Poster: A snowHead
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Hi, I am going to do a ski season this winter and just bought myself a new pair of Volkl Kendo's to take out with me. It's my first pair of skis that I have bought and just wanting some advice on what bindings you would choose to go with them bearing in mind I will be skiing probably 50/50 on and off piste and maybe a bit of time doing smallish jumps and general fun!
Money not really an issue so would prob spend between £150 - 200 on decent bindings if they were good.
Any help you could probive would be great.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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The new Look pivot 14 are rather nice, full turntable heel, full release toe. all metal heel, very short mounting, quite expensive however, very elastic, no pre releases.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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I'm actually quite ignorant when it comes to bindings and all the terminology involved, can anyone give me a quick explanation on what all these things mean like turntable heels, pre-releases etc. What should I be looking for?
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Look for a binding which has a DIN range appropriate to your skill level - find a website such as www.dinsetting.com to review this. Look for the type of binding which is generally fitted to these skis - Volkl skis often come with Marker bindings so this might be a place to start. Prerelease is the binding releasing the boot when it possibly should not have done (generally important to high level skiing, which you may not be doing - some accuse older Marker bindings of this fault, but not recent models). Then go to a good shop and ask what they think.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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tommygun303, Rather a long thread, but this may help about half way down. Ignore all the stuff on bending brakes.
Your skis are flat skis so you can choose any binding you like that can be attached to a flat skis. Marker has a deal with volkl, owned by volkl, (K2??) hence fitted on volkl system skis.
http://snowheads.com/ski-forum/viewtopic.php?t=54311
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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Snowtrax put the salomon sth12 on their kendos and have it for 140 quid.
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I have STH12 on my Kendos and they seem to work. You can get them for less than £140 though. Google is your friend
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tommygun303, normal alpine bindings are pretty much of a muchness (other then DIN setting ranges (which is where you adjust them for weight, height and required performance)).
There is much marketing puff talked, little of it of any real value.
In 40 years of skiing and maybe 25 pairs of skis I have made a choice on my bindings precisely 3 times. 2 were based on colour and one pair where the choice was these cheap alpine ones, whatever he had in the shop. or a more expensive pair of freeride, whatever he had in the shop.
It really, really doesn't matter.
Just make sure the colours either match or clash with the rest of your kit.
(Although I like Rossi/Look turntables as you can force them to close manually in powder).
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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I kind of agree with under a new name that it doesn't really matter, but at the same time I have STH12s on my Line Prophets and don't trust them 100%. They've let me down a couple of times on bumps when they probably shouldn't have.
tommygun303, if you're planning on working a season then you'll probably be getting a whole lot better quite quickly. That might mean you spend more time off piste and get more adventurous...if you think that's likely then it might be worth thinking about Marker Barons, which will let you tour uphill as well as ski down. If you don't think you're going to be so up for that then anything will do but personally I'd go for Look or Marker (though I'd go high end on Marker if you can).
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under a new name wrote: |
...normal alpine bindings are pretty much of a muchness... |
I largely agree, but would add the caveat that I avoid Salomon bindings (and their derivatives) as I find that my skiing style (or lack of skill) means that the heals pre-release on me.
Another vote for the Rossi / Look turntable bindings. They're heavy, but worth it.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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FlyingStantoni, that's weird? Maybe Sally have designed in a compensatory mechanism for the endemic back seat skier (which you are not).
Mount them back to front?
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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under a new name wrote: |
tommygun303, normal alpine bindings are pretty much of a muchness (other then DIN setting ranges (which is where you adjust them for weight, height and required performance)).
There is much marketing puff talked, little of it of any real value.
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That really isn't true at all. Though I have to admit that I did just put Look Pivots on my Redeemers due to the shiny silver colour rather than bright orange of the rossi FKS!
I currently have skis with Salomon, Atomic (when they made their own), Marker Baron, Rossi Freeski2, and Look Pivots on them (not all on the same pair!), and can safely say they all have very different charateristics.
For example the Atomic ones have a tendancy to fall off in anything bumpy, rutted race courses, etc, unless you crank them right up, Sollies adjust themselves but are relatively solid when engaging though require more snow clearance work. Markers weigh quite a bit and put you a fair way off the ski, Pivots weigh next to nothing (or at least seem to on the ski, they weigh a ton in the box!) are very low to the ski which I like and are slightly wierd to get used to stepping into, Freeskis aparently break according to SZK, though mine have taken a pounding and are fine - very predictable etc. Both the rossi/look ones can have a lower DIN and still stay on reliably. The Sollie and atomic toe peice may be slightly better for avoiding issues with upward ejections -yes I tried this last year in demo rossi bindings by buring both tips and stopping instantly still attached to the quivering skis but with them vertical and me horizontal!
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free your heel- and you mind.
Do a season on tele gear- oh the pain......
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You know it makes sense.
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stuarth, I will concede that there are differences in geometry, which may or may not be perceptible. And weight...although once they're mounted I think that becomes less apparent. And anyway, once they're simply an interface between your feet and the snow I think weight is mostly meaningless.
However, I currently have skis with Salomon, Vist, Rossis of various flavours, Marker alpine, Marker Baron, and have used pretty much everything else, including the old Atomic/ESS-VAR and they all did exactly the same thing. Kept me firmly attached to the ski.
I had one odd pre-release after a compression/roller on Salli 747s in 1989 and one pair of a guest's Tyrolia's fell apart for no good reason but otherwide they've all worked fine (when correctly set up).
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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under a new name, but you only weigh 8st
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Poster: A snowHead
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spyderjon, 10st 4lbs actually
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Quote: |
when correctly set up
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So what exactly does that mean? I can get my head around DIN settings, but I have no idea about any of the other adjustments that could be made...a guy in one of the big ski shops once spent ages trying to explain that you could adjust the screw tension in the nose piece of the binding to affect releasability. No idea if he knew what he was talking about though?!
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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ChrisWo, It adjusts the toe presser ( presser on the boot)if it.s set wrong the Din setting will be wrong
Eg a din setting of 6 may end up 7 or 3
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ChrisWo, They need to be properly fitted to your boot (not always so successfully done) which includes sole length and may include adjustment at the toe for the height of your boot toe top surface (your boot soles wear and are not necessarily all at the same height).
The anti-friction devices (teflon pads typically) need to be clean and smooth, etc.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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I've skied on a few different bindings, Tyrolia, Look, Marker Jester & Griffon and the only ones I would avoid in future are the Marker M12s, I kept stepping out of them all the time. The same care had gone into setting up all the bindings (i.e. very little) but they were the only ones I had issues with, the others stayed on until I fell when they came off.
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