 Poster: A snowHead
|
|
|
|
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
|
|
Dupe
Last edited by Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person on Sun 3-01-21 21:33; edited 1 time in total
|
|
|
|
|
|
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
|
| mishmash wrote: |
SpyderJon has been raving to me about them, but that is because he wants to sell me some...
The C-raider is the one to look at , i m probably going to put some on a pair of Black Diamond Carbon Helio 104 . Currently grappling with some Dalbello Quantum boot fitting problems first though... |
|
|
|
|
|
|
You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
|
|
@BobinCH, I briefly considered them instead of Salomon MTNs for my next pair of superguides - lightweight, strong and simple. I went with MTNs again as they're even simpler and they've proven so reliable I've no reason to change. Plus spares are probably easier to come by.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
|
|
|
|
You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
|
|
Great pics and your skis will thank you.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Great to find untracked a week after the last snowfall, with all the Christmas hordes (yes, THAT word again) pillaging the obvious lines, one has to be creative!
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
|
|
|
|
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
|
More binding issues this time on the Shift. The plate the brake sits on fell off as I was doing a transition. Can slide it back on but can’t get the 2 hooks at the end back into the holes to secure it. Any ideas?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
You know it makes sense.
|
|
@qwerty360, I'm a professional engineer; if someone has to do it, I'll take one for the team.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
|
|
@BobinCH, I haven't had a huge amount of experience with the Shifts: spent a day skiing them and some cheeky fiddling when their owner wasn't looking. My thoughts were that bits of them (I'm thinking brake and raisers) are fairly rustic compared to the complexity (and design effort) that has gone into the toe, for example. The more complicated bindings do seem to suffer with reliability issues (Beasts...) and bits falling off them like this. I think my tectons are a design marvel but the proof is how long they stay like that! Ramble over.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Poster: A snowHead
|
|
I have Marker Alpinist on both sets of my touring skis. I have put 1000's of meters on them both up and down; ski them on piste and hard stuff on my heavier skis. They are not the best at anything but they just work and are super reliable.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
|
| BobinCH wrote: |
| More binding issues this time on the Shift. The plate the brake sits on fell off as I was doing a transition. Can slide it back on but can’t get the 2 hooks at the end back into the holes to secure it. Any ideas? |
For that to have happen then the brake wasn't installed correctly to start or the locking tooth on each hook has been broken off by careless handling if the bindings have been swapped between skis etc - so more of a user issue than a binding issue  .
If that happens on the mountain then:
- If you're skinning up just put the brake in your backpack
- If you skiing down then just slide the brake assembly back on the lower base plate (from front to back) and your boot will hold it in. But if you stack it in deep snow be prepared to spend some time trying to find the brake plus there's a chance you could brake the hooks off.
For a proper fix the rear heel unit has to be unwound forward and removed from the lower base plate for which you need a no.3 pozi screwdriver. The brake can then attached to the heel (ie put the hooks in the holes) and then complete upper heel/brake assembly is then slid/wound back on the lower base plate. The heel length needs precisely adjusting as the Shift is sensitive to the forward pressure adjustment. It's an easy 2 minute on-the-slope fix providing you have a screwdriver in your backpack.
As an aside I always recommend to my customers that they familiarise themselves with the workings of their kit before they get to the mountain.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
|
@BobinCH, ahhhh call that a problem, as you know I had a bit of an issue today 
Luckily it happened when I was not too far from the bottom, still a 45min walk!
Copy of various text mesages
I was coming down a steep section that they had groomed and due to cold temps was very hard so I was cranking the edges and then all of a sudden I was on my back bottom sliding down Rapido with one ski it was only when I came to a halt I saw that the toe piece was still on my boot !
There was a couple skinning up, turned out they were from La Grave over scoping our snow as they heard it was good, they were quite impressed with the fall as they thought I'd just stacked it, then I showed them the toe piece on my boot
Ski is fecked, shop blamed the ski as I the plate is supect, does look like water ingress or something not right, can't be arsed to go back to the retailer etc
They asked if I'd be jumping, I just replied: "at my age?"
Last edited by Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see? on Sat 9-01-21 8:23; edited 1 time in total
|
|
|
|
|
|
You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
|
|
@Sharkymark, @zzz, +1 for simplicity, I also have the Alpinists and they're bombproof, ski well and simple, only issue was a worn heel riser spring which I've had changed under warranty, the new design is totally different so should fix any issues
|
|
|
|
|
|
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
|
| spyderjon wrote: |
| BobinCH wrote: |
| More binding issues this time on the Shift. The plate the brake sits on fell off as I was doing a transition. Can slide it back on but can’t get the 2 hooks at the end back into the holes to secure it. Any ideas? |
For that to have happen then the brake wasn't installed correctly to start or the locking tooth on each hook has been broken off by careless handling if the bindings have been swapped between skis etc - so more of a user issue than a binding issue .
If that happens on the mountain then:
- If you're skinning up just put the brake in your backpack
- If you skiing down then just slide the brake assembly back on the lower base plate (from front to back) and your boot will hold it in. But if you stack it in deep snow be prepared to spend some time trying to find the brake plus there's a chance you could brake the hooks off.
For a proper fix the rear heel unit has to be unwound forward and removed from the lower base plate for which you need a no.3 pozi screwdriver. The brake can then attached to the heel (ie put the hooks in the holes) and then complete upper heel/brake assembly is then slid/wound back on the lower base plate. The heel length needs precisely adjusting as the Shift is sensitive to the forward pressure adjustment. It's an easy 2 minute on-the-slope fix providing you have a screwdriver in your backpack.
As an aside I always recommend to my customers that they familiarise themselves with the workings of their kit before they get to the mountain. |
Thanks! I’ve used these skis/bindings for 2 years without any problems and never moved the bindings. Any idea how this could happen now? The other binding has the teeth fully locked in and I don’t see how they could have “slipped” on this ski??? Temps have been very cold but apart from that nothing different.
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
|
@Weathercam, should have skied down on one ski. Good training 
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| KenX wrote: |
| @Sharkymark, @zzz, +1 for simplicity, I also have the Alpinists and they're bombproof, ski well and simple, only issue was a worn heel riser spring which I've had changed under warranty, the new design is totally different so should fix any issues |
Any comparisons of Alpinist vs ATK Raider? They look solid - all metal compared to the plastic bits on my Xenics, which I think are similar to Alpinists?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
|
Thanks. That C Raider looks perfect from the review! Alpinist class leader on downhill - nice!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The Alpinist is a great functioning/durable/proven binding at a great price and I sell loads of them. Alpinist specs:
Low delta angle of 2mm!
245g without brakes/leashes and 345g with the 105mm brake
Fixed release value 'U-Bow' style vertical release with choice of three strengths
4mm of longitudinal elasticity
14mm of length adjustment (+/-7mm)
Three climbing heights
Brakes can best be described as 'quirky'
Reduced power transmission if used brakeless
The problem with U-Bow vertical release systems (as created by Dynafit and copied by everyone else) is that the release value cannot be fine tuned and that they're likely to weaken over time.
ATK also have models that use a U-Bow release system but they're limited to their Skimo Racing range. The big benefit of the other ATK models is that they have independently adjustable vertical and lateral release values going up to high dins. Add in a huge amount of longitudinal elasticity in the heel at 12mm and you have a range of bindings (Freeraider 14, C-Raider 12 & Raider 12) that are ideal for aggressive freeriding skiers as it greatly reduce the risk of punching out at the toe and thus reducing the need to lock the toe out. Plus they have a proper brake and five climbing heights with magnetic flippers and 25mm (+/-12.5mm) of length adjustment in the heel. Weights are 380g, 320g & 355g respectively inc screws.
And an additional major feature is the Freeride Spacer which sits just in front of the heel pins are supports the boot heel when edging to give excellent torsional stiffness/power transmission. The Freeride Spacer comes as standard with the Freeraider 14 (& it's included in the quoted weight) and is an optional extra for the C-Raider 12 and Raider 12. The Freeride Spacer adds 29g to the weight of the C-Raider & the Raider.
The Freeraider 14 and Raider 12 also have a feature in the toe that allows the clamping tension when skinning to be varied between three settings. Note that this does change the clamping tension when skiing which is a fixed value. The benefit of this system is supposedly to allow for wear in the boots toe inserts over time. I think that this is a solution to a problem that doesn't exist as if your toe inserts are that worn that the boot retention is iffy when skinning then you shouldn't be skiing down in them! I suppose one benefit of the system is that the 'hard' setting does give a very tight clamp but it can still actually release so you could skin with the toes unlocked but they'll still release if you were caught in a slide.
The downside for some with these three ATK models is that they have 10/11mm of delta (which is similar to their direct competitiors) but they're easily shimmed. We are currently working with ATK to reduce this and I'm hopefull that the 21/22 versions will be down to 5/6mm. ATK's touring range of bindings and their brakeless models already have deltas like that with some reducing to zero.
My two big sellers in the freeride range of ATK's is the Freeraider 14 and the C-Raider 12. The C-Raider is lighter and cheaper than the Raider 12 so the C-Raider is the obvious choice between the two 5-12 din models. Plus, due to a quirk in the ATK pricing the Freeraider 14 (8-14 din) is cheaper than the Raider 12 + Freeride Spacer so as most users of these binding will be on 8 din or over the Freeraider 14 is the obvious choice between the two.
Whilst the Freeraider 14 is twice the price of a Alpinist 9 they are by no means direct competitors in terms of function. The Release 10 is the Alpinist 9 competitor but still has many of the extra features and it comes with leash, all for about £50/20% more.
If anyone has any question about these or the other ATK models then just ask.
|
|
|
|
|
|
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
|
| spyderjon wrote: |
The Alpinist is a great functioning/durable/proven binding at a great price and I sell loads of them. Alpinist specs:
Low delta angle of 2mm!
245g without brakes/leashes and 345g with the 105mm brake
Fixed release value 'U-Bow' style vertical release with choice of three strengths
4mm of longitudinal elasticity
14mm of length adjustment (+/-7mm)
Three climbing heights
Brakes can best be described as 'quirky'
Reduced power transmission if used brakeless
The problem with U-Bow vertical release systems (as created by Dynafit and copied by everyone else) is that the release value cannot be fine tuned and that they're likely to weaken over time.
ATK also have models that use a U-Bow release system but they're limited to their Skimo Racing range. The big benefit of the other ATK models is that they have independently adjustable vertical and lateral release values going up to high dins. Add in a huge amount of longitudinal elasticity in the heel at 12mm and you have a range of bindings (Freeraider 14, C-Raider 12 & Raider 12) that are ideal for aggressive freeriding skiers as it greatly reduce the risk of punching out at the toe and thus reducing the need to lock the toe out. Plus they have a proper brake and five climbing heights with magnetic flippers and 25mm (+/-12.5mm) of length adjustment in the heel. Weights are 380g, 320g & 355g respectively inc screws.
And an additional major feature is the Freeride Spacer which sits just in front of the heel pins are supports the boot heel when edging to give excellent torsional stiffness/power transmission. The Freeride Spacer comes as standard with the Freeraider 14 (& it's included in the quoted weight) and is an optional extra for the C-Raider 12 and Raider 12. The Freeride Spacer adds 29g to the weight of the C-Raider & the Raider.
The Freeraider 14 and Raider 12 also have a feature in the toe that allows the clamping tension when skinning to be varied between three settings. Note that this does change the clamping tension when skiing which is a fixed value. The benefit of this system is supposedly to allow for wear in the boots toe inserts over time. I think that this is a solution to a problem that doesn't exist as if your toe inserts are that worn that the boot retention is iffy when skinning then you shouldn't be skiing down in them! I suppose one benefit of the system is that the 'hard' setting does give a very tight clamp but it can still actually release so you could skin with the toes unlocked but they'll still release if you were caught in a slide.
The downside for some with these three ATK models is that they have 10/11mm of delta (which is similar to their direct competitiors) but they're easily shimmed. We are currently working with ATK to reduce this and I'm hopefull that the 21/22 versions will be down to 5/6mm. ATK's touring range of bindings and their brakeless models already have deltas like that with some reducing to zero.
My two big sellers in the freeride range of ATK's is the Freeraider 14 and the C-Raider 12. The C-Raider is lighter and cheaper than the Raider 12 so the C-Raider is the obvious choice between the two 5-12 din models. Plus, due to a quirk in the ATK pricing the Freeraider 14 (8-14 din) is cheaper than the Raider 12 + Freeride Spacer so as most users of these binding will be on 8 din or over the Freeraider 14 is the obvious choice between the two.
Whilst the Freeraider 14 is twice the price of a Alpinist 9 they are by no means direct competitors in terms of function. The Release 10 is the Alpinist 9 competitor but still has many of the extra features and it comes with leash, all for about £50/20% more.
If anyone has any question about these or the other ATK models then just ask. |
Thanks for the detailed feedback. Put me down for a pair of those reduced delta C-Raiders when you get them!
|
|
|
|
|
|
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
|
@spyderjon, you make some good points Jon, and perhaps I could add a couple of observations of my own.
Firstly, bindings with U bow pins/release. You are bang on to point out that they weaken over time (and also cause greater wear on boot heel fittings than heel pins which roll). The U bow pins on one of my skis failed last season. Luckily I was only at the top of a 600 foot climb and hadn't skied off and up the next climb which would have left me in the middle of nowhere calling for the PGHM. This was a Dynafit Superlite 2 rather than an Alpinist, but the way the pins work is the same.
I had probably done 60,000+ metres of up (and therefore much more down) on them over 3 or 4 years, but they were not used much skiing from lifts. I suspect that the action of stepping in repeatedly is what causes the weakness, rather than the stress imposed by actually skiing. These were skis used frequently on pretty consequential ground and the result of a failure in those circumstances is unthinkable. This has led to me rethinking what I intend to ski on in the future.
Which nicely leads on to ATK's. I got some Black Crows Atris fitted with ATK R12's last year. It is a beautifully made binding and skis well. As you know I like my boots pretty flat (you have flogged me more than one binding with a shim!). I found that with a 4/5mm shim (can't remember which) my Tecnica Zero G was flat enough for me. I presume that a future ATK toe piece with reduced ramp will be something like the one they currently produce for Moment Skis (the Voyager XIV)?
Finally on the ATK R12 and 14; the brake. It isn't as useless as the one that comes at a premium on the Alpinist. It does however remain a bit weedy. Fine to rely on stepping in and out of on dodgy ground, but unlikely to stop a hefty ski liberated during a fall on steep ground. Nothing like as reliable as those belters on Beast 14's and the like.
So for my money, if you work your equipment hard and venture into places where a binding failure is likely to leave you deceased, spend a bit more on a better engineered, if slightly (or significantly) heavier binding.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| HammondR wrote: |
I had probably done 60,000+ metres of up (and therefore much more down) on them over 3 or 4 years, but they were not used much skiing from lifts. I suspect that the action of stepping in repeatedly is what causes the weakness, rather than the stress imposed by actually skiing. These were skis used frequently on pretty consequential ground and the result of a failure in those circumstances is unthinkable. This has led to me rethinking what I intend to ski on in the future.
...
So for my money, if you work your equipment hard and venture into places where a binding failure is likely to leave you deceased, spend a bit more on a better engineered, if slightly (or significantly) heavier binding. |
Without criticizing your experiences, I would make a few comments.
The basic tech bindings such at the Dynafit Speed Turn are very reliable. You can do a million vertical meters on them. There have been a few weaknesses identified over the years but in general if you are venturing off grid or doing steeps they are the bindings to have. Everything that complicates the basic design seems to lead to more problems. Some people use minimalist competition bindings for steep skiing. You can put a stopper under the heel of your boot to relieve some of the stress on the pins - some of the binding makers sell these.
As I have said repeatedly expensive touring bindings should not be your go-to binding for piste binding. A ski tour you may cover max 2000 meters in a normal day, piste skiing 5x them. That is 5x more wear often at more extreme stresses than ski touring. The lugs on boots seem to suffer most. I note you've not done much lift served.
|
|
|
|
|
|
You know it makes sense.
|
| spyderjon wrote: |
| BobinCH wrote: |
| More binding issues this time on the Shift. The plate the brake sits on fell off as I was doing a transition. Can slide it back on but can’t get the 2 hooks at the end back into the holes to secure it. Any ideas? |
For that to have happen then the brake wasn't installed correctly to start or the locking tooth on each hook has been broken off by careless handling if the bindings have been swapped between skis etc - so more of a user issue than a binding issue .
If that happens on the mountain then:
- If you're skinning up just put the brake in your backpack
- If you skiing down then just slide the brake assembly back on the lower base plate (from front to back) and your boot will hold it in. But if you stack it in deep snow be prepared to spend some time trying to find the brake plus there's a chance you could brake the hooks off.
For a proper fix the rear heel unit has to be unwound forward and removed from the lower base plate for which you need a no.3 pozi screwdriver. The brake can then attached to the heel (ie put the hooks in the holes) and then complete upper heel/brake assembly is then slid/wound back on the lower base plate. The heel length needs precisely adjusting as the Shift is sensitive to the forward pressure adjustment. It's an easy 2 minute on-the-slope fix providing you have a screwdriver in your backpack.
As an aside I always recommend to my customers that they familiarise themselves with the workings of their kit before they get to the mountain. |
Good advice! Alas came off again twice yesterday. The piece must be damaged somehow. Backside offered to send it back to Salomon for me. Fingers crossed...
|
|
|
|
|
|
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
|
so we have more snow here in Leeds, about 5cm and coming down heavily....I'm going to have to go for a tour of the local golf course, it is really not steep so I reckon I can "tour" without skins and go up across any slopes.... do folk reckon that'd work or should I just take my skins??
Sadly this could be my only chance of skiing this season!!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Poster: A snowHead
|
|
@kitenski, your call on skins but don't forget the holy trinity (probe, shovel, bleep) and you may as well take the Avibag as you need somewhere to carry them. Not going off piste alone are you?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
|
|
Definitely avi bag! And the 3m probe...
|
|
|
|
|
|
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
|
|
@kitenski, depends on how well waxed your skis are and the snow. I'd take skins myself just in case
|
|
|
|
|
|
You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
|
@kitenski, You will stand much less chance doing any damage (to both yourself and the golf course) with skins on. Also be prepared for thin snow and bare patches where you will come to an abrupt halt 
|
|
|
|
|
|
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
|
| DJL wrote: |
| @kitenski, ...Not going off fairway alone are you? |
FIFY
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
|
|
Is it too soon for a "Fore" skins gag?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Don't forget your ski crampons and avalanche safe ski ribbons.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
|
|
@Mosha Marc,
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
FAQ
