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Small Isere Resorts 2009-10

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Just a quick update. I was going to go up to Chamrousse today, except they appear to have closed half of the resort from the 1650 station: None of the lifts on that side were open, but the 1750 station was functioning. Snow depth is very low way up to La Croix at 2200. Not sure whether it was because of a lack of snow cover because it was fine (if a bit patchy) on tuesday when I was up there. Cold snap expected from tomorrow, with snow on Sunday so I am hoping that the conditions improve (and that today's closure was temporary).

Instead, went up to Les Sept Laux. Very slushy everywhere, except at the top of Le Pouta (the highest point). Otherwise, quite hard work on the old pins. But, it is skiable right down to the station. Again, cold snap much needed, with some fresh snow. Otherwise, it is looking like I may start having to get up to Argentiere (Grands Montets, Chamonix) to find some decent snow.

In God we Trust Happy
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Here's a bit of video from The Collet:-


http://youtube.com/v/GS5YctVmlxI
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Thanks to both of you for continuing updates.

I noticed all the lifts and runs on Recoin side are closed, hopefully temporarily, and the webcam at the top is pointed skywards.

Fingers crossed for the cold snap.
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Davidof - Nice! What a lovely day.
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16C at Grenoble this morning with a foehn. It was dry at least. In Geneve it is raining, a bit colder but raining at 1100m at any rate.
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Update: snowing at 1100 meters in the Haute-Savoie now.
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One by one the local resorts are closing, today it was the turn of the l'Alpe du Grande Serre to the south-east of Grenoble.



There has been around 20-30cm of fresh snow at 1800m + but it was very heavy even at the summit of the runs at 2100m.

Junior and I headed right to the top of the Gd Serre via various fairly slow chairs and drag lifts. Not too many people but no sign of the sun promised on Saturday by Meteo Chance.



The ski down covers 1000 vertical meters, but you need to take a chair to return via a col to do it, so there is really 800m from the summit of the pistes to the resort.



Prices for food are reasonable: a sausage / frites comes in at 4.50euros.
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davidof, Ssd they've closed. Aztec & Mr Aztec enjoyed their trip last week, and want to go back next year when there's more snow. Very Happy
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easiski wrote:
davidof, Ssd they've closed. Aztec & Mr Aztec enjoyed their trip last week, and want to go back next year when there's more snow. Very Happy


I don't think the fresh snow will last too long at 1400m though, they could probably have made it to easter but why bother when there are no skiers?

The area has a lot of potential, bigger than its 55km of runs would have you believe.
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Snowng down to 1000m today.
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a little tour of the horizon from 4pm looking towards the Belledonne and les 7 laux


http://youtube.com/v/hm580wySPSc

actually I think I've skied just about every slope you can see in the video.
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It was snowing at around 400m as I head up into the Chartreuse today and had settled overnight on the Col de la Placette (600m); unfortunatly I was on my way to work rather than to ski though. Lovely views from my office window.

Quote:

The area has a lot of potential, bigger than its 55km of runs would have you believe.

I agree; it's a very underated resort with some nice off-piste.
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la Ruchere

Well hard to call this a ski resort as the two drag lifts were removed sometime between 1990 and today. On Friday I headed up in what were some of the best snow conditions of the season. As Dave says, snow fell to low levels and settled from 900 meters. There have been two dumps of 40cm each. The last one on Wednesday/Thursday.

This is the old lift hut and the baby ski piste.



There was a second ski run the longer Charmettes. The area is known for holding snow well so I'm not sure why they removed the lifts. Maybe le Desert d'Entremont had more potential.

Anyway I skied the Petit Som and you can find the trip report here.

http://pistehors.com/news/forums/viewthread/576/

I stopped for a local beer at the Ruche Agiter (the disturbed bees nest) http://www.la-ruche-a-giter.fr/ and the menu looks good too.
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davidof, nice report and a good set of photos. Interesting that you've got slabby snow out that way, this far east it's just been mega-sluffy not bonding the old snow pack but with the new layer not bonding to itself either. Mind it's set to be very windy and with tonights snowfall that might make interesting (dangerous) conditions from tomorrow.
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davidof, I just want to thanks for this great series of reports. A lot of people are fixated on the large resorts but it's not the number of lifts or the kms of piste that make a great day out but rather the quality of the snow and the interesting places and people you meet. Thanks again Smile
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 Poster: A snowHead
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davidof, brillant thread. As usual, I only find these things near the end.

like Sarge McSarge, I have long thought there was far too much concentration here on the main (TO Brochure) resorts.
I mean, you can find all the data you want on ValD, ValT, La Various, etc. - the web is full of it.
As your thread so wonderfully shows, the real fun of skiing is elsewhere, but info about these places is hard to find
Much of this lack, I suspect, due to those who have found them not wanting the rest of us to trot along and ruin the place.
Understandable.

I had to look around a fair amount just to find this place.
Your first post suggests northern alps: not quite how I would have described it: Chamrousse.com
No doubt further obfuscation to keep us riff-raff out Toofy Grin
(Better map here: even then its hard to find. Look for Vaulnayays-le-Haut and Saint Martin d'Uriage to the left of Vaujany.

Those two lifts they removed: is that just temporary for the end of the season? Or was that permanent?
That poor hut does look rather lonely.

More threads like this please.
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Snow snow everywhere but not a running ski lift to take

I felt like the ancient mariner... maybe it was just the laudenum? Here we were surrounded by some of the best snow of the season and all the ski resorts were long since shut. Where was the old time liftie who would simply flip a switch and fire up a lift for the pleasure of the locals? Fired by the bean counters no doubt.

The slopes at the Col de Granier were skiable



but those at St Pierre de Chartreuse (le Planolet) were even better

and some guys had skinned up to la Scia to profit from the conditions.



St Pierre has some fantastic off piste, either of the backside down to Perquelin or through many wooded bowls. It needs a major dumpage to get the best out of the terrain and is now well known to local riders.

I was doing some research into the missing ski areas of the Chartreuse. I'd long thought that Corbel had some lifts but I discovered there were drags all over the range 30 years ago. The only trace is the lift hut at la Ruchere (it had three drag lifts with a total vert of 250 meters).
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Jonpim wrote:
[
Your first post suggests northern alps: not quite how I would have described it: Chamrousse.com


In weather terms the Southern Alps start at the Col du Lauteret and the col de Luiz la Croix Haute. If you drive these routes you will notice a change in the trees from northern pines to southern meleze as you cross the cols. Politically the Isere and two Savoies are the Northern Alps.
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On the way back from the Petit Som I stopped at the ski resort of the Col de Porte. This is also closed although people were skiing the cross country trails, again with excellent snow conditions.

I decided to climb to the summit of the Chamechaude (via route 1 in blue) then ski the west couloir (route 8 in red).



I'd never done this descent. There is a small drop half way down the couloir then you have a tricky descent for about 10 meters as the end of the couloir is inconveniently blocked by a cliff band.

The summit and couloir had excellent powder



which turned to crust existing the couloir at the bottom (too much wind, not enough sun).

If you are interested I've described the route here:

http://pistehors.com/news/forums/viewthread/577/
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So Saturday morning came and there seemed to be a weather window. I got junior up early, much to his protests as it was not a school day and we headed up to the 7 Laux for 9.30. A miracle for us. It was probably a bit too early. The Courduroy was still frozen into hard rails but by 10h30 the snow had softened and it was probably the best skiing of the season. Fast conditions, not too cold and not too many skiers and zero queues.

We finished at 12h15 as the wind was getting up. Junior has realized that he can take the blue "village" pistes without turniing, skiing a bit like some world cup skier but on the 2nd from last run he skied across the board of a big black guy who was learning tripping the poor man up. I decided junior was getting too cocky and it was time to leave.

Last night another dumpage of 30cm of snow down to 1200 meters in the Isere. That brings us to over a meter in the week. Be careful lots of avalanche activity out there.
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davidof, some great photos in this report - I particularly like the one with the old lift hut. It is a shame that the lift companies cannot run the service outside of peak season. It is the same story for quite a few small French resorts - it seems so sad when they are all now sitting silently under a deep blanket of fresh snow... Enjoyed your reports, and hoping to get in a day trip or two next season.
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davidof, I've loved this thread, there seem to be so many little spots around Grenoble to ski at. Please do this thread again next year. Very Happy
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Another 20-30cm of snow on Saturday night so I was tempted up to the Col du Coq late on Sunday, it was cold so the lateness didn't seem too much of a worry. There was fresh snow on the road from around 1250m, a reminder that you can need chains or snow tires almost any time of year in the Alps.

The col du Coq was a great ski station. It always has snow, from November to April and this year was no exception. You can see the slopes way down below in this photo



Col du Coq: http://pistehors.com/backcountry/wiki/Isere-Drome/Col-Du-Coq

incidentally this was the route I decided to ski down after the sirene voices temped me up to the Dent du Crolles. The col du Coq has been closed since 1995, the resort building was burned down by vandals in 2000 but the lifts are still there and could probably be got running again if snowheads want to buy a ski resort. The pistes have been reclaimed by trees. Back in the heyday there were plans to build a chair lift.

more in this report: http://pistehors.com/news/forums/viewthread/579/
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davidof wrote:
the lifts are still there and could probably be got running again if snowheads want to buy a ski resort.


Hmm.... a snowheads ski resort.... I wonder what that would be like..?!
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In case you fancy a trip up the Dent de Crolles when you are passing here is the route.



There was another 30cm of snow overnight in the Vercors (and 70cm in the Ecrins and points south-east) but the north-easterly wind was blowing full hoolie this morning moving a lot of snow around on the tops so time to take it easy and do a bit of piste skiing so we toddled up to Autrans. Me, the missus and junior.



The photo is not brilliant. The Grand Domain was open with a nice little cafe called l'Aventure. Lift passes were 8 euros. Weather was fantastic. Pistes were fast from 11am getting a bit sloppy when we left around 3.30pm. Junior and I headed up the chair to the top of the area and explored the blues and greens. Junior was more controlled today. It was blowing a gale at the summit but warmer lower down the valley.

The conditions were the best of the easter weekend and the best of the season.
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Great weather today. I kicked junior out of bed at 8am and we headed up to Chamrousse (or Champroute as most of the local kids call it). We took a whole domain ski pass rather than just the Roche Be beginners area. For us this meant riding the Berangere and Bachat Bouloud lifts which Junior hadn't done before.



Roche Be.

If anyone had booked the 99 euro appts advertised for this week (that was for a pad sleeping 4 in the Arselle domain incl. lift pass!!!) you would have had some of the best conditions of the season. The pistes were in fantastic condition, best skiing was before 1pm as the snow got sticky in the afternoon. Make sure your skis are well waxed and get out of bed early to sun bathe in the afternoon.


le Totem

We skied the Coqs, Ours and Berangere slopes. Great runs if your kid is 1ere etoile level. We also did the Ourson red, it is more of a blue but there is a short section of steep moguls you can bypass by a fork on the left. Too steep for junior.

We ate on the pistes at la Malmute which is on Perche piste by the snowpark (so you can watch the snowparkers from the terrace). Another restaurant that has transformed into a self service this season. The food was great. Junior had a nice salad vert and I had a steak hache - a real butcher's steak hache not one of your out of a packet deep frozen bits of rubbish. With drinks and bread were ate for about 20 euros.

At lunch Junior asked if one of our neighbours kids could ski (he is special needs).

"erm no I don't think so" I replied, "he's too stupid to learn".

Junior thought about this

"maybe he could try snowboarding then?"

Truth falls out of the lips of bairns... as they say. Personally I couldn't possibly comment.

Info on the Bachat Bouloud development: http://pistehors.com/news/ski/comments/0639-chamrousse-bachat-bouloud/


Last edited by snowHeads are a friendly bunch. on Sat 10-04-10 19:29; edited 1 time in total
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Off piste the fresh snow from last week has almost transformed to corn



but there are a lot of purges on steep slopes which need to melt and smooth out before you can ski everywhere. Some steep couloirs are no longer in condition.
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This is turning into a One Man Thread at the moment. I guess even snowheads have run out of steam in the season that never ends.

Anyway fresh snow down to 1100 meters today. Pistes are looking good on the resorts that are still open. Junior is demanding to go skiing tomorrow morning. Will keep you posted.
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davidof, hey I'm reading every installment and finding it really interesting and a good bit of stoke.
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davidof, I enjoy reading it too - but I can't contribute!
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davidof wrote:
This is turning into a One Man Thread at the moment. I guess even snowheads have run out of steam in the season that never ends.

Anyway fresh snow down to 1100 meters today. Pistes are looking good on the resorts that are still open. Junior is demanding to go skiing tomorrow morning. Will keep you posted.


I frequently feel the same about the LDA thread! I read this though, so thanks for posting. Very Happy
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davidof,
I have followed every instalment with interest too. Our regular domain is Alpe d'Huez but have tried, time and money permitting, to visit some of the smaller resorts around about Grenoble. Lans en Vercors I found to be a real friendly "daytrip" station with stunning views over Grenoble from the top of the ski area and some good little "off Piste" through the trees for the kids. Only half an hour from the airport too. The Vercors is a fascinating place anyway because the plateau, I believe it's the largest plateau in Europe ?, gives it a sort of other world feeling after driving up under those overhanging rocks. You do get a bit sore from the long draglifts though. Alpe du Grand Serre, and I may regret broadcasting this, is a great place to shoot off to when Alpe d'Huez is suffering from wind problems because generally the lower lifts in Alpe du Grand Serre will be open whatever and sometimes the upper area is unaffected as well, depending on the wind direction. The good thing with Alpe du Grand Serre is that your Alpe d'Huez pass is totally interchangeable so it only costs petrol to get there and in the week, out of holidays, it is pretty deserted apart from the occasional school trip on sports day. I have always thought it a shame that they disconnected, St. Honore (The ghost station) because the views from those appartments, some of which are finished and some abandoned is fantastic.
I hope I have got all this somewhere near right Davidof because I suspect my knowledge of the area is infintessimal compared to yours.
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davidof, I love this thread. Sorry not to have said so before.
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davidof, easiski, I read, appreciate (and occasionally post in) both threads, but not being in the area this winter limits what I can say.
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Hey guys -- A brilliant thread Davidoff - the first thread I read when i log on -- i haven't posted in a while as we've been travelling a bit (oh, and working Sad --
but we did the Vallee Blanche a couple of days ago: fantastic (but not an isere trip of course for the thread). i am working in geneve at the moment but back down to grenoble tomorrow. hoping to get out to chamrousse for a last bash later in the week as, according to meteo france, it was snowing today and will continue tomorrow. what luck! what a crazy season it has been for snow! great beginning, dodgy mid season and then this unexpected finale. Will report back. Chamrousse is supposed to close on April 18th, but I wonder if they can keep it open a little longer --- maybe not though, as I suspect that the pisteurs and other staff have contracts that specify the end date -- were they really offering appartments for 99 euro?? i did manage to get to Chamrousse last friday. Skiied from 11am till 1.30 pm or so -- gave up after that as the slush was too bad, and I hadn't waxed my skiis (a must in the soupe!) -- but hoping for better conditions with the fresh snow and colder temps ---- nice Happy
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With the missus up in Paris for a few days work the boys decided to head out early. Out of the two local small resorts still operating the choice was les 7 Laux or Chamrousse. Well les 7 laux doesn't seem to have much for the younger skiers so Chamrousse it was. There was snow on the road from 1000m, about 20cm had fallen over the last 36 hours (more in the Devoluy range). The other good thing about Chamrousse is that the free lift pass for kiddies break is at 6 years not 5. When you think most 6 year olds will only ski 3 hours or so that seems fair to me.

We started skiing a bit after 10am. A lot of cloud bubbling around but it was generally sunny with fresh powder on a lot of pistes. Great skiing both on and off piste (junior pretty much stuck to pistes and wasn't very keen on the powder - but when you weight 22kg and are 118cm tall it must be like knee deep powder to you and me). Much better conditions than Saturday as it stayed cooler and so non of the sticky snow although the off piste powder got heavy by the afternoon on the south facing slopes.

I took some photos but don't have time to post them at the moment. The none stop SNCF strike means my commute to Geneva is very compicated at the moment.

Anway a great finale to the season. I noticed a lot of brits in the resort. Crystal operate the place but not sure if they would risk running so late.
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Quote:

Anway a great finale to the season.

Glad it went well; a nice last minute burst of snow! snowHead
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davidof - Can you beat this? I left Geneve yesterday hoping to get the 16.24 direct train to Grenoble (cancelled). Caught another RER train to Culox. Lost concentration, instead then of going the Chambery for the Grenoble connection, I ended up going in the wrong direction towards Ambelieu. Got off there, had to catch a connection to Lyon. Waited for over 3 hrs for a train to Grenoble. Finally got back to Ille Verte, Grenoble at 23.55. 7 1/2 hrs from Geneve to Grenoble. J'en avais marre! Putain de Greve.
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CharlieL wrote:
davidof - Can you beat this? I left Geneve yesterday hoping to get the 16.24 direct train to Grenoble (cancelled). Caught another RER train to Culox. Lost concentration, instead then of going the Chambery for the Grenoble connection, I ended up going in the wrong direction towards Ambelieu. Got off there, had to catch a connection to Lyon. Waited for over 3 hrs for a train to Grenoble. Finally got back to Ille Verte, Grenoble at 23.55. 7 1/2 hrs from Geneve to Grenoble. J'en avais marre! Putain de Greve.


I'm amazed you had a plan, I've checked the SNCF website and couldn't see any reasonable way of doing Grenoble -> Geneve. Instead I'm taking the car. 1h20 from Crolles to Geneva center. 1h40 on the way back but I went via Cruseilles because the Liane is so damn expensive and I don't even get a 25% discount with my telepeage. Would have been 1h35 but the telepeage at Crolles was broken (or on strike).
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CharlieL, davidof, quel cauchemar! How long is this strike due to continue? (Some people are supposed to be going to the EoSB by train, I think...)
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