 Poster: A snowHead
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Thanks alot for this tutorial. I use the same method to wax my board.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Why the final polish? Aren't there meant to be fine grooves in the very thin layer of wax left on the board - all the better to channel the water and make your board move across the compressed snowflakes?
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Zero-G, the final polish doesn't obliterate the fine grooves. It just polishes sort of around them if that makes sense. When i do it, i can still feel the microgrooves with my fingernail. It makes the board go a bit quicker for a short while. It's quite a lot of effort for limited return mind you. I only do it when i use the cold rub on wax which i do on day 3 or so of a week long holiday to freshen up the board halfway through the trip.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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I tried out a silicon product called Zardoz this year and it seemed to work well in the slushy spring snow. No replacement for a decent hot wax ,but handy to carry onto the slopes for a boost!
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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Don't forget - the factory wax on a new board is good for a while 
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This is definitely a great DIY waxing technique. On the other hand, if the board is not in good condition, like there's crack on the board, it's better to hand it to shops where professional people can do the waxing and do not cause further damage to your board.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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skitours, i suspect if there is a crack in the board no amount of wax is going to fix it.
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If you do the above up to the point where you wax and scrap the board, then before you use the stuff nylon brushes to bring up the structure spray a tiny amount of water before you then brush, it makes it so shiny.
I've used all kinds of wax, mainly the all round red one on a multi coloured board, surely it should make no difference as the wax is either in the board or scraped off so you dont see it.
Did a board for the first time yesterday, bring back my skis any day, so much less surface area!
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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errr ... I'd be careful about following this advice. One of the reasons you clean the base prior to doing anything else is that you pick up all sorts of crud whilst on the slopes - including grit. Ironing it straight into the base is not advised. Also you should do your edging first and make sure that the crud from that is not on the base either (again with the cleaning). If you are going to use a non-specialist iron (i) don't use a steam iron and (ii) make very certain you can tell what temperature is correct for the wax and the base otherwise you can either fry the wax or melt the base - specialist irons are geared not to reach temeratures that clothes irons reach. Alos it's better to do all this in a warm place and allow the base to warm up. Outside is OK for the mess but unless you are in a heat wave, the pores in the base won't open up as much.
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I have just bought myself a base cleaner, any tips on the best way to use it? Should I spray it on and wipe off straight away or do I leave it for an hour? Please help
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You know it makes sense.
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youtube search 'the house' channel, the guy has a couple of pretty good tuning videos.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Poster: A snowHead
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i was wondering what the difference between an extruded board and the other types of snowboards are vis a vis speed and maintenance? Cheers!
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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It was nice to use this method to wax my board. I feel more comfortable to use it. Great Toturial 
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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An extruded base uses plastic that is made in an extrusion process: Where the plastic is melted and pushed through a mould.
Sintered bases are not "Pushed" through a mould, but consist of powders and plastic pellets that are heated to just below fluid melt points and through pressure, form bonds.
Extruded bases are harder so good for freestyle, less likely to damage them on rails and boxes but they retain less wax so need maintaining more often to retain good glide and are usually slower.
Sintered bases hold more wax so need less maintenance and are faster on the flats.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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thanks i get it so now
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Every wednesday in Morzine L'Aubergade Hotel does this thing called Wax:On Wednesday - where you spend €10 at the bar and a guy waxes your board while you chill in the bar. Such a good job and great beer..
Well worth the visit, went and stayed with them twice last season and will do it again next season. Perfect Morzine hotel and great staff
www.laubergade.com/en
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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@stab, Great post.
I love servicing my own board and always end up doing half a dozen mates too.
Crack open a beer and get waxing, I find it strangely theraputic and relaxing......could be the fumes from the wax that does that.
I always take a little travel iron and a few tools for a two week trip to wax whilst away.
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Interesting points here in this thread, have been doing my boards for a few years, but still trying to work out which is the best way, sections or whole board. Problem is they are long boards and take a hell of a lot of wax, and a lot of scraping and polishing. The upside is that they out glide everything on flats.
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It's important to loosen your binding screws before you wax - you eventually end up with dimples on the base if you dont.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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| Milk Corbum wrote: |
| It's important to loosen your binding screws before you wax - you eventually end up with dimples on the base if you dont. |
Good to know! I've wondered why I've seen that on hired boards - i just assumed they had been over tightened
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Did it for the first time last week. Unfortunately did an uneven job and there was some melted wax visible in parts of the board which my scraper just couldn't get off, and despite re-ironing and re-scraping they were still there. Think I might have put too much on in the first place, hopefully next time will be better.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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@karansaraf, don't worry about it. Take your board out on the snow and it'll rub/melt off after a run or two....
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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Thanks. Yeah I took it out the next day in the snowdome and those bits have definitely gone. Unfortunately, some of the edges are looking a bit dry already I'm sure I'll get the hang of it soon haha
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I've never done it myself, but I think, the time has come. Thanks for the info
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You know it makes sense.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Thanks mate. This is definitely gonna help me!
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Poster: A snowHead
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Followed this and a few other internet sites to wax my second hand snowboard before a recent trip to Finland. Board looked way better after the wax than before with a nice smooth shiny base. However, after 5 days of boarding it was back to looking really dry at the edges and at patches in the centre. Is that to be expected? I used an all conditions wax and was in temps down to about -25 celcius if that makes any difference. I'm sure it didn't really affect my intermediate skill level, just curious as to how long i should get out of a wax?
To note: i wasn't going to shell out €50 plus on a dedicated iron so i used an old travel iron instead, and used an IR thermometer to measure the base temp and twiddled the knob until it was in line with the melting temp of the wax. Seemed to work just fine.
I didn't clean the base with anything other than a stiff brush before applying the wax.
I'll give it another wax sometime soon cause it looks way better and doesn't take too long and i figure it's probably better to have a layer on it for storage than not.
Cheers all.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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After 5 days use in extreme temps I would expect that. Wax it again but remove the old wax with a wax solvent cleaner. I have an eco friendly one but forget the name. This will take it all out and not leave any residue. I have an old iron too and its fine don't bother spending the money, unless you really want to!
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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1. Use the wire wool to clean around the base and the bindings (where the base and board are joined). This will remove any gunk that has built up around the base and can help prevent your board from breaking. 2. Apply a thin layer of wax with the iron. 3. Use the wire wool to remove the wax. 4. Repeat step 3 until you finish the wax. 5. Use the scouring pad to remove any wax left on the base. 6. Use the polishing pad to buff the base. 7. Use the wire wool to clean the base and bindings a final time. 8. Use the soft wax to cover the board. 9. Use the iron to spread the wax evenly. 10. Use the wire wool to remove excess wax. 11. Use the scouring pad to remove any wax left on the base. 12. Use the polishing pad to buff the base. 13. Use the wire wool to clean the base and bindings a final time. 14. Use the wire wool to give the bottom of the board a once over. 15. Use the scouring pad to clean around the edges of the board. 16. Use the soft wax to cover the edges of the board. 17. Use the iron to spread the wax evenly. 18. Use the scouring pad to remove any wax left on the edges of the board. 19. Use the soft wax to cover the edges of the board. 20. Use the iron to spread the wax
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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