The storm came approx. 4 hours earlier than expected.
Maybe I missed it - is that actually correct?
No, it isn't.
I'm going off what I heard (or misheard) in the video (I understand German).
Is there a report that details when the storm was due to hit and when it actually started?
to quote from the video "According to forecasts the weather would remain stable until 2pm and only worse after that" and later "snowfall and gusts of winds of over 100kph but only around 2pm". The groups had hoped to make it down to the Vignettes by noon. In fact the conditions were already execrable at 10pm. They left the Dix at around 6am and arrived at the foot of the Serpentine around 9am (all three groups were more or less together, House was aware of the other groups at this point). At this point it had started to snow and the wind was getting up. Visibility in the valley was ok but not so good higher up, when they reached the top of the Serpentine shortly before 10am for House's group it was already a whiteout "the storm hit 4 hours earlier than forecast"
Was a big debate back then. In short: Foehn storm was announced to hit by the weather apps at 1400 in Arolla. First clouds creeping up the back side of the Pigne isn't any deviation from that.
The storm was supposed to hit at 14:00, that we agree on. You can see in the video that the conditions around 10:00 were more than a few clouds.
I stand by what I said, the storm started approx. 4 hours earlier.
You are free to disagree with me but please back up your claims with info. (I see nothing that you have presented that backs up your claim that I was wrong.)
PS you are also free to apologise if you incorrectly call someone out on the internet.
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
davidof wrote:
phil_w wrote:
Anyway, someone here said one could not reasonably descend Serpentine in a white out, roped up, on skis. Is that correct?
They would have killed themselves if they'd tried. They could have downclimbed with crampons but not easy with skis on your back and it was a very big group with just one guide to control. The point of no return for them was effectively at the foot of the Serpentine at 9am. The weather was worse than when they left the hut but they still had visibility and probably hoped to be at the Vignettes by midday.
Agree. This is the crux of the Serpentine. There was exposed ice when we did it, steep and exposure below so not a place you’d want to be wandering around in a whiteout
I believe this is where they ended up so not much further once they’d cleared the crux
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
@BobinCH, thanks for posting the fatmap information, that gives a much better overview of the route.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
DB wrote:
The storm was supposed to hit at 14:00, that we agree on. You can see in the video that the conditions around 10:00 were more than a few clouds.
I stand by what I said, the storm started approx. 4 hours earlier.
I read the link above and it doesn't alter what was said on the video, so I agree with you. The link was debating whether or not the storm was forecast, not the time. The three groups who set out for the Vignettes may have been wrong in their reading of the weather. As the Italian said, a French guide had warned him not to go due to the weather forecast so clearly other groups didn't think there was sufficient window to make the crossing.
[one could not reasonably descend Serpentine in a white out] ..... This is the crux of the Serpentine. There was exposed ice when we did it, steep and exposure below so not a place you’d want to be wandering around in a whiteout ...
Thanks - useful. If you could make them smaller they'd be better though
The rescued parties would likely have known who House was, and may well not have known what preparations he'd made, the equipment he carried, or the competence of his crew.
There's a great summer shot of the Vignettes hut from what may be those cairns on the home page here.
Anyone got a link to the Swiss police/ coroner's report? The actual source for all this?
davidof wrote:
.. a French guide had warned him not to go due to the weather forecast so clearly other groups didn't think [it was a good idea to attempt the route].
Everybody except Mario successfully used that same forecast to avoid death. When Mario was at his "point of no return", as above, the video shows the weather was terrible. The storm was early, and he knew it because he was in it. At that point he could have turned around, but he made the other choice. So the forecast is moot m'lord
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
phil_w wrote:
Everybody except Mario successfully used that same forecast to avoid death.
But there were 3 separate groups that took the route given the forecast? Yes, only people from Mario's group died but that seemed more luck than judgement.
phil_w wrote:
When Mario was at his "point of no return", as above, the video shows the weather was terrible. The storm was early, and he knew it because he was in it. At that point he could have turned around, but he made the other choice. So the forecast is moot m'lord
Maybe I am misreading what was said above but I understand going back in a whiteout was as difficult as going forward?
After all it is free
After all it is free
@Layne, the weather looked pretty crap when they were getting ready to climb the serpentine. That would have been an opportunity to bin it and go back to the Dix hut or down to Arolla
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@Arno, yeah, I get there is a timing thing with the turning back.
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Interesting that Tommaso Piccioli said the helmet he wore was responsible for his survival, presumably because of the weather protection it gave him?
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
This extract in german is basically saying that the weather at the next hut (Castiglioni die Vignettes) was really bad with strong winds in the morning and had the guides phoned ahead (which is normal practice esp. to secure a booking) it would have made very clear that the they should have remained where they were in the Dix Hut
"Bilanz des Sturms
Aber schon so früh am Morgen war der Wind so stark, dass die Bergführer jedem Gast einzeln bei der Bewältigung der kurzen Strecke von der Hütte zu der Stelle auf der windabgewandten Seite des Grats helfen mussten, wo die Gäste die Ski anschnallen und die Abfahrt beginnen konnten. Folglich war der Sturm bei der Vignettes-Hütte laut Smart schon „in vollem Gange“, als Castiglionis Gruppe erst dabei war, die Dix-Hütte zu verlassen. Abgesehen davon, dass die Wettervorhersagen, die Smart die ganze Woche verfolgte, allen Bergführern zugänglich waren, sind die Hütten auch untereinander telefonisch verbunden. Ein kurzer Anruf vor Aufbruch von der Dix-Hütte hätte die nötigen Informationen darüber geliefert, wie schlecht das Wetter am Ziel schon zu diesem Zeitpunkt war.
Ein kurzer Anruf hätte genügt
Außerdem wäre es zu erwarten gewesen – wenn auch kein Muss –, dass ein Bergführer im Falle einer Planänderung bei der nächsten Hütte anruft, um sicherzustellen, dass es dort genügend Schlafplätze für alle gibt. Castiglioni wählte als neues Etappenziel seiner Gruppe die Vignettes-Hütte anstatt der Nacamuli-Hütte. Die lokale Polizei aber habe Piccioli laut dessen Aussage erzählt, dass die Hüttenwirte der Vignettes-Hütte keinen Anruf erhalten hatten. Ein Aufbruch der Gruppe ist überhaupt schwer vorstellbar, hätte Castiglioni die Vignettes-Hütte kontaktiert."
Last edited by snowHeads are a friendly bunch. on Thu 11-05-23 11:12; edited 1 time in total
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
DB wrote:
Interesting that Tommaso Piccioli said the helmet he wore was responsible for his survival, presumably because of the weather protection it gave him?
Elsewhere he says it was eating a lot in the Dix which saved him, if I my subtitles are correct. I think he may have also suggested that it was odd that his crew weren't so equipped.
I have a ski touring helmet, but don't ski tour. How many tourers here don't use helmets?
I certainly used one in this terrain in summer, although that's a different risk mix.
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
phil_w wrote:
DB wrote:
Interesting that Tommaso Piccioli said the helmet he wore was responsible for his survival, presumably because of the weather protection it gave him?
Elsewhere he says it was eating a lot in the Dix which saved him, if I my subtitles are correct. I think he may have also suggested that it was odd that his crew weren't so equipped.
I have a ski touring helmet, but don't ski tour. How many tourers here don't use helmets?
I certainly used one in this terrain in summer, although that's a different risk mix.
Never say no to the extra slice of apple pie and that last glass of Cornalin in the Vignettes!
You hardly see anyone wearing a helmet on multi-day Tours like that. You’d just get too hot as it’s usually baking in Spring once the sun is up.
You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
Today is the anniversary of another famous tragedy where the weather came in early… recounted in one of the great adventure stories - Into Thin Air by John Krakauer
The storm was supposed to hit at 14:00, that we agree on. You can see in the video that the conditions around 10:00 were more than a few clouds.
I stand by what I said, the storm started approx. 4 hours earlier.
I read the link above and it doesn't alter what was said on the video, so I agree with you. The link was debating whether or not the storm was forecast, not the time. The three groups who set out for the Vignettes may have been wrong in their reading of the weather. As the Italian said, a French guide had warned him not to go due to the weather forecast so clearly other groups didn't think there was sufficient window to make the crossing.
Yes the link is debating another point about the weather.
I just went back and looked again at a few sections of the video clip. 21:30 onwards - All three groups knew there was bad weather coming but they specifically state that the bad weather was expected from 14:00 onwards. The good weather in the morning probably gave them a false sense of security too. I do however agree with you that you can't rely on weather reports to the hour, esp. in the mountains.
I'm surprised that the french group only rely on a map & compass (no GPS) although I guess they have phones with GPS.
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
phil_w wrote:
I have a ski touring helmet, but don't ski tour. How many tourers here don't use helmets?
Only if there is a danger of rockfall.
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
@DB, yep - he has a seriously impressive CV in alpinism
I generally tour to ride big lines rather than for long point-to-point distances so I do usually bring a helmet. It will be on my pack when touring though if the sun's out.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Forgive the ignorant question, but does the word 'tour' actually mean 'walk uphill' (or at least walk where it would not be possible to ski downhill)?
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
@DB, thank you. That'll be a yes, then.
After all it is free
After all it is free
Quote:
I take it it's the same Steve House?
I think they point out at the start of the video that it's not his first rodeo. It is an important factor both in the debate here and also what happened, IMHO. If you don't know who he is, mind, you definitely don't want to follow his tracks.
I'm not sure where this image is from exactly, but this I believe is the actual GPS track as recorded by the Mario's group:
That 09:00 marker is I think the "point of no return". They actually got up the first steep (the skin track I think) pretty well. Maybe the House's track was there. Then they turn south west, which is completely wrong. I think the video said that the French guys (with the compass and paper maps) were lost over in that direction, so possibly they had left a track heading that way for Mario to follow.
I've only been there in summer, when it's a "snow plod" - an easy walk in snow.
When I was a lad "the High Route" (it was uncool for climbers to call it the Haute Route then) was "ski mountaineering", which seems to me to have been subsumed into "touring" these days. I suppose actually descending the north face of the Pigne would be "ski mountaineering" still. House is a mountaineer.
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Hurtle wrote:
@DB, thank you. That'll be a yes, then.
What I tell people is - if you wouldn't enjoying hiking up a mountain in summer you probably won't enjoy ski touring.
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phil_w wrote:
Quote:
I take it it's the same Steve House?
I think they point out at the start of the video that it's not his first rodeo. It is an important factor both in the debate here and also what happened, IMHO. If you don't know who he is, mind, you definitely don't want to follow his tracks.
I'm not sure where this image is from exactly, but this I believe is the actual GPS track as recorded by the Mario's group:
That 09:00 marker is I think the "point of no return". They actually got up the first steep (the skin track I think) pretty well. Maybe the House's track was there. Then they turn south west, which is completely wrong. I think the video said that the French guys (with the compass and paper maps) were lost over in that direction, so possibly they had left a track heading that way for Mario to follow.
I've only been there in summer, when it's a "snow plod" - an easy walk in snow.
When I was a lad "the High Route" (it was uncool for climbers to call it the Haute Route then) was "ski mountaineering", which seems to me to have been subsumed into "touring" these days. I suppose actually descending the north face of the Pigne would be "ski mountaineering" still. House is a mountaineer.
This is not meant as any criticism of Steve House (who seems like an excellent guide as well as an excellent climber) but in general I don't think it is a given that the greatest mountaineers would make the best decisions when guiding a group of clients. You don't get to be a UIAGM guide without spending an awful lot of time in the mountains and every UIAGM guide is a highly capable mountaineer. A guide outside the absolute elite MIGHT have more empathy for mere mortals like their clients. And in the case of this disaster I doubt it was House's MOUNTAINEERING CV that allowed him to get his clients through this, more high levels of professionalism as a GUIDE.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
Moreover, Mario was a mountaineer too. He had several 8000m peak on his CV too.
We would never know what went through Mario’s mind that led him to continue on when the weather had clearly changed for the worse when the group transition from skiing to skinning. Perhaps seeing House’s group ahead gave him confirmation the route can be done even in “a bit of weather”?
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
It must be difficult for a guide to turn his group around when another guided group plus a group without a guide don‘t turn around.
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
phil_w wrote:
Quote:
I take it it's the same Steve House?
I think they point out at the start of the video that it's not his first rodeo. It is an important factor both in the debate here and also what happened, IMHO. If you don't know who he is, mind, you definitely don't want to follow his tracks. .
I‘ve read some of his books but only just realised recently it was the same guy.
You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
abc wrote:
Moreover, Mario was a mountaineer too. He had several 8000m peak on his CV too.
We would never know what went through Mario’s mind that led him to continue on when the weather had clearly changed for the worse when the group transition from skiing to skinning. Perhaps seeing House’s group ahead gave him confirmation the route can be done even in “a bit of weather”?
A Himalayan mountaineer. Every UIAGM guide is a mountaineer.
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
davidof wrote:
DB wrote:
The storm was supposed to hit at 14:00, that we agree on. You can see in the video that the conditions around 10:00 were more than a few clouds.
I stand by what I said, the storm started approx. 4 hours earlier.
I read the link above and it doesn't alter what was said on the video, so I agree with you. The link was debating whether or not the storm was forecast, not the time. The three groups who set out for the Vignettes may have been wrong in their reading of the weather. As the Italian said, a French guide had warned him not to go due to the weather forecast so clearly other groups didn't think there was sufficient window to make the crossing.
The real question here is, if anyone right minded can state he's been let down by the weather forecast. And the answer is no. Meteo apps showing foehn collapse and wind gusts of 100km/h at 14pm for Arolla village(!) doesn't mean you can be sure 2000m higher up south on the main ridge everything has to be hunky dory until 13:59pm. Rising winds and clouds creeping over at 10am is just no contradiction to that. It's a confirmation.
But no need to take it from me, take it from Mr. Arolla mountaineering himself, Dédé Anzévui:
"André Anzévui se souvient très bien de ce qu'il faisait le dimanche 29 avril 2018, ou plutôt «le jour de l'accident», comme il l'appelle depuis. «J'étais chez moi, à Arolla. Je me préparais pour aller skier dans la région du Mont Fort. J'ai regardé la météo comme chaque matin, et quand j'ai vu qu'un front de mauvais temps venait du sud et entrait vers 8 h 30 à Arolla, je me suis dit: «J'espère qu'il n'y a pas des fous qui essaient de traverser le Pigne aujourd'hui, car on aura de sérieux problèmes en fin de journée.».»"
And that's exactly what happend, front closing in during the morning, storm in Arolla village at 14pm, storm peaking in the evening. Meteomedia warned of wind gusts of to 200km/h on the highest peaks. The same day two young climbers got blown off descending the Mönch.
At min30:49 there's an original picture shown in the film taken from the Dix hut at dawn. Had there been open questions about the weather this view in itself should have held all the answers:
Some speculation: House talked it through with his clients and they obviously wanted the T-Shirt. I highly doubt the French would have gone without a guided group in front of them. And about Mario not calling Vignettes, perhaps he still carried some hope they could reach Nacamuli?
I assume House also had a smaller group? Hadn’t really picked up on the size of the group until I watched the start of the documentary
2 clients I think.
He must have seen other groups on the same route so did he ever wonder where they were heading? Not his responsibility I know.
The french with map and compass were no better than the lost Italian guide and in the end had to follow him, or at least follow the client with a working gps.
It truely sounds like that in the beginning ("...two regulars wanted to do the Haute Route..."), but later in the video you can see that House had in fact six clients: two older guys, three younger guys and a women (from 46:28min onwards).
“House’s” group seems to have been 6 in total - 4 clients and 2 guides. House says on the interview at 20m52s that from Dix he teamed up with another guide who he was friends with - Simon Duverney. From the videos taken by House’s group I count 5 in addition to whoever was filming. It’s also clear from photos/discussion that both House and Duverney were in the Dix together and both were also in the Vignettes together the following day. Whilst it feels like this group was also sailing a bit close to the wind, they had two guides who had clearly carefully assessed the risk and taken steps to mitigate. Two well prepared guides, who know/trust each other, who have an up-to-date GPS track, who between them have skied the route in the last two weeks, and only 4 clients (and at least House’s two he knew well, they were regulars) is a markedly different situation and risk profile to Mario’s group.
Tristero wrote:
I wonder as well. He surely knew they were there on top of Serpentine. He filmed them there, and the athmosphere must have already been tense from the get go. So it was clear the others were trying to bridge over to Vignettes as well. And it was clear that climbing down the steep pitch of Serpentine wasn't really an option. He then didn't want to band together with them which is very understandable on so many levels. Wasn't really nice though, was it?
I wonder, if he had considered talking to the guardian: "There were fourteen people with us on top of Serpentine, did they arrive or are there any no shows?" But then again the guardian might have answered: "Interesting. Why didn't you come together?"
The video from House’s group at 9:52am (37m40s in the film) at the top of the Serpentine shows the French group at the top of the Serpentine, but not the Italians, who were further behind. Skiing back down the Serpentine in icy conditions is clearly no walk in the part and I certainly wouldn’t have wanted to do it. The narrator makes it clear it would not have been a viable option for Mario’s group. But at the same time, I don’t think it’s unskiable for a strong skier. House presumably did it the day before to get back to the Dix after his reconnaissance mission up Pigne d’Arolla. The French were strong skiers - they grew up in Tignes, the two guys were qualified ski instructors and one of them was also in mountain rescue. I’ve wondered a bit about this as well, but it may have been that House/Duverney assumed that the French group must have skied back down the Serpentine when they didn’t show at Vignettes. It’s skated over in the film but it seems that there was a discussion between the Vignettes guardian and House/Duverney about the fact that the French group hadn’t shown (1h12m). But it’s difficult to know what they could have realistically done in those conditions when they had no idea where they were. As House says, had they known they were at the cairns they would have gone out to them but they didn’t know that and there is nothing in the film that makes me think they had any idea the Italians were out there. I have the impression that House himself would have never considered attempting it with the Italian group and they had not booked the Vignettes so it’s reasonable for them to have assumed they’d gone back to Arolla from the bottom of the Serpentine.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Gämsbock wrote:
But at the same time, I don’t think it’s unskiable for a strong skier. House presumably did it the day before to get back to the Dix after his reconnaissance mission up Pigne d’Arolla.
Perfectly skiable in decent viz. Different proposition altogether in whiteout conditions with a large group. There are crevasses and cliffs as you can see from the picture above, and it’s a long way back, especially if they had to ski roped up (which is a nightmare in my experience).
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
@BobinCH, agree, I don’t think it was a possibility for Mario’s group, but I don’t think House saw them at the top of the Serpentine, only at the bottom. What I’m less sure about is the French group. House was at the top of the Serpentine with the French group and it seems like he had a conversation with the Vignettes guardian about them not arriving at Vignettes. Where would they have thought they would have gone? From the top of the Serpentine there seem to be only two possible options - onwards to Vignettes or back down the Serpentine to Dix/Arolla (maybe a third down to Cabane de Chanrion but that looks worse).
@BobinCH, agree, I don’t think it was a possibility for Mario’s group, but I don’t think House saw them at the top of the Serpentine, only at the bottom. What I’m less sure about is the French group. House was at the top of the Serpentine with the French group and it seems like he had a conversation with the Vignettes guardian about them not arriving at Vignettes. Where would they have thought they would have gone? From the top of the Serpentine there seem to be only two possible options - onwards to Vignettes or back down the Serpentine to Dix/Arolla (maybe a third down to Cabane de Chanrion but that looks worse).
Yes either back to Dix or down the Brenay glacier. Never been that way but looks a long way into a storm. If the Vignettes were told there may be people out there they could easily have called the Dix to check. But without knowing for sure they were out there and where they were not really much they could have done other than raise the alarm and get a rescue out early the next morning.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
@BobinCH, agree, there’s no way they could have been expected to go wandering the glacier for them in the middle of a storm, even if they had known/suspected they were “somewhere” between the top of the Serpentine and the Vignettes hut. But if they thought the French could have got back to Dix from the top of the Serpentine they likely assumed that’s what they did when they didn’t show.
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Gämsbock wrote:
Just watched the film - thanks for posting..
“House’s” group seems to have been 6 in total - 4 clients and 2 guides. House says on the interview at 20m52s that from Dix he teamed up with another guide who he was friends with - Simon Duverney. From the videos taken by House’s group I count 5 in addition to whoever was filming. It’s also clear from photos/discussion that both House and Duverney were in the Dix together and both were also in the Vignettes together the following day. Whilst it feels like this group was also sailing a bit close to the wind, they had two guides who had clearly carefully assessed the risk and taken steps to mitigate. Two well prepared guides, who know/trust each other, who have an up-to-date GPS track, who between them have skied the route in the last two weeks, and only 4 clients (and at least House’s two he knew well, they were regulars) is a markedly different situation and risk profile to Mario’s group.
Interesting observation! I'd thought "teaming up" only concerned sharing GPS-tracks. But you're right, they put their groups together. Duverney is the guy sitting right next to House on the dinner photo. Maybe House really had only two clients of his own. One thing though, I think they were seven altogether, not six: House, Duverney, young woman, three bearded younger guys (all sitting at dinner table) plus two shaved older guys, shown clapping in the ski room (blue jacket and red jacket).
Anyhow, having two guides makes quite a difference, I have to give it to House. So thank you very much for pointing this out!
Another interesting point is that this piece of information got totally brushed over in the documentary. They only speak of "House's group" did this and that. Never mentioned explicitly, two guides were guiding probably banding together two groups (very unlikely Duverney was just hanging around at Dix). Would have been interesting to hear from him and some of his clients. Maybe the PGHM member wasn't too keen to expand on this episode?
Tristero wrote:
I wonder as well. He surely knew they were there on top of Serpentine. He filmed them there, and the athmosphere must have already been tense from the get go. So it was clear the others were trying to bridge over to Vignettes as well. And it was clear that climbing down the steep pitch of Serpentine wasn't really an option. He then didn't want to band together with them which is very understandable on so many levels. Wasn't really nice though, was it?
I wonder, if he had considered talking to the guardian: "There were fourteen people with us on top of Serpentine, did they arrive or are there any no shows?" But then again the guardian might have answered: "Interesting. Why didn't you come together?"
The video from House’s group at 9:52am (37m40s in the film) at the top of the Serpentine shows the French group at the top of the Serpentine, but not the Italians, who were further behind. Skiing back down the Serpentine in icy conditions is clearly no walk in the part and I certainly wouldn’t have wanted to do it. The narrator makes it clear it would not have been a viable option for Mario’s group. But at the same time, I don’t think it’s unskiable for a strong skier. House presumably did it the day before to get back to the Dix after his reconnaissance mission up Pigne d’Arolla. The French were strong skiers - they grew up in Tignes, the two guys were qualified ski instructors and one of them was also in mountain rescue. I’ve wondered a bit about this as well, but it may have been that House/Duverney assumed that the French group must have skied back down the Serpentine when they didn’t show at Vignettes. It’s skated over in the film but it seems that there was a discussion between the Vignettes guardian and House/Duverney about the fact that the French group hadn’t shown (1h12m). But it’s difficult to know what they could have realistically done in those conditions when they had no idea where they were. As House says, had they known they were at the cairns they would have gone out to them but they didn’t know that and there is nothing in the film that makes me think they had any idea the Italians were out there. I have the impression that House himself would have never considered attempting it with the Italian group and they had not booked the Vignettes so it’s reasonable for them to have assumed they’d gone back to Arolla from the bottom of the Serpentine.[/quote]
Serpentine is now steeper than described in older SAC guidebooks and often shows bare ice, as already back in the day. It's mostly climbed on foot, especially by guided groups. In the docu it says, "all three groups arrived at the bottom of Serpentine within fifteen minutes", which in itself only makes sense, if they changed on crampons there. Skis on/off, crampons on/off, the climb plus a drink takes a group about an hour. So I stand by what I've written above, they knew the Italiens were coming up as well.
In addition to that, I'm not sure if Mario's group was so much weaker than the others. Nor how anyone could anyone assess this di visu.
About skiability, we don't know if House skied it the day before. Maybe he did it Jeremy-Heitz-style? But if you need to suspect bare ice, even a strong skier would not ski it in whiteout conditions.
But you're right, there's nothing he could have done more from Vignettes. I said so above as well. But I stand by it, I'd feel odd.
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