 Poster: A snowHead
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Hi Snowheads!
I'm off to Les Saisies on Saturday. I can't wait! I've seen a few older posts about the resort, but I was wondering if much had changed in the past year or two?
Aside from general advice, which would be much appreciated, I'm interested in English speak lessons and cheap places to get a few drinks. Not really nightlife, but which on-slope bars are nice/cheap and if there are cheaper places to get a few beers after the slopes close.
I'm staying at Le Hameau, which is a bit out of town. I guess this will limit the choice of bars, so it would be nice to know if there are shops nearby. I also think I can ski back to the apartments, as long as there is enough snow. Is this correct?
Thanks, Ian
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Not really nightlife
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that's good. 
Main changes in the last few years:
Old Covetan lift (slow, two-man) replaced by new fast six-pack, with a new blue piste (Chapelle) which is a lovely piste and an alternative to the red Sangliers for getting to Crest Voland. Also Chamois drag replaced by a chairlift. Not an improvement, in my mind - the drag was steep but quite short, and faster than the new chair - which has brought in a lot of skiers who are not really competent to ski the red and black pistes in that sector.
For English speaking lessons you'll need to book private lessons. I recommend the ESI (Glisse Passion) and, if you can get them, Stéphane or Frank A (there are two Franks, hence the need for the A). Their English is adequate for the purpose and prices for private lessons are very good (€62 for 2 hours). Book as soon as possible - they have a website with phone numbers etc.
The cheapest bar for beers and lunch is the "Chalet des Frumiers" at the top of the nursery slope, but most of its tables are outside so it's best in good weather. The Arome Antique at the bottom of the Legette chair is a good restaurant - their plat du jour is usually an excellent buy. The Benetton, on the Col de Lezette, is expensive - approaching the sort of prices you'd pay somewhere like Val D'Isere! But lovely views to sit outside on a sunny day and their draft cider is good - so I'm told, I don't drink cider.
I think there might be a small rather fancy shop and a "traiteur" of some sort at the Hameau, but they are probably expensive. There are fairly frequent ski buses in and out of Les Saisies - but you will presumably have a car?
I've never known there to be not enough snow to ski to and from the Hameau - and you certainly won't have any problem next week. The snow is well above average depths at the moment.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Thanks Pam, that's very helpful! The upgraded lifts and new runs are interesting. Some of them have been updated on my "up to date" ski app, some haven't. I'll be using a paper map on the slopes though!
Thanks for the info on bars/lunches. What is the restaurant like at the top of Chamois?
No, we won't have a car. We're getting a transfer from Geneva and back.
Am I right in thinking that the Hameau is off the Carrets lift?
The snow forecast is certainly looking good. We should have 26cm falling on our arrival apparently!
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Yes, the Hameau is off the Carrets lift. It's a slow lift. Generally it will be more entertaining to get there from the top of Mt Bisanne though the green run on the Carrets lift is perfect for beginners. Make sure you also take on board the new "Trois Coins" drag lift at Praz sur Arly which provides a fast way back from that end of the domaine, without having to zig zag the drag lifts across the Arly Valley.
The resto at the top of the Chamois is the "Panoramique" - it claims to have one of the best views in the entire Alps and it must come pretty close. It's OK - a big place, sometimes a nice fire to sit by. Because I have my own apartment and am there for many weeks I rarely eat out, and would never have lunch up at the Panoramique because it's so close to home. Speaking of which, be sure to drop down to Bisanne 1500 - the Bouquetins is a nice, not difficult in decent snow, black run and the alternative Planay is a nice cruisy blue, with beautiful views across to Mont Blanc. The Refuge restaurant, on the side of the Planay a few hundred yards above the chairlift, is excellent and has either a lovely terrace sitting area or a cosy inside for cold days.
Further afield, can strongly recommend "Le Petit Tetras" near the top of the Cret du Midi chair in Praz sur Arly - and the Serrasson in the same area. The Petit Tetras is small and cosy and perfect for a chilly day. The Serasson has a wonderful terrace with panoramic views across to Mont Blanc and Megeve. The Montagnettes restaurant between Praz sur Arly and Flumet is also extremely good, plat du jour generally worthwhile, around €12. Crest Voland is well worth a visit and the restaurant at the top of the mountain there is good.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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We stayed in Le Hameau de Beaufortain a few years ago. It is great for ski to and from the door. We stayed in a building called Gouter (I think) which was one of the nearest to the piste but all are near. There is a very good ski hire shop next to the residence. It would be a bit of a walk into town in the evening to go to bars etc. Maybe you could walk there and get a taxi back up the hill. We had a hire car so did not try walking.
Our children had ESF lessons starting at the meeting point just below the residence. One of the ESF Instructors Alex was very good if he is still there. The group sizes were very small (3 children) at this meeting point as I imagine most people book the central village meeting point.
We really enjoyed the skiing in Les Saisies and Crest Voland. Lots of pretty tree lined runs, views of Mont Blanc, choice of mountain cafes. If you try and do the circuit to Notre Dame and back via Crest voland there is a short section which is linked by bus. Bear in mind that the bus does not run over the long lunch break!
Am sure you will have a great time there.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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Bear in mind that the bus does not run over the long lunch break!
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the ski bus timetables are available from the tourist office - make sure you get up to date ones. The buses are generally reliable except in the most dire weather, but not frequent, so you need to heed the timetable. I'd personally do Crest Voland on one day, Notre Dame one day and then all the way over to Praz sur Arly another day. That's all on skis, no buses required. There are two ways to get to praz sur Arly but the quickest is across the liaison from the top of Mont Vores. It's quite energetic - there's a short uphill section (generally walk with skis on shoulders) but then a long very gentle downhill with a few skating sections. Not recommended for boarders. A stunningly beautiful ski across the ridge, with the Hauteluce Valley and Mont Blanc/Col du Joly on one side, and down into the Arly Valley on the other. Really makes you feel like you're travelling, and well away from lifts.
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Thank you very much for the info. I'll make sure I get a bus timetable!
The run to Praz sur Arly sounds lovely. I can't wait to get my skis on!
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