 Poster: A snowHead
|
An early, mini trip report - just back from a week in Italy, during which we took a couple of days out from eating too much and touristing to try out our new ski boots.
We stayed in Trento for most of the week (plus a couple of days in Verona to end) - flew into Verona BA, out Friday 7th at lunchtime from Gatwick and a quick bus to Verona Porta Nuova train station, then an hour on the train up to Trento. Shacked up at the Grand Hotel Trento, which is comfortable, old school, and about three minutes walk from both train and bus station. Useful. As we stayed there for multiple nights they gave us a Trentino Guest Card which meant all local public transport and all the museums etc (Trento has some very good ones) were free, even more useful!
First day of ski was in Monte Bondone, a small ski area near to Trento, on Sunday 9th. We took the ski bus up there at 9am, which takes 50 mins-ish from the bus station to Vason. Hired skis at Degasperi - about 35 quid for the pair of us for the day - ok, but not a great selection. Lift pass was 28 euros each for the day, which apparently was a cheapo price as limited runs were open. Being a weekend and so near town, the place was pretty busy, and the blues that were open were a bit chaotic - E and F on the piste map. The reds were much quieter - G, accessed by a decent chair from the bottom of F, and A/C, accessed from the coldest old chair lift from Vason. Brr. Blues were nice and gentle, reds were wide with a decent gradient but not hugely challenging - actually really good for a warm up. We knew that only a few runs were open and were only there to try our legs, but the runs down to Vaneze looked good from what we saw from the bus, and there is also a long red, the 'Gran Pista' which is over 3k long. We got the bus back down at 4.44 after a couple of drinks in Vason, and Trento looked very pretty at night from above! Summary of Monte Bondone then: fun for a day later in the season, nice views, doesn't need any longer
Second day of ski took us to Paganella ('My fun ski area!'). Paganella is a bit further away that Monte Bondone, but oddly didn't take much longer to get to. We took the train to Mezzocorona at 8.05am, then switched to the bus which was just after 8.20. Got to Andalo at 9am, easy. Again, limited runs were open, so the lower station (Fai della Paganella) didn't suit us, but that village looked extremely pretty. Anyway, up in Andalo we hired skis from Rent and Go who were really good - nice new pair of Fischer MY XTR 77 suited me just fine as an intermediate (really liked these skis, they don't seem to like going slowly so they encouraged me to crack on a bit), and the OH had Head Shape SX which he also liked. Rental slightly cheaper than the Monte Bondone shop as well, which proves that it's a bit luck of the draw... Ski passes were 30 euros each for the day. The runs open included a lovely area of blues accessed off the top of the Doss Pella gondola (J,O,P,W,X on the map), a couple of which opened as the day went on so we had the fun of skiing through the new snow blower snow, and then on the freshly groomed corduroy, depending on what had just opened. Proper, lovely, wide Italian blues, we spent a lot of time practising up here, getting up a bit of speed.  In addition, quite a few reds were open off the top point of the resort, Cima Paganella (C,D,E,F,G,V), some a little steeper, some very cruisey, all well maintained and a pleasure to ski on. However, the true joy of this resort is the incredible view off the top of Cima Paganella, panoramic gorgeousness including Lake Garda and the Dolomite ranges around the resort. Such a distinctive landscape, beautiful. A good place to view from is the Rifugio La Roda, where we enjoyed excellent pasta. Again, the runs that were closed (the blowers were on) looked good, varied and wide. The bus/train combination on the way back was equally easy, after a few drinks in Andalo which is definitely a proper resort village - oh, and some very good cake at La Stua. Summary of Paganella: I want to go back when it's fully open, please! It's really very nice, I reckon that you could easily have a few days of fun here.
Special mention must go to Sheila in Andalo, a Yorkshire lass who spends her winters in Fai della Paganella every year, and likes to go fast on piste. We met her in the ski hire and she told us all the best places to go, then came flying past us on numerous occasions. Apparently she's been doing this for 11 years and hasn't got bored, which is a pretty good review of the area. Go, it's fun. 
Bearing in mind that we went mainly for a non-ski holiday, we were well happy with our ski days, with Paganella winning for sheer Dolomite beauty and a more challenging ski area. Trento has lots to offer for a holiday anyway (worth a thought for those with non-skiing partners?) with loads of restaurants, shops, museums, etc, access is very easy, and the chance of a couple of days in Verona is also a bonus. We noted a lot of people touring (if that's what walking up hills with skis on is), especially in Monte Bondone, and this is clearly an area where summer is as beautiful as winter. Good times, and a good set up for Whistler in January... roll on more snow!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
|
Interesting - I went to Andalo on a school trip a lifetime ago. The map looks pretty similar to back then.
You had me confused with "blower", which in some parts of BC is slang for "light and dry powder". Snow cannon, aha.
The Whistler snow machine is now officially turned on, I hear.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
|
Thanks for that.
Both on the list
|
|
|
|
|
|
You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
|
|
If this works, hopefully a pic that further whets appetites for Paganella...
|
|
|
|
|
|
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
|
|
Thanks for posting this, looks very interesting. I considered spending a week in Trento this season doing a different resort each day, but decided against it due to the amount of travelling. Your way of doing it - combining with some days looking around Trento - looks much more sensible.
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Great report - thanks for posting 
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Glad you enjoyed it ElzP. We did a short break to Trento a few years ago and stayed at the Grand, which we got for a great price.
We skied a day each at Monte Bondone, Folgarida and Madonna di Campiglio from there, using a hire car.
Really enjoyed the skiing and our nights out in Trento - very pleasant town and decent prices for food and drink IIRC. Definitely recommended for a short break.
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
|
Cheers guys! I definitely recommend - and @mountainaddict, we thought about hiring a car and doing Madonna as well, but went for the public transport instead, I think next time we'd hire and explore some more. Problem is I'm a chicken driver, and my other half likes a post ski beer (or more likely, bombardino), so we've not worked out a happy compromise yet...  I did hear from our Sheila that it's very easy to do do that trip though. Also interested to see what Pampeago/Obereggen is like, never heard of it before but again only just over an hour from Trento. The Grand in Trento is indeed very good value and so convenient for everything.
Having mentioned that we saw loads of people touring, googling a bit more it seems that that is very much a thing in that part of the world. Have now decided that my ski aim is to be good enough to do some of that myself, it looked peaceful and satisfying. Might have to ditch some lard as well!
Sigh, would rather be cruising down an empty Panoramica and Tre Tre in Paganella right now (very nice reds), but only a month to go until the next trip...
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
FAQ
