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The view from............ Val d'Isere and the Espace Killy

 Poster: A snowHead
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@Steve Angus, another brilliant update with fab pics...thanks!

Great news on imminent 2nd Pfizer jabs for you two...fingers crossed for your July road trip.

Bummer on the dud alternator but positive that you found an honest repair garage and saved quite a few quid. Could be useful info for snowHeads, eg those who drive to PSB each December. Whereabouts is the honest garage in Tignes please?

Won't mention the crick..stop it!

Yes, a lovely proud Dad moment * with Ben...and those much criticised apartment blocks on the left at La Daille don't look bad from a distance IMHO.

* Cue

http://youtube.com/v/MEDh7SKGHtU
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Quote:
I can HIGHLY recommend the Tignes garage!


+1 for the Tignes garage. The last two seasons I've been out in Tignes the Citroen has needed its regular service and both times they carried this out quickly, with no fuss and for a fair charge. To ensure they ordered in the right parts they asked me to bring along the registration certificate. The second time I also asked them to investigate a noise coming from near the alternator. Tensioning pulley duly replaced with a modestly-priced reconditioned unit.
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OK, I'm moving my Val d Isere hotel questions over here at the suggestion of @PeakyB.

I've been to Val once, stayed in town at the La Lauzes, which was affordable and well-located but far from posh. Skiing back to town from the Manchet chair, I saw some lodgings shy of, and uphill of, the Solaise lift base area. This area struck me as nearly ski-in/out and maybe quieter than town, yet close enough to town for a walk to dinner. If anybody has suggestions about hotels in this area, or corrections to my memory, please fire away. I'm also not opposed to staying in town if you know of a swell place. I'll be solo; prefer a B&B situation but half board could work; budget is <€200/night. Timing is probably the last week or two in March. I guess another question would be: is there a better way to get there from Paris than the TGV to BSM and taxi the rest of the way? Thanks.
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@Scooter in Seattle, hi again. TGV a pretty good option I think. Alternately flight Paris-Chambery, then train from Chambery to BSM.

Depending what time you’d be heading from BSM to Val D, there may be a public bus, which departs from just outside rail station. Certainly less expensive than taxi. Whether better overall depends on your preferences.

To throw a slight curved ball in. I think a good option is to stay in the satellite village of La Daille. 10 minutes frequent free bus ride to centre of Val D. Better location to access both Val D and Tignes sectors. Better end of day home run. Quieter but has essential shops and a couple of bars / cafes.

I’ve heard good reports about Hotel Toviere in La Daille.
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@Scooter in Seattle, I think the area you are describing is the Rond Point/Le Joseray/La Legattaz. It is mainly apartments and chalets in that area. The other issue is that the main run to Joseray/Legattaz is Santons which is very susceptible to afternoon closers due to avalanche risk especially in spring so a bus or walk may be needed at the end of the day.
As PeakyB has mentioned have a look at La Daille. The Hotel Toviere is very good, I’m not sure if it’s back under a tour operator this coming season or if the owner is running it again but will report back at the beginning of August (Steve Angus might know more but I think he is away on a family holiday at the moment) Also look at the Samovar in La Daille.
If you do get the TGV into BSM you have another option to get up to Val’d Isere apart from a taxi and Altibus. Snowdrone transfers do about 6 shuttles a day from Geneva airport to Val d’Isere and will stop at BSM to pick up drop off.
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@PeakyB, @muppet, thanks, will consider La Daille. I like quiet, although the ability to walk to that bakery in town makes a close-in location tempting.

I avoided Santons, one can see it is a laboratory for carnage late (and not great first thing either, kind of a gully). I tended to end my day on Arcelle and have a nice sane road back. Would the avi risk you mention also close that road, or just runs on the Santons side?

I think I'll get a guide this time, the off-piste looked pretty choice.
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I stayed at the Samovar on a few occasions and like La Daille if memory serves me right there is a bakery or was in the La Daille shopping centre
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After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
The Carmeline bakery?
https://www.valdisere.com/en/fiche/carmeline-2/

The Samovar hotel looks smart. Has swimming pool, some spa facilities, I think? Never stayed in it (yet).
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Looks like the bakery box is checked.....
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http://www.maisonchevallot.com/en/maison-chevallot-2/

Simply the best.
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@Fogliettaz, thanks, that's the one in Val that I remember.
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@Scooter in Seattle, Just going to throw this idea out there. As you are really only after B&B, have you thought about just getting a self-catered apartment? A small one would probably come in at what you would be willing to pay and give you your own space with flexibility if you did want to stay in. There are options for in town for cook/chill food. Breakfast would be easy enough to sort.

As an example, this is a place at Rond Point (through the tunnel where the buses turn round).

https://www.mountainrooms.com/properties/val-disere/rond-point-12#price-and-availability

Small studios in La Daille would be a bit cheaper.
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@sno trax, thanks, worth my consideration. However, I'm nearly always looking for a vacation from my own marginal cooking, so I can't pass up a chance (even if it means accidentally experiencing blood sausage as was the case last time!).
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You know it makes sense.
@Scooter in Seattle, try andouillette. Or, rather don't
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I cant find a projectile xxxxxt emoji to give my view on andouilletes
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@johnE, yeah my Wikipedia education just now says "don't". I appreciate your counsel; over here "andouille" is a more typical pork sausage with Cajun flavorings. Hot spicy and terrific. With my basement-level French I'd have probably made the mistake.
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@Scooter in Seattle, if you’re set on something in Val D’Isere, with food, close to piste and walking distance of town, have you considered a catered chalet?

There are several, up in Le Legattaz neighbourhood, for example, which might suit. I got a single room in a piste side one a few years ago. Good value and sociable, in my experience.

Tricky situation currently with whole catered chalet market. Many tour operators, or smaller chalet providers, not committing to next season fully yet, which is understandable.

If things settle down, might be worth a look at what they offer?
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
@PeakyB, thanks....it is interesting, I learned the term "catered chalet" on this site; it is not really a thing over here for some reason. Possibly not in my sweet spot; I like to get out and sample the cuisine and varied ambiance of the area's restaurants. And being solo, there is no problem gaining consensus on timing or venue! I usually dine when they open and am gone in an hour.....I assume they think I'm weird but I bet they're glad to get their table back so quickly.

All that said, the most memorable food I had in Val was from the kabob joint on the main drag! Not fancy, just luscious.

I see some lifts have been replaced since my last visit, but there's also a new-to-me surface lift above Leissieres...I wondered why that wasn't lift-served last time. Guessing that any pow might hang around a bit longer up there with a low-volume, high effort lift.

This is helpful and fun.
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@Scooter in Seattle, I think you are referring to TK3000. It existed many years ago but was taken out of service. It was replaced a few years back reinstating access to the tunnel.

To be honest, in the last few years since it was replaced, it hasn't been open much and access through the tunnel has been limited due to snow cover

On the subject of self-catering, don't think you have to do cooking. There is nothing stopping you eating out every night. I have done this before and as you say it gives the flexibility to do what you want. It has worked well for me in the past. As I said, it's another option Very Happy

If you want any more Val info, just post it up. There are plenty of knowledgeable people here and so someone will know and come back to you with an answer.
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@Scooter in Seattle,
Quote:

I assume they think I'm weird but I bet they're glad to get their table back so quickly.


You’d be the most popular snowHead on the December PSB in Tignes, if you vacated your dining chair that quickly wink

As for catered chalet beds. I’ve booked solo late deals with heavy discounts. If the dinner’s not up to standard (very rare IME) I’ve just eaten out most evenings. Still worked out way cheaper than trying to book a solo room in a similarly located (ski in/out) and standard of hotel somewhere like Val D.

But that was pre-Brexit and pre-Covid. The market feels totally different currently. Unlikely it will ever be such a significant source of accommodation again. Nevertheless, another possibility maybe?

As for the new drag lifts. A good way to build a reputation for weirdness would be to use that and continue on through the tunnel towards La Fornet. snowHead
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@Scooter in Seattle, I was in Val on my own for 2 weeks, rented a small apartment in the large La Daille buildings with a nice view over the race pistes which was great for me, small supermarket and decent burger place closeby, but also bus into the main village/walk back worked fine.

I tended to just have microwaved porridge in the morning, and sometimes the apartment was handy to nip back for lunch, using baguette and fillings from the local supermarket.

I used this company for various quotes etc https://www.simplyvaldisere.com/
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@kitenski, simply valdisere is a friends so if course I also recommend. Kim is lovely and really cares.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
More good stuff, thank you. La Daille was not in my crosshairs as it seemed to, how shall I say, embody what people complain about regarding French ski areas not looking the part. Upon further review that appears to be somewhat true, but also it looks like a smart base of operations. Much more important than architecture is great lift capacity serving where I like to be, and there is a bakery!

@kitenski, I like your suggestion of the bus up to town/walk back. I love to take a walk after dinner and pack it into my legs. Hopefully along a river?
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@Scooter in Seattle, there is a footpath to La Daille that seems to roughly follow the stream, there was a high avi risk when I was there so I stuck to the main road, which was deserted the few times I did it!
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@kitenski, Surprised you didn't mention apres at Rosee Blanche in La Daille Very Happy . When I did a week as a chalet boy for a mate it seemed obligatory!
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@chocksaway, I was on a BASI L2 course that I was struggling on, nights out weren't top of the list! NehNeh
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
@kitenski,
I think Chocks meant apres in its true meaning - get off the piste & into the bar. wink
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@PeakyB, interesting to hear re catered chalets. I’ve been with a group with YSE for several years now, trying to broaden the search as there’s a toddler aboard this time and their chalets might not work. Not finding tons of chalets at the moment - any tips for providers?
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You know it makes sense.
@antipotato, have you tried Simply Val d'Isere?
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Quote:
La Daille was not in my crosshairs as it seemed to, how shall I say, embody what people complain about regarding French ski areas not looking the part. Upon further review that appears to be somewhat true, but also it looks like a smart base of operations
La Daille is indeed a great location - at the bottom of the excellent OK World Cup piste, with a choice of speedy lifts up the mountain, easy connections to Tignes and a great free bus service to Val D centre. There are also 2 or 3 decent places nearby to eat. IMO, La Daille is far better than central Val D for an end of day return on skis.

In terms of architecture, I'm not sure how true it is, but I did hear that the main apartment blocks were designed to blend in with the cliffs behind them. That could well be correct based on this pic Very Happy

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@antipotato, well the chalet market is strapped in tight and experiencing serious turbulence, with employment law changes post/Brexit and the uncertainty due to the Covid pandemic.

From past experience, with a toddler, Ski Esprit and Ski Famille would be two of the TOs I’d look at. Mark Warner too, for larger chalethotels. In the current situation I’d be watching and waiting.
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PeakyB - thanks. Yes the 2nd jab went just fine and details on the road trip coming up below. The 'honest' garage team in Tignes is as soon as you come over the dam on the left in Boisses - can't miss it. Where the petrol station is!
Scooter in Seattle - the area in town you are talking about is the Chatelard part of town and there aren't really any hotels up that way in town I'm afraid! Getting to Bourg and Val - yes best way from Paris is train then taxi or bus up! PeakB and muppet have great info and pointers above. Yes the Toviere is back under a hotel format again this year as opposed to be being run by a TO so well worth looking at. Everyone knocks La Daille but really it is a good option! The avi risk just relates to the piste your ok! As PeakyB says the bakery in La Daille Pirate42 is the Carmaline BUT to compare it to Chevallot in town is like chalk and cheese! We personally living down here in La Daille NEVER EVER use it if that says anything - sorry to say! Chalets or apartments are very worth while considering! But in terms of getting a provider and yes as PeakyB says you need to do some digging with COVID and Brexit fall out for sure! However as many have said SimplyVal and Kim are well worth looking into for sure! Kim will be able to help you find something you like!
antipotato - a lot of providers are REALLY struggling still at the moment trying to balance up COVID worries and taking on too much / little accommodation but also adding in the complexities of dealing with Brexit unfortunately! But things will start coming on in line in the next month that is for sure!

What a month and a bit

Firstly sorry folks for being so long since my last update. The main reason was that we were away on our little trip for 3 of those weeks and with one thing and another it has been hectic.

The pump track has finally been finished and it has been very well received across town that is for sure!



So I might as well start with final stage of our camper conversion. It got finished and just about painted in time. My kids chose the colours and I think it looks rather good!





So it is all modular and can be converted by moving a couple pieces of wood from seating to sleeping. Need to get some covers on the foam mattresses for our next trip but all in all rather please with it.

We both managed to get our jabs in then hit the road. As we had not been jabbed for 14 days at the point we went to enter Italy we all (including Olivia) needed to get a test which was not a nice experience for any of us especially Olivia who did not know what to expect poor thing! Anyway we crossed over the Col Petit St Bernard and headed down into Italy that way! A night stop in Genoa and then on down to Pisa and sightseeing there. The campsite we had there in Pisa we were the only Brits on the site and were also there for the footy final which meant it was tough watching in the bar that night although the umpteen Italians were good natured in their win and towards me it has to be said! It was very noisy after the match finished all over the campsite though!

We then had a very long drive south for the day to Naples - it was HOT there - 40c and no breeze - horrendous to be honest! Anyway we camped literally right next door to Pompeii and had a nice morning in there. The kids were good and made friends at pretty much all the campsites we went too and this campsite was no exception - it was lovely actually seeing them make new friends everywhere! The campsite in Naples even had an Orange tree on our pitch - awesome!

We really enjoyed our day driving along the Amalfi coast too - boy its windy. I remember going there on a school trip when I was about 10 years old - brought back some good memories thats for sure! Being mid July it was sure busy but good on Google research revealed an amazing and cheap place to eat atop the mountain overlooking Amalfi itself - stunning!

We made our way across the country and camped on the beach for the night before a nightmare day to travel across the ferry to Greece. In the baking heat the issue we had was that the ferry was delayed by 3 hours and there was no communication at the ferry port. Alas we had a lovely cabin on the ferry for the 8 hour crossing so we all got a nap in air - con room - yay! We arrived VERY late into Greece and the short drive to where the inlaws have their boat.

What then followed was an amazing week bay and island hoping in Greece; LOADS of yummy meals out and lots of swimming. The kids LOVED snorkelling and jumping off the back of the boat and being totally spoilt. We made the most of the stand up paddle board too and it was a lovely but hot week! One night we were anchored next to Rupert Murdochs Superyacht - wow it was huge!

Some of the best times on the whole trip like this of course is things like family meals and BBQ's and this trip was no exception - awesome!

When we had finished on the boat and with ever changing COVID rules / the thought of crossing borders outside the EU if we drove the Montenegro / Albania route we chose to simply take the ferry back to Italy and do more exploring and camping there instead! This time we took the overnight ferry to Ancona and it would have been even better if COVID had allowed the on ferry swimming pool to open but alas not! Anyway it was a HUGE ferry and the 18 hours onboard went very quickly!

Back in Italy we spent a couple of nights in Venice and were RIGHT next to the main in / our shipping lane into the port and it was BIZARRE seeing huge container ships come within about 50m of our camper van! Venice was again lovely but hot!

We finished up with a couple of days camping in Lake Garda which also included a trip to Aqualand - the kids had a wonderful but tiring day there! It was a pity (can you believe it) that when it rained heavily later in the day and there was also thunder / lightning lurking they had to close all the slides / pools... however it was even more bizarre that even though it was school holidays the park was NOT that busy - weird!

So we have now returned from 1700 miles of family adventures - bring on more next year!


This picture made me laugh as our trip on the Venetian gondolas certainly didnt have the toned and tanned "Mr 'one cornetto'" man as the 'driver?' Hilarious!

My little aqua man!

Lovely bonding time as brother and sister!

Not a bad table view for lunch on the Amalfi coast and a decent 1 course with drink lunch for a family of four was about €50 - ill take that!

My (grubby) little gladiator!

We got back a week ago now and in that time we have adjusted to school holidays life in a tourist resort once again! There was the pedestrian evening today like in the Winter with the main street closed off... yesterday afternoon there was the kids show (a comic and magician) and plenty of other things going on. Olivia and Ben even had a go at Rugby last week at the Manchet as there is a rugby club running this year too! However the main activities as always for the kids in the Summer holidays are swimming lessons for the kids (both and especially after their Greece holiday are in the top groups for their age and Ben in particular seems to be a fish in water - he was with kids double his age bless him!). They are also enjoying trampoline lessons too.... its all go, go, go!

This weekend is one of the main fayres of the year the Faire Avaline which is a lovely weekend of amazing market stalls selling everything from fine art to food and pasta to kids rides etc you can imagine! Anyway that is this weekend and the whole main high street will be closed off for the whole weekend. Love it such a great weekend!


Yes once again they are working on the tunnels - will it ever end!

Our neighbours had the Tour de France finally arrive after the false finish a couple years back (sorry Tignes for our weather!)

One of the first fishing competitions of the year at the Ouillette!

Tragedy struck when a tourist fell off the path (to their death!) whilst exploring on foot through the La Daille gorges unfortunately!

The repair work on the Vallon gondola finally was finished too!

Impressive pedestrian evening display from the French junior team last week too!

The Stade de France rugby team have been in town doing altitude training too!

Looks somewhat different in the Winter eh!

TTFN
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@Steve Angus, well done with the impressive van conversion and you went for that special shade of blue seen all over Greece....spot on.

That sounds and looks like quite the trip, wow! Really remarkable, considering all the restrictions still in place. A great example for those overly cautious and worried about travel currently that, with planning, determination, flexibility and a bit of luck, big adventures are still there to be enjoyed. A bit of resilience too, for the more challenging blips hit along the way, which almost invariably crop up at some point. Oh how you'll all laugh, in years to come, about being baked in Naples and lurking around an overheated concrete harbour for a delayed ferry. All good character building stuff Happy

I imagine you might have caught Venice at a quieter time than usual. Amalfi coast is amazing and you're brave to maneouvre a camper van around those coast roads. Bet you used to think the road from Bourg St Maurice to Val D was torturous eh? Like you, we found the scenery, friendliness, food and value there wonderful. Great that you fitted in a brief glimpse of the Italian lakes too. Not unusual to get wet stormy weather up there in peak summer months. More precipitation in summer than Dec to Mar. One reason why the Dolomites is such a great skiing destination, for sunny days.

So what sort of places did you get to in Greece? snowHead
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PeakyB thanks. Yes the colour was a coincidence but everyone in our family is a fan of that colour so it made sense! With the van we have adult and kid sleep inside then we have a tailgate tent thing as well as as '2 min pop up tent' where other adult and child sleeps... we all keep swapping about to keep it fair - I prefer being in the van thats for sure! We also have a side sun shade / awning that attaches onto the side with magnets and under that we have somewhere to sit and eat etc! It all works pretty well! The 2 burner gas hob works well and we only got through one canister on the trip.... the fridge kept everything nice and chilled for the entire time and didnt zap the battery too much and of course its wired up so the battery charges when we are driving or with the solar panel on the roof tops up nicely - perfect! Yay!

Yes there will be plenty of memories from the trip that is for sure! As I said before a few week adventure each Summer for the next few years around Europe is the plan... one of the advantages of being pretty central Europe geographically where we are means that an Iberian peninsula road trip for a few weeks or up through Germany to Scandinavia or indeed the other way across the Alps could be achieved! Yay exciting!

Yes Venice was quieter we were told than normal! The Amalfi coast wasnt too bad... its not really a full size camper van - just a long wheel base 'builders' sized van so not too bad! In all honesty as you say though the roads we drove along there make the road to Val from Bourg honestly look like a quiet and dry 3 lane straight motorway.... windy and narrow doesn't describe it in places! In fact over the Petit St Bernard down to La Thuile and Italy was pretty windy too!

So our full trip itinerary since you asked was:

Day 1: (thursday 8th July (or was it Friday 9th - can't remember but Day 1 whatever) drive to Genoa - mainly a driving day
Day 2: drove to Pisa and arrived in time for few hours around camp pool and few beers - evening family BBQ
Day 3: spent in Pisa seeing the leaning tower and having a family meal out.
Day 4: drove south - a long day, to Pompeiii - had to navigate outskirts of both Rome and Naples to get there! Long day
Day 5: Pompeii in the am... afternoon went for a little walk about the area - ice-creams and a BBQ in the evening
Day 6: drove Amalfi coast in the am and lunch (photo as above) and then drove about 3 hours across Italy so better placed for next day - camped night on beach!
Day 7: Brindisi ferry to Igumenitsa in Greece - nightmare waiting in the baking sun in the harbour etc and got to Greece VERY late at night!
Day 8: lay in on the inlaws boat in Lefkas in Greece (which if you dont know is sort of north east Greece near Corfu) - utilised the marina swimming pool.
Day 9: Set sail - Sivota on Lefkada island for the night - swimming, eating, sleeping and chilling time!
Day 10: Down to Fiskarda in Cephalonia - ditto swimming, eating, sleeping and chilling!
Day 11: Tiny little bay on Maganisi island - ditto swimming, eating, sleeping and chilling time!
Day 12: Back to Sivota on Lefkada island for the night - ditto swimming, eating, sleeping and chilling time!
Day 13: Back to Lefkada marina and day in the marina pool and chilling out / shopping
Day 14: chilled am before leaving at lunchtime to drive back to Igumenitsa to take the 18 hour overnight ferry back to Italy.
Day 15: Arrived into Ancona about midday and drove to Venice. Family BBQ that night
Day 16: Morning in Venice and lovely cheap lunch in Venice - amazing actually! Afternoon at campsite swimming pool and playground!
Day 17: Drove the few hours to Lake Garda and more time at the kids club at the campsite for the kids
Day 18: Day at Aqualand - VERY tired to got takeaway pizza for dinner!
Day 19: Family walk and afternoon around camp pool and evening meal out by the lake and then kids club disco late into the evening
Day 20: whilst kids slept in Clare and I got rid of the moisture in the am sun after the thunderstorm and rain previous evening and hit road to get back to Val late in the day
Day 21: kids and Clare vegged in front of the TV etc as I unloaded van and put on first of about 100 wash loads!

At least I think that was the schedule anyway! There was a lot more ice-creams and things packed into each day and between us we ate enough pizza, pasta and ice-cream over the 3 weeks to keep the Italian / Greek economy afloat a while longer! Haha! Anyway I think thats all I needed to remember to put in this additional update.

TTFN
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@Steve Angus, thanks.
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@Steve Angus, cheers
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Great pics, Steve! Esp love the trampoling one Smile
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
@Steve Angus, snowHead that sounds like a trip all will remember forever, albeit a few images and snippets for very young Ben. You certainly crammed in lots and some exciting experiences there!
Great choice of Ionian islands and yes, I've been to all except that Meganisi one. Brings back happy memories, starting over 40 years ago. Lefkada used to be very big on windsurfing.
Good to get a taste of the Italian lakes, maybe somewhere to return to, which, combined with the Dolomites, has a lot going for it.
You can reveal the secret of where the very good value lunch was in Venice, if you like, as a few snowHeads meander around the city,
pre and post Birthday Bash.

Brilliant pics....thanks.
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 You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
Scooter in Seattle & Pirate42 - no worries.
Ricky B - yea I thought that was a cool photo too.
PeakyB - indeed building those memories. Looking forward to another adventure next Summer! Wow you know Greece inside out! It was amazing! The Italian lakes are nice indeed! Hmmm no idea where the good value lunch in Venice was but the amazing place for lunch on the Amalfi coast was called Villa Ruffolo in a place called Ravello - google it.
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 Ski the Net with snowHeads
Ski the Net with snowHeads
Hi Steve & snowheads friends. I have a quick question for my friend: do you know of any good dog boarding place in Val d'Isere ? They recently had a new family member: a young husky dog who will be a bit over 1 year old in December. So this year's ski trip during Christmas becomes a little more complicated, either find some local dog boarding in the UK, or ideally find a place in Val. Our group will all be driving so the transport is relatively easy.
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