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Japan - two centre holiday inc Nozawa Onsen - any advice?

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Hi all,

I'm in the process of advance planning a Christmas 2010 trip to Japan. We'd like to squeeze in a weeks skiing, including three days in Nozawa Onsen. Can any recommend a nearby-ish resort (ie in the Japan Alps) for the other three ski days, with the following attributes:

1. Ski rental for tall people (I'm 6'5")
2. Not-hideous resort architecture, although it doesn't have to be too cutesy. In fact Nozawa Onsen does sound a little faux-alpine
3. Quiet, easy slopes (40km + if possible)
4. Good public transport
5. Local in flavour - we don't care too much about nightlife

?

We're not sure exactly which week to go, it'll be sometime between the 18th of December and the 8th of January. Does anyone know if any of this period is likely to be horribly overcrowded? I've heard new year is a nightmare for hotels - I'm guessing this includes ski resorts!

Many thanks!

Liam
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Nozawa Onsen, my other half's favourite resort. Very traditional Japanese ski resort (very few English speakers). Late, Japanese style, apres. Must eat Soba noodles. Good snow.

Warning - hiring skis, particularly your size, a real problem. I had a problem and I'm 5'11''. You must definitely arrange in advance. Japanese tend to buy so rental skis can be (frankly) crap.

Onzen in Nazawa fantastic apparently.

Christmas and NY very busy but from 4th, empty and a lot cheaper (universal theme !).

I've only been to Shiga Kogen so can really give you the low down, if that looks of interest.

Another warning, transport is very efficient but if you don't speak Japanese, it can be a struggle i.e. allow plenty of transfer time or knowexactly where and when beforehand.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Place I like a lot! Though in fairness it has been a few years since I've been there. I wouldn't worry about Nozawa Onsen being "faux alpine" certainly the main village is very traditional, with the added peculiarity of lots of hot spring water running down the sides of the cobbled streets. Well worth enjoying the local onsen, especially the O-yu onsen. Will be a bit odd if you have never visited onsen before, but just throw yourself into it - not literally. If it is possible I really would recommend delaying a little to enjoy the Dosojin Fire Festival (see http://www.snowjapan.com/e/features/features-75.html ), it really is extraordinary and special. Expect it to snow a lot (though - possibly much more in January than December). And don't expect Christmas to be European, it is mainly a big dating evening in Japan. One of the few apres bars is the Stay Bar, many mad nights with the owner mixing huge gin tonics and jamming on the piano. Shiga is not too far away nor is Hakuba (which probably has more English speakers based there - don't expect too many English speakers in Nozawa). Anyway well worth looking at www.snowjapan.com. ( http://www.snowjapan.com/e/daily/nozawa-now.php ) You'll have a great time Very Happy
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Thanks both! I'm suitably encouraged. Is Christmas day likely to be extremely busy on slope? I'm guessing so, since it's a saturday as well.

666 - can you recommend and attractive base area in Shiga Kogen? It's looking like the front runner for the second base. And I've contacted Nozawa Lodge (I think) and they've said they can sort out my skis no problem (which is handy!).

Nozawaonsen - I have a couple of small, rubbishy tattoos on my back. I hear that Onsen often won't allow you in with tattoos (to keep gangsters away). Do you think I'll get a chance of a dip? It'd be a shame to miss out!

cheers, Liam
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Don't worry too much about the tattoos, I doubt (?) anyone will mistake you or your tattoos for Yazkuza. Main thing to remember in onsen is to wash and scrub scrupulously before hand so everyone can see you are super clean. You share a big hot steamy bath with lots of people, but the point is you are all super clean already, the bath is to relax in not to wash in.

Christmas is a bit funny in Japan - as I mentioned for the majority of Japanese the day is associated with going on a date and having a slap up meal (and then staying in a posh hotel). Other than that it can often feel just like any other day, I've never actually spent Christmas on the ski slopes so not sure what it would be like, but it doesn't have anything like the resonance it has in Christian or Western countries. New Years is different and the slopes are likely to be jammed.

Christmas can sometimes be a little bit dicey for snowfall which is worth keeping in mind. The first week of January seems to usher in the huge snowfall Japan is famed for.

If you fancy skiing off piste in Japan's super light powder I would definitely recommend Hakuba (specifically Happo One) over Shiga. The Japanese forbid off piste skiing in lots of resorts, but not in Happo One. That's not to knock Shiga at all which is lots of fun, just to highlight that if powder skiing was on your checklist then I'd aim for Hakuba.
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Hmmm... interesting! do you know how long after new year the slopes will be jammed for? I might consider 5 days of skiing, from the 3rd to the 7th of Jan. Although I think the school holidays end on the 7th of Jan. Quite piste is probably my first consideration. failing that, there will be open runs during the pre-xmas week, won't there? I don't need powder (please don't shoot me!) We're going to skiing as part of a three week Japan trip, and excellent snow isn't really my reasons for skiing there. so long as there's snow I'm happy!

And yes, it's quite obvious that I'm not Yazkuza! I'm being silly.

Thanks again, Liam
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Draybs74, will do. Tomorrow, when I've dug out the piste map.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
I think you'll find it starts getting significantly quieter almost as soon as the New Year weekend is over (ie Monday 3rd).

The pre Xmas week is certainly not guaranteed. Since Christmas isn't the big draw it is in say Europe, there is no pressure on resorts to get up and running beforehand. And of course the weather plays a bit part, this year several resorts had delayed openings as a result of mixed weather. Have a look at the Ski Japan website and look at the daily December blogs (in the Nozawa Now, Shiga Now, Hakuba Now section). Scroll down and you'll see they have archives going back several years. This will give you an idea of what early conditions are like. They also have a forum so you could post on that and ask for some advice.

So in sum I'd go for the later week (in fact I'd change your travel plans and go for the Dosojin fire festival - which really is extraordinary- but I recognise your travel plans amy not be that flexible).

On a slightly non-skiing angle one Christmas I tucked myself away in the Choju Kan Ryokan in Gumma, deep in the forest and that year in deep snow. Very relaxing. http://www.japaneseguesthouses.com/db/gunma/chojukan.htm
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 You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
The place mentioned in this report which has an onzen is very central. Tagaharamata (from memory). As you can read we got blackmailed in to moving to the Prince hotel at the far end (there are three of them). To be honest any of those as a base is fine.

http://snowheads.com/ski-forum/viewtopic.php?p=1176877&highlight=shiga#1176877

Any questions let me know (my other real id is Nickski, 666 is a long term joke)
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 Ski the Net with snowHeads
Ski the Net with snowHeads
Thanks both, that's really helpful!

Nozawaonsen - thanks for pointing me to those snow reports. Yes, I see that they are quite worrying! We've worked out the dates, and we'll be sking from the 22nd to 28th of December, three days in Nozawa Onsen and three in Shiga Kogen. I see it's a bit risky, but we've no choice but to give it a go, yes I'll spend 2010 worrying about it! I'd love to go to the festival, but my job won't allow it (in fact my job limits snow fun far too much).

666 - thanks for the recommendations - I'll check those out.

I'll report back in 2011, if anyone is still interested!

Liam
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
An update - it seems that public transport between Nozawa Onsen and Shiga Kogen is going to be a pain, so we're toying with the idea of spending 7 nights in Nozawa instead. Nozawaonsen - would you say that it's feasible to ski nearby areas as daytrips by public transport? Are there any nearby areas?! I hope these aren't daft questions - I'm really struggling with Japanese website navigation!

Thanks again, Liam
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