 Poster: A snowHead
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Couple of weeks ago someone brought this up...he was planning to do the West Face which looks way too extreme for my taste but I did a bit more research and found this outfit, mountaintracks, who organise 1 week guided off piste in Chamonix with the highlight being Mt Blanc (as I understand that would be the touristy up/down route) on the last day.
The earlier days are used for acclimatisation at altitude skiing Pas de Chevre, the more challenging routes down the Aguiller du Midi etc (itineraries I have done in the past). Apart from the odd 2-3 hour ski tour I have not done any meaningful touring. Also, I have touring bindings but no touring boots. I am in good shape. In short I feel I am up to the skiing bit not so sure about the climbing though.
Anyone done this sort of thing? What kind of snow conditions can one expect up Mt Blanc in April (I guess wind blown will be the main flavour)? Recommendations?
Cheers.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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snowman, Haggis Trap did this via the normal route last April, Scittish Skier was also in the group so it might be worth sending them a PM in case they miss this.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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snowman, hoping to do CHX to the summit and back with gf in three or four years on behalf of cancer research...let me know how you get on with it...if you are in the hunt for AT boots, check out the scarpa typhoons...i have a pair and they are an awesome boot...very light but stiff and burly in the DH mode with interchangeable DH and mountaineering soles...good luck anyway..
okbye
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snowman, the first year Haggis_trap attempted Mont Blanc he was forced to turn around because his partner was suffering really badly from the Altitude, it's pretty high up there! He went back and bagged it though!
Sounds like a pretty good trip! I'm pretty sure you would want some better boots, to make it more comfortable and safer... Maybe head out a day or two early to visit SZK and break in some new boots...
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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snowman, Have skied Mt Blanc a couple of times, once via Gds Mulets, once via 3 Monts, down North face..
Gds Mulets route hasn't been practicable for the last couple of years - big big seracs + very broken glacier (coming off the north face and down this last spring there was a seemingly unavoidable 15m abseil, which would have needed some fairly strenuous ice-climbing to get up.
AFAIK most teams heading up via gds Mulets hut are now using N Ridge of Dome de Gouter then on via Bosses ridge from there.
Alot of folks will stash skis at the Vallot hut and finish the ridge on foot. Depends on conditions up high, but the top section is often wind-affected.
Acclimatisation & fitness much needed - from the Gds Mulets hut its a big day (+1800 if i recall.), via 3 monts has less up but still feels like a big day...
Take plenty of warm kit also - got a great dose of frostnip on my nose first time up...
Enjoy.
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snowman, I wanted to do it last May but the weather didn't play ball. You do need stable conditions to do it. Too much snow/wind etc and its too dangerous. There are no guarantees. The guide taking me said that until you've been over 4000m you don't know how you'll react. He suggested good acclimatization (ie at least 3 or 4 days) and some long warm up runs (ie 8 to 10 hours) with heavy pack as the best preparation. We were planning to do the 3 Monts route and he reckoned it was approx 10 hours from the Cosmique Hut. You're definitely going to want decent, light touring boots and skis. You don't want to be carrying extra weight up there. Do report back if you do it!
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The earlier days are used for acclimatisation at altitude skiing Pas de Chevre, the more challenging routes down the Aguiller du Midi etc
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As an acclimatisation program, I'd call that a complete waste of time. The ski down Mont Blanc via the Vallon Hut & Bossons Glacier isn't very demanding. The climb up is. Your acclimatisation has to include some big climbs, ideally to over 4000m.
I did it on snowboard in April 2006, via 3 Monts. Descent via Bossons Ridge (walked), Vallon refuge & Bossons glacier.
Snow conditions were deep powder other than the wind-scoured ridges.
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Couple of years ago I spent 2 weeks in Colorado incl Aspen where I climbed a few times up Highlands Bowl (4100m) but this obviously pales in effort and time to climbing up Mt Blanc. It would be really bad if the group had to turn around b/c one of their members was not up to it... it would be even worse if that member was me! I am quite tall and have a bit of a dodgy back (mild form of scoliosis) so I usually have a pretty stiff back at the end of a skiing holiday; climbing up this big mountain for hours and hours - at altitude with a heavy pack on the last day makes me a bit nervous. But I am not getting any younger and this would be something to remember for the rest of my life. Well, I think I could always see how the week goes....even if I/we can't do it I still get a lot of good skiing done in preparation for the big one.
What size/weight of pack would one need?
Last edited by After all it is free  on Sat 27-02-10 12:46; edited 1 time in total
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