 Poster: A snowHead
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I've taken to using a metal scraper for wax, it's a lot quicker and, providing you don't do something stupid like jabbing the corner of it into the base, don't cause any damage. I just use the one I use for scraping off excess ptex after base repairs.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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get another bit of Toko plastic for £29.00 to sharpen the Toko scraper 
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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| mfj197 wrote: |
| I must have missed that - how does one sharpen a scraper? |
You can use scraper sharpener, but cheaper (and a lot better) option is just to tape sand paper to you table and you have your own "scraper sharpener". In all those years I spent as World cup serviceman, that was my only way to sharpen scrapers.
I'm not going into "don't scrap wax off skis" and "just use metal scraper" again. Everyone are doing their skis whatever way they want, so I'm not gonna be explaining why not to do this anymore.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Have popped my new skis in to Snowlines for a simple wax - £5.
Will see about the economics of buying kit for myslef and the gf for next season.
So how many peeps find it worthwhile to rewax half way through a 7 day holiday? (not referring to Brazilians!)
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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On a trip I do take an edge guide, a plastic clamp, a few diamond files, a stone and a gummi. Very small package and you can always find something to prop your skis on - like two chairs. I often touch up the edges once mid week.
For sharpening scrapers I use wet and dry paper on a flat surface.
I've never had to re-wax halfway through a trip but I do really work the wax into the bases and wipe Zardoz on each day.
Last edited by You'll need to Register first of course. on Tue 19-10-10 20:49; edited 1 time in total
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| Andythejock wrote: |
Have just bought my first new pair of skis (yay!).
How many of you guys wax your own skis?
Also, how is it applied and is it easy to get it on evenly?
cheers,
Andy |
Waxing your own planks is for losers.
It ranks alongside walkie-talkies in the Alpine Loser Index.
Chuck some yokel skishop-hero a note and get them to do it.
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One of the biggest benefits of doing your own, edges particularly, is that the life of your skis is prolonged. I used to get mine done at the local dry slope but they just took so much of the edge off each time as they used a machine to sharpen the edges. Most shops do the same.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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I've been edging and scraping all our skis and blades (yes, I know) for years -very therapeautic (it says here  ) I have a hand-held edging file with an 88 and 90 degree angle. AIUI the side edges should be done with the 88 degree angle and the bottom edges with 90 degrees (obviously). I'm sure someone may challenge me on this. You need a steady hand to edge manually or you could make a complete mess so I guess you do this before the beer. You should scrape the wax because (I read somewhere from a real expert) if you leave it then, technically, you're leaving a layer across the ski which is higher than the edges meaning the ski might not work properly when slightly edging. Maybe that's too anal but it makes sense.
I use an old domestic iron - I know it's not the best option but it's free. I don't clamp the skis but you probably should. Anyway they seem to work properly i.e. go round corners when I want them too - I guess that's the general idea, isn't it. Regards.
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I'm also intending to wax and edge my own skis so am reading with interest. I'm based in the East Midlands so am planning to visit Spyderjon and some point for a trusty lesson! 
One question about vices - has anyone used the Ski Man Compact Ski Vice? The seam ok to me.
Thanks
Kersh
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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Kersh, the problem with the Ski Man Compact is that there's no height adjustment on the outer vices meaning it's difficult to properly support/tension the tips'n'tails when scraping & brushing for which you'll be applying quite a bit of pressure.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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spyderjon, thanks for the advice. I need to come and see you soon to get a NS tune on my wife's new skis. We're planning to come for a lesson too.
In your opinion, apart from the Jaws of Beast that you sell, are there any other vices worth considering?
Thanks
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| Kersh wrote: |
| spyderjon.......In your opinion, apart from the Jaws of Beast that you sell, are there any other vices worth considering? |
Nope .
I can access/sell any vices that are on the market & I reckon that the JoB offers the best performance by a long way which is why I've used & sold them for over 4 years now. They're not the cheapest but their functionality is, imo, worth the extra cost over cheaper vices, especially if you're working on different makes/models of skis. There's also dearer ones on the market that still don't have the functionality so overall they represent excellent value, especially if you follow the philosophy of 'buy once buy right'.
I used to either stock lower cost vices or offer them on a to order basis, all of which were sold to mail order customers who'd not seen the JoB's - whereas customers who visited & had the opportunity to use/compare the models all bought the JoB so now that's all I stock. I can however still get you any other make/model at a very competive price.
BTW, my tuning lessons are now booked up until June so I'd recommend reserving a slot asap.
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You know it makes sense.
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spyderjon, I've just read your (impressive) guide and, as a newbie here, please correct me for possibly misleading anyone else new here who doesn't know you, in my above post. Do you recommend that I stop using the 88/90 edging file? I only use it VERY lightly to remove burrs/roughness but please put me straight if that's a mistake. I think I'm doing the waxing fairly well. Although I have an engineering background, I'm the first to realise that a little knowledge is dangerous and do not, in any way, pretend to know a fraction of an expert such as yourself. I do enjoy waxing and maintaining the skis but am always aware that I may be getting it wrong. I don't touch the bindings btw. Regards.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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billb, If you're on modern carving skis your base edge angle won't be flat so I wouldn't use the 90 degree tool you have as most skis are shipped with a 1 degree base edge angle with a few models (usually slalom skis) at 0.5 & a few models somewhere in between. Side edge angles vary from 1 to 3 degrees (=89 to 87 degrees) between manufacturers & most folks usually continue to tune the ski as it shipped. Personally I tune all my side edge angles to 3/87 (as shipped by Atomic on all their skis) as I reckon you never know when you'll need good edges & in soft snow it doesn't matter. I've never found a 3 to be less durable & those who disagree I reckon aren't doing it right . I've a list on my website of the factory angles for most makes/models of skis.
Best to start edge work by deburring with an alu-oxide stone as the burrs, being case hardened, will blunt your file/diamonds etc. Apart from deburring the base edge angle you should do all your work on the side edge. The base edge only needs an occassional light diamond filing - remember that when you remove the hanging burr (caused by working on the side edge angle) by using a gummi on the base you are affectively giving the base edge angle a sneaky polish each time you tune the edge.
Hope this helps.
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Poster: A snowHead
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Went into Snowlines in Edinburgh tonight with the gf and Danny showed us how to wax and deburr edges. Will have all the stuff in next season.
Great guy! Plus he spent an hour with us and didn't charge us.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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spyderjon, Thanks and, yes, that is a great help. I'll study your site in detail now! If the base angle is 0 does that make the edges "catch" too easily? - I'm trying to fully understand why 0.5 or 1 degree is better. Aso, if a shop does a basic stone grind, then surey they're changing the edges (incorrecty) to 0. Most peope won't even know that and think they're getting improved skis but they're not surely. Am I right? Regards.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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billb, Yup... if the base and edges are totally flat the slightest blip will cause one edge to engage. Having a slight angle to the edge means that a definite movement is needed to get it to bite.
I do mine to 0.7 degrees just to be awkward 
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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billb, My old B2s went very floopy and kept skidding out of turns on a hard surface. By switching to a 3 degree edge I found an amazing difference to how they grabbed icy snow and kept a line. Fantastic. And I can heartedly recommend spyderjon's gear 
Admittedly... my fat skis are only at a 2 degree edge now but they are a fair bit stiffer and I'll probably take them up to 3 someday.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Scarpa, Thanks. I've owned skis for over 30 years (not the same pair and, athough I've always waxed them, I've never properly researched edge angles. This is great information here. Regards.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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billb, the amount of base angle determines how much the ski has to be tipped before the edge engages - so a 0.5 has to be tipped half as much as a 1 making it much more responsive. Whilst this, or even less, is often preferred by slalom skiers on smooth race prepped pistes it can make a ski waaay too aggressive in variable snow so most recreational & all mntn skis will have a 1 degree base angle.
Yes, a grind will flatten the base edge but then the shop will recut the base edge angle, usually to a 1. Unfortunately due to the machine tolerances this can often be over bevelled so most DIY tuners would request a grind only so then they can cut the base edge angle themselves to what they choose. A true/accurate 1 degree base angle gives a very responsive ski.
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spyderjon, Thanks, that makes perfect sense. When I need more servicing accessories, I'll get in touch.
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We are just gearing up to supply ski wax, if you are going to ski in the uk, indoor ski slope or dry ski slope, check out our half a kilo and 1 kilo ski wax and snowboard wax packs, we think they represent good value for regular slope users.
http://www.skibrum.co.uk
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Buying a Plastic Scraper.... eeeek!!!!
I have a precision metal one. Then you can easily check for a cheap plastic one's straightlness and use that. The cheapest place for a plastic ski scraper is tesco. You'll find it in the school section under "rullers"
Cheers
Bob
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glasgowcyclops, what? you mean you're not allowed to use an expired black amex? sorry guys... it had to be said.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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spyderjon, since this has all been reawakened, following a SHs conversation pre the season before last I too my SLs into my favourite local alpine tuner (Ski Max, Chamonix) and asked about edge angles.
Aghast he asked why I would possibly want anything other than a 0 degree base angle? - for slalom skis, he said, I'd want nothing else.
Sure enough, they were lovely...
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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If you want a decent scraper my vote goes for the big triangular ones.
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A few pairs of skis to tune + music + cold beer = quality evening
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You know it makes sense.
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If you ski with a group and can tune skis you are never short of beer. Surprised no one has factored that into the cost savings 
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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| Andythejock wrote: |
Have just bought my first new pair of skis (yay!).
How many of you guys wax your own skis?
Also, how is it applied and is it easy to get it on evenly?
cheers,
Andy |
yes - easy peasy lemon squeazy
If I can do it anyone can I am what they call a klutz
It is also one of life's great pleasures
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Poster: A snowHead
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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I just use a pair of Aldi ball joint vices and instead of relying on the suction fixing had drilled and screwed then to the bench. I don't bother with a central vice although I have a standard workmans vice fitted there that I can pad and use for mid ski support when working on base edges.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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FAQ
) but am missing the central vice to clamp the binding. This will clearly cause me issues with scraping and brushing my planks. Any ideas where I can buy a replacement without forking out for the whole lot. Alternatively any suggestions for non ski specific clamps that could be adapted to work?
