 Poster: A snowHead
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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hmmmmmm interesting.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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This is a cool idea. Good luck.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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I am currently going with a friend we are both reasonable skiiers with some off piste experience, i.e. I'm not fantastic but for instance skiied off the Valuga this year so as long as I take care I can handle the conditions.
My main concern is fitness and I hope over the next 8 months or so I can steadily raise my fitness. I am currently cycling about 100 miles a week training and then 40 miles back and forth to work. I will want to do some long distance hikes during the winter within the UK to build endurance quite possibly pennines, lake district and scotland.
I would like whoever is in the group to keep their fitness up to a high standard over the next 8 months or so as the guides claim this along with weather is the determining factor for a successful climb.
The mountain is not hard I think it is a cat 2b climb which is pretty simple, the main difficulties are the altitude sickness (simple solution turn back) some hard ice (be mindful and respectful) and weather (again simple as good guides follow the weather forecasts and turn back if in doubt). Elbrus is known to experience quickly changing weather conditions and the mountain can be treacherous in bad conditions.
There are annual fatalities but these are generally from inexperienced unguided parties who get into trouble with the weather. The main danger on Elbrus is on the final summit push.
From the Pastukhov rocks to the col and the traverse from the col to the summit plateau there is the possibility of hard ice but in good snow conditions dangers will be minimized significantly.
It is possible to mitigate the dangers somewhat by taking some extra equipment.
Total travel time for ascent-descent is around 12-13 hours
Rising time 2-3 am
Pruit to pastukhove rocks allow 2hrs
Rocks to turning for traverse 1.5 hrs
Traverse to col 3hrs
Rest at col .5hrs
Col to summit 1.5hrs
Summit .5hrs
Return to pruit from summit. 3.5hrs
Total = 12.5h
I'd like to point out that I have ZERO mountaineering experience so although I will prepare for this I will be in the hands of fully of experienced guides .... so please don't think I am your guide!
Ski packages are normally in April-ish it is better for skiing but weather can be an issue for ascent. Peak season for ascent only is in August .... I'm thinking the Mar-May period but will consult more with guides when an idea of group size has been finalised.
Cheers all
Richard
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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plectrum,
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I have ZERO mountaineering experience
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And you're starting by climbing the highest mountain in Europe? 
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I have just located this piece of information and so will speak with the guides as to the best time to climb
When you come to Elbrus region for ski-touring (skis with skins) you must know that:
There is a perfect ski-touring in the side valleys (not in the main valley) on the elevations from 2000 m up to 3500 m from end of January till the beginning of April. Before mid January there is most likely lack of snow and after mid April skiing becomes uncomfortable because of possible stones on slopes.
However that time is not good for climbing Elbrus with skis. Elbrus is icy until May and you will be forced to leave your skis somewhere from 4000 m to 4800 m because the area is icy. Ice in winter is very tough because it is very cold on higher slopes and cold winds blow snow away making ice sometimes polished.
Elbrus becomes covered with snow starting from the beginning of May and is available for uninterrupted skiing to/from the top until October. However from mid April you can forget about comfortable ski-touring in the valleys.
Thus if you are going to come with ski-touring equipment you must make a decision. What is your goal? If your goal is to ski up and down the mt Elbrus top - DO NOT come earlier than mid May. Best choice will be even the beginning of June. And there will be no problem if you come in July or August. If your goal is ski-touring in the valleys with elevations lower than 4000 m you better come before mid April.
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Hurtle,
Yes I know but it is probably easier than Mt Blanc, every review of this mountain says it is excellent as a transition from hill walking to mountaineering and they all say all mountaineering skills can be trained in situ.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Nice idea, but fitness will be key
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JT, Undoubtably, the guide I spoke to last time i was interested in this challenge says the key is fitness combined with endurance as it is a long walk. Around 9 hours ascent and although the descent is much quicker you need the endurance to keep focused.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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Looked into this in detail awhile back. Your best time window will be perhaps late May, and perhaps even into July.
You can take ski lifts upto above 4000m. And ski-cats apparently run upto 5000m in summer.
Last edited by snowHeads are a friendly bunch. on Sat 30-06-07 8:48; edited 1 time in total
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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Another issue that needs to be considered is politics of the region. Its very close to chechnya/georgia and as foreigners you may be exposing yourselves to dangers other then from the mountain. Two years ago i looked into helisking in the region and on balance we decided against going there. I think the situation may have improved somewhat but still need to be taken into account when planning trips to Mt Elbrus. Probably worthwhile to have a look at the FO website.
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You know it makes sense.
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Elbrus was in poor condition this year... not many people have summited on skis during the season. The main difficulty will be altitude and how you cope with this. You should plan to take 2 weeks if you can as this will give you a chance to acclimatize and give you a weather window to do the climb. Like Mustagh Ata which we talked about elsewhere - despite this being a "walk" definitely not one to underestimate. Of course I'm just going on what people have told me.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Friday, June 29, 2007
Dear Richard
Thank you for taking interest in our service.
Yes, you have to choose what is your goal:
Have a ski-touring in the area OR have a ski-touring
on the summit.
Until mid May or even end of May Elbrus is icy and you will be
forced to leave skis at about 4300 m. If you do not have a goal
to ski from the summit and walking in mountaineering crampons is
ok for you you can came in March-April.
There are some areas for middle altitude ski-touring, the exact routes
will depend on very current situation with snow and avalanches. In any
case you have to make the main decision - to ski from Elbrus summit
or not.
--
Best regards,
Gleb Myasnikov
Pilgrim Tours,
Moscow, Russia,
Web sites: http://www.pilgrim-tours.com
http://www.elbrus.org (info site)
E-mail: elbrus@pilgrim-tours.com
Tel / Fax: 7 (495) 660-3501 (Russia)
Fax: 1 (806) 403-5594 (USA)
Fax: 44 (870) 912-6303 (UK)
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Poster: A snowHead
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Yes still very keen on this for 2008 currently with a friend. We are both mid 20's male both good level of fitness. If others here wish to ascend with us please post here or send me a pm. Plan is for April, May but we may take an easier option and ascend in late June / early July.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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FAQ
