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butchering ski boots - how much flex change?

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
CEM, Not once???
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
CEM wrote:
back to the original point, if i was to soften a boot i don't want to be cutting a V in the back of it...even if salomon give nice dotted lines...that rear section of the cuff is a leaf spring, it gives the boot rebound, to soten a boot (if it needs to be softened) we cut down the sides of the clog and remove material from the lower front straps of the cuff, depending on how much difference we want to make

i should add that if a boot is cut in this way the edges of the cuts need to be smoothed out to get rid of any overcutting which could cause a split in the shell



all these people out there with dead salomon X waves as the carbon (sorry looky like carbon) bar had been cut should be able to testify that that was a rebound device not a stiffener


Well said that man, i have seen far to many cowboy attempts at flex reduction by cutting away deep V's in the rear clog, if peeps want boots with the life of a damp lettuce then this is a great way of geting it. The only correct way of acheiving this is as Colin says to grind down the clog sides and the front straps, depending on the desired result 5mm right round is a good starting point, the finish applied to the grind/cut is also an important factor.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
keithski wrote:
The only correct way of acheiving this is as Colin says to grind down the clog sides and the front straps, depending on the desired result 5mm right round is a good starting point, the finish applied to the grind/cut is also an important factor.


by finish (to the front straps), do you just mean a smooth finish and no square edges that could catch / deform

or to avoid any bumps that might focus the force onto a too-small area of the shell - ie pressure points ?

G.
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CEM wrote:
back to the original point, if i was to soften a boot i don't want to be cutting a V in the back of it...even if salomon give nice dotted lines...that rear section of the cuff is a leaf spring, it gives the boot rebound, to soten a boot (if it needs to be softened) we cut down the sides of the clog and remove material from the lower front straps of the cuff, depending on how much difference we want to make


resurrection time - I really like the fit of these boots, so still trying to make them work. Skied on them 4 weeks last winter after the sides were cut into. In warm temps they are now good, but anything else they are really reactive to the temperature and still set like concrete in proper cold. Sadly i dont live anywhere near Bicester (north scotland), or Id be coming in to get CEM to sort them (assuming they are sort-able). The shop where i got it are pretty clueless, so I am resorting to getting info then telling them what to do, so please bear with me.

The shop sugegsted cutting the back then giving me bolts to put back in when it gets warmer - but presumably that would screw the rebound as much as just cutting?

CEMs suggestion of cut sides (done), but Im not wuite getting the bit about "remove material from the lower front straps of the cuff." Either side of the front gap between the 2 sides of the cut there are now 2 standing up projections of ther clog - where would the material be removed from? Top? or sides so effcetively widening the side Vs towards the front?

thanks
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are you really suggesting your boot flex is massively changed by how cold it is????
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Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
My Salomon Falcons are noticably more flexy in warm weather - I'm talking proper spring sunshine and slush warm, mind you, not just a couple of degrees. Transparent plastic is still much more temperature sensitive than opaque, it seems.

Between myself and CEM my boots have had about 5mm dremel-ed off the bottom of the cuff which has really increased the flex. Basically if you undo the lower cuff buckle and pull the overlaps away you'll see they form a curved shape that folows the top of the clog - that's the line that's been raised.

The flex was a by-product, mind you, the idea was to reduce a line of uncomfortable pressure - I suppose your risk is that if you take this off you might get more room in front of/above the heel.
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After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
kitenski wrote:
are you really suggesting your boot flex is massively changed by how cold it is????


yes, honestly its like setting concrete in proper cold. I undid the top bucles at lunch one day (so actually inside a mountain restaurant) and it took 2 of us to bend the wings enough to engage the clips again after. Id be sceptical if i hadnt experienced it too - youd think rather than researching the latest colours, they could sort of plastic stiffness consistency which is a bit more fundamental Puzzled
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Cunners wrote:
My Salomon Falcons are noticably more flexy in warm weather - I'm talking proper spring sunshine and slush warm, mind you, not just a couple of degrees. Transparent plastic is still much more temperature sensitive than opaque, it seems.

Between myself and CEM my boots have had about 5mm dremel-ed off the bottom of the cuff which has really increased the flex. Basically if you undo the lower cuff buckle and pull the overlaps away you'll see they form a curved shape that folows the top of the clog - that's the line that's been raised.

The flex was a by-product, mind you, the idea was to reduce a line of uncomfortable pressure - I suppose your risk is that if you take this off you might get more room in front of/above the heel.


Yeah, mine are that transparent stuff are your Falcons? Im not quite visualising your description and as I will need to explain it in 1 syllable words to the boot guys ... - dya mean a whole 5mm off the whole of the top of the bottom cuff, or something else?
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bitoffluff, http://www.snowmediazone.com/the_zone/snowheads-personal-galleries/p24848-top.html

Now with added pictures. If you look at the bottom edge of the cuff lower buckle (silver), you'll see that it goes right up to the edge of the plastic, rather than stopping a few mm short, as it did out of the box - it used to look more like the top edge. Using a dremel I've taken most of the curved lower edge of the wraparound up a similar amount, gently fading it back into the original shape as it reaches the hinge. The white graph paper pattern was very useful. I've also radiused it off on both the inner and outer faces so it slides smoothly over the rest of the boot.

This has softened the flex a fair bit without killing the rebound but, as I say, this is a side-effect and not really a desired one. The intention was to stop that edge guillotining into a pronounced tendon I've got. It may be that this is a terrible way of getting more flex and the last thing you should ever do to a boot, but these things work brilliantly, are now super comfy, albeit more flexible, and they haven't died yet.

I could probably have taken a bit less off but i got bored doing it little by little.
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We had a guy in a 60 flex according to the brochure which just didn't at all, struggling to turn but it was all there, we suggested the bin, he turned up next in a Head race, can ski gates, it is knowing when to give up and move on.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Cunners , is that the same as what CEM says above?
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Arrrrggghhhh please dont say that Colin uses a Dremmel, CEM uses a Suhner grinder which he polishes constantly and is his pride n Joy. Aint it Big Fella.
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
As usual CEM is bang on that you dont simply go cutting out V's from the back of the boot. Reducing clog height and feathering combined with front strap removal is the only real way of softening the flex without killing the rebound.
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