 Poster: A snowHead
|
Hi there, fellow Snowheads!
I'm back from a 2-week trip on the French Alps, one in Paradiski and one in Espace Killy. I've been to both before, but here are some fresh observations and pictures.
PARADISKI (14-21 Jan)
I wouldn't rank it up there with the best resorts, but it's worth a visit: it's large and a bit quieter (in this particular week there were really few people!) and the good slopes are enough to make you happy for a week. I stayed in La Plagne (Belle Plagne village) this time, and though the location is quite convenient skiwise, I wouldn't advise you to do the same. Slopes aren't bad, but lifts are old excruciatingly slow! I just can't see how the La Plagne skipass can be so expensive, considering the resort conditions. The snow was quite good and we enjoyed great weather for 5 out of 6 days. Great restaurant: Blanche Murée in Vallandry, near the Transarc intermediate (you have to book your tartiflette the day before, though!). Internet connection with wireless provider Cybercafé was crap.
For the full report (with links to the photo gallery), check out my blog tipsology - Paradiski: Cozy
ESPACE KILLY (21-28 Jan)
This time I stayed in La Daille, on the outskirts of Val d'Isère, and I found it to be the best location by far, both skiwise (you can reach both sides in the blink of an eye) and budgetwise (cheaper than Val, but just a few minutes away thanks to the free shuttle which passes every 4 minutes!). The weather was quite bad all week, except for sunny Thursday. The snow was a lot, but not too good at the beginning (icy at the bottom); then it snowed a lot, though, so I guess it should be good enough by now. I had been there in March before, and this time I found the resort to be quite full of people, with crowded lifts at times. Slopes are great of course, and if you have never been there, you definitely want to try it out. A good value option to stay is Hotel Bellevue, 100/150m from the Tourist Office; basic, but clean and cheap, and convenient for skiing. Great restaurants: L'Armailly at the bottom of Tignes-Les Brevieres, and Le Signal (on top of the Fornet gondola). Internet connection with wireless provider Internet Ici was expensive (30€ for a week!) and tiresome.
Full report (with links to the photo gallery): Espace Killy: Captivating
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE FRENCH ALPS
I go there every year, and every year I tell myself: never again! Everything is outrageously expensive, flats are small and ugly, people are mostly rude and you feel cheated in so many ways... But then again, there must be a reason why I keep going back, and of course it's the slopes  I went to Austria last year (Mayrhofen + Ischgl) and I was shocked at the difference: spacious flats decorated with taste, great hospitality, much lower prices... The only problems are that weather in Austria can be challengingly cold in January, as far as I'm aware, and most importantly you have to forget "ski in - ski out", since the resorts are usually at the bottom and you have to take a crowded shuttle from wherever you are, then face a long queue to take the first lift up. For the moment my solution is: France in January, when prices are lower and it's a bit less crowded, then take a deep breath and dive into the Austrian crowd in late February-March. But somehow I suspect I might be spending more and more time in Austria.
More tips about skiing on the French alps: Skiing on the French Alps: Unnerving
So, Espace Killy or Paradiski? I'd say Killy of course, but do try Paradiski, it's nicer than you might think.
I am going to leave you with a few pictures... Hope to hear what you think of the resorts, ciao!
PARADISKI
ESPACE KILLY
|
|
|
|
|
|
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
|
| Quote: |
I go there every year, and every year I tell myself: never again! Everything is outrageously expensive, flats are small and ugly, people are mostly rude and you feel cheated in so many ways...
|
Yep, if you keep going to the usines de ski, that's what you'll get. There are, of course, hundreds of other French resorts you could try.
And even in the usines de ski there are plenty of larger, attractive, apartments and chalets if you care to pay for them.
As for Austria being punishingly cold in January, it's true that I've only skied a few times in Austria - but it was always January, and it certainly wasn't too cold. One time we stayed in an apartment within a very short walk of the skiing, and although we had to use a bus another time, the buses were frequent and not too crowded.
These sweeping generalisations about entire countries on the basis of visiting a few resorts really are not too helpful.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
|
|
I was in Austria earlier this month and it rained several times. Wish it had been colder.
|
|
|
|
|
|
You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
|
|
|
|
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
|
| Quote: |
The French are arrogant boogers though no doubt
|
Watchimg listening to some British skiers on holiday it ain't just the French wno are arrogant!
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
|
| Quote: |
Not sure why the weather in Austria should be any colder than France
|
more continental - further from the ameliorating effects of an ocean.
| Quote: |
The French are arrogant boogers though no doubt
|
I honestly don't think that's generally true - though they can give as good as they get when faced with hordes of ignorant foreigners who can't be @rsed to learn even a few basic phrases in a foreign languages and moan constantly about the price of beer and ugliness of the local housing stock. 
I've not found French people round where we stay arrogant in the least - rather the reverse. Friendly, helpful and kind. They are also often apologetic (needlessly) about not speaking English.
When my son broke his ankle toboganning in Austria he and his girlfriend had rented a room in a private house. Their hostess was incredible - she gave Nadine a lift down to the hospital to visit, and when he was discharged, drove down again (some distance) to pick him up and bring him back. When one of my friends had a bad fall in Chamonix, years ago, she had to go to Sallanches several times for physio and the woman who ran the little hotel they were in took her in several times and looked after her beautifully.
There are good - and not so good - people everywhere.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Quote: |
These sweeping generalisations about entire countries on the basis of visiting a few resorts really are not too helpful.
|
They are generally true and I think they can be useful. How many times do you get people coming on SH's asking for resort suggestions with minimal information and/or requirements. Most people who go skiing to France go to the major well known ski areas. I wouldn't phrase things in quite the way the OP did but I can't say he's got his generalisations far wrong.
As for the arrogance of the French. I don't know if arrogance is the correct or full description to attach. But I do know what people mean when they say it. I prefer to talk about the "gallic shrug" myself. The seemingly standard response to any but the standard question. Again, of course it's a generalisation, there are exceptions. Again though if you want people to quickly know what to expect.
I don't see the big problem with generalisations to be honest, other than one hopes that nobody assumes they are all encompassing.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I was in La Plagne the same week as the OP. My observations as follows:
Snow was fantastic, pistes were well tended and as good as any other resort I have visited. They were well signed. Some great variation from up high at Roche de Mio or right down through lovely tree lined areas at Montablbert and Montchavin.
Chairlifts (some relatively new )were just the same speed as any I've been on in Italy or Austria...not sure how fast you really want to go on a chairlift? Often nice to relax and enjoy the views!
French as a generalisation are no ruder or arrogant than anyone. They are often not shy in treating you badly if you treat them badly.
We found the local ski workers civil, helpful and perfectly polite.
We got ski pass in a 2 for 1 deal so try shopping about a bit (£99 per adult for a weeks ski pass is almost unbeatable I would think)
I'd have no hesitation in going back this season or any other for that matter.
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Thanks, Layne And Arno, you've certainly given me something to think about with that article
I am sorry about generalising... Though I must say I have quite extensive skiing experience in France (not so in Austria, but then again!). I could go on forever with real-life anecdotes which just left me speechless. And while I'm certainly happy to know you have met friendly people, Pam, and I have met some too, my general experience there - and that of 95% of people I've discussed the subject with - has been unpleasant in terms of the relationship with the locals.
I do speak some French, and I honestly don't consider myself an "ignorant foreigner"; I always try to be polite, I leave the flats in perfect conditions, I don't vomit on the sidewalks, you know... Besides, I am aware that people living there have a lot of work to do and a lot of people to attend during the ski season. Despite all this, I have often been faced with appalling reactions and very little helpfulness. It could be me, of course, but then why did everything work so smoothly in Austria? I behaved the same way in both countries, and I speak much more French than German, but really, it was a whole different world.
Having said that, just because it somehow seems the case, let me stress that some of my best friends are French... And they seem to have the same impression about their own resorts. So I hope we can rule blatant racism out Not to mention objective factors such as prices: 380€ for a studio flat in La Daille in low season, 400€ for a flat with separate bedroom and free wireless connection in Mayrhofen in high season. 120€ to rent skis and poles in Val d'Isère in low season, 100€ to rent skis, poles and helmet in Ischgl in high season. Not much to discuss about that, right?
I have simply stated my opinions based on years of experience skiing in France. If you were to read more of my blog, anyway, you'd see that my style is quite ironic across the board - I even make fun of myself for being strongly opinionated... so I hope people can read between the lines and smile black/white statements away
|
|
|
|
|
|
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
|
|
|
|
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
|
That's quite interesting Pam, thank you!
I usually go to larger resorts because (1) I like to try many different slopes rather than repeat the same ones over and over, (2) I travel without a car and, since I have to work in the evenings, I can't waste too much time with long trips on ski buses to move from any base resort to other places nearby in the same week.
I guess I'll read more about French smaller resorts after this message of yours - I am sure the forum is full of useful information - but if there are any not-too-small ones that you feel like advising, I'd be quite grateful
Ski on!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
nobrainbcn, read the trip report, just today, about Valloire. An detailed report about an interesting middle sized French resort. Ours - the Espace Diamant - is another. I believe that both have more lift-linked skiing than, say, Mayrhofen. So they're not that small in world terms, just small compared to the French usines de ski. Though there are loads and loads and loads of very interesting smaller areas too. Depends what you want out of your holiday, really. It's just a bit annoying when people who have visited something like 3 or 4 out of more than 300 French resorts make sweeping generalisations about "French resorts".
Like assuming that Austrian resorts all have rowdy bars full of drunk Brits and Scandinavians dancing on the tables in their ski boots etc etc . A few famously do, but I dare say the majority don't.
|
|
|
|
|
|
You know it makes sense.
|
|
Got the message, Pam... thanks
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
FAQ
Especially given that in general the resorts in France are at higher altitude. But I am happy to be proven otherwise.
