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Confused about Burton bindings

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Burton boards have different holes in them to everything else. WHY?

Can non-Burton bindings be used with an adapter or something? HOW?

Is this recommended? IF NOT WHY NOT?

Please help. YOU DREADFUL A-HOLES.

Stab, I'm looking at you, Mr Burton whore.
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
I thought they'd standardised (with the exception of ICS) generally you can get an adaptor plate for your bindings ask in a shop ~ €10 IIRC.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Quote:

Burton boards have different holes in them to everything else. WHY?


The obvious- to discourage you from spending your money on another company's product. also, i think they claim more mounting options as you can move the discs along 2 diagonal axes as well as across the board; the 4-hole pattern allows 2 planes of movement. (ok, except for all the brands who pepper their discs with holes!)

Quote:

Can non-Burton bindings be used with an adapter or something? HOW?


Yes. if Brand X binding discs do not already have a triangular option- most have done for the last few years- they will be able to provide (probably sell you) some that do. They want to sell the bindings regardless of which stick you're going to use them on!! (p.s You need to get them for the binding, i.e. don't hassle burton for Ride discs!)
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Swirly, why is ICS special then?

Not sure what protocol is on the board I'm talking about (Operator).
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paulio, ICS lets you set the stance to anything you want, within the length of the cut, in oppose to regular 8 or 12 packs where you're set to where the holes are. IMO I doubt any recreational rider could tell the difference between a normal set of bindings placed one set of holes out of their normal riding position, I say this as someone who rides lots of days and fairly hard: I've never measured stance width or setback on any board I own just set it to feel about right and I imagine that all of them are slightly different if I took a measure to them.

Don't know about the board, I don't have any burton kit as I think it's generally overpriced for the specs you get.
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I think the board I'm talking about is 08/09 Operator, which I *believe* is pre-ICS. So just an ordinary 3-hole thing I think.

What's "EST" then?

Stupid Burton. Stupid paulio. Stupid snowboarding.
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I've got an 08/09 Operator. It's 3-hole. You can use any Burton binding which is NOT marked "EST". The EST bindings have 2 holes on the outside of the binding shell (i.e. not in the baseplate/disc) and are for use only with the ICS (Infinite Channel System) boards.

There were also a number of other binding manufacturers who had a license to supply the 3-hole discs with their bindings. From memory, these included Drake, TechNine & Flow. Maybe some others, not sure. As stated above, a lot of binding manufacturers supply their kit with discs with loads of holes, which cunningly gets round the 3-hole licensing issue.

FWIW, I always use Burton bindings anyway, never tried anything else which comes close for either comfort or reliability.
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It's complicated isn't it, given that snowboarding is a sport that is more or less the sole preserve of people with the intellectual prowess of Bill & Ted from the film "Bill & Ted".

Thanks, stevomcd.
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And Swirly and sidey.
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paulio wrote:
Burton boards have different holes in them to everything else. WHY?

Can non-Burton bindings be used with an adapter or something? HOW?

Is this recommended? IF NOT WHY NOT?

Please help. YOU DREADFUL A-HOLES.

Stab, I'm looking at you, Mr Burton whore.



because 3 is easier than 4

Yes

Yes

Stab is a fag

All burton bindings come with a 4 hole plate of a lesser quality than the 3 hole plate for their boards. Most other makes come with some spastic plate with different hole options, except raiden and a few others. Not important anyway as most people arent aware of any other binding except burton.
From now on all burton 3 hole boards are bottom of the range stuff. ICS is now standard across all the range that matters. ICS is now M5 so in theory any middle slot binding plate (eg ride/salomon) will go on burton boards.

Wait until Nike take over snowboarding, then we'll see mr burton whore looking smug with his rider owned company Laughing
you guys still paying for your gear then I see NehNeh
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Got any old non-ICS bindings you want to sell me for peanuts then mate? Smile
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Another quick question:

Have size UK10 boots (thirtytwo Prospect boa).

For something like a Custom or Mission binding, what size? Medium or Large?

tia

Edit: hang on, textook UK/US confusion. They need to be large. Ignore me pls.
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paulio wrote:
Ignore me pls.
Little Angel
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
Today's discovery:

Retail snowboard bindings are more complicated than I expected.
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paulio, go to a shop and ask them to do it Laughing
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Which shop?

The shop I repeatedly go in and ask them annoying questions about skis and snowboards and boots and bindings, and try loads of clothes and goggles on, and ask them to show me all the little screwdriver and waxing-iron gadgets that they keep under the counter, and once I knocked a load of rucksacks off the rail by accident, and never actually buy anything, ever? That shop?

I'm sure they'll be delighted to see me again. Good idea!
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paulio, Laughing

Have you thought of Noboarding? wink
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Perhaps you could ask at the shop for telemark bindings for a snowboard, investigate growing a fine full beard and google "chunky knitwear". Then you'll be proper cool! Very Happy
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I already have a fine full beard Sad
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Then you're only a set of bindings and an Aran sweater away from those glorious precise, achingly slow, full piste width, knee down teleturns.

It Is Your Destiny!
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I think I've sorted the fockers now, although not totally delighted with the tightness on the capstrap. Not actually ridden it yet though, so we shall see. Still working on the chunky cable knitwear.
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Yeah, I can't get the capstrap (Burton Mission btw) tight enough to my liking. I get to within about one or two clicks of where I'd like it to be, and the ratchet just slips over and over. Is this a fault? It's infuriating.

I can coerce it by pressing really hard on the THING THAT I DON'T KNOW THE NAME OF*, but that's not my expectation of what I should have to do - especially when wearing massive gloves. It's hard enough with bare hands.

*Little plastic nubbin that hooks into the teeth of the strap.
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Is there an ajuster screw (under a little plasstic cap) on the other side of the cap-strap? There's one on my '08 missions which you can move the strap over to the side, away from the ratchet which gives the ratchet more room to connect with the teeth on the strap. I've got size 8.5 boots in large bindings, and can get the cap-straps tight enough with the ajuster all the way over so with size 10 boats thought you should be ok
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paulio, what are the teeth on the strap like where it's slipping? If it keeps slipping they might be mangled: I like my bindings really tight and I've destroyed all 4 straps on the Raiden bindings I bought this season to replace my Salmons after I had to drill one of them off the board. Never had the problem with them though so I think Raiden just use shitty plastic, going to try and swap them for the salmon ones before next winter although the toe straps attch differently so not sure how I'll do that.

I won't be able to check back for a couple of days as I'm about to lose internet access here so won't be online till I'm back in the UK.
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I've had them to bits, adjusted them as close as I could get them (tried pretty much every permutation in the process, with mucho swearing, whilst wearing my boots in my living room half strapped into a board, like a wazzock). Got them as close as I could, but I didn't look under the strap... Not at home right now, but I'll have a look tonight. I can't quite imagine what you mean from your description though, soz.

"The other side" as in underneath?
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Swirly, they're brand new, never ridden them! Pristine.
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the other side is the opposite end of the strap which the ratchet is on (not 'inside' the strap facing your boot).

i have read other forum threads about this problem with missions - i have a pair and the same problem - and it seems the cure is as richardsideways says - move the capstrap away from the ladder end.

my problem is i've size 10 F22 boots in the Large binding and the binding is a bit large so the strap is adjusted right 'in' and when cranked in the cap strap nearly touches the baseplate. one good reason for the old addage take your boots to the shop when you buy your bindings. rolling eyes
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paulio wrote:
"The other side" as in underneath?


No, the other side as in if the ratchet is on the left-hand side of the capstrap, then the adjuster is on the right hand side, the side that's attached to the binding when they're open. (make sense?)

Assuming that they're like mine, there is a plastic cover over a screw. Pop open the pastic cap and undo the screw which secures another plastic strap with holes in it that can be pulled out or pushed further into the capstrap, adjusting the overall length of the capstrap. If you shorten that strap, it'll mean that the capstrap will go tight further up the ratchet ladder strap and you'll be able to get it tighter.
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Yeah, I've already done that. It's on a very 'low' setting as you describe already. That was the result of my 2 hours of swearing, that I mentioned earlier. It's as good as I've got them. The geometry of it seems correct. It's nicely centered over the boot toe. I did try it on an even shorter setting, but it was too much to the side of the toe, and it didn't help with the slippy ratchet in any case.

I can *feel* there there is plenty of give, and that the ratchet should do its job and give me another few clicks. Toe-tally infuriating.
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Hmm, maybe you do have a bad ratchet, or can you see if the strap padding is catching on the body of the binding. When you're tightening up are you getting to the end of the ladder strap before it's properly tight?

You could always try the different cap-straps which burton'll flog you for about £30 or trade them back in for the medium size.
Maybe it's a sign that boarding isn't for you after all... hows that cable-knit coming along? Toofy Grin
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 Poster: A snowHead
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I need to do a bit more diagnostics, for sure. I don't think it's that they're too large per se. Should be fine, according to the literature, for a boot a full size smaller than mine. I think it's a combination of a) they're a bit cheap and shitty and b) I've not quite got them configured perfectly.

Alan Partridge cardie is on back-order, apparently they're very popular Sad
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Paulio you will probably ride a click or two tighter on the ratchets than clipping in sitting on the sofa. Your boot lining will compress and you will feel you want another click or so. The caps don't need to be perfectly central but should not be hugely offset.

Mess about with the holes the screws go through until you can get the binding over tight and still not have the cap pad too far across to the side.
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toe straps are optional extras imo, they dont need to be tight.

do you know under the binding the ladder straps have 2 mounting positions?
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I played with those 2 mounting positions, yeah. Can't remember which I opted for in the end.
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I have now concluded that Burton don't know the first thing about engineering a properly functioning ratchet.
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Broken it then? wink
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No, definitely not Smile Both L and R are exactly the same, and can find copious reports of similar all over the internet.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
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So are you planning to re-engineer the capstrap?
Will you be going for an A-Team/MacGuyver modification or more of an unholy union Frankenstein's ToeStrap?
Or just gaffer tape yourself bodily to the board and get someone to shove you down the hill.
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Minor reengineering I think. And if that fails, stick the fecker on eBay and forget any of this ever happened.
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Perhaps you can swap it on ebay with these guys Quite tempted myself...
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