The path up from lac jovet to the col is clearly visible unless it is covered in snow
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Thanks all, very much appreciate the replies.
Looks good altis, it seems you did all the good looking alternatives as well. I'm hoping that ours will look a little like that too...
Thanks very much stevomcd & brock. Certainly sounds good and the hut looks to be in a stunning location, so it could be a decent option - we'll see how the weather & snow looks.
Cheers
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, we're under way!
Le Mans was a brilliant way to start the holiday, although not in terms of stockpiling sleep or health before The Big Walk!!
Today we started the Tour du Mont Blanc and we're still alive. Great day but aching legs now. The forecast was ok but not great for today, but turned out to be pretty decent. No rain (although it's started now, but we're happily dry and sheltered in a hotel!), but some clouds obscuring some of the peaks unfortunately, cloud hanging in the valley early on but we were soon above it. A fair bit of sun and it was warm, so pretty good all in all.
We wanted to have a relatively gentle introduction on day 1, but were also keen to do the Col de Tricot variante which turns it into a significantly harder day. So we settled on a compromise of getting the Bellevue cable car to start the day, which bypasses the first climb to Col de Voza, which was an easy decision as it was grey and cloudy in the valley and beautiful at the top of the lift. It was a brilliant walk with some climbing and a lot of descending. First snow was encountered at about 1900m on the way up to the 2100m Col de Tricot. There was an ibex waiting to greet us at the top of the Col. After a steep descent we had lunch in the stunning setting of the Refuge de Miage. Then up to Truc and all the way down to Les Contamines and a celebratory beer. Have just had the luxury of a soothing bath - I think probably the last of such luxuries we'll see until Courmayeur in a few days time.
I don't want to jinx myself and find I wake in the morning with 2 non working legs, but so far they are good. I was worried before setting off about a dodgy knee and 2 dodgy Achilles being my, well, Achilles heel. I had visions of lasting 1 day before finding they just weren't cut out for this and having to ditch the whole thing. Fortunately both are fine so far, and the knee particularly was tested with a fair amount of sometimes quite steep descending - massive relief. I'm fully aware that we're only 1 day in, but it's a far better result than I feared, so far at least.
I doubt we'll see much wifi again, so probably won't be able to update this much, if so I'll do a proper report when I'm home. I can't even put pics in at the moment as I'm on an iphone and have no idea how to.
Anyway, thanks all for the advice earlier in this thread, just wanted you to know it's not all been wasted - we're on our way...!
Keep it coming, I still have 2 months before I head to the area
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
This thread brings back memories of why Mrs Flying Snowplough and me did the TMB in 2000. It was f---ing freezing, though dry. I remember one part of the trip where the Cicerone guidebook recorded how it had been so hot that that the author dived into a cow water trough to cool down. When we did that section, it was hat and gloves time in the fog. We also had to take it in turns to re-heat our food over the Trangia some evenings, as it went cold so quickly. (Top tip to anyone - never try polenta on a camping stove...)
One can't really beat the experience of cracking ice off the flysheet before packing away the tent each morning either.
One can't really beat the experience of cracking ice off the flysheet before packing away the tent each morning either.
How about, cracking ice off your underwear before getting dressed?
I had hiked from the huts above the Ville des Glaciers (a couple of French women I met, and I spent the night in one of them, which was a nice respite from the snow) to the Campeggio Monte Bianco near Courmayeur; as I was backpacking solo, I had pared my kit to the minimum, so decided that after three days, my baselayers really needed a rinse (or more); as they hadn't dried before the sun went behind the hill, they froze on my guylines and I need to wait for them to thaw before moving in the morning. Meant I didn't get to Rifugio Elena until fairly late . . .
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Yellow Pyranha, I daren't ask, but sounds like a welcome diversion!!!
After all it is free
After all it is free
Day 2:
Les Contamines to Col de la Croix de Bonnehomme at 2500m. Tough day, 7 hours all uphill (afternoon conditions made it slow going).
Morning was sunny & warm. Picnic breakfast by river. Then a steep climb through woods and past waterfalls. Coffee at a hut. Then it opened out to gentler climbing track through meadows & pastures, very pretty.
After lunch the path got steeper and into proper high mountain surroundings, amazing place, big scenery. But soon the weather started to rain about an hour below the Col du Bonnehomme and thunder coming from ahead at the summit. Route was now mostly over rocks and streams, the last hour to the top in fairly heavy rain, thunder all around us. Waterproofs on. Saw first marmot, or more accurately his back bottom disappearing over a rock ahead! Hard going, walking through snow to get to the top. Quick rest in a wooden sheep hut at the summit to warm up.
Overnight hut was an hour away, at the next summit - Col de la Croix de Bonnehomme, over rocks and snow. Hard going, cold, rain now changed to heavy snow falling and thunder all around us - eerie and lonely but great in the clouds.
First part was up and across a steep traverse of snow with big drops if you slipped, made for nerve wracking going, quite scary. If you fell you wouldn't stop falling!!
The rest of the way to the top was gentler, but we were pretty cold and wet by now. Celebration pics at the top, quickly as very cold taking gloves off. Straight into hut and hot chocolate!!
Nobody else in our dorm which is handy, can spread clothes out to dry.
We were considering an alternative route (over Col d'Enclaves), but it's higher (and no doubt even snowier, which makes it tough going and difficult to find the route), harder and unmarked. So we decided against it as probably too ambitious in the conditions. The turning was about at the point it started to rain, and would have added a good 2-3 hours, so a good choice!
Shower, read book, food, bed.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
Day 3:
Col de la Croix de Bonnehomme to Rifugio Elisabetta, via Col des Fours and Col de la Seigne. 8 hours, long & hard day. Pretty poor weather.
Last night went to bed feeling pretty strong of leg and hoping the snow wouldn't carry on through the night and the morning would be good weather - the main route goes straight down from here, but we wanted to do the Col Des Fours variante which climbs further up from here into the really high stuff. Decided to only do it if conditions looked good in the morning....
Left for Col des Fours in light rain, soon turned to light snow, an inch of new snow on the ground from yesterday's snow.
Trudged through the snow for 45 mins to the top 2665m (8743ft), highest point of the TMB. Loooonnnggg descent to 1500m. Through snow then rocks & streams. Impressive, massive scenery - barren, wild and unwelcoming part of the world, very different to the pretty valley and woods and meadows of yesterday.
Lunch at Refuge des Mottets before the supposedly easy climb to Col de la Seigne at 2516m. It was a relatively gentle gradient compared to others, but we found it really hard going. Cold, rain on and off, headwind. Amazing views towards the NW on the climb.
No pics at the summit as it was cold and blowing a gale and we were in cloud. The views in both directions here are supposedly amazing. But we saw nothing beyond about 30yds. Annoyingly when we left, after 10 mins descent we looked back to see the summit in bright sunshine!!!!
Now in Italy.
Only 4km downhill to our overnight hut, the Elisabetta, but legs felt a little bit weary. Sun came out, but cold. Day 1 and the first half of day 2 were all shorts, t shirts, sunglasses and sun hats - that seems a long way away from today's waterproofs/gloves/wooly hat which have been on for most of the day.
Today was 8 hours, a long one. (All the daily times mentioned are from leaving our overnight hut to arriving at the next, so include all lunch/rest/snack stops - actual walking time is at least an hour less, probably 2).
Very Italian - only 1 working shower!
It's hard going, really tough at times - obviously it's all climbing (tiring) or descending (hard on the body, especially knees and thighs, which means climbing is preferable!!) and plenty of distance, and the weather hasn't helped the last day and a half. But am absolutely loving it. The sense of achievement we felt was enormous as we sat half way up the Col de la Seigne today, eating a toffee and looking across the valley at what we'd just climbed and descended - which from here looks like an enormous wall of a mountain. Love it.
Am also quietly pleased at how well the body has (so far!!) coped. Legs feel pretty strong. Old injuries hurt, but not to the point of affecting the walk. Hope it stays that way, and that I've not jinxed us, as there's a long way to go....!
Tomorrow has great views apparently. Hopefully the weather lets us see them...
Ski the Net with snowHeads
Ski the Net with snowHeads
Day 4:
Rifugio Elisabetta to Courmayeur. Relatively easy day - 7 hours, but that is skewed by a long relaxing lunch, less walking than previous days. Great weather and views.
Lovely weather finally. And good timing as we're now beside the massive Mont Blanc range with amazing views. Amazing how it lifts spirits and makes the day easier. (Although after 4 days we're still yet to see Mt Blanc itself as the very top is shrouded in cloud!)
Flat start to the day along a river to a huge glacial moraine. Then turn uphill for the fairly steep climb up to 2430m, today's highest point (a spur of Mont Favre). Not a huge climb but it takes us a couple of hours, because with these views we're often stopping to take in the sights - amazing.
After the top, it's a long descent to lunch, the 2nd half of it is across the Courmayeur ski area. Lunch at a ski restaurant, outside on the grass in lovely sunshine. And as it's a short day (not far to go after lunch) and we're in Italy we stay for a long, relaxing time.
After lunch we continue the descent to Courmayeur. Steep, knee-destroying descent. Hate the descents, very painful. Hobbling like an old man by the time we get to town. But tomorrow is a rest day here in Courmayeur so plenty of time to recover.
Find a hotel for a couple of nights (luxury compared to the mountain huts!) and very happy to be looking forward to pizza & beers tonight to celebrate making it this far, and a rest tomorrow - no walking, the legs will be pleased!!
It's been brilliant so far. And we're quite proud to have made it (and in quite good fettle too!) to this point. The legs are sore, but only as you'd expect it - they're not exactly used to going up and down mountains! They are just about feeling strong enough that I now have confidence that baring injury or disaster we'll get round fine, which is an improvement in confidence levels compared to before we started!!
Forecast for next few days is very good. And hot.
Pizza and beer...
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
Yellow Pyranha wrote:
How about, cracking ice off your underwear before getting dressed?
I did once have a frozen tea shirt in Nepal, but always managed to find a campsite or hotel sink for washing "smalls" in the Alps, mercifully for all concerned!
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Billy M wrote:
It's been brilliant so far. And we're quite proud to have made it (and in quite good fettle too!) to this point. The legs are sore, but only as you'd expect it - they're not exactly used to going up and down mountains! They are just about feeling strong enough that I now have confidence that baring injury or disaster we'll get round fine, which is an improvement in confidence levels compared to before we started!!
Cracking account so far. Sounds like you're coming into form nicely and will be a vertiable mountain goat by the end of the trip!
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
Billy M, well done - a good read. Nice to see some pictures though!
You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
Billy M, excellent account ... re knee-bugggering descents; are you using walking poles? Joe Simpson's experience got me into using them, at a time they were considered mad. I now use them all the time and my knees have progressed from impossibly painful to agreeably tolerable - sometimes use one pole but mostly two on Alpine descents - bought Leki titanium since they have 'inbuilt spring' in the metal, and much better than the aluminium ones (too stiff) with a spring mechanism included. Ti ones are indeed more expensive but not punitively so, and mine have lasted 18 years of abuse.
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
valais2, yup I have poles, and springy ones at that. I think it's more that the legs are doing things they've not been asked to do in many a year, plus they were less than perfect to start with after rugby made a mess of them. To be honest, I don't know where I'd be without the poles, they're a bit of a life saver. We're a few days on from the above reports now and while the uphill seems to be getting easier and easier, the downhill is agony. I know I'd be even worse without the poles though.
The Flying Snowplough, yeah am feeling pretty good, and the uphill is feeling easier than it did at the start. Not quite at mountain goat levels yet though - I bet those fellashave no problems going downhill!!
pam w, I'm afraid with my lack of knowledge on how to put pics up and only having an iphone with me, I will have to wait until I'm home and edit the posts to add pics, sorry.
Will update the daily reports when I get a mo....
Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Day 5:
Rest day in Courmayeur.
The legs don't really feel much different for it, but very nice to have a day off all the same. Knowing there was no walking to get up for, we allowed last night's beers to go on longer than they would have done otherwise. Plus the pizza was big enough to soak up quite a few of them!!
Courmayeur is a nice town, and we've a hotel just off the main street which is perfectly pleasant. Went up the (soon to be no more) cable car to see Mt Blanc up close. The weather so far has meant we've not even seen The Mountain yet, but today is a beautiful day so we've finally caught sight. Nice trip although, to be honest, the trip up from Chamonix side to the Aguille du Midi is a far better one I think. We were disappointed not to be able to do the Hellbroner bubble, which is closed. It seems that it will be better next year (Italian efficiency depending) when the new cable car opens.
Other than that it was a relaxing day in the sunshine in Courmayeur, involving ice cream, snoozing and not a lot else. Very welcome.
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Day 6:
Courmayeur to Rifugio Bonatti. Pretty easy day. 6 hours. Lovely weather and views - the best views of the trip so far, certainly helped by a cloudless, hot day. And the best and worst of Italian rifugios.
The day starts immediately with a climb, out of town and into the woods, just to remind the legs you're here for a walk, not a holiday!!! Stopped for a picnic breakfast by the river then on up the track, fortunately in the woods so shaded from the hot sun. Relatively steep climb but the legs are starting to get used to this now...
After a couple of hours we reached the Rifugio Bertone at the top of the climb. We'd been unsure from here which route to take to the Bonatti - the simple TMB route which only involves just over a couple more hours of pretty flat walking (a bit too short a day, almost) or the higher/longer route along the Mont de la Saxe ridge.
It was only 11.35am (this bit is important!) when we arrived at the Bertone hut, a bit early for lunch, so we asked if we could buy a sarnie to take away (thinking we'd eat it later on, on the longer route). Even though mother and 2 daughters plus 2 men in the kitchen were all stood around doing f**k all, this was not possible, as they 'stop making sandwiches at 11.30am' and lunch (not sandwiches!!) doesn't start until 12.30. I tell a lie - 1 of the girls was doing something, just to prove there was bread (for, say, a sandwich!) she was putting this out on (an empty) neighbouring table. Italians!!!!!! To be fair, the dog was very friendly.
This kind of made our minds up. We had a few snacks in our packs but not really enough to call lunch and confidently strike out on the long route. And by waiting for lunch to begin, then order, then eat it we felt it'd be too late to go long. Short route it is then.
(Plus, to be honest, the still-really-sore-even-after-a-rest-day knees were happy not to go any higher, as they didn't really fancy the subsequent descent)
Despite now having the luxury of time, we were bugggered if we were going to wait around here to give them our lunch business, so we carried on slowly via plenty of lazy stops in the sunshine to gawp at the views/eat the cakes left over from breakfast.
Fortunately it's mostly flat/undulating all the way to the overnight stop. But even the small amount of downhill there was confirmed that my knees were still truly a mess from that descent 2 days ago. Really painful. Otherwise an easy day, a short walk with only the early climb out of Courmayeur to trouble the legs.
Anyway, the Rigugio Bonatti righted the wrongs of Bertone. Great hut, by far the best we've experienced. Couple of beers in the sun on the grass overlooking the most amazing views. Wow.
Concoction of knee-defeating anti-inflamatories and painkillers for dinner tonight and breakfast tomorrow!!!
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Day 7:
Rifugio Bonatti to La Fouly, via Grand Col Ferret. 7hrs 40mins, long day and another high Col. Poor weather to start, lovely later.
The forecast had been good but we started off in fairly murky conditions and on/off rain for the first couple of hours which meant annoyingly frequent donning and removal of jacket as it was too warm to wear it when it wasn't raining. Later on it perked up and the sun came out.
Bit of a strange day all in all - I thought my knee was conned into being no problem by all the drugs, but an early, short descent proved that wrong sadly. But a much longer climb followed to the 2537m Grand Col Ferret. Against all expectation we really seem to be 'warming to the task' on the climbing front. It was quite long and steep, but seemed much easier than similar climbs did almost a week ago. Up and up we went.
Great views back down the Italian side of the Col, but a little less inspiring towards Switzerland.
A lot more snow on the north facing Swiss side on the descent to a late lunch. All of a sudden the prices have doubled, must be in Switzerland now!!! Oh my knees!!!!! It really is making it difficult to enjoy the descending part. I'm really hoping it'll just ease up a bit as they get used to it, rather than blighting me for the rest of the walk. Anyway, I promise not to say any more about it...!
Staying in La Fouly, which is really rather pleasant and relatively alive for a tiny village in a dead end valley, and compared to how dead such a similar place would be in France (Les Contamines was about 10 times the size and about 1/10 as busy!). Also it has a chairlift for skiing and the boozer does a mean Rosti avec oeuf. What more do you need?!?!
Tomorrow appears to be the easiest day of the trip. To my knees' relief. Promise broken already.
La Fouly to Champex Lac. Easiest day so far. 5 hours and no big climbs.
Today was a pretty easy and relaxing day all in all. The route included no high Cols to climb and no big descents either. The weather was good but hot, so probably a good job it was easy going.
We had a lie in before leaving so no breakfast today. The first half of the walk was mostly following a river gently down the valley, followed by a picnic lunch on a moraine.
After that the route wandered through 2 or 3 beautiful villages full of chalets that only the Swiss could pull off. They know how to make a chalet!
The final hour or so to Champex is a climb of about 400m, which might have caused us a bit more of a problem a week ago. Now though it was no problem and we got up pretty quickly, although it was pretty hot and muggy, so sweaty work!
We got to Champex and into a hotel just in the nick of time - a storm arrived and the heavens opened a couple of minutes after we arrived - we'd have been soaked through in minutes in that kind of rain had it arrived 30 minutes earlier.
We've got a spare day in our plans, and had earmarked Champex as potentially another place for a rest day. But on arriving here it really is pretty sleepy and looks like we'd be pretty bored with a day here, so we thought maybe we should push on tomorrow. But then again there's no obvious places further on to have a day off, so maybe push through to the finish in 1 go...?
Anyway, we found a really rather comfortable hotel so decision made, we'll stay for a rest day here. Which allows us to get some boozing done tonight.
Sadly Champex is even quieter than it first appeared, with not even a single bar open tonight!! So not the best choice for a rest stop!!!
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Day 9:
Rest day in Champex Lac.
It's a slightly depressing place, to be honest. Quite a pretty spot, with a lake right beside, and if you head right to the south end of the village there are some great views over the valley below. But not much else going on. Our hotel is nice and relaxing though.
We slept long and late, which was much needed. Legs are very happy at not getting up early and heading into the hills!! Eventually surfaced and headed out for a leisurely lunch and guide book/map reading/planning the next few days. To be honest, it looks like the final stretch is going to be fairly straight forward, famous last words....
That over confidence will no doubt be shoved back down our throats with a killer final 4 days....!
Anyway, a wander round the lake later and we were back at the hotel for some feet-up book reading. There is a big outdoor heated pool here in Champex that we were going to go and have a laze in, but the weather is a bit ropey today and we're quite high here and so pretty chilly out today, so we wimped out!!
Tomorrow begins the final push. 4 more days of walking, the last 2 at least look to have more amazing views, and tomorrow will either be relatively simple or the hardest day yet, depending which route we choose/the weather allows...
Sad that it's coming towards the end, it's been an amazing trip. (I thought rafting the Grand Canyon would never be equalled, but this experience comes close).
After all it is free
After all it is free
mooney058, I got a snap the other day of a butterfly taking a rest on my right knee, but to be honest he's the star of the pic, not my knee!
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
Sounds fun- I concur with your view on Champex, bit of faded grandeur. However, the scenery more than compensates!
I guess by the time you read this you'll have encountered the descent to Trient. I wish your knees the best of luck, particularly if you do/did the fenetre d'arpette!
Trient to Argentiere (or wherever you stop, I'd recommend Argentiere) is a very pleasant and easy day.
If you're planning to do teh final days descent on foot (brevent to les houches) as opposed to cable car, then take lots of nurofen first...
Ski the Net with snowHeads
Ski the Net with snowHeads
Day 10:
Champex Lac to Trient via Alp Bovine and Col de la Forclaz. 5hrs 30mins, not too easy/not too hard.
There was a decision today as to whether to be tough men and take the alternative route. All along this was the one variante to the main route I wanted to do most of all as it's supposed to be a goody, over the Fenetre d'Arpette. Legs were certainly ready for the challenge of the significant uphill, and ready to do their best on the down. Unfortunately the weather was looking pretty average up high, the cloud base being well below the top of the climb, so views would be zero and it'd be pretty dull climbing in the cloud. Girly 'normal' route for us then!
It was a hot and humid climb today!! We'd left Champex in warm sunshine and ambled down a nice gentle downhill for about an hour before it turned uphill, and fairly steeply, for the climb through the forest to Alp Bovine and just over 2000m.
Plenty of stream crossings on the way up, which proved a handy opportunity to douse ourselves with cold water, very welcome.
It was a good climb all in all, suitably hard work in the heat but good fun, and a fine picnic lunch at the very top. Here we were just below the cloud level, and with the other route being 600m higher, it was probably a good choice we made.
On the way down, at Col de la Forclaz, we had a long backwards and forwards as to what we should do now, and thus for the next couple of days - both the last 2 days and the next 3 seem to be somewhere between being either too short or too long, depending on where you stop for the night.
In theory the plan has us stopping here for the night, but it seemed too short a day and we wanted to carry on. But just round the corner is the next big climb, the Col de Balme, and to add that in this afternoon is possibly a bit too much given it's now gone 3pm (we should have started earlier and we'd have made it). Also that then makes the next few days too short. Or maybe do that and squeeze 3 days into 2 as they all now seem too short (especially if we make use of a downhill cable car)? Choices choices.
Eventually decided to continue the short distance to Trient and stay there and decide on our future over a beer or two...!
The answer seems to be that the next 3 days may each be quite short, but it's not simple to cut them down to 2, so so be it.
We'll see what unfolds....
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
Hi snowdave. We didn't do the Arpette sadly. Next time maybe...
The descent to Trient wasn't too bad - still painful obviously, but more manageable than a few days ago, maybe all the pills are working their magic!!
Yes, we have a cable car option for downhills both tomorrow and the final day as far as we can work out from their respective website's opening times pages. The temptation may be too great to resist...!
Cheers
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Day 11:
Trient to Argentiere, via Col de Balme. 6 hours (although not as long actually walking as it sounds as we spent time sitting at the Col admiring the view, lunch stop in Le Tour and hotel searching). Hot and sunny.
Leaving Trient it's almost immediately into the hard work - up a steep wooded hillside, the path zigzags upwards for what seems like forever! It was very hot too, so we were disgustingly sweaty!! Legs were on form though, and so by now we're easily beating the times indicated in the guide book, where as a week and a half ago we were behind the pace!
Above the treeline the views opened up, the gradient got shallower and the air was much cooler. Together with the streams to cool off in, all was good. After somewhere around 2 hours of uphill we got to the top (2200m) of one of the longer climbs and sat in the grass eating Snickers and admiring the view.
The Col de Balme marks the crossing back into France, and with it the return of the BIG scenery!! The Swiss leg had been good but more gentle and calm, nothing like the drama of the French & Italian scenery. It's good to be back and in sight of Mont Blanc, and fortunately in sunshine.
Down in Le Tour (via a short descent initially in foot then a gondola for the short hop between mid-station and village level), we had lunch and set about working out where to stay tonight - Le Tour/Montroc/Tre-Le-Champ/Argentiere?
After so many nights up mountains and in small ghost towns, and now within reach of civilisation, we fancied a bit of luxury (ideally a pool or hot tub to soak weary limbs) and a bit of a town for food tonight. All things pointed to Argentiere so we set off for the walk down the valley.
Reaching Argentiere, we bypassed a couple of perfectly pleasant looking hotels, we had earned a treat and weren't giving up without finding it. Within no time we found ourselves soaking in swimming pool and hot tub type luxury!! Life is good!!
The evening was spent in what there is of a town centre eating and drinking well and planning tomorrow's action. We have big plans for tomorrow...!!!!!
Last edited by And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports. on Sun 29-06-14 20:37; edited 2 times in total
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
Day 12:
Argentiere to Chamonix, via the ladders, Lac Blanc, La Flegere and Plan Praz. 7hrs 30mins, long & hard day, hot & sunny. The views - Wow!!! What a way to finish.
As I said yesterday - big plans for today. We wanted to combine the last 2 days into 1 long one today, for several reasons...
The last few days have seemed too short, you get to lunch having done most of the day's route and feel like you want (and could handle, just about!) more. You don't want to be finishing early afternoon. The next 2 days look to each be short enough that with an early start and a bit of commitment we could knock them both off in a day. (We had decided months ago that on the last stage we would get the cable car rather than walk the 'knee wrecking' last descent to Les Houches, which makes the last stage shorter, adding to the confidence of being able to do it in one). The weather looks good for Friday, iffy for Saturday and with the views supposedly being so good we'd like to do it all in the sunny conditions of Friday (and Friday morning at that, as that's when the weather will be at it's best, possibility of clouding over in the afternoon). And finally, our legs can handle it, easy!! (Maybe)
So that was the plan, but with several get out of jail cards at the ready, in the form of huts to sleep at on the way, should we fail.
With it being a long day ahead, and the best of the weather due for the morning, it was an early start in the hope of getting the best views while the weather was good. It was a plan that worked...!!!!
I was first for breakfast at the hotel, even going in 10 mins before it officially opened. We got a bus back up the valley to Tre-le-Champ, where we had come down from yesterday - no need to repeat miles we've already done.
The climbing starts straight away, but also the views are immediately there, so spirits are high. It's also hot and sunny, perfect.
Soon we get above the trees and the views are stunning, what a place. We get to the ladders that go up the rock face and head up. I always thought I was good with heights, but it's pretty nerve-racking stuff in parts, with there seeming to be nothing below your feet all the way to Argentiere thousands of feet below - a strong head for heights is required, but it's a brilliant experience. Better in hindsight than at the time, to be honest, but brilliant all the same.
Both above and below this section there is a bouquetin (according to some locals) who is following us - he seems almost inquisitive of us, coming right up close to check us out. He's got surer feet than us on these rocks!!
At the top of the ladders we stopped for a good while to just stare at it all, take pics and eat snacks. It was while we were looking at the stunning valley and mountains all around us (with cable cars and mountain railways to take you here and there to give access to a world of fun in the most amazing setting - hiking, mountain biking, skiing etc.) that we wondered why we didn't live here. The lifestyle would be amazing, all these things to get out and do and see every day. (Of course there's an easy answer to this - our jobs!). I'm not entirely sure the constant mass of tourists wouldn't get a little tiring after a while, I'm not sure I could live in such a touristy town. But I guess that's the price you pay to live somewhere with so much on offer - it's the tourists that keep the lifts running year round, and it's the amazing surroundings and what they offer that they come for too. When I get home I'll no doubt be searching the estate agents' sites to see what I could swap my Hove flat for in Chamonix...!
Anyway...
Next is a choice of traversing to La Flegere (the easier, normal route) or continuing up to Lac Blanc (the variante - higher, longer and great views). We're making good time and so the decision is easy. More stunning views at every turn on the way up, what would we have done before digital cameras?!?!
It's been all uphill so far, but with frequent picture/gawping in amazement stops, it's been easy going. Lunch at the top, the high point of today at 2350m, and quickly onwards for the descent to La Flegere. The knees are feeling as good as they have done in over a week, since before Italy, so it's quickly down, sidestepping the many Japanese as we go. This section (from just above the ladders to Lac Blanc to La Flegere to Plan Praz) is beautiful, but is also a long way from the early days of our walk in the more remote sections when we could go for a whole day and only see a couple of other people. The by product of all these cable cars is that, relatively speaking, it's like Piccadilly Circus up here. They deliver people in their 100's (number, not age!) who otherwise wouldn't get anywhere near these views. The good weather also exaggerates this today.
At La Flegere and the supposed end of today's route, it's only early afternoon, so on we go towards Plan Praz. It's a scenic traverse of a couple of hours between 2 mid stations of the various ski areas, but gets away from the ski runs and is stunning in parts - balcony-type paths with great views of Mt Blanc, and scrambling over rock slides. It's our last section of the walk, and we're tired in the legs and almost out of water, but it's a great end. Small sting in the tail is an unexpected climb to Plan Praz, but there's a restaurant waiting to celebrate the ending with a cold Coke! The beers will come tonight...
We'd often wondered why the traditional start point of the Tour was Les Houches, as there are plenty of similar villages you could start at at different parts of the route. But today it all became obvious - it's not about the start, it's about ending on a high, saving the best until last. Today has been a series of jaw dropping moments, just brilliant. Chamonix sits in a charmed position in the world!!
Down on the bubble to Chamonix and straight to the tourist office to find a hotel for the night - it's busy as it's a Friday and there is a series of marathons and assorted races today and over the weekend, so not many beds available in town. I suppose we could stay out of town and walk, but by now we're thinking walking is for mugs!!
There's only a few places with rooms, and one is right here in the centre and with a roof top pool/hot tub affair that sounds like just the ticket for our knackered legs! It's not cheap but we wander over to find the (typically arrogant, rude, superior) receptionist quote us significantly more than the tourist office girl had said it would cost, and well out of our budget (she looks like she knew that would be the case). We go outside, get wifi fired up, book it on Expedia for less than half the price she quoted, walk back in and hand her the confirmation - we like to think she missed out on a fair chunk of cash, especially after Expedia take their chunk!
Roof top hot tubs are the only way to end a long day of walking! We soaked for a loooong time and it felt great. However, over dinner that evening it became clear that our pride in ourselves for having completed the Tour du Mont Blanc was a little overshadowed. We were as pleased as punch with our 'heroics', but there were a handful of people running past to great applause (there was none of that for our arrival in town!) from the crowds, putting our smug satisfaction with our so called achievements firmly into place.
There was a race on, and the runners passing the two of us stuffing our fat faces with pizza were 16 hours in (having started at 4am) and just 30 seconds from finishing their race. 80km and over 6000m of climbing/descending justified their looks of pain. We cheered them on and patted ourselves on the back in the knowledge that we'd done significantly more km and height than them, and quietly ignored the fact that it had taken us 10 days of walking (and 12 days overall), rather than their 16 hours of running! Impressive effort (them, not us!).
A few hours of drinking later and we were back from the bar to cheer a few more of the stragglers home, before falling into bed.
What a couple of weeks. A stunning corner of the world, and the Tour du Mont Blanc is an amazing way to get in amongst the scenery and really take it all in.
Oh, and I'm really rather proud of my legs - tired of course, but they felt better at the end of the last day than they did at the end of the first, which is amazing really given all the problems I thought they might give me. Still going strong and at a far faster rate than they were a couple of weeks ago.
Last edited by So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much on Sun 29-06-14 20:47; edited 3 times in total
You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
That was a few days ago now, sorry for the delay updating - we were a little busy with the last couple of days of the walk and the journey home.
We finished on Friday and drove home on Saturday, and on leaving the mountain tops were shrouded in cloud - a good decision to do it all yesterday! It was an amazing trip and we were incredibly lucky with the weather on the big view days.
Many thanks to everyone for the helpful advice earlier in this thread. I'll go back through this at some point and add some pics to the posts. I've got a load from my iphone (which probably won't do it justice), or with a longer wait I'll get all the pics from my brother who had a proper camera and so the pics will no doubt be better. Between us we have over 600 I think, so there'll be a bit of editing required to get it down to a manageable number!!
Lots of afterthoughts, which I won't bore you with here. But suffice to say that I'm very pleased we did it!!
I watched them set off and the first dozen or so return back in 2004. And they all looked as though they could nip round again!
Oh yer, and congratulations on a fantastic trip!
Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Yeah - 'I can't believe those nutters run the whole thing in 20 hours' was said most days. Unbelievable really. It must ruin their bodies.
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Not sure. All the finishers that I saw must have been in their 40s - some possibly in their 50s. All built like racing snakes mind
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Congrats. Its an amazing hike - I've hiked thousands of miles all over the world and the TMB is still I think the single best combination of wilderness, scenery, civilisation, culture, history and people.
For 3 years (I think) the UTMB winner was Marco Olmo, a local chap (Italian side) who was, I think 58-59yrs old.
Thanks Billy - great write-up. I know the area well from skiing and mountaineering (in my youth). Haven't walked the TMB but we will spending most summer holidays (as well as skiing) based in Les Contamines from next year so it's definitely on the to do list.
"Its an amazing hike - I've hiked thousands of miles all over the world and the TMB is still I think the single best combination of wilderness, scenery, civilisation, culture, history and people."
That's a good endorsement. I walked the GR20 some years ago which I absolutely adored and thoroughly recommend. Billy, now you have warmed your knees up perhaps you should put that one on your list for some REAL descents
jedster, hi does this mean you are buying a property in les contamines as you can probably see i have a small place there .If i can be of any help or perhaps we could meet up for a drink pm me. There are other people on here who have properties there.
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
thanks brock, yes - we bought a place in Les C in April (nr Ty Briez). We'd already plans for this summer so won't be there until the ski season. I'll give you a shout nearer then!
After all it is free
After all it is free
cheers
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
That's the Corsica one, isn't it jedster? That was one of the options for this holiday that was discussed last year when we were thinking of what to do - we were weighing up either the GR20 or the TMB, the TMB won us over though and I'm glad it did as I believe the GR20 is significantly harder, so better to cut our teeth on this (and it seems like a good decision from what snowdave says!). It was suggested that we maybe try the GR20 next time though, and I've been to Corsica a few times with work and always thought it looks absolutely stunning and would love to visit one day. We'll see...
You'll have some good stuff around you in Les Contamines - I thought the best part of the TMB was the 3 days we had after staying there (our days 2-4), so all quite local to you.
Yes brock, the one we saw was the 80km race, not the full TMB circuit. Still a damn fine effort though, we were impressed!
Ski the Net with snowHeads
Ski the Net with snowHeads
brock, there's the marathon which is of standard length but also the 80km...
FAQ
Poster: A snowHead
