 Poster: A snowHead
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Hello Snowheads,
I've read a few threads on this and just want to double check that I've got this right.
We have 2 pairs of salopettes which are both soaking in water, 1 more so rather than the other.
We have 2 jackets which are still repelling water.
All have been washed in everyday non-bio washing detergent. the salopettes more often than the jackets. I now realise that this has probably washed out some of the water repellent treatment (DWP I believe it's called). I should have used soap flakes or Tech Wash and then tumble dried them. (Don't have a tumble drier though  )
So I've ordered some Nickwax Direct Spray on and here's what I think I should do. Am I right?
1. Take a trip to the launderette and wash the jackets in soap flakes then tumble dry them to reactivate the DWP. No need for anything else as they are not soaking in water yet?
2. Also wash and tumble dry the salopettes to reactivate any DWP that is left.
3. Then treat them with Nickwax Direct Spray On (as opposed to the Wash In as they both seem to have PU coatings inside the fabric). Nickwax website says 'No need to dry the clothes before applying the spray' So should I wash them again and spray while wet or can I spray them when dry?
All advice gratefully received.
Many thanks
Jo
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Liquid soap is better than soap flakes, if you can find something suitable. That's basically what techwash is (only vastly more expensive). Can't remember the sort that was recommended to me offhand. Soapflakes will do in a pinch, but you might need to do a second rinse to get rid of any residue left on the fabric.
Step 2 is pointless. A quick tumbledry after spraying with nikwax will do both coatings at the same time.
Do you know what the waterproof fabric in your clothes actually is? Do the manufacturers offer any useful advice? Be aware that some waterproof fabrics can just die eventually.
And the magic words you were after were probably Durable Water Repellency. Good luck 
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Serriadh, I don't know what the fabric is or what it's treated with - no clues on the care labels and the tags when bought are long gone. One set are Surfanic brand and they seem to have lasted longer than the other set which are Dare2Be. Neither of their websites are particularly helpful.
The Nikwax website says there is no need to tumble dry after spraying - apparently the product is not heat activated?
I think I've mixed up my abbreviations - I was thinking water repellent polymer which of course is WRP not DWP Anyway you get the gist....
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Jo66, Wash the items with Tech wash or Graingers and then reproof them with the Wash-in waterproofer, then a light spin and drip dry on the line or over the bath. If your kit is quite old it may be beyond redemption especially if it has been washed a lot with normal powder. However if you are a canny shopper in the sales you can probably just get some new salopettes for not much more than the price of the washing products!
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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?snowyowl, I thought that the Wash In was not suitable for breathable garments i.e. most ski gear
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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Jo66, wash in most definitely suitable for breathable stuff
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Try "woolite" for residue free washing.
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I read somewhere that using normal detergents only "masks" the action of the DWP.
The detergent does *not* destroy it.
And that the re-proofing stuff needs to bond to the DWP that the manufacturer originally applied.
So, if the garment is particularly manky;
1. wash in normal detergent to get rid of all the oil & slime & whatever
2. wash in soap /tek-wash to get rid of detergent residues
3. then use the reproofing.
Normally, I just used steps 2,3.
But using all of steps 1,2,3 helped me restore a jacket that I thought was completely shot.
(Which was a shame, cuz I was about to ask for a new replacement under the warranty  )
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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One word of warning, Nicwax turned my nice breathable mountain bike jacket in to a boil-in-the-bag affair.
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Y'see I've always wondered about this stuff. My jacket (Nike ACG Goretex) just says 30deg wash with powdered detergent, rinse in clear water and dry (it can even be tumbled but I don't I just hang it to dry in the bathroom or on the line if the weather's good). No recommendations to use specialist cleaners or proofing agents. I follow the instructions and it stays waterproof and breathable. Why would I need the extra faff and expense? The jacket get used throughout the year not just for skiing.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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halfhand, I've been doing the techwash/TX direct thing for, oh, about 20 years on all manner of things, various forms of goretex, SOS (Event?) and always had good results. Typically start doing the reproof only once the jacket stops being naturally repellent and waterproof.
My last jacket lasted about 12 years and around 600 skis days. (Goretex XCR). It finally began to leak through worn holes. The trousers that more or less accompanied it throughout have holes in the seat. No washin is going to fix that!
For fleeces, my high loft MH MOnkeyman does not like ordinary soap powder and comes out horrible when faced with fabric softener - ugh. Thankfully Techwash returned it to its normal fluffy self. I believe that many of the modern washing products contain stuff that membranes and DWRs don't like.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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| under a new name wrote: |
| stops being naturally repellent |
Given enough use, ski clothing becomes more naturally repellent, not less. That is when it really needs a special wash.
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moffatross, in places, rather than all over, non?
Maybe I'm too clean.
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You know it makes sense.
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| halfhand wrote: |
| I follow the instructions and it stays waterproof and breathable. Why would I need the extra faff and expense? |
When the surface fabric of a goretex-style garment wets out, breathability drops. Sprucing up the DWR extends the period of time that the garment breathes well when used in rain. It isn't essential... the waterproof membrane is still there after all, but it certainly helps.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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under a new name, Serriadh, Fair dos, so why not indicate this in the washing destructions with the garment then (other than to sell more garments )?
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Poster: A snowHead
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Some fabrics need to be ironed after washing to retain water repellence i.e. SOS
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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| Jo66 wrote: |
| ?snowyowl, I thought that the Wash In was not suitable for breathable garments i.e. most ski gear |
The wash-in type is suitable for all shell jackets, but not recommended for insulated jackets - which generally require the spray-on type. You can use the spray-on proofer on pretty much any type of jacket but it is a bit messy to apply. The wash-in stuff is more convenient if you happen to have a shell jacket.
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