the trees, in fact across anything that wasn’t flat, smooth and flattering. The youngster’s promotion was obviously most timely, as she was flying. I “sucked it up”, accepted the changing of the guard and consoled myself with whatever pleasures I could find at skiing in perfect weather, in great conditions, with a most agreeable lunch on board and the knowledge that the rest of the family was also having great fun, even if I couldn’t see them. Needless to say, there are plenty of pleasures to be found in such circumstances!
We reunited for a coordinated descent of Ecurils and what a different 3 years makes. Then, I’d inched my way down the steep pitches with a rather scared 5 year old, whereas this time we hammered down it with the style and panache of the opening credits of Ski Sunday. Before we knew it, we were safely ensconced in the Vanoise Express. An unexpected bonus of being demoted to Tail End Charlie is that younger daughter has also miraculously acquired the gift of being able to carry her skis for non-trivial distances. It’s a miracle!!
Our timing was perfect, as we hopped of the lift for our final run just as the sun went in the temperature dropped sharply. Spirits were high indeed as we debooted and discussed next year’s plans! For once, I fessed up to the rest of the team that I was pretty shattered and might not be able to keep up in future. “You couldn’t keep up this afternoon, Dad!” I was informed. True enough, but the blighters will have to be nice to me for as long as I’m footing the bill.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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The Flying Snowplough, Great report,were off to Plagne Centre in the morning, just hope our trips goes as well as yours, thanks for whetting my appetite even more 
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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lovely report really gets the feel of the trip. Our 2 girls (a week past 12 and 7 will be going for their gold and bronze etoile also this year with Esprit in Courchevel). I will be suitably Dad like....
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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The Flying Snowplough,
I'm guessing you may have came across our neighbours who were in the same place same time with Esprit - don't know if the chalet is so big that you get to know everyone or not
Apparently they had a fab time and the weather was good i hear
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| The Flying Snowplough wrote: |
Day 5I even went for handwarmers in the afternoon, but the slow chair to the Roche de Mio (Inversons ?) and the run down to the tunnel defeated them, and I was suffering with chilly digits by the end of the day.. |
Notorious for being chuffing freezing that chair, but it does avoid the bottlenecks for the gondola @ Bellecote
Great TR by the way!
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As one who will be dipping toes in the family ski holiday pool next season, this TR made inspiring reading!
Extra marks for including the word "prevarication" too.
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The Flying Snowplough,
Made me laugh, fabulous post & yes & as parents we all seem to go through similiar issues. I recall our eldest [I think it was at La Plagne] when she was probably around 12 years old pretified about some blue, eventually, after veiled threats she turned & straight lined it.... the inevitable happened & she wiped out! We ski-ied down only to find she was in histerics WTH!
Now as an 18year old she will even get up early to go ski-ing!!
Just to agree, their is nothing as magic as seeing your kids wizzing down the hill, generally faster, neater in front of their old parents....happy days!
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Great Trip Report. I think this line sums up La Plagne quite concisely.
| Quote: |
| a succession of slow, exposed chairs |
Yep that's La Plgane for you, with no immediate plans to replace them 
There is talk of refurbishing the pedestrian Tele Metro between Plagne Centre and Aime 2000.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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The Flying Snowplough, lovely report, takes me back 20 years or so.
The sequel is about to begin: 'Family skiing holidays; the grandchildren'.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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The Flying Snowplough, I remember reading your great TR at the time. I am now going to the same place, would you mind answering a question? How big were the supplied towels? We're they a standard bath towel sized or bigger? I have read loads of reviews and ones from last year were complaining about how small the towels were, but I have read one from this year which makes mention of how big the towels were.
Thanks
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The Flying Snowplough - A great review - not much different from our own family experience.
We have used the Premier inn at Manchester Airport, coupled with the parking at the hotel. Basically you leave your car in the hotel car park and check it in at reception. In the morning you get the shuttle bus or a taxi - £6 to the terminal. On return taxi back to the hotel and your car is waiting for you. It worked really well for our 7 am flight and Cost £66 for the family room and 7 days parking.
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You know it makes sense.
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Great TR! You obviously had a lovely family trip, it comes across so well. It's great that you can all ski together and have fun as well.
Very interesting that Esprit are still ski hosting. I wonder how long it will be before they get collared on the slopes. I assume they're not wearing uniforms?
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Its possible that the OP was away before the ruling was made, given the TR date.
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Poster: A snowHead
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Chasseur, he was. I resurrected his thread to ask a question about the accommodation.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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| NickyJ wrote: |
The Flying Snowplough, I remember reading your great TR at the time. I am now going to the same place, would you mind answering a question? How big were the supplied towels? We're they a standard bath towel sized or bigger? I have read loads of reviews and ones from last year were complaining about how small the towels were, but I have read one from this year which makes mention of how big the towels were.
Thanks |
Sorry - Only just seen this! I hope the towels and the rest of your trip was good!
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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 No worried - BTW towels were plentiful and a descent size (in case anybody else cares about things like that).
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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| NickyJ wrote: |
| No worried - BTW towels were plentiful and a descent size (in case anybody else cares about things like that). |
One thing I omitted from my original report was the God-awful virus I picked up whilst in the Hotel DDD. Whether it was the flight, the sheer number of kids or something simmering in the hot-tub (where I spent a lot of time, soothing my aching limbs) I don't know, but I was wiped out for a good three weeks afterwards. It was so serious, that even Mrs Snowplough was sympathetic! Luckily, the symptoms only arrived in the boot room on the last afternoon, so the holiday wasn't spoilt. Even more luckily, the kids didn't succumb, as they are far less stoical than me!
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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There was a sickness bug which hit several kids while we were there, while I was dropping the eldest off for sprites another child threw up over the floor in the meeting area. A little bit later pulling our boots on in the boot room one of the staff got a call to bring back one of them as they had thrown up while going to the lesson, worried it might be our daughter I checked with them who it was, it wasn't Ellie thankfully but turned out to the couple siting next is on the benches child.
Hubby was a bit dodgy for a couple of days not sickness but the "other end" (eternally thankful to Boardiac for the drugs he supplied him with ahead of the coach transfer and flight). I think it is ineffitable with soapy children from so many different areas of the country sadly. It's like start of new school / new term all over again.
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It's certainly a downside of the larger Esprit hotels. There are just so many bugs doing the rounds that the chance of one breaching the immune system are much increased. I wouldn't have minded so much if I'd been "on the lash" every night to wear myself out, but I was in bed by 1030 most nights!
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FAQ
Really communicates the spirit of a family ski holiday. May there be many more, even if TEC gets left further and further behind. I am looking forward to the day the first grand-child leaves me for dust. I have three kids - one can leave me for dust, a brilliant skier. With the other two, I can keep up. 
