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Empty slopes and lovely snow: Chamonix

 Poster: A snowHead
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Well, I'm back from Chamonix, back at work, sad at both.

Had an amazing time (except when excessively cold). Went up Grandes Montet - gorgeous views, but was just too cold to do anything other than attempt to get down as fast as possible. -24 where you get off the gondola, colder outside+wind chill (I feel the cold easily. Cr@p circulation.) Pity - as once past the non-pisted bit the black run down was perfect - but I was cold and had the fear from the previous section and was Grumplestiltskin, so didn't enjoy it.

First couple of days the Brevent/Flegere bit wasn't groomed - and I wondered whether I'd made wrong decision about the red kneissls. Then the pistes were groomed and everything changed. Had SO much fun swooshing, and apparently my skiing has massively improved from the last time the guys saw me. Still need to lose the fear before I can do turns which aren't cut short with some sneaky braking sliding, but... whooosh!

Had private group lesson with ESF guy - wasn't unduly impressed. Gave the other guys a couple of tips, but to me just said I had the right body position and should keep it. Thanks. Useful ish, I guess. (How about improving on everything else, tips on completing my larger turns etc?)

So - finally starting to be able to almost ski on groomed runs. I get the fear on choppy runs, and return to crappy skiing that doesn't do the skis justice. That's my next goal - more confidence on less than perfect pistes. And perhaps learning to handle bumps/moguls.

Had a couple of weird 'my ski just came off' incidents - happened twice in the week ... I assume this means I should get the fitting checked? Except it only happened twice, and while both times the right foot, that doesn't mean it was the same ski on that foot. Maybe snow on boot as putting in binding or something? Ignore?

But most importantly - the pistes were empty. Where was everyone? I started to wonder whether an apocalypse had happened. Not that I minded.


(The people in the pic are my group.)

Is last week normally this quiet? If so, must remember for next year.

Was at an Ingham's hotel thing (Sapinere) - delicious food (wine a bit crap), and tons of. Staff lovely too. And when friends got stuck in Geneva overnight, got hotel rooms sorted for them.

Ended up at Chambre 9 a couple of eves - nice apres ski, though walk back after was an back bottom. Damn boarders with their walkable inable boots. Band there decent, and proved you can be fat and 40 and still pull ~18-year olds (still with braces - ewww) if you're lead singer/guitar. (I'm not bitter, no. I'M 30 SOON! *sob* Sad ) Lead guitarist looked a bit like Jimmy Carr.

Need to investigate mittens before next trip. Was whimpering with pain from the cold at times (and I don't mind a bit of pain wink normally). Need to get those hand warmer teabag things (had a cheap one from santa - it activated and burst in my bag, which was mildly irritating.) Also need to investigate wax - have left the skis with friend in Geneva, but they'll need waxing soonish. A couple of scratches (nowt too deep) because I refuse to not ski just because I now own the skis, and whiter areas at the edges of the base where the wax is ... drier?
Does the notwax work in proper cold? Just to keep them going till I can get them to a waxer?

Might also need to save for new boots. Toes got ridiculously cold. Had to compromise with not as tight as I wanted boots to keep some semblance of blood flow to them. Perhaps boots don't need to be as tight as I think? Or my 'toes go white in cold dojo' circulation is simply incompatible with cold weather?

Oh. Hello everyone!
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Nice pics snowHead Tempted to go there in March (or is 5 ski trips in one season too greedy?)

Last time we skied slopes that empty was on arrival at last year's birthday bash. It was -29C so all the sensible people were inside by the fireplace. Think that was the day we got chased off the mountain by piste patrol Twisted Evil

Oh, and happy birthday for whenever the big day is.
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Quote:

Tempted to go there in March

don't expect empty slopes as in the pictures above - first two weeks are Paris holidays. Expect massive queues.

OliviaDB, if your boots are otherwise good, get warmers, they're great. And yes, mitts and teabags should do the trick with the cold. And maybe not go up the GM when it's -25 up there? wink
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andy wrote:

Oh, and happy birthday for whenever the big day is.


Not for another month and a bit. It's just the first scary one. Hence on mind. Razz
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Quote:

It's just the first scary one

they get easier after the first one. wink
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pam w wrote:
Quote:

Tempted to go there in March

don't expect empty slopes as in the pictures above - first two weeks are Paris holidays. Expect massive queues.

OliviaDB, if your boots are otherwise good, get warmers, they're great. And yes, mitts and teabags should do the trick with the cold. And maybe not go up the GM when it's -25 up there? wink


Unsure if they're otherwise good. They feel good, and I can get them to right degree of tightness, but then (in cold) is too tight for toes to stay bearable.
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OliviaDB wrote:
But most importantly - the pistes were empty. Where was everyone? I started to wonder whether an apocalypse had happened. Not that I minded.


I don't recognise the first pic, where is that?

The instructor I've had a few lessons with told me that this is usually a quiet period (between the British school holidays and the French school holidays) but that it is also much quieter this year than normal. He said that he is usually fully booked for the French holidays and doesn't usually have a day off for that entire period but this year the bookings are low. Recession and all that.
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Zero-G wrote:
OliviaDB wrote:
But most importantly - the pistes were empty. Where was everyone? I started to wonder whether an apocalypse had happened. Not that I minded.


I don't recognise the first pic, where is that?



Looks like Plancerts in Les Houches to me
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Ah thanks Touchguru. I've only skied at Les Houches twice in five years, so am not familiar with the area.
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Ski off sound like it could be forward pressure adjustment on the binding if you're confident you were stomped in properly. I've known certain makes to "drift" or even not be set up properly.
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Touchguru wrote:
Zero-G wrote:
OliviaDB wrote:
But most importantly - the pistes were empty. Where was everyone? I started to wonder whether an apocalypse had happened. Not that I minded.


I don't recognise the first pic, where is that?



Looks like Plancerts in Les Houches to me



Shocked You're GOOD. You know it well?
(I LOVE that run.)
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OliviaDB, nice pis. Mid Jan always seems like a really good time to be in Chamonix to avoid lots of people. I was there last season for a few day in mid Jan and was also amazed how quiet it was and how good the piste conditions were.

Your bindings releasing could have been any number of things including those you have listed above. Best to get the DIN settings checked on both skis before you next go skiing and remember to take snow off your boots before putting them on again. * especially your right foot Smile

Notwax should be fine for in-between waxes and if you are just needing to ski for a short while, but better to get a wax to protect the skis IMO.

Good fitted boots are the first item of ski gear I would invest in. If you haven't got them fitted, then go to a good bootfitter like Colin at Solutions for Feet in Bicester or the guys at SOLE in Chamonix. You could also just be suffering from bad circulation and Thermic boot warmers or the like might be for you
*Disclaimer - I have never tried boot heaters/warmers.
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OliviaDB wrote:
Touchguru wrote:
Zero-G wrote:
OliviaDB wrote:
But most importantly - the pistes were empty. Where was everyone? I started to wonder whether an apocalypse had happened. Not that I minded.


I don't recognise the first pic, where is that?



Looks like Plancerts in Les Houches to me



Shocked You're GOOD. You know it well?
(I LOVE that run.)


I am cheating a bit as I have a place in Les Houches so have skied there a fair bit and really enjoy Plancerts especially the way it eases into the steeper section to let you get into a nice rhythm.

Glad you enjoyed it there Smile
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Touchguru wrote:
OliviaDB, nice pis. Mid Jan always seems like a really good time to be in Chamonix to avoid lots of people. I was there last season for a few day in mid Jan and was also amazed how quiet it was and how good the piste conditions were.

Your bindings releasing could have been any number of things including those you have listed above. Best to get the DIN settings checked on both skis before you next go skiing and remember to take snow off your boots before putting them on again. * especially your right foot Smile

Notwax should be fine for in-between waxes and if you are just needing to ski for a short while, but better to get a wax to protect the skis IMO.

Good fitted boots are the first item of ski gear I would invest in. If you haven't got them fitted, then go to a good bootfitter like Colin at Solutions for Feet in Bicester or the guys at SOLE in Chamonix. You could also just be suffering from bad circulation and Thermic boot warmers or the like might be for you
*Disclaimer - I have never tried boot heaters/warmers.


The DIN settings were as normal (just over 5.5). Still - will see if can find a nice ski shop man to double check on next trip.

Can't afford new boots atm. But that's def the plan for the next pair. I suppose the fact I find them relatively comfy (if I discount the cold) doesn't imply good fit. :-S
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Touchguru wrote:


I am cheating a bit as I have a place in Les Houches


Hi! I'm your new friend. Happy
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fatbob wrote:
Ski off sound like it could be forward pressure adjustment on the binding if you're confident you were stomped in properly. I've known certain makes to "drift" or even not be set up properly.


All Kneissl make. From one of the Tim's here. Swiss Tim, I think.
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Zero-G wrote:
Ah thanks Touchguru. I've only skied at Les Houches twice in five years, so am not familiar with the area.

My go to option on a powder or bad viz day when others rush to GM!

You are missing out!! Smile

A couple of opening day in December photos



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OliviaDB wrote:
Touchguru wrote:


I am cheating a bit as I have a place in Les Houches


Hi! I'm your new friend. Happy


Wink

Anytime I am there I am very happy to go for ski with you.
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Touchguru wrote:
OliviaDB wrote:
Touchguru wrote:


I am cheating a bit as I have a place in Les Houches


Hi! I'm your new friend. Happy


Wink

Anytime I am there I am very happy to go for ski with you.


And cook me dinner and massage my feet? Friends do that for me. *flutters eyelashes*

Oh, and I sleep on the left of the bed.
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OliviaDB wrote:


And cook me dinner and massage my feet? Friends do that for me. *flutters eyelashes*

Oh, and I sleep on the left of the bed.


Haha! if you get your friends to do that for ME then you can come and stay!! Only problem is that I sleep on the left as well!! Wink
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OliviaDB, nice!!!! Glad you had a good time. Very Happy (You'll like Touchguru, by the way - I've met him many times, and he's lovely. wink )
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OliviaDB, Nice pics- was skiing Engelberg Tuesday, Grand Montets Wednesday, Flegere Thursday, mainly off piste. Wednesday was epic... endless powder, Thursday bitterly cold and I was knackered. Short ski trips take their toll. Hope to make it out there again later in the season.
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Quote:

The instructor I've had a few lessons with told me that this is usually a quiet period (between the British school holidays and the French school holidays) but that it is also much quieter this year than normal. He said that he is usually fully booked for the French holidays and doesn't usually have a day off for that entire period but this year the bookings are low. Recession and all that.

that's interesting. I wonder how general that experience is? I wonder if bookings in apartments and hotels are down, too? If so, the French hols might be less grim than usual, though of course it's bad news for resorts as those 4 weeks is when they get a large part of their annual income.
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Pedantica wrote:
OliviaDB, nice!!!! Glad you had a good time. Very Happy (You'll like Touchguru, by the way - I've met him many times, and he's lovely. wink )


Pedantica, You say the sweetest things Smile
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No clue about the French holiday market. But I've certainly observed a lot of individuals looking for groups this year as their usual group can't go. And a lot more chalet operators / holiday companies jumping in on such threads seemingly desperate to fill places. No statistics to back that up - just an observation.

I'm certainly liking that 2nd pic. Might just go any way. It'll only be a "lets squeeze a few more days out of the season" trip, and not a full week. And if I get a €98 flight to GVA then Chamonix is one of the obvious choices. Although I'd like to get back to Tignes again, preferably with more lifts open (2 trips and still didn't manage much of a massive area). Bit more of a trek, but still manageable I think.

(edit: can go to Austria any weekend. Just fancy somewhere more adventurous as well)
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andy, Ski Total have had almost no surplus this year. Last year I got a half price New Year deal (as had half the world) from them. They've had almost no surplus during January either. Cannot make a similar comparison about other TOs, and no idea what other factors may be involved.
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Touchguru wrote:
Zero-G wrote:
Ah thanks Touchguru. I've only skied at Les Houches twice in five years, so am not familiar with the area.

My go to option on a powder or bad viz day when others rush to GM!

You are missing out!! Smile

I've heard some locals say the same thing and your pics certainly back up the statement. I'll make more effort to ski there this season.
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pam w, hearsay from one instructor probably isn't indicative of a firm trend but I'll soon find out with the start of the French hols only a few weeks away.
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You know it makes sense.
I love Chamonix but it got so expensive I few years ago I stopped going there - probably has had the effect on others finally.
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I can suggest a couple of reasons for empty slopes. 1 chamonix is full of "fairweather" skiers. Mainly well-off, they can afford many ski trips and are not arsed if it is bitterly cold with wind. But they will come out of woodwork on nicer day. 2. Like many french resorts trying to maintain high prices they are unashamedly courting Russian market which abruptly tapers once their new year is over, and also there seem to be many Russians who come to resorts but don't seem to be too interested in sking.
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Quote:

chamonix is full of "fairweather" skiers

I've always felt rather the reverse, on my visits to Chamonix. It seems to have a higher proportion of genuinely hard mountain men than most places.
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Definitely what pam w said!
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pam w, Zero-G, +1
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Quote:

there seem to be many Russians who come to resorts but don't seem to be too interested in sking.

well I did for the first time hear what might have been Russian being spoken in Les Saisies, but it was a group of 4 young people who were definitely skiing and just stopped for a quick drink at a mountain restaurant. I can't speak one word of Russian but it sounded very Slavic (I once did learn 45 words of Serbo-Croat wink )

However, the more people who stay in expensive places and spend lots of money to keep the infrastructure going, but don't actually clutter up the slopes, the better. Megeve (and Cortina) seem a bit like that too - lots of elegant people who don't look like they ever get up a mountain. My sister laughs about beautifully made up women in the mountain restaurants in Kitzbuhel - she swears they had Chanel moonboots.
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Cham has its fair share of wealthy punters (there is, after all, a Chanel store and a Montcler store). It is also full of normal/average holiday skiers. And then there are the hardcore skiers, mountaineers and ski mountaineers. The size of the town provides the framework for its diversity and that's what I love about it. It's not perfect but for me it's paradise.
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Cham def has lots of hardcore skiiers, but certainly many fairweather skiiers. I have met many there, there for 2 weeks or more and with a mot more to do than just ski. (When you think about it, why on earth would you go to Tignes or Flaine unless you are all about skiing?)
Chamonix certainly offers a lot more. And absolutely, you will see many Russians, esp women, all dressed up but leaving the slopes very early to hit the shops.

I was in Chamonix last week and I would say weds the slopes were packed (sunny, cold, but no wind). Mon tues (snow) and thurs (wind) were empty. Was doing VB fri so can't comment.
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Zero-G,
Quote:

The size of the town provides the framework for its diversity and that's what I love about it. It's not perfect but for me it's paradise.


+ 1 And if I could ski a lot better than I do, I know I would love it even more.
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countryman wrote:
I love Chamonix but it got so expensive I few years ago I stopped going there - probably has had the effect on others finally.


hmm - I didn't really test cost. Had a hip flask of rum to supplement my hot chocolates, breakfast and dinner was included in hotel cost, and lunch was made from breakfast things we nicked and took with us. So ... by my standards a pretty cheap trip, as bought hardly anything out there.

As for Russians ... only saw one person being a bit of a knob (backpack with loud speaker in playing CRAP trance music), and he was speaking what sounded like Russian (I don't speak Russian, may not have been, but wasn't a western European language). But he was the only one, and only on the last day.
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Can't speak for French resorts, but 90% of the "Russians" that people complain about are actually Polish, Slovakian, Ukrainian, etc. Never had a problem with any. One was probably one of the most polite I've ever met at a lift.
Now Russians and Ukrainians on the Austrian autobahn is a different matter.

Just looking at flights and accommodation. Forgot the last flight home had changed to 7pm. Should still be able to get a decent day on the slopes at Chamonix. I assume the same lift pass does all areas in the valley?
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Great pics. I hope Tignes is as quiet as that next week.
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