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Replacing a section of edge

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
In another thread there was a link to instructions on how to replace a section of damaged edge so I thought I'd post a few pics of a repair I did last last year on a board for Mosha Marc. Apologies for dodgy pic quality.
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Edge damage
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Dremel out damaged ends
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Cut out base material & cut correct depths for patch & new edge
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Cut p-tex patch
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Selecting matching new edge profile
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Cut ends to matching dovetail & dry fit
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Mix Araldite 2011
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Epoxy & assemble, squeezing out the excess adhesive
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Apply release paper
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Apply heat plate & clamp tight to cure
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Cut base & side edge angles to match existing
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Finished repair
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
Duck tape would have worked just as well.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
spyderjon, that is very impressive. I thought blowing and edge was the end of a ski. You have quite clearly proved otherwise!!!
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 Poster: A snowHead
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bobinch wrote:
spyderjon, that is very impressive. I thought blowing and edge was the end of a ski.....

Unfortunately it often is. Depends on the amount of damage to the core/sidewall etc. This is about the longest section I'd want to replace otherwise the repair is gonna have to flex too much. It's also a time consuming process & is therefore expensive & so is not worth doing on older kit. The above repair was done on a nearly new high end board so it was well worth the cost.


Last edited by Poster: A snowHead on Tue 2-03-10 21:25; edited 1 time in total
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el nombre wrote:
Duck tape would have worked just as well.

Do you mean duct tape? rolling eyes wink
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spyderjon wrote:
Apologies for dodgy quality.


Accepted wink
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Note to self: cancel MM's mates rates offer!
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Curses
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spyderjon wrote:
el nombre wrote:
Duck tape would have worked just as well.

Do you mean duct tape? rolling eyes wink


No I mean duck tape, immitations aren't up to the job.
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spyderjon, FWIW I found the pictures and their accompanying text really interesting - not ever something that I'll ever do, but really interesting none the less.
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spyderjon, Great post - what is the "release paper" for?
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Patch, I'm guessing that its some sort of silicone surface like baking parchment to stop the epoxy/glue from sticking to the clamp.
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Megamum, spot on.
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Mosha Marc is a boarder as well?

Thought I was the only amphibious* one on SH? Twisted Evil

* Sergio Garcia was called "amphibious" by a golf commentator at the Open when he used his left hand
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Bikeandsnow wrote:
Mosha Marc is a boarder as well?

Thought I was the only amphibious* one on SH? Twisted Evil

* Sergio Garcia was called "amphibious" by a golf commentator at the Open when he used his left hand

Nah, Marc's a skier only but somehow he ended up 'owning' the board after it sustained the damage. It's a long story wink
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spyderjon, in step 8 here the ends of the edges are pinned with brass screws, which rather appealed to the engineer in me. OTT?
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
achilles, the pins are only used to hold the edge in place whilst the glue cures & are more trouble to get drill holes perfectly aligned than they're worth. If the edge & patch are a snug fit (as they should be) it'll be stable enough. It's also very easy to split the edge of the core even if the pin holes have been pilot drilled.
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spyderjon, well, in step 10 Y.K. Idgadambr says:

Quote:
The shafts of the screws are left in place to act as shear pins. These pins, in conjunction with the 45-degree bevels at either end of the repair section, keep the edge from pulling out sideways.


OTOH, I guess your repairs have worked and held - and I take your point about hole alignment and edge-split problems.
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Bikeandsnow, I have/can board badly, but don't.

It was a sort of coming together; tourist and local type of thing.
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spyderjon, Can I ask why you used black ptex and not clear with some sort of colour add to the glue
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Glen Charman, I do function not aesthetic wink

The p-tex base on the board is actually a light red, not clear with a red paper underneath. It's just not financially viable to stock all the various p-tex colours etc so I only stock p-tex sheet in black. I've played around with adding pigments to the adhesive for top sheet repairs & it's a real pain to get a colour match especially as some some dry unchanged & some lighten a tad after curing. Basically it's always gonna look like a repair so I reckon there's no point hiding the issue, especially as most folks want it done as cheaply as possible.

BTW, the park rats & freeride dudes specifically ask me for black repairs on coloured bases as it makes them look more gnarly!
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spyderjon, I take your point it must be a real pain trying to match colours and then the customer gos that don't match
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Quote:

BTW, the park rats & freeride dudes specifically ask me for black repairs on coloured bases as it makes them look more gnarly!



Can you stock some coloured stuff for my black base wink
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Hey all!
Where did you get those die cutters for the P-tex?
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Skitechjohn wrote:
Hey all!
Where did you get those die cutters for the P-tex?

https://www.kt-technic.com/en/running-surface-punching-tools/
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Good thread resurrection...even included a post from @Megamum, it is always strange when names like that pop up...people who were once very frequent posters who are now gone away
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Thanks everyone! I’m a long time follower of feeds but just registered
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@Skitechjohn, welcome to snowheads.

@spyderjon, can't fault a good tool porn site, even if they're of no use to me... well maybe no justifiable use Toofy Grin
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