Zermatt and Cervinia 2022-2023

A snowHead

Having a great time this week - can someone recommend some slopes for learning to carve? Thanks

Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?

I’m only on my second trip to Zermatt so not a lot of time here, but from what I’ve seen I’d suggest skiing off the Furggsattel lift. Pistes 71 and 72 are straight, wide runs with a pitch perfect for practicing carving. Piste 72 is a little steeper than 71 but both flatten out towards the bottom. Get there early before bumps form. And keep your speed up on the runout though as there’s an uphill section at the end of the run.

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Hey guys

Going to Cervinia/Zermatt on Sunday for the first time and staying in Cervinia

I have been following the situation on the app (Cervino Ski) and it seems only 55/140 slopes are open and 25/56 lifts is this because of the snow that fell recently ?

I guess this should mean they need a few days to sort out the situation ? And that by Sunday we will be arriving to a nice treat, having freshly prepared slopes from the new snow that has fallen ? Or is there some other reason that there are so many slopes closed ? (Wind ?)

I know the link with Zermatt has been closed almost everyday I've checked since it's been windy, is the route through Theodul pass usually open when it is windy and could we get to Zermatt that way ? And then back on the T-Bar lifts ?

Thanks !!

Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.

If the links are closed then the apps will only show open lifts/slopes on that side. So it could be that loads is open on the other side. Check both Zermatt and Cervinia apps

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@Whitters, Oh no, so I guess there's no way back if you are on the otherside and it the weather turns and they close the connection ?

After all it is free

That’s why they are cautious about opening the links if there is any chance of them closing. You do need to watch the times of the last lifts back depending where you see - and they are posted at all the lift stations.

The only way back from Zermatt side now is the KM gondola. But it has much more capacity and is more wind proof than the old cable car

Last Easter the top (shorter) of the two T-bars was still running. I think to give a way from Theodulepass to Plateau Rosa without having to ski all the way down to Trockner Steg and lift back up

Hmm yeah I saw on one of the webcams that there still seems to be at least some kind of T-bar lift at the top but not sure what it connects to as I've never been

Weather seems to have cleared up now, hopefully not tooo much sun as it will melt all the fresh snow Sad

But at least seems like the link to Zermatt will be open Very Happy

Thanks for your help !

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I hope the link will be open too, @Jimbo94, as I'm off to Zermatt for 5 nights from Sunday and will be hoping to get across to Cervinia & Valtournenche on each of my 4 days on the slopes, seeing as the link opened only very briefly on my previous visit there.

Will endeavour to report on the conditions from the Swiss side, if you can do so from the Italian side?!

I'll be boarding alone, but more than happy to meet up with others (skiers or boarders) in a similar situation.

Oh and while I think of it: the itineraries on the Swiss side? Are these serious off-piste areas that should only be attempted with all the associated avi gear (and potentially a buddy) or are they just non-pisted areas for the slightly more adventurous?

I'm assuming the former, but always happy to be proven wrong

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@jebroni3_16, A mate of mine is already there and said conditions are great on the Italian side, also no wind forecasted so far (but that can change quickly) so links should be open everyday hopefully

We are arriving on Sunday and also have 4 days and I was hoping to be able to go over to Zermatt everyday so seems we are in opposite sides of the same situation Very Happy

We can keep each other updated for sure !

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@Jimbo94, yes unfortunately that’s the only way back now, although it was open every day when I was there in February

Just keep an eye on the weather and you’ll be fine

The drags at the top are only open in the summer I think

Glorious day yesterday. Bright blue sky, pristine pistes in Zermatt (not sure whether they actually got the 5" of fresh snow I saw reported on Snow Forecast, but they were soft all the same) but still headed for Italy and Valtournenche.

Was already pretty slushy by midday, but suited my surfy boarder mood. Might not have been to everyone's liking though.

Actually spent an hour lapping the area between the pistes off Bec Carré chair lift. There were a reasonable number of tracks there already, and pitch was very gentle, so don't think I was in any great danger... although someone may well be along in a moment to tell me why nobody else was doing the same Puzzled

Made the mistake of turning to Zermatt via Stafelalp piste though. The exact run that I was adamant I should avoid. Glorious view of the magnificent Matterhorn from the piste in the way down to there, but should have taken Stafelalp lift back up and come down a different way.

Off to Cervinia today, all being well Smile

You know it makes sense.

Managed to find answers to both of my own questions:

1 - It is possible to get from both sides to the other via Theodulpass, despite what liftie in Cervinia told me yesterday. Did it in both directions today on a board with minimal uphill coming from Zermatt and one short, fun, pretty steep and narrow section from Cervino.

2 - When open, the itineraries are considered as in-bounds. When closed, they're considered off-piste with all that entails as regards rescue and insurance etc and none of them seem to be officially open at the moment.

Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:

A snowHead

Can't help with your question, @GottaCatchEmAll, as I didn't make it down there yesterday, despite intending to. Sorry!

Was another glorious day though, with my replacement rental snowboard boots holding up much better than my now useless 15 day old ones.

I also made a last minute decision to head back up the Gornergrat after the pistes closed for sunset yesterday.

On my way up there, I discovered there was a pedestrian route from Rotenboden to Riffelberg, so on the way back down, I got off the train at the former and spent a leisurely 45 minutes walking between the deserted pistes to the latter, enjoying the silence and the views (and spotting some very interesting off-piste sections). So much so, that I'll probably do it again this evening... and possibly explore those off-piste bits during the day!

I'll probably go up Sunegga today, as I haven't been there at all yet this week. But I really need to get in the shower first.

A snowHead

Well, I guess yesterday reminded me what a difference an hour and a few hundred vertical metres can make, never mind a day!

Started the day trying to stay high on the Sunegga side, because of freeze-thaw conditions above around 2500m.

Slight haze which I thought would keep the edge off the sun and temperatures down, but I think it must have actually done the opposite as it was even slushier even earlier than before.

Headed across to Gornergrat in early afternoon, where I experienced the slowest snow I've ever been on. Even my board, waxed suitably for really wet stuff didn't help.

Could see it was starting to close in over the border to Italy and Matterhorn, so headed up high on the chair above Furgggletscher just before the lift closed at 3.30 and by the time I reached the top, the visibility was almost zero.

Hadn't been up there before, but stayed close to the rope on the right-hand side (but not too close as it was pretty windy) until the entrance to the park appeared.

Made it into there and over a few boxes, and only once almost ended up going over a kicker I didn't see coming!

Visibility improved slightly by the time I left the park and was then able to board all the way down to Furgg for the long gondola back to town.

From my hotel this morning, visibility up high is looking pretty poor and if it's anything like it was late yesterday, maybe I'm leaving at the right time after all.

Apologies for turning the thread into a Trip Report somewhat. I'll vacate it now and leave it to those better informed to return it to its intended purpose.

Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?

Rothorn, Gornergrat and Trockener Steg all look clear on the webcams on TV. Glacier "Paradise" looking like an oxymoron.

Think it might be a good job I stopped two young American boarders heading over to Italy "for some pasta" just after 3pm yesterday.

They assumed they'd be able to get a train back or jump in a taxi if they missed the last lift. Were amazed that the former wasn't an option, but were still considering it and finding accommodation over there until I pointed out the possibility that the link back might not be open today.

Really shutting up now...

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thanks for the updates. its good to read.

Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.

Heading to Cervinia on Tuesday and have couple questions:
1. where is the best place to park?
2. I'll be teaching my son snowboarding so we may stay on a blue learning slope, am I right the beginner ski pass is a good option for us at least for 1st day?
3. Any recommendation for snowboard instructors?
4. How long does it take from Cervinia to Swiss (assuming links work) and is it worth going there just for fun?

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First timer here looking for some info. I'm considering heading to Cervinia in a week or two and I'm curious about the whole 'getting stuck on the wrong side' thing. Does the Glacier Paradise gondola run normally even if the Plateau Rosa connection is closed? I've seen recently the connection was closed according the site, but the Glacier Paradise was running, meaning you can still ski back to Cervinia, right? And as another poster pointed out, you can still get to the Zermatt side using the Theodulpass lift if Plateau Rosa isn't running.

Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...

@Satchboogie, This is a much discussed topic on here but a non-issue in the resort. The only people who ever get caught on the “wrong” side are those who miss the last lift back.

They do not open the link if the conditions are bad or, even if morning conditions are good, they think that the conditions will deteriorate later in the day.

If they let you over they will absolutely make sure they get you back across if you get to the lift at the time they state as “last lift back” - and even then they are pretty generous. They do sometimes ask you to head back earlier. Keep an eye on the electronic displays at the gates of each ski lift. But even then they will get you back.

From Zermatt back to Cervinia that means going up to Klein Matterhorn (Glacier Paradise) and skiing down from there. That new lift keeps running in some horrendous conditions - the old one was more problematic so they had a back up drag lift (now dismantled).

From Cervinia to Zermatt you can still either come back via Plateau Rosa or Theodulpass. The latter might not be accessible because the lift from Plan Maison to Laghi Chime Bianche can close in high winds. But all that means is you need to take the chair lifts up to Theodulpass. I have not been through that since they put in place the temporary fix following the collapse of the path there. But it will get you back.

I don’t even think about it when I am over in Cervinia. As a newbie, have a plan as to how you are going to return and what time you need to head off from wherever you are skiing to make the last lift across.

After all it is free

After getting off the chairlift on Theodulpass, ski right towards the hut. You'll see a roped section next to it saying that it's closed. You'll be forced to turn around and continue down the slope. After panicking for a few seconds, look downhill on your left. You'll immediately see orange webbing with a sign that says Zermatt just a tad down the slope on your left. It will take you on a narrow, almost flat path wrapping around the hill. You'll end up between Plateau Rosa and Theodulpass, where you can continue down back to Swiss side. From there, you traverse across the horrendous flat and uphill to Trockener Steg.

Hey Guys,

I'm a PdS season pass holder. Out in the Alps for a 9 x day trip from Good Friday. 1st stop is Prodains under Avoriaz to grab my ski gear, probably Ski Avoriaz Saturday 8th but then we are thinking of spreading out and maybe skiing either the 4 x valleys (with our free 'day passes' from our PdS season pass) or coming through to Cervinia/Zermatt.

Only skied Cervinia/Zermatt once (a few years ago from the Zermatt side) whilst on BASI mountain Safety course in the Autumn and it was a poor Autumn for snow so not seen too much of the area. I'm out with the Mrs and we have a hire car. Looking for some solid piste skiing/cruising. Mrs is a very competent Red run skier and can tackle a black. We are relaxed about end of season skiing and are looking mostly just to have some fun but would like to avoid crowds where we can.

I guess my question is how busy will the Cervinia/Zermatt slopes be Easter Sunday/Easter Monday? And if it is gonna be busy Easter Sunday/Easter Monday will it ease off significantly later that week?

Our plan would be to park at Valtournache and use the gondola from there. Dont mnd down loading later in the day if needed into Valtournenche. Might be staying 30min down the road from Valtournenche gondola.

Any advice appreciated.

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@@247snowman, unusually Easter week this week is Zermatt Unplugged (the music festival). It will be very busy on the Swiss side Tuesday through to Saturday. There will be the usual high numbers of Eater skiers on Sunday/Monday plus those making a week of it for Zermatt Unplugged.

I actually will be out there but if I were an infrequent Zermatt skier this is not the Easter I would choose to be in Zermatt just as a skier.

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@JohnMo,

My guess is that if we based ourself down the road from Valtournenche then the slopes would be busy Easter Sunday/Monday with Italian day trippers.

Great info that the Zermatt side has the Unplugged festival next week too. Thanks.

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@@247snowman, Just be aware that the road up to Valtournenche can be very busy on weekends and the car park at the gondola rapidly fills up. Best to park at the upper car park at the top of the road down to the gondola next to the home run piste, and ski down the last 200 yards to the bottom. Also be aware that the speed limits in the villages can vary from 30kph to 50 kph and enforced by multiple speed/radar cameras working in twos and threes along the road. Enjoy your skiing.

@skimastaaah,

Great stuff thanks for that info.

You know it makes sense.

I just booked an apartment for a week in Valtourneche and I'm now curious about the ticket situation. I'm thinking of spending a night or two in Zermatt as well in the middle, but I read somewhere that you have to start the day on the side you purchased your tickets? Is this true? If I get a Cervino international pass, can I not use it first thing in the morning if I stayed a night in Zermatt? And does it work the other way around (starting in Cervinia with a Zermatt pass)? I was planning to just last minute make a decision based on weather, but now this makes it sound a bit more complicated.

Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:

@Satchboogie, I am afraid that is correct. You must start the ski day from the side you bought the pass. The reason is that Cervinia international passes are quite a bit cheaper than Zermatt ones. So they do not want people buying a Cervinia international pass and then basing themselves in Zermatt. Cervinia doesn’t need this protection but does it to be reciprocal. It is frustrating that they don’t make an exception for one night stopovers.

A snowHead

@JohnMo, thanks for the info.

In that case I'll stick with the Cervinia only pass (the 2 days option at other Aosta resorts looks interesting). Does anyone have recommendations on what other Aosta resorts have good conditions right now? In terms of trails/views, the Monterosa area and Espace San Bernardo look interesting. I read though that snow conditions at San Bernardo aren't good now? I don't know how easy/possible it is park at La Thuile and get over to La Rosiere/the other side in France.

As for getting a single day Zermatt add-on to the pass, do I just get that the morning of in Cervinia/Valtournenche?

Is it common they wait to open the Cervinia/Zermatt connection later in the morning? I checked this morning and Plateau Rosa and Theodulpass were closed but as of now they are open.

Last question: How doable is it to do runs on Gornergrat and Rothhorn and still get the last lift up to Glacier Paradise to get back to Cervinia, assuming Plateau Rosa is open first thing in the morning? I think I'll look at doing 1/2 days adding on Zermatt if the connection is open, maybe stay one night still in Zermatt and just buy a single day ticket to get back.

A snowHead

La thuile to la rosiere easy ski. Assuming wind doesn't close links which I think is unusual

Main factor for you could be distance, don't underestimate size of aosta valley. Monte Rosa close by heli but longer drive. Pila the closest.

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@Satchboogie, from Valtournenche to the valley and the motorway is 30 minutes. Courmayeur is another 40 mins but be aware the motorway toll is 16 euros each way. Courmayeur skiing is looking good at the moment and worth an away day. Earlier this year the road up to La Thuile from Courmayeur side was closed and there was a considerable detour, you would need to check it's open.

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@Satchboogie, assuming you are at least a confident intermediate, skiing from Cervinia over to Rothorn via Gornergrat and back in a day is pretty doable. All three mountains are well connected although I always feel Klein Matterhorn to Rothorn (right to left on the map)is slightly smoother than in the other direction(left to right), mainly because to get back from Rothorn to Gornergrat involves a cable car from Gant up to Hohtalli which can occasionally be a pinch point depending on the time of year. There is one other way back over but a bit more of a faff and takes longer. Still very doable though but you really need a blue sky day with little or no wind to be confident there won’t be any issues with the link.

Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.

Day one in the bag. It was a blue-bird day with zero wind on the Zermatt side. I did cut it too close on my late day run from Klein Matterhorn to Valtournenche. I was expecting the trail/lift down to the village to be closed, so by the time I realized it, it was too late and I just missed the lift up to Cime Bianche. Thankfully I got the bus back up to Cervinia to retrieve my car. That lower trail (1) to Valtournenche was wet mashed potatoes and not fun Eh oh!

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I'm only beginning my journey of skiing in the Alps, but so far I found the red trails on both sides very easy compared to Alp d'Huez. Much gentler slopes and not much for moguls. I don't mind though as I can drool over the views while skiing and not crash Eh oh!

.

It didn't appear that the lifts were running from Hohtalli toward stockhorn? I was curious about those free rides. I think I'll check out Rothorn tomorrow if the weather allows, though having run a bunch of routes in Zermatt during the fall, the best views are up Oberothern, Rothorn is just OK Eh oh!

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3 days done now. Yesterday was an even better blue-bird day with not a cloud in the sky. Today was clear early and then got overcast in the afternoon, but the cloud deck is well above all 4km so still fine views. I ended up adding on Zermatt the last 3 days since, well I really like that side.

I manages just about all the reds on the Zermatt side that were open plus a few blacks, free rides, and the usual blues. No long lines anywhere. Good conditions, it's only a bit mashed potatoes below 2000m-ish and still plenty of snow cover above for some off-piste options. As an intermediate skier just getting back into the swing of it, I didn't find any of the trails, even the blacks, a challenge, but they were really fun!

I think if you really rush it, you could probably get a run or 2 in on each of Rothorn, Gornergrat, Schwarzee, and of course Klein matterhorn/Furggsattel. But if you want to hit most/all of the trails, I think 2 a minimum, realistically 3.

It also seems the Italian side closes much earlier, both the lifts and the slopeside bars/restaurants.

I plan to spend the next 3 days on the Italian side and maybe 1 or 2 of those days at different Aosta resort. Snow here is pretty good, so I'm not sure if anywhere else is worth the drive. Maybe just Cormayeurm

Suisse side pro tip if you are a coffee fan or Pilsner fan: Aroleid restaurant in Furi has the best local roasted coffee and properly poured fresh Pilser Urquell from the traditional Czech side tap (it makes a huge difference!). Probably my new favorite spot in the world for a beer! Eh oh!

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@Satchboogie, never heard that. Had some lovely Pilsner Urquell poured by a Slovak in Switzerland last trip.

FYI I think Courmayeur may now be closed so check before leaving!

After all it is free

@Satchboogie, was in Cervinia / Zermatt back in Feb and can confirm the Italian side closes very early compared to Zermatt and other French/Swiss resorts I've been too.
Also regarding crossing, had a bit of a scare back then as we crossed to Switzerland on a heavy snow day. Conditions got worse and worse during the day with a lot of fog and wind and around 2.30pm the Zermatt app started to say the Zermatt -> Cervinia crossing was closed... Went back to Matterhorn Express where screens were showing the Matterhorn Glacier Ride was open only for passengers by foot. Got to the start of the lift with my mate and a local employee started first telling us it was closed for skiers but when we said we were coming from the Italian side he let us through though he asked to see our ski passes. Mine was an old Zermatt branded card on which I had loaded my international Cervinia pass so it required another discussion to explain the whole setup Very Happy

Thankfully we made it up back to Italy and I could see both the chairlift and gondola were open on the Italian side to let skiers go back to Switzerland as well.
I just wish they had said on the screens international skiers were allowed, would have avoided a stressful ride from Furi to Trockener Steg Laughing

Anyone planning to come out to Italian side in next few weeks will have a great time, not sure what stays open till when but I think it's May when the winter ski area shuts? Still plenty of snow right down to Valtournenche Salette, bit soft in afternoons there but excellent everywhere else. So impressed with their slope maintenance.

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Yes, the snow in Cervinia/Valtournenche (and Monterosa ski) have been great in the morning and in generally above 2000-2200m. As Robertsnerys said, the trails below Plan Torrette/Salette turn into gross wet mashed potatoes. Today was very windy and my first experience with the shutdowns. Conditions were pretty good in the morning with some fresh snow on the trails, though as the wind picked up the trails became very hard snow with lots of random patches of powder. Everything was open around 9:30, but by 12, the entire Cervinia side shutdown. I started Plateau Rosa to Valtournenche and did a few runs in Valtournenche for the morning (great conditions) and made my way down to the bottom of Brueuil - Plan Maison as everything was closing. By the time I got up to Plan Maison, the only thing open was the Pancheron lift (Cretaz was closed so most of the good runs like 24/62 weren't possible), even the gondola from the base up to Plan Maison closed. I saw a lot of people get stuck on the wrong side of Cervinia/Valtournenche, so that is apparently also a possibility. Luckily I was on the Cervinia side, where I was parked, so I just drove down to Valtournenche and spent the afternoon on that side, all the lifts were open and it was only above about 2500m where it was really windy up there.

Help!!

Zermatt and Cervinia 2022-2023

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