 Poster: A snowHead
|
Well, just got back last weekend from an amazing two week trip to Europe. My wife and I spent five days in St. Anton (4 days riding) then four days (2 days riding) in Selva Val Gardena then finished it up with two days riding in Chamonix. For ease of future searching, I am splitting it up into three TR’s.
First off, we did not originally plan to go to St Anton, or even Austria. However, on January 31st I was seeing forecasts of huge dumpage in St Anton, and we cancelled our original hotel in Serre Chevelier and found a place in St Anton. Well, it wasn’t actually in St Anton, it was about 10km away in a small village called Flirsch. So, we flew into Geneva, hopped into the rental car and drove the ~5 hrs to St Anton. It was an easy drive, mostly on major highways. Due to the snow, we just paid the something like €8 to drive through the tunnel.
Hotel: Pension Grissemann. Since I was trying to book accommodations 3 days before our arrival date, there were not a whole bunch of options. We chose to stay at this location due to price, and it had decent reviews. It was outside St Anton in Flirsch, but that did not affect our stay one bit. It included breakfast and dinner (I think it’s called half board). The lodging itself was clean, rooms were much more roomy than I expected in Europe. The wifi is €5 for your stay and it is very slow and you can only have one device signed on at a time. The breakfast was good, and dinner was a home cooked Austrian type cuisine. Their house wine was affordable (€16) and very good to this non connoisseur. The bus to and from St Anton is free until something like 17:55, then €3 each way between like 18:00-19:30 then €5 until like 03:00. It runs pretty often and the stop is literally 25m from the front door. You also get ski/snowboard storage as well as boot storage at the rental shop in east St Anton with your stay.
Flirsch: Flirsch is very small and there is not much to do in town that we saw. There are a few places to eat that are attached to lodging, but we never really tried them since our dinner was included. There is one bar to go to, Enrique’s. Enrique’s has a very mellow atmosphere, but it is a very nice place. The owner is extremely friendly and we immediately felt welcome and went back several times. It also has high speed internet for free, so that’s a plus. There is a nice church right in the middle of town. The town itself is very picturesque and charming as well as quiet.
St Anton: Lot’s of food and après options. The main area is the west-side, by the Galzigbahn. We really enjoyed Café Anton (they have a machine that makes fresh OJ as it is being poured). We didn’t eat in town, yet again due to dinner included in our lodging. We ate lunch both on and off-mountain and weren’t really thrilled about any of the places. But, neither of us really enjoyed Austrian food that much. For après, we had the best time at the bar right by the Nassereinbahn. I can’t remember the name, but it is skier’s left of the gondola station as you come off the mountain and has black and orange colors.
The mountain/riding: As I stated, the only reason we even came to St Anton was due to the fact that it was supposed to get snow. A lot of snow. And that it did. It was snowing hard when we arrived on Feb. 3, and was one of the deepest days I can remember on Feb. 4th. We booked a group guide with Piste to Powder and our guide was Picco. We are both snowboarders and so was Picco. We lucked out big time since there was only one other person in our group, and they don’t normally do guided groups of only three, but they let us go anyways. The third in our group could not handle the powder after about 100m into the first off piste, and after struggling all the way down, he decided to go on his own and meet us for lunch. So, my wife and I had a private guide for the cost of a group guide! We are both used to riding deep powder, and that’s what we came for. Picco made sure we got what we wanted and we rode some amazing lines of super deep powder until our legs couldn’t move! That first day was one of the best, if not the best, days of riding in my life. Nice long sustained vertical with knee to waist deep of light pow! The next day we went unguided, but visibility was next to nothing, so we just rode some pistes and had an easy day. Our third day we went unguided again, but the sun came out and we rode some off piste, finding great powder everywhere. The only problem was that the high mountain lifts were never open our whole trip due to either visibility or avy danger. We really wanted to go up the Valluga and Schindler lifts, but never got the chance. Our fourth day we did a half day guided with Walter, who started his own, snowboard specific guide company. It’s called something like ABC-Snowboarding or something like that. He was recommended to us by Enrique (the owner of the bar in Flirsch) and we highly recommend him as well. He was a snowboard instructor for the Arlberg ski school for a long time, and most the local snowboard kids know him since he had taught them. Not only did he take us on some great off piste powder, but helped us to further develop our posture and gave us tips. He gave us another one of the best days of riding we had ever had.
Panorama view from the top of the Zammermoos lift:
Looking down to St Christof:
My wife getting some nice off piste powder. Unfortunately we didn't take any pics on the days we were guided that were super deep, mainly because it was too much fun to stop!
Me, at the bus stop. The building right behind me on the left is the Pension Grissemann, so you can see how close it is to the bus stop:
My wife and I with Walter, our guide after an amazing day of riding:
Flirsch:
Last edited by Poster: A snowHead on Thu 28-02-13 0:01; edited 1 time in total
|
|
|
|
|
|
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
|
|
a2thak, Thanks for report. Glad you liked it. It is great area.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
|
a2thak,
Thanks for sharing. As I'm going there next Saturday, I have a particular interest.  I'm going with Piste to Powder myself, so I'm interested, which level did you specify and what exactly made the third guy bail out?
|
|
|
|
|
|
You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
|
a2thak, good TR thanks. I'm off to St Anton and looking to get a snowboard guide, have contacted ABs and P2P. 
|
|
|
|
|
|
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
|
|
We said level 3, which was spot on for us according to the guide. I think the guy bailed because 1, he was hungover and 2, he was not ready for how deep the powder was and he was really struggling with it.
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
|
|
|
|
|
|
a2thak,
Thanks! That's a bit of a relief, as 1, we've specified level 1 (ie. new to powder) and 2, we are determined to be well rested and not hungover.
Hearing about people bailing out is a bit of a discouragement, but based on what you're saying, I think we're good to go.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
a2thak, I've got a day booked with Walter tomorrow. Looking forward to it.
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
|
Staying in Flirsch for a week starting this coming Saturday.
good to know there is a bar there and a few restaurants as we are staying in an el cheapo b&b.
unfortunatly for us there is no new snow forcast ( as of yet ) for the week. boo.
So the 88's are probably staying at home , and will just take the carvers.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
A shame the Valluga wasn't open - I'm sure you would have loved the classic off piste routes over to the Zurs area (and Lech).
....and now the Selva and Chamonix report?
|
|
|
|
|
|
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
|
|
Great stuff, thanks a2thak. I don't board but it's useful to know what guiding options are available, I thought P2P didn't take boarders. Flirsch sounds pretty nice.
|
|
|
|
|
|
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
|
|
sah, Flirsch amd Schnann great in summer too, some great mountain hiking above there in the hills, accesses via the Schnann Gorge!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| snowball wrote: |
A shame the Valluga wasn't open - I'm sure you would have loved the classic off piste routes over to the Zurs area (and Lech).
....and now the Selva and Chamonix report? |
Haha, working on it. It sucks being back in the real world and having to actually work! Going through my pictures and TR makes me wish I was back across the pond!
|
|
|
|
|
|
You know it makes sense.
|
| Quote: |
For après, we had the best time at the bar right by the Nassereinbahn. I can’t remember the name, but it is skier’s left of the gondola station as you come off the mountain and has black and orange colors.
|
That sounds like Fang House to me. I remember it fondly!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
|
Just realised you also said the Schindler lift wasn't open. The steep gullies off the top of that are some of the best in the whole area.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Poster: A snowHead
|
snowball, Schindlerbahn was open Thurs/Fri/Sat last week. Those gullies were a joy!
But the best thing about St Anton at Half-Term.................................. Stuben, and Zurs! Empty pistes, unbelieveable! 
|
|
|
|
|
|
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
|
|
What's the story on the Schindler gullies? never dropped them as they always appear fenced off, do you 'simply' work around the netting to get into them?? do they ever get roped off 100%???
|
|
|
|
|
|
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
|
|
|
|
You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
|
|
snowball, When I've been here at Easter for the past 3 years the doubling back has always been netted off, hence never skiied it, however it always appears to have tracks in it!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
|
|
Edited my original post to add pics
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
|
a2thak, We went to the summer carnival in a large marquee outside the big hall on the last photo, local music and food, very pleasant, great little village. Beautiful in summer, flowers and Alpine walking just fantastic.
Just out of interest - we ski all the time we can in Arlberg and really reate it, how does it compare with CO, would you say its worth us venturing over there or sticking with all the stuff we know? Every US skier we ever meet says how great they think Arlberg is, would hate to spend loads of money going to Vail for example and be disappointed! Great photos btw.
Heading out tomorrow, very excited!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Yeah great photos OP, hitting the Arlberg in two weeks for third time in three years! Can't wait!!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 8611 wrote: |
| Yeah great photos OP, hitting the Arlberg in two weeks! Can't wait!! |
Me too 
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
|
kitenski, it wasn't netted off in spring 2010 when I was last there.
Perhaps, now, people are somehow getting around the netting and then traversing along high. But there were no tracks in my favourite couloir, what I call the canyon (just to the left of the triangle of rock in the photo) when I was there in early January (you can look down it from the lift as the lift levels off near the top).
Last edited by You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net. on Thu 28-02-13 15:15; edited 1 time in total
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
horizon, when're you out there until? K and I will be in resort week commencing the 17th March and would be good to grab some more turns with you.
|
|
|
|
|
|
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
|
Hotel Grissemann is a good choice. Good value, Bus Pick up perfect. Ive recommended it on tis site here a couple of times.
FYI. If you dont know Flirsch is the home town of double world champion slalom racer Mario Matt
http://mariomatt.com/
He also has his Arabian Horse Stud Farm in Flirsch >>> Mario Matt Arabians
He also is the new owner
(last 3 seasons)
http://www.krazykanguruh.com/
Glad you enjoyed.
|
|
|
|
|
|
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
|
|
Sideshow_Bob, great! I'm there from the 16th to the 23rd, should have a guide for 17-21, there are already four of us ( possibly 5 for some days) so let me know if you and K want to join at some point. Look forward to skiing with you again!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Markymark29 wrote: |
| a2thak, Just out of interest - we ski all the time we can in Arlberg and really reate it, how does it compare with CO, would you say its worth us venturing over there or sticking with all the stuff we know? Every US skier we ever meet says how great they think Arlberg is, would hate to spend loads of money going to Vail for example and be disappointed! Great photos btw. |
Tough question. I would say no, it is not worth it. Especially for Vail. North America has much less vertical, is much more expensive (For example Vail is around $110/day for a lift pass), and the food on mountain is crap and expensive (think $15 for a crappy food service cafeteria hamburger)
I can think of two exceptions though.
1. Europe is having a crappy snow year and North America is doing well, so you want to chase powder
2. You want to start riding off piste. Anything in-bounds in America is avalanche controlled, even if it is not on a piste. I guess it would be like we have pistes, and then anything that is not a piste, but in bounds would be like a ski route. You can get off into the trees, or in a big powder filled bowl by yourself and feel pretty safe. No one uses guides in bounds here.
However, if you were to come across the pond, I would not recommend Vail. A good option for Colorado would be to stay in either Dillon or Frisco. Then, you are a ~10 min drive to Breckenridge, Copper, Keystone and Arapahoe Basin. Vail would be about 30 min from there. Both towns are much cheaper than staying at the ski resort (especially Vail, which is very pricey). However, it would not be ski in or or, and you would have to drive every day.
If you want to ride good mountains with powder, look at Jackson Hole, WY; Snowbird or Alta, UT; or Squaw and other Lake Tahoe, CA resorts. However, if I was coming from Europe and wanted to ride good terrain and powder, I’d head to Canada. Revelstoke, Kicking Horse, Sunshine Village. All the Canadian ones are on my hopeful list for next year. They are the closest to the big mountains of Europe.
I would not fly over here if:
1. You ride only pistes. Over here, they are wider, but much shorter and can get pretty crowded. There are almost no gondolas or trams or bubbl lifts. Just basic chairlifts. The base chair lifts at Breckenridge and the back bowls lift at Vail are known for very long lift line ~30-40 minutes.Yeah, they suck
2. You ride big, gnarly terrain. The most vert I know of in Colorado is Breck, with 3,300’. But it takes three chairs to get that elevation, and you can’t easily lap it. I’d say go to British Columbia, Canada or Alaska, but I have never been to either (yet)
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
FAQ
