 Poster: A snowHead
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they topped up the screen wash
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annoys me when they do that and charge a premium price. Not that I've got a BMW. When I remember I top it up myself before taking it in for a service.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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| achilles wrote: |
| Thanks. Ordered. |
Ditto ... (  the Amazon algorithms trying to compute the sudden spike in Gummi Pflege sales.)
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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| BergenBergen wrote: |
| LaForet wrote: |
| If you have a BMW be aware that certain models are notorious for 'gunking'-up of the screen washer system if you mix solutions using BMW concentrate and 3rd.-party concentrates. |
I never had a problem with third party screen wash until the car went to BMW for a service and they topped up the screen wash.  |
Yup, that's par for the course (for the models involved). If you are lucky, you pretty much empty any BMW screenwash solution in summer and fill with water or very dilute concentrate then use 3rd-party stuff consistently and you're fine. Until you take it into a dealer for a service, where they top-up with the BMW mix and you get a gunkfest.
To be fair, this is a generic problem i.e. the BMW is a certain type of concentrate and there are others that are similar. Mix one of these with an incompatible type and it can cause problems if you have a particular screen wash system design. And as I said, BMW concentrate in 5L bottles is only 80p~£1/month more expensive than cheap stuff. But it would be useful if dealers told you - if applicable, it will say something in your Owners Manual, but a lot of people aren't going to read through it in detail and pick this up. And even if they do, tend to think it's just a sales ploy, which unfortunately it isn't.
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Timely advice from the AA on the Beeb website.
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What's the best way to de-ice your car?
Marita Moloney, BBC News Live reporter writes:
Many of us will be waking up to frozen landscapes - and the need to de-ice our cars.
But it's not just a matter of pouring hot water on the windscreen and driving off.
In fact, this is exactly what you shouldn't do. Pouring hot or boiling water on a frozen windscreen can crack the glass, or quickly freeze again on the screen.
Instead, the AA says you should turn on your car - ensuring the wipers are off to avoid damage - and then turn on the warm air blower on the windscreen.
You should also turn on your rear windscreen heater, plus the air con to ensure your windows don't fog up.
The next step is to clear any snow with a soft brush, before moving on to using a scraper and de-icer on the car.
The AA also advises motorists to steer clear of any hacks they might have heard of - including using half a potato on the inside windows to stop them steaming up. |
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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| LaForet wrote: |
| BergenBergen wrote: |
| LaForet wrote: |
| If you have a BMW be aware that certain models are notorious for 'gunking'-up of the screen washer system if you mix solutions using BMW concentrate and 3rd.-party concentrates. |
I never had a problem with third party screen wash until the car went to BMW for a service and they topped up the screen wash. |
Yup, that's par for the course (for the models involved). If you are lucky, you pretty much empty any BMW screenwash solution in summer and fill with water or very dilute concentrate then use 3rd-party stuff consistently and you're fine. Until you take it into a dealer for a service, where they top-up with the BMW mix and you get a gunkfest.
To be fair, this is a generic problem i.e. the BMW is a certain type of concentrate and there are others that are similar. Mix one of these with an incompatible type and it can cause problems if you have a particular screen wash system design. And as I said, BMW concentrate in 5L bottles is only 80p~£1/month more expensive than cheap stuff. But it would be useful if dealers told you - if applicable, it will say something in your Owners Manual, but a lot of people aren't going to read through it in detail and pick this up. And even if they do, tend to think it's just a sales ploy, which unfortunately it isn't. |
I't not just BMW screenwash that's the problem. I've had the contents of the washer bottle turn to a blue gel when mixing "cheap" supermartket type screen washes.
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| musher wrote: |
Timely advice from the AA on the Beeb website.
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| You should also turn on the air con to ensure your windows don't fog up. |
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 I assume Mr AA man has never done a ski season. Turning the AC on below freezing will create more condensation, not less. Handbooks usually advise not to use AC below +4c though it depends a bit on the car.
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Well spotted, just straight product at decent price without paying for the bullsh*te
This is the silicone greaes I've used https://pvcbuildingsupplies.com/products/sg100 so far the little pot has lasted 8 years and only just getting to the end. I use it very sparingly when needed but very effective.
Unusual connection, but quite a few skiing are involved in mtb........ used on tyre beads (as above, used exceedingly sparsely ) applied topically to tyre bead it facilities the tyre popping onto the rim when inflating, that's tubed, tubeless or any iteration you can think of, and makes fitting the tyre easy. As it's water resistant and non corrosive to alloy it keeps the rim in good condition too without the corrosive effects of some soaps used to try and do this.
As mentioned........exceedingly sparse.....in application, so that you can just see the surface reflect......absolutely no surplus.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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| musher wrote: |
I't not just BMW screenwash that's the problem. I've had the contents of the washer bottle turn to a blue gel when mixing "cheap" supermartket type screen washes. |
I didn't know that you could still buy concentrates, are they still common in the UK? For at least the last 20 years I've just bought 5 litre bottles of premixed stuff from French supermarkets (or the odd Swiss service station in an emergency). Usually go for the -25 own-brand type, at 5 or 6 euros, rather than the -30 which is often only available in the three-time-the price premium brands.
TBH though once it's really properly cold I very rarely use the screen washers anyway. On motorways when it's dirty, salty and just below freezing is where they're most needed, so the ultra-low temp stuff isn't really needed, IMO.
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Make sure that you turn your windscreen wipers off, even if you have automatic wipers. Modern cars likely to leave half the wiper rubber stuck to the screen, older cars burn out the wiper motor as my brother discovered a few years ago.
Don't leave fabric or paper to cover the windscreen. Bit of moisture and this can stick a treat as one of my neighbours discovered before Christmas
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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I’m sure he could get it off easily with a kettle of freshly boiled water.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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| Orange200 wrote: |
| I’m sure he could get it off easily with a kettle of freshly boiled water. |
That would solve it, after all you'd get a nice new windscreen 
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| denfinella wrote: |
@T Bar, good point, hadn't thought of that. Thanks.
Thanks for all the replies. Lots of useful info. Re. leaving windscreen wipers up - is that just if snow is forecast, or for cold (dry) weather too?
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I would’ve thought all modern cars auto park wipers if engine is turned off mid wiper stroke.
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You know it makes sense.
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I don't think mine does and it's a useful reminder. As for frozen windscreens, apart from the unwisdom of pouring a kettle of boiling water over a frozen windscreen, such a thing is not necessarily to hand when you have hiked down several flights of stairs, down snow-ridden steps and across an icy car park, holding a 5 year old by the hand and carrying her skis.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Most won't if you switch off the engine.
Its not just the park though, leave the switch (automated or ordinary operation) in the ON position, then even before you try to start, the power initiation will immediately send the wipers.
For those that have wipers that park down behind bonnet rear edge (that's if you want to move them) there's a service PARK position often accessible as follows....with engine running, run wiper, turn off wiper, turn off engine, then activate single wipe via stalk, it should bring wipers up into furthest travel and stop there. Enables service tech to change blades etc with easy accessibility. They should stay there even when you restart, but go back to park by deliberately activating wipe mode when you require the reset.
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Poster: A snowHead
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So, if I''m leaving a car out in sub-zero weather, that's when I use my summer sunshade/winter frost-protector sheet on the windscreen. They only cost a few quid and sit on the outside of the windscreen, with the ends tucked inside the doors. No one's going to steal it because to do that means cutting it free, which would render it useless. If is frost with no snow, it tucks under the wipers. In the mountains, i put it lower down, covering the wipers and the intake gap at the top of the bonnet. Then when snow falls, it's easy to brush it off with my telescopic snow brush, again pretty cheap from Amazon. In the summer, it's better than an internal sunshade, because the glass of the windscreen doesn't heat up.
Last edited by Poster: A snowHead on Tue 17-01-23 19:42; edited 1 time in total
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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I've never bothered with one of those, but it does sound quite a good idea!
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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as experienced this morning! Make sure door rubbers seals are coated with silicon or vaseline otherwise with freeze thaw during the day night the door wont open - strangely it was only the rear doors! A good spray with the de-icer can soon solved the problem.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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That's happened to me, but only on the windward doors. Always worth trying the other side.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Good points @LaForet, with of course the cabin clean air entrance to plenum chamber usually sited there too, it helps with ventilation and demister function if kept clear.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
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Happened to me this morning - in Central London! 
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Back in the day I ran a Mk 1 Golf diesel and in winter in a low level resort in Italy I used to put 10% petrol in when filling up. Petrol first, then diesel. In less salubrious places such as behind the Iron Curtain it was 20% petrol.
Later on I ran a Citroen and even in Livigno in winter 10% petrol was sufficient - but on one occasion I did have to leave it with the bonnet open, in the sun, for an hour or so.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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@Nemisis, I think you'll find many modern cars are a little more sophisticated and don't respond well to such handling.
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The advice to manufacture rescue services xxxxassist etc (effectively manufacturer advice) in diesel vehicle misfuelling cases, someone has put petrol in to diesel tank, is generally to accept up to 35% dilution with petrol. Action is to run and keep topping off with diesel to bring balance back into range. Significantly further dilution is to drain tank and refill with diesel to establish balance. They'll burn most things without detriment, limits are more lubrication of fuel pump that petrol diminishes.
Routine before proprietary products for HGV to dose with 10% during winter.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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Fantastic thread! I see the old myth about boiling water cracking screens has made it here too. I can say categorically, with nearly 30 years of pouring boiling (or at least very hot) water over frozen screens, side windows, door mirrors and light lenses, not one has ever cracked. And when you think about it, why would they? Most of the heat energy from the water is going into melting the ice. It's also much quicker than any other method and is the most environmentally-friendly way to do it. Running your engine for ages until it warms sufficiently to produce hot enough air inside the car to melt external ice, or pouring horrible chemicals on your glass which then end up in the environment surely can't be better? On really cold days I squeegee the glass dry after or it might refreeze as you drive along.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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@under a new name, Indeed, that's why I said "back in the day". However, ten years ago, a colleague filled a diesel Trafic with petrol (it had been about quarter full), rang me in panic and my response was drive back to resort, but at the bottom of the hill brim it with diesel. That worked!
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@LaForet,
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So, if I''m leaving a car out in sub-zero weather, that's when I use my summer sunshade/winter frost-protector sheet on the windscreen. They only cost a few quid and sit on the outside of the windscreen, with the ends tucked inside the doors. No one's going to steal it because to do that means cutting it free, which would render it useless. If is frost with no snow, it tucks under the wipers. In the mountains, i put it lower down, covering the wipers and the intake gap at the top of the bonnet. Then when snow falls, it's easy to brush it off with my telescopic snow brush, again pretty cheap from Amazon
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We have one of those, works really well, just need to make sure it's put on dry - we won't use it if the screen is wet/slushy parking up, as you don't want it to freeze to the screen.@boredsurfin,
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Make sure door rubbers seals are coated with silicon or vaseline otherwise with freeze thaw during the day night the door wont open
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I bought a can of silicone spray many years ago - I find just one treatment when cleaning the car in the autumn lasts all year, so it's really cheap, and keeps the rubber seals looking nice as well.
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You know it makes sense.
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Got so cold in London yesterday our car doors froze shut, so took a while getting in and then getting the ice off the INSIDE of the windows before we could drive off. I cant recall either happening here before. Will read the tips above now.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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| Nemisis wrote: |
| @under a new name, Indeed, that's why I said "back in the day". However, ten years ago, a colleague filled a diesel Trafic with petrol (it had been about quarter full), rang me in panic and my response was drive back to resort, but at the bottom of the hill brim it with diesel. That worked! |
For those caught like this, you can use two stroke oil as addative to help prevent damage to fuel pump while the petrol is circulating. Motor factors or diy store for convenient supplies as garden machinery section usually stock it. Itll all burn ok.
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Poster: A snowHead
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| ster wrote: |
| Got so cold in London yesterday our car doors froze shut, so took a while getting in and then getting the ice off the INSIDE of the windows before we could drive off. I cant recall either happening here before. Will read the tips above now. |
Yes, pretty cold again today.
As RobinS arranged, I dont specifically prep for winter but fit these steps in as routine when it's nicer weather as ongoing maintenance. The silicone is just very effective at preventing water holding anywhere to later freeze and cause a problem.
It's hardly any amount used but thorough in application.
Had to go out this morning at 7.00am and nothing frozen at all, everything working perfectly.
I usually maintain and clean with the optimistic notion that I could literally jump in at any point and drive to the Alps for a trip without having to do anything other than add fuel  well at least it works as motivation for me to keep it prepared with the feeling of next ski trip in mind.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Quick question, as my knowledge of modern diesels is limited: Are all of these diesel 'hacks' actually still safe? The reason I ask is that old diesel injection systems were incredibly robust and tolerant, were relatively simple, and could be adjusted and repaired with common tools. Back in the day I happily ran my old Range Rover (300 TDi) off of waste vegetable oil without a hiccup, (and it smelt nice too). I honestly think that it would have run off of peanut butter or custard if I could have got it into the tank in sufficient quantities. However modern diesel fuel systems are complicated, have extra emission control features, run incredibly fine tolerances, crazy high fuel pressures and are also extremely expensive to fix if they go wrong. So I'd be curious to know if anyone has run petrol/2 stroke oil etc mixed into the fuel of their modern diesel without any issues.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@greengriff, The Renaul Trafic that I talked about survived the rest of the winter - it was leased, so I don't know (and the company didn't care!) about after it was returned.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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| Nemisis wrote: |
| @greengriff, The Renaul Trafic that I talked about survived the rest of the winter - it was leased, so I don't know (and the company didn't care!) about after it was returned. |
Fair enough. They are clearly not instantly fatal then!
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Electric parking brake. Last few trips to the Alps we have had traditional parking/handbrake on our car. Just bought a Seat Tarraco 4 drive, that no matter what I do always puts the handbrake on automatically. From experience I know not to leave it on in resort as they can freeze on. Planning to drive to Alps next season, so does anyone know how you stop it engaging. And no it's not in the handbook. Thanks all in advance.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
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Probably a more complex answer @greengriff, from me.
Those system Tdi, VW PD et all were effective but limited in that they being related to engine crankshaft position via mechanical/electronic pumps couldn't ultimately give the fine control needed to further improve emmisions etc. Especially when demand for more asymmetric mapping in variable extents is the demand. Effective non the less, with pretty chunky workman like torque output being a feature.
The move toward common rail (one very high pressure supply pipe feeding all injectors) with very high control regulation via more capable ecu capacity and effect monitoring is where they are now. Funnily the sophistication is more on the dispensing and monitoring side much more than the real distribution of fuel. The marketing wants us to believe it's all so sophisticated (until they got caught with their trousers down on emmisions) but in my understanding it's just the pump that's at risk if lubrication from the fuel breaks down. The lubrication in reality is a little unknown as sulphur (now reduced in formulation of available diesel) was routinely used in this capacity (it's abilities under v-high pressure of metal to metal components is considerable) with newer high pressure pumps being material specified to cope with this reduced level sulphur content.
It could be viewed that they are actually more resistant in terms of pumping durability.
The control side of it (facilitated by improved resolution of injector head, control function) has many sides to it. Now essentially more dynamic profiles in fuel demand can be accomplished as error rate in old system had to be aggregated to stay away from unwanted consequences.
Primarily, now looking at control of combustion and combustion temperatures allows them to run close to the knuckle as it can, through monitoring, recognise serious compromise in this area and have appropriate intervention to mitigate and avoid combustion failures.
The turbo boost is more finitely controlled to bring higher pressure in at lowered speed but easily mitigate should it exceed specified limits. Rather than wastgate (blowing excess out through a port) the hot side has variable vains that can be orientated a little like a camera aperture arrangements (although vertical blades rather than flat for optics) that instantly trims rotor speed on denand from ecu, but again an asymetry can be brought to give dynamic shift rather than simple blanket overall strategy.
The upshot is really all about control within tighter constraints, to which they add post combustion exhaust gas treatment with add blue etc.
I've not experienced running alternate fuels in modern systems so can't rely any hard facts about it.
Your comments about peanut butter are relevant in a funny way as originally diesel cycle research i thought was completed on peanut oil , by Dr Rudolf Diesel, and so wears his name rather than "Peanut engine"
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| ski3 wrote: |
Probably a more complex answer @greengriff, from me.
Those system Tdi, VW PD et all were effective but limited in that they being related to engine crankshaft position via mechanical/electronic pumps couldn't ultimately give the fine control needed to further improve emmisions etc. Especially when demand for more asymmetric mapping in variable extents is the demand. Effective non the less, with pretty chunky workman like torque output being a feature.
The move toward common rail (one very high pressure supply pipe feeding all injectors) with very high control regulation via more capable ecu capacity and effect monitoring is where they are now. Funnily the sophistication is more on the dispensing and monitoring side much more than the real distribution of fuel. The marketing wants us to believe it's all so sophisticated (until they got caught with their trousers down on emmisions) but in my understanding it's just the pump that's at risk if lubrication from the fuel breaks down. The lubrication in reality is a little unknown as sulphur (now reduced in formulation of available diesel) was routinely used in this capacity (it's abilities under v-high pressure of metal to metal components is considerable) with newer high pressure pumps being material specified to cope with this reduced level sulphur content.
It could be viewed that they are actually more resistant in terms of pumping durability.
The control side of it (facilitated by improved resolution of injector head, control function) has many sides to it. Now essentially more dynamic profiles in fuel demand can be accomplished as error rate in old system had to be aggregated to stay away from unwanted consequences.
Primarily, now looking at control of combustion and combustion temperatures allows them to run close to the knuckle as it can, through monitoring, recognise serious compromise in this area and have appropriate intervention to mitigate and avoid combustion failures.
The turbo boost is more finitely controlled to bring higher pressure in at lowered speed but easily mitigate should it exceed specified limits. Rather than wastgate (blowing excess out through a port) the hot side has variable vains that can be orientated a little like a camera aperture arrangements (although vertical blades rather than flat for optics) that instantly trims rotor speed on denand from ecu, but again an asymetry can be brought to give dynamic shift rather than simple blanket overall strategy.
The upshot is really all about control within tighter constraints, to which they add post combustion exhaust gas treatment with add blue etc.
I've not experienced running alternate fuels in modern systems so can't rely any hard facts about it.
Your comments about peanut butter are relevant in a funny way as originally diesel cycle research i thought was completed on peanut oil , by Dr Rudolf Diesel, and so wears his name rather than "Peanut engine" |
That is an awesome reply, thank you. I appreciate you taking the time to write it up.
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| Timbobaggins wrote: |
| Electric parking brake. Last few trips to the Alps we have had traditional parking/handbrake on our car. Just bought a Seat Tarraco 4 drive, that no matter what I do always puts the handbrake on automatically. From experience I know not to leave it on in resort as they can freeze on. Planning to drive to Alps next season, so does anyone know how you stop it engaging. And no it's not in the handbook. Thanks all in advance. |
I don't know tge answer to that particular question.
To exoand though, its likely this installation won't suffer the same as old exposed cable system (some were very open and) vulnerable ) as they use a motor in varios placement and may be more concealed/resistance to snow slush ingress.
The other part is pads sticking to disc when left squeezed, especially when doused with salty water to give very effectively an electrolytic corrosion that really can bond them well.
I don't know a practical solution, but you could drive the last mile or so with gentle pressure on brake pedal (left foot but only gently) to get them as dry as possible to reduce effects like this. Depends if you feel its particularly vulnerable in your circumstances.
Note, parking in a garage won't help this aspect, they'll still stick with corrosion if salty when parked.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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@Timbobaggins, My experience of parking brakes freezing on is that it only happens to certain vehicles, and the ones it happens to, it can happen in UK temperatures, so if you haven't had a problem in recent cold spells, you will probably be OK in the Alps.
I first had a handbrake freeze on, in an old Kia Sedona, parked at sea level in Kinlochleven, Scotland. That time I called out breakdown, and he showed me how to free it. That stood me in good stead for the next time, about ten years later, a Renault Traffic where I freed it myself. That winter in the Alps I carried four wooden chocks around with me all the time, as the handbrake would freeze at the slightest excuse. Our own car parked next to it we used the handbrake normally without issue, in fact other than the Kia, and several Traffics I have always just used the handbrake or electronic parking brake normally with no issues.
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I’ve never had car doors frozen due to the rubber sticking.
Though I had door locks frozen shut with ice so the key couldn’t reach it. But these days, with keyless entry, that’s not an issue any more.
But, I live in much colder places than London. So perhaps that’s more a problem in certain temperature range. Or rather, a certain humidity range?
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FAQ
