 Poster: A snowHead
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@JamesHJ, thanks, glad you're finding it interesting. I'm sure you'd have a great time in February, as long as you enjoy driving. Hopefully there'll be some new snow before your trip!
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Tuesday 25/1 - Villard de Lans-Corrençon
Piste map here.
My favourite day of the week so far, at somewhere I doubt even most snowHeads will have heard of: the Espace Villard-de-Lans-Correncon-en-Vercors. This is the largest ski area (and the longest name) in the Vercors range, located a few miles further south from Lans en Vercors which we visited on Friday. Vast, free car parks at the main lift base. Sunny weather (again) and a cool feel no doubt helped us to enjoy the area at its best.
The EVLC (I'll call it) claims 125km of pistes; in reality it's probably no bigger in km terms than Chamrousse, but runs spread across a wider and more interesting area. We were just about able to cover all but about 3 or 4 minor runs in the full day we were there (with packed lunch on the lifts).
At the Villard de Lans end, two gondolas and a slow chair from two separate lift bases (1100m) serve wooded slopes which are weirdly mostly graded either black or green. The fast Grand Canyon chair above this covers open, busy blue runs.
At the other end, slopes directly above Corrençon are in a similar vein, this time with a new telemix / chondola. A steep, long and cold chair accesses the area high point (only 2050m) - and loads more very scenic runs. Green traversing pistes (and an easy blue which should be green) neatly link the two extremities of the domain, enabling near-beginners to explore freely.
In the middle is a wonderful, unusual area of slopes amidst limestone scenery straight out of a geography textbook. Pistes often run down mini canyons with cliffs on either side (and enormous cliffs dwarfing the pistes off the Ourson drag). Off piste is visibly riddled with dangerous terrain traps: potholes, sudden drops. Skiing in this sector (Cretes / Ourson / Grand Buisson) was such a unique experience that it felt a bit like we were on a different continent. The views generally were the best of all the areas we've visited so far on this trip.
The lift system is quite good and the pistes mostly face a shady northwest, but the low altitude must be a problem in poor snow years. Even today, though almost every piste was open and in great condition, there were a few stony, bare or wind scoured areas.
Highlights were Bouquetin (blue), Canyon (red) and Coqs (red) in the otherworldly central sector. Grand Couloir (black) above Corrençon was briefly quite steep and icy, but isn't as scary as the name suggests. Nearby Rhodo is perhaps the pick of several long blacks lower down - which are excellent, but don't really deserve a black grading.
Grand Canyon chair above Cote 2000
Chevreuil (blue) off the Cretes chair
Grand Buisson chair
Perdrix Blanche (blue)
Bouquetin (blue)
Cliffs next to the Ourson drag
Violette (green) down to Correncon
View from the top of the Belvedere chair
Choucas (very easy black)
Les Glovettes is pretty ugly (Cote 2000 isn't much better)
Cote 2000 at closing time
Last edited by Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person on Mon 31-01-22 21:36; edited 1 time in total
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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It sounds inviting, @denfinella. 
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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@denfinella, one of the places we skied regularly. The wife was training in a ski club there twice a week back in the day. The snow is often better than in Chamrousse, despite being lower, due to the aspect.
As you said, the views from the edge of the plateau are spectacular!
Edit: Once upon a time there was an excellent 1 Michelin star restaurant in the Hotel du Golf in Corrençon. They have/had good accomodation too, which made it easier after a boozy dinner, hic!
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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@JamesHJ, where did you and your wife live - you evidently know this region well! 
Wednesday 26/1 - Meaudre & Autrans
Meaudre piste map here.
Autrans piste map here.
Back up the long and winding road to the Vercors plateau for the third time - this time to visit two small ski areas which have a shared lift pass: Autrans and Meaudre. Another cold, clear morning, and the temperature plummeted to -17C at 9am when we arrived at Meaudre. I didn't dare speak the name of the resort in case my poor French pronunciation was mistaken for a rude word...
Both ski areas are entirely wooded, low altitude, have just a handful of lifts (slow chairs and drags). €21 for a weekday pass, which also includes a free day pass for a later date (unfortunately I probably won't be able to use it).
One ski area faces east and the other west, so it was logical to visit Meaudre first while it was in the morning sun. Apart from the kids on the nursery slopes, the pistes were populated by fairly elderly skiers who were all much more accomplished then us. Most of the runs are fairly steep and wide - great for working on technique. As well as top to bottom chairs, there's a separate, ancient drag lift serving a decent red and an unpisted black with vegetation poking through. It was warm at the top but every time we descended to car park level I could feel my face freezing as the temperature dropped by perhaps 20C!
Upon leaving the Meaudre frost hollow at lunchtime it was still -7C, but a few miles up the road at Autrans it was +7C. Similar skiing, but with less vertical and a greater variety of gradients. The two black runs were both shut: one for competitions and the other because the drag lift serving it only opens at the weekend. Lots of ski schools and racers later on in the afternoon. On the way home we stopped in Autrans village for a go on the Alpine Coaster (€7.50 for up to 2 people) which occupies the line of an abandoned old ski area. Good fun.
Favourite runs: Gelinotte (red) at Meaudre, Quoi (red) at Autrans. Immaculate cover on all the pisted runs at both ski areas - impressive considering the 1000m base altitude.
Foret chair, Meaudre
View from the top of Meaudre ski area
Blanchot (red), Meaudre
Blanchot (red), Meaudre
Les Petits Loups (green), Meaudre
Chevreuil (blue), Meaudre
Goncon chair from the nursery slopes, Meaudre
The Cray sector from the nursery slopes, Meaudre
View north towards Autrans from Aigle (black), Meaudre
Top of the Quoi chair, Autrans
Quoi chair, Autrans
Quoi (red), Autrans
Autrans main base station
Last edited by Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do. on Mon 31-01-22 21:46; edited 1 time in total
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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@denfinella, Great reports, really interesting. I had a few trips to Lans en Vercors and Villard de Lans / Correncon several years ago but at the time did not ski in Autrans- Meaudre so it's qood that they are all still going.
Nothing to do with skiing really but this place in Lans en Vercors is great for kids https://www.magiedesautomates.fr
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@denfinella, what a brilliant TR this is, I’ve just read it from the start to today’s post. Lovely to read about all the different areas in such detail, looking forward to tomorrow adventure.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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@denfinella, problem with your trip reports is that it puts too many places 'on the list' - Villard de Lans-Corrençon sounds like a must-visit. Along with all the others... Think it's the way you write!
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| geoffknight wrote: |
| @denfinella, what a brilliant TR this is, I’ve just read it from the start to today’s post. Lovely to read about all the different areas in such detail, looking forward to tomorrow adventure. |
+1
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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| Hurtle wrote: |
| geoffknight wrote: |
| @denfinella, what a brilliant TR this is, I’ve just read it from the start to today’s post. Lovely to read about all the different areas in such detail, looking forward to tomorrow adventure. |
+1 |
+1
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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You know it makes sense.
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@denfinella, If I want a cheap meal when staying in Grenoble I just go to one of the restaurants at a big supermarket.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Thursday 27/1 - Les 7 Laux
Piste map here.
Few snowHeads visit Les 7 Laux, but everyone who does seems to rave about it. Verdict: it's worth the hype! Located just along the Belledonne chain from Chamrousse, there are a few superficial similarities: a similar-sized ski area (120km claimed), excellent lift system (almost entirely detachable chairs - no taking skis off required) and purpose-built, strictly functional lift bases with big car parks for day trippers.
In reality the domains are very different. Firstly, Les 7 Laux spreads much further across a more varied landscape, with lower woodland runs contrasting with rugged high mountain terrain.
Secondly, the natural fall-line is of black gradient, so there are lots (and lots) of black runs, with even the reds having to take a sinuous route to reduce steepness. Blues and greens are often just (well-designed) traverses, though there is a thoughtfully-designed itinerary allowing cautious intermediates to get between all three lift bases: Prapoutel and Pipay on the front side, and Le Pleynet in a remote valley over the back.
Thirdly, Les 7 Laux starts at lower altitude than Chamrousse (1350m) and goes higher (2400m). The key lifts have big verticals too, so there are some really satisfyingly long descents (the Chanterelle piste markers count down from 53!).
The ski area feels a bit like an outdoor theme park - there are well over a dozen boardercrosses, plus a snowpark and several Instagram-worthy photo spots. Most (perhaps all) of the wildlife-themed lifts have sculptures of the animal they're named after to look out for on the ride up. This creative approach really adds value to the skiing - standard pistes are just so vanilla these days! It also clearly attracts a young crowd, with the average average probably half that of Meaudre yesterday.
The signature black is the Vallons du Pra, which runs the full length of a rocky valley above Le Pleynet. Though not fearsomely steep, the grading is justified and the scenery breathtaking. There are three entrances which open according to avalanche risk and snow conditions (entry no. 2 was open today, which looks like the easiest one on topographic maps).
This and many other long blacks were left mogulled: some of the best included Eveque, Jasse and Noisettes. All had excellent snow at the right time of day, chalk even verging on powder in places. Many blacks face east or west, so tackle them at the wrong time at your peril. Some black "freeride areas" such as the Combe de Bedina and Le Pas du Chien were closed all day - not sure why.
There are also some brilliant (but potentially busy) reds: Chamois and Mataru run the full vertical on the front side. Clapiere is along the top of a ridge with more amazing views. The best blues are on the Le Pleynet (morning sun) side. The very top of Coulemelle from the Oursiere chair is a narrow, steepish and busy track with a steep drop to the right - potentially uncomfortable for early intermediates and should probably be graded red.
We were just about able to ski all the runs with the exception of the closed freeride areas and a couple of minor linking pistes, but only by starting at lift opening, eating a packed lunch and skiing right through til 5pm.
One other negative apart from the lack of easy cruising runs: this wouldn't be a great place to visit in bad weather - lots of the lifts are quite exposed, the best runs are above the tree line and some runs are obviously prone to closure when avalanche risk is high. We were really lucky to get a sunny and calm day (again), and avalanche risk was 1/5.
It's not a massive place - unless you were interested in the extensive off piste options then you might start getting bored after a few days. Overall though, surely one of the most underrated French ski areas? And by the way - the weekday lift pass was just €27.50. That's cheaper than Glenshee...
Rosee des Pres (blue) under the Aigle chair
Moguls under the Aigle chair
One of several boardercrosses, under the Oursiere chair
View down the Haut-Breda valley from the Oursiere chair
Top of Vallons du Pra (black)
Vallons du Pra (black)
Gypaete chair
2nd entrance to Vallons du Pra (black) & Pouta (black) from the Gypaete chair
Chamois (red) & Cabris (blue) from the Gypaete chair
Eterlou / Marmottons bowl from Biche (blue)
Top of Chanterelle (red)
Middle part of Chanterelle (green)
Grand Cerf telexmix
Rhodos (black)
Mataru (red)
Top of Pouta (black)
Jasse (black) bowl from the top of the Chamois chair
Clapiere (red) ridge run
Chamois chair at Prapoutel
Prapoutel base station
Last edited by Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name: on Mon 31-01-22 22:10; edited 1 time in total
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Poster: A snowHead
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| denfinella wrote: |
| Thursday 27/1 - Les 7 Laux |
Brilliant, thanks: certainly picqued my interest!!
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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I sort of wish we had done more when we lived in the area now. Incidentally, the wife just went to bed in a huff, because i'm moaning over a beer about what could have been, and what might be if we sell everything and move back
Excellent trip reports @denfinella, inspirational stuff!
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@JamesHJ, I feel your pain. When I suggest anything like that I get an instant no. It took me over a decade to get her to move 40 miles from her mum!
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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@denfinella, I was wondering what you thought of Vizille. There was only one place open there on our last visit there in summer 2019, even though there were quite a few people about. We stopped for a very poor lunch on our way to Burgundy and then had a disastrous afternoon. Loving the trip report.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Definitely getting to Les 7 Laux at some point. Sounds like late March would be better than Christmas/early Jan.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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@EarthWindandWater, good to hear!
@JamesHJ, oh dear, maybe best to wait a few days before trying again 
@Hells Bells, disastrous afternoon? You have to tell us more now!
@Layne, yes, I would definitely agree that March would normally be better than early January for Les 7 Laux.
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@denfinella, Have you walked in the Chateau grounds yet, it's beautiful.
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@denfinella, we spent most of it at the gendarmerie after persons unknown broke into our campervan while we were eating the rubbish lunch.
Then we had to go all the way back to Monetier to wait for a window for the van.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Friday 28/1 - Gresse en Vercors
Piste map here.
Today was a bit of a bonus day as we've been everywhere around Grenoble on our "must do" list. Earlier in the week it had looked like some cloud or even light snow would come in, but it ended up being sunny again.
We headed to Gresse en Vercors, which is attached to an external valley on the east side of the Vercors, rather than being in the interior like the other Vercors areas. So an easier (45 min) drive to the lift station, where it was a chilly start again at -10C.
Gresse is a tiny area set at the head of a north facing valley, backed by a Dolomite-esque array of rock spires and cliffs. The ski area is tiny but I reckon offers more variety than similar-sized nearby areas (Lans en Vercors, Autrans, Meaudre). It best suits green and red run skiers (the blue runs are either very easy or very short). We just bought a 4hr morning pass for €15.60, saving a tiny bit on the full day rate.
Most of the domain faces east, with wide lower greens and blues served by parallel drags, and a short chairlift leading to steeper blues and a short black. Above this, two much steeper drags access the top of the Pierre Blanche sector, with decent and reasonably long reds / blacks.
On the other side of the road, there is the smaller, colder, north facing Alleyrons sector. This was a bit "rustic", with narrow pistes, dodgy grooming and a few worn / icy patches. We were pretty much the only skiers on this side.
Total vertical is only 500m (1200-1700m) and care is needed about which day of the week you visit; on Mon / Tue / Thu / Fri the entire Alleyrons sector and the chairlift only open alternately. Today it was Alleyrons' turn to open, which was good because the chairlift runs can be accessed from other lifts.
Finished up at lunchtime. This afternoon - a slight snag in our logistics - we're driving all the way up north to Le Collet d'Allevard to return ski hire, before returning south again to Vizille. And tomorrow, north again to Geneva.  It wasn't supposed to be this way - changes to flight dates and times due to Covid messed up our schedule a bit here!
I'll wrap up this trip report once back in the UK along with a cost breakdown and the addition of photos.
View from the ticket office
Clos du Roux (green) & the Pras drags
L'Olagniere (blue)
Blanchon chair & Coteilles (blue)
Cerf (red) & Marmottes (red) from the Pierre Blanche drag
Viewpoint at the top of the Pierre Blanche drag
Bouquetins (red)
Top of the Alleyrons sector
View from the top of the Alleyrons drag
View down Myrtilles (red) in the Alleyrons sector
Lift base from Piochanet (blue)
Last edited by You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net. on Mon 31-01-22 22:21; edited 1 time in total
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@denfinella, I think if you were to repeat this trip in a couple of weeks time you'd be in for a bit of a shock 
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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@Weathercam, yes, I imagine that would be very different indeed!
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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Photos now added to each day / ski area, so feel free to look back if you're interested!
Departure day on Saturday went reasonably smoothly. We had a straightforward albeit foggy drive back to Geneva, with an interesting episode of "neige industrielle" on a 500m stretch around Annecy, falling and covering the autoroute (Google it!). Geneva was very busy (we were also introduced to the joys of Terminal 2 check-in), but we were in the air with only a minor delay. Edinburgh was very quiet indeed, and unaffected by the tail end of Storm Malik.
Summary
We thought the ski areas around Grenoble offered excellent skiing, beautiful scenery and tremendous variety, though we were exceptionally lucky with the weather (almost entirely sunny with light winds and coolish temperatures) and snow (almost all pistes open everywhere). The fact that it hadn't snowed for two weeks before our visit didn't really have a negative impact on piste conditions.
My favourite areas were Les 7 Laux and Villard de Lans-Correncon. Alpe du Grand Serre was also a minor revelation considering its small size. Le Collet d'Allevard was small but varied with a friendly feel. Chamrousse was good for snowparks and has more cruising runs than its neighbour Les 7 Laux, but less variety. Lans en Vercors, Meaudre, Autrans and Gresse en Vercors are perhaps more "niche" areas and certainly wouldn't be suitable for multiple days if you like to cover lots of miles. Alpe d'Huez was notably busier than the other areas (perhaps just a Saturday thing) and pistes were more hard-packed as a result.
Snow reliability at some - perhaps most - of these ski areas could be a problem in poor seasons. Some areas have next to no snowmaking. Most of the areas face northwest, which led to some cold and dark mornings. Lift systems varied from ancient (Gresse en Vercors / Lans en Vercors) to excellent (Les 7 Laux / Chamrousse).
Vizille was great as a location but unexciting as a destination. Visiting multiple resorts from a valley base let us take advantage of cheap accommodation and lift pass deals, but obviously necessitated lots of driving each day (30-75 mins each way depending on ski area). Lots of mountain roads to climb, which wouldn't have been fun if the weather had been snowier. Traffic around Grenoble and along the Romanche gorge was more of an irritation than a big problem, but meant we had to keep an eye on Google maps traffic, take the odd detour, and leave contingency time in the mornings to guarantee arriving before lift opening time. I would also advise against visiting these areas at New Year or during the Grenoble half term holidays!
Costs
Breakdown (total for 2 adults, 11 days):
Flights (EasyJet + Jet2 EDI-GVA, incl. 1 hold bag): £240
Car hire (Europcar with winter tyres & chains, + fuel / tolls): £269+137
Accommodation (2-person apartment in Allevard, 1 night + 2-person studio in Vizille, 9 nights): £30+189
Lift passes (all single days, various discounts): £342
Ski & boot hire (10 days - last day unused due to flight change): £143
Total: £1350
(Not included: food costs, insurance, LFT tests...)
Flight & car hire costs were higher than usual for this trip (Covid + Brexit?). Cancellation of our originally booked flights also removed the opportunity to ski on arrival and departure day, which would have reduced the cost per day skiing. On the plus side, lift pass and accommodation costs were lower than usual.
If anyone has any questions about more specific aspects please ask away.
Last edited by And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports. on Mon 6-02-23 18:39; edited 2 times in total
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You know it makes sense.
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I don't know how, but I managed to miss this fabulous report. Must now earmark some time to read it properly. I'm particularly interested in the Allevard bit. I've never been there (winter or summer) but it's where my mother's family were in hiding during WWII. (Her parents, sister and two brothers and families - she herself was in London by then.)
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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@Hurtle, thanks, we liked Allevard, and that's interesting about your family link.
I'm really glad we weren't doing this trip this year though, given how dire snow conditions in the Vercors are currently...
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FAQ
