 Poster: A snowHead
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bruisedskier, Champoluc is definately not complex or I would be lost all the time!
The biggest issue with the area, as others have mentioned is on windy days they can end up closing a lot of lifts.
Dont get stuck the wrong side of a mountain on days like this as its a three hour taxi ride back round to Gressony or Champoluc. I have almost been on the point of this once but the lifties will do their utmost to get you back. I think I would resort to a hotel room!!!
I have never come across a bottle neck in Champoluc, there is rarely more than a few people in front of you get on a lift and certainly nothing like the hour long queues I have come across in France and Austria (years ago). However I never ski in school holidays which might help with this.
My big sis has a travel business and uses Frantze a lot for her customers. They have only had their rooms open for a couple of years but they are now pretty much fully booked and most often with repeat business so getting the dates you want can be a problem unless you book way ahead. We reserved seven rooms last January for this Dec as we are going as a large group and wanted to guarantee enough rooms for everyone.
Frantze is up at the top of the first piste, so if you want a wander/ drink in town in the evening you have to get the bubble down and back up, it runs hourly until 10 I think, but you have to walk back down to the hotel. This isn't going to be everyone's cuppa. Mind you easy to be out for first track in the morning though 
Francesca who runs the place is lovely, and although I haven't stayed here before (sis has) I have eaten several times, before they had renovated the rooms, and the food is fantastic. Another highly recommended lunch stop.
Skiing in and out from the side of the piste can be "interesting" sometimes and isn't that easy for the novice!
They are getting some good press in the UK
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=439140212788540&set=a.137165016319396.11566.129112667124631&type=1&theater
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/hotel/85829/The-Rascard-Frantze-hotel-Champoluc-Italy-review.html
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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| Tom W wrote: |
Quite like what I read here and elsewhere about the area - quite, authentic, high etc...
But..
We do not ski/board off piste (only easy bits here and there on the sides of piste).
Do you think it is worth going there for couple of days (or even a week) just for piste skiing?
We prefer rather cruisy reds and blues. I can see there are some unavoidable (connecting) blacks.
Are the lift fairly modern?
Thx |
Just my opinion, but I reckon it's worth going for a week for the on-piste skiing alone. The piste map doesn't really do justice to the size of the area: many of the runs are much longer than they appear on the map. There is also St. Jean and Antagnod to go at. If you are leisurely cruisers you could spend a day at either; if you prefer to clock up the mileage then you may prefer to spend the morning there, have lunch and then get the bus back to la Trinite or Champoluc back on the main network. We didn't do it ourselves, but we were told that there is some nice tree skiing between the pistes at both St. Jean and Antagnod.
The black down into Stafal from the Seehorn does have a couple of steepish pitches and can be icy in places in the mornings. It is nice and wide though, so lots of room for manoeuvre. If you don't fancy it, the alternative is 10-minute bus ride from Gressoney, or, if you start at the Jolanda chairlift, you can take the red piste (11) to the Gabiet gondola and drop down into Stafal in that. The black down towards Alagna is terrific. Nice and wide and beautifully groomed. The alternative way down is to take either of the two blues that, on the piste map, seem to lead you off a huge cliff (they don't; they lead you to the mid-station) and take the cable-car to the top of the red that takes you down into Alagna. Don't forget to get off at the first stop though, or else you'll end up in Alagna having done bug-all skiing
Lifts are a mixture of (more) old (than) & new. Don't worry, they can cope with the numbers of skiers there. We were warned about the mass invasion of weekenders from Turin and Milan (which you can see from the top on a clear day), but hardly noticed a difference. I love it there. Trying to improve my off-piste skills so that I can go back and do it justice before every man and his dog finds out about it. 
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Gaz C, Thanks for lots of info. All sound good so it is on my list to visit soon 
Last edited by Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see? on Wed 14-11-12 8:46; edited 1 time in total
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Tom W, +1 - worth a visit. IIRC There are only 3 black sections in the area: you can avoid one and the other two are not nearly as bad as you might think (wide and relatively short). YMMV as obviously conditions play a huge part in that. Personally I don't think you can spend a whole day on piste in Antagnod but the in between piste can be very fine and generally untracked.
I would stay in Champoluc myself, as it's got rather more going on, including one of our favourite restaurants anywhere, "Le Sapin", renowned for its amazing steaks. (It does other things but the tagliatta is just splendid).
I'm going to suggest that as of last year there's only really one "old" lift on the main circuit (although it runs in two directions). But then I'm still describing a lift in the PdS as the "new" one when it's up for replacement for this winter  I digress, anyway, most lifts are declutchable and fairly high capacity.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Plenty of mentions about the guides here, anyone have any experiance of the Gressoney ski school ?
Going in half term with my son(11), would like to ski with him if we go to ski school, he is just as capable/incapable as me, so same level.
Both capable skiers but by no means the finished article. If we don't go to ski school might pick up a couple of lessons anyway.
Thought ski school might give more of an introduction into off piste as well, I note that the school programe shows 5 hours on the Friday.
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We booked a week in Gressoney week 2 of January 2012. Guiding and heli were to be the order of the week. Unfortunately there were very high winds which scoured all of the snow away. We stayed for three days hoping for snow but alas nothing, so we hit the highway (and) tunnel to Switzerland.
The average meal in GIt is better than most resorts. The night life is quiet, however, the locals know how to party. This may involve a little trip down the mountain after the pubs close in Gressoney but well worth it if you are invited.
In the end we did two runs on the Saturday after quing for an hour for the lift. Yes an hour. The piste seemed ok buut the obvious off-piste was non-existant. We tried to get on the heli on the Sunday and when we were stood down due to the conditions we went on the mother of all sessions on the Sunday night ending up in some "nite club" about 30kms from Gressoney. There was no heli on the the Monday (not that we could have partaken). With no sign of any snow we cut the trip short and followed the snow to eastern Switzerland.
On getting to Gressoney the potential is very obvious. Based on my experience I would say that January is a risk. Katherine from Monte Rosa guides recommended March.
I loved the place as the people working there were very enthusiastic about visitors. Juxtaposed to the large resorts this was refreshing to say the least.
I will definitely be back but I will not book until I see a massive low pressure marching towards Monte Rosa and many calls are made to my new found friends over there to confirm the conditions!
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TGH79, wind seems a constant ssue for the off piste in Gressoney unfortunately
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going with wife and friends to Champoluc again this year for first trip on the 20th Jan. it will be our third time in a row, she loves it,(and me !!) wife skis till about 2.30 then leaves me and a few friends to blast around on the empty slopes, no ques and empty slopes, always stay at the hotel champoluc...ski to door, brill !! and the apres ski in the cafe bar opposite is fantastic...loads of free pizza and nibbles to help with the adult beverages
wife and friends have a day or two snow shoeing as well, great area for it, as you can walk to the rifugios and areas where skiers can't get to..
Not really a place for beginners or party animals,
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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depthjunkie, How was it - We've booked for half term - active kids first time - staying in GSJ but planning to explore - How'd u get on ? Thanks
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bruisedskier, Did you find one - looking for Ski School for my two aged 8 and 10 - Feb 2013
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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1jmsnow, We are still trying to decide what to do, we will be in Gressoney LT, so most likely go with the ski school there.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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a Group of us will be in Champoluc from 21 Feb , and one families 3 children have never skied before.
Any recommendations for instruction will be very welcome, otherwise will just try local skischool.
We would love to do a day guided off-piste, but nothing too life-threateningly serious : anyone from Champoluc recommended, or should we book guides from Gressoney?
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You know it makes sense.
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bruisedskier, no there isn't. you have to be on holiday with them to use their instructors... I presume this is to keep the Italians happy.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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That is a shame as that looks like a good option.
We are staying in the Relais des Glaciers hotel, and will probably use skihire and school they recommend then.
Thanks , really cant wait to get there now!
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Poster: A snowHead
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lizski, they will recommend the Italian Ski School. As there isn't another one.
Ski hire? Rent&play is good enough...
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Try international snowsports school in Champoluc with Duncan Adamson.
Excellent coach and i'd expect the ski school will be of a high standard.
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lizski, From what I saw of the Italian Ski School in Champoluc this January they looked to be doing a quality job, really attentive teaching, up to date methods. Total opposite of what I've seen from the ESF. I don't think you'd go far wrong with them.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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sorry for the late reply, been mega busy since getting back so not had much time to post a little trip report.
Enjoyed Gressoney, and the surrounding area's of champoluc & Alagna. Sadly there had not been any major real fresh snow fall for around 3-4weeks before we went.
Pistes were in great shape and a credit to the piste workers, but sadly the off piste was not(Pretty wind and sun F*$ked)
The whole area remind me of the espace killy minus the hordes. The off piste potential given the right snow conditions is vast and plenty of it lift served also. Managed a few off piste runs from the punta indren Mainly Eagles & the smaller couloir to the left of eagles (as looking from the lifts) and also a few routes and gullys over the champoluc side .
Eagles couloir from The indren Lift
Just about to drop into Eagles
The village was very scenic and a true village (stayed in Trinite)
No Apres to speak off in Austrian terms, just a quite few beers before retiring back to the hotel. All the locals are friendly and make you feel very welcome in all the shops and bars/restaurants. Mountain huts are great and plenty of em about the area. Food quality also very good, and also good value compared to france (2x quality cheese burgers, 1x chips, 2x cokes cost around 15euros with coffee's around 1-2euros on the mountain). Also the ski shops were reasonable price wise for clothing.
The pistes were IMHO not very challenging with the area being mainly marked as reds, but i felt that the majority of reds were more like blues and the few black runs were like reds. all pistes could be skied pretty much flat out if you wanted and did not offer any real challenges.
Pistes were very quite and it really was like millionaire's skiing. You could ski a run and see only a hand full of other folk, and a few times non at all. The pistes were in general quite long runs with great views.
Mrs DJ on empty pistes
No one around
The 3 Valleys are easy to link and ski to from one to the other. We never suffered from winds shutting links down other than one day when we had to get back up from Alagna to Salati before the link was going to shut due to wind. Plenty of notice was given by the lifties to make sure anyone staying in either Gressoney or champoluc should head back over.
In all i felt the area was very authentic and offed a complete different experience to the big know resorts in France and Austria.
Would i go back????? Yes, we both enjoyed the area and the realness of the villages. But as Mrs DJ said, she's looking forward to going back to Austria in March because "its nice to have a bit of life in the evenings (not to party all night) but just for a walk around a few bars and to see other folk out and about etc". Gressoney really was deserted by 8pm. Not a bad thing, just different. But as Mrs DJ said yes we are there to ski but we are also on holiday as well.
view from hotel
Would deffo go back at some point (prob march time some yr) just to have another crack at the vast off piste on offer
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depthjunkie, Great report. Thanks. As I mentioned already place is on my list to visit soon, maybe for a long weekend.
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depthjunkie, you hit the nail on the head re off piste: it's just not that often excellent, often due wind.
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TOM W gressoney would be ideal for a long weekend. Just for a whole week there is nothing to do after skiing and for myself the pistes were not enough to keep me occupied for a full week if the off piste is not there to be had.
Trinite only had 3 bars, & only 1 of them only really had anyone in. But by 7-8pm the place was like a ghost town. Fab for 3-4days but a bit too quite for a full week for us (we were in bed by 9pm watching the A team on tv as there just was not anything else to do).
How empty the pistes were was surreal, and if we had a good dump of snow the place would come alive for me with the off piste on offer. But sadly the dump never came.
We are planning a lads 3-4dayer next yr, and for that gressoney would be great. As if the conditions don't favour the off piste for 3 days or so we would be happy with the piste skiing as a back up. Just not for a full weeks skiing. And for 3 days or so the quietness of the village would be fine. It's just for a full week it got a bit much IMHO.
Can't speak for gressoney st jean & champoluc as villages to stay in, but they did look to have a bit more to them size wise than trinite. But trinite/staffal are nicely placed in the middle of the valleys so makes a great base to be able to ski either side to champoluc or over to alagna.
I would deffo go back, it's just a different type of ski holiday compared to the likes of val d, st anton etc
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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But it is also the 1st ski holiday that I came back with money in my pocket😃
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depthjunkie, Champoluc does have a bit more going on and has some very good eating eg Le Sapin, if you like meat. If you have a car (there is a bus) then going up via Frachey is pretty efficient.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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depthjunkie, I think we will go for Champoluc as a base (as apparently there is relatively more going on). Hope it is still doable to board to Alagna and back.
We are not the fastest Are the lifts fairly modern?
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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Lifts are fairly modern, the odd old one here and there but in general lift system was very good. We even commented on the fact how little people seemed to be about compared to the infrastructure in place.
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depthjunkie, Thanks for that, off this weekend. I'm with my son so won't attempt the Idren lift or anything.
But any particular places worth a mention, piste or eateries?
On the pistmap there seem to be more runs in Champoluc, but I'd read somewhere that Gressoney has the steeper runs, especially below Gabiet, any comments on the three valleys ??
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You know it makes sense.
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bruisedskier, not much in it IMO in terms of steepness. Moos below Gabiet is black, but I don't really know why. Overall gradient not much steeper than, say, the steep pitch just off Sarezza. And the lower section is a path.
If you make it as far as Champoluc, Rascard Frantze just off the Pistone home run is very charming for lunch. Nowhere particular to avoid - food generally of good quality.
Tom W, the home run into Alagna doesn't usually add much to your day - not generally worth bothering with. Best stopping the descent at Pianalunga and hopping on the cable car there. Definitely suggest Champoluc as a better base.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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runs in Champoluc are greeat fun, if you ski from the top down to the mid station make sure you have a go at the red 'round the back' which is between the chair and the main piste to the right, starts off as a track....the run over to frachey means going via the 'cutting'..this can be a bit of a challenge for novices...suggest side slipping down for first 100 yards or catch the bus to frachey and catch the lift up there.
there is a resturant there which is worth going to but not on a saturday.!! you need a run at it as it's up a small incline !!
the bar at the mid station is not worth going to.
on the way down there is the stella alpona bar advertised, off piste there and off piste out !! can be a pain
bar at top off gondola is ok but sometimes there's a very strong smell !!!!!! great for the last beer of the day and final run to bottom
the bar at the top of the blue C7 (cant remeber name !) is ok but sometimes very loud music !!
in Frachey there's 4, not a big fan of any of them though !!
going over towards gressonay, best place for lunch is at the bottom of the sant'anna lift (no 17)
there's one above it but it lacks charm, but is cheap !!
the one at the top of bettaforce is ok as well. (top of the sant'anna.)
In gresonnay do stop at the place at the bottom of lift 23...dead cheap, great hot chocolate
the restuarant at the top of punta jolanda is well worth a stop as well for lunch..wild boare spagetti..mmm
Have fun...we've already booked for next year
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Poster: A snowHead
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I sort of agree with depthjunkie, in that the piistes are mainly on the gentle side of red and the blacks on the very gentle side of blacks, but it is difficult to compare them with other areas since they are bashed to billiard table smoothness. In fact all pistes feel more or less the same. Oren in particular would be a red in most other resorts, but it is an exceedingly beautiful piste dropping a respectable 900m. If they allowed Nera to develop bumps then it would IMHO be a black in anybody's book. As it was when were there 10 days ago it was smooth and firm making a lovely blasting piste. It was also the least crowded run we were on and was our favourite in the resort. There were lots and lots of near piste runs with about 10cm of powder on them.
The black from Gabiet to Stafal has a wide steepish top section then flattens out into a long road terminating a couple hundred metres short of the lift stations.
bruisedskier, if you stick on the pistes you can probably ski every piste in a day
Since we were there over a weekend it was a bit busier than reported by depthjunkie but not uncomfortably so. There were no lift queues worth mentioning. Food on the mountain was OK and compared to France it was cheep (even a 3/4 litre carafe of wine for 5 euro) but the portions tended to be smaller which to me is a good thing. I don't want lots to eat in the middle of the day. One thing that I also noticed comparing Italy with France is the lack of greetings by the lifties. In France most lift operators say good day to you and smile, but not in Gressoney. I suppose it is just cultural differences. After all you wouldn't expect it in the UK.
I liked the bar/restaurant in Alagna just below the lift station.
I actually enjoyed the resort. We had a good weekend. However, Gressoney la Trinte sounds a very lively place compared to St Jean. I prefered Gressoney to Champoluc
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Thanks All, will have to return with my own view and Photos to further the portfolio on this Area.
If the pistes can be done in a day, anyone tried Antagnod and GSJ (this has a floodlight run) ??
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Antagnod will keep you entertained for 30 mins !!! there's a couple of runs, although it can be very very quiet. unless you are a begineer, then maybe a good place to go !!
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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bruisedskier, oddly enough, Antagnod can be quite fun on a powder day especially if other things are closed for wind.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Thanks guys.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
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All sounding good - we have just booked five days in Champoluc at the Breithorn at the beginning of March so looking forward to it.
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Pamski, lovely hotel.
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under a new name, oh good! its a bit of a treat as we are usually in our own place in Les Gets - everything that I have read about the area is coming out well.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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on the piste...the whole area is great fun really for blasting around as fast as you can!! off piste is supposed to be best in March !!! trouble is Crystal stop going there at the end of feb !!
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March 17th being the end of February. But yes it does appear to be ridiculously early to stop when there is 6 more weeks left in the season
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FAQ
