 Poster: A snowHead
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I'm fitting a new set of bindings to an old pair of 1080s (foam core). I'm about to drill the new holes, but should I fill the old holes with anything before I mount the new bindings.
Also, there appears to be reasonable clearance between the new and old drill points, but at what point should I worry that they are too close ?
Cheers 
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Fill with mastic or other such sealant. Window frame sealant kind of thing
if they're not overlapping, they're ok - better to leave as much gap between them as you can
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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david@mediacopy, 5mm is the closest between holes. Fill old holes with plugs and apoxy resin or just resin if you don't have plugs or the best advice is to burn the skis and get something with a wood core 
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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| kiwi1 wrote: |
| 5mm is the closest between holes. |
Looks like I've dropped unlucky. 2 of the 3 screws on the rear portion will be only 3mm away from the old hole. Too close ? These are touring bindings.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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david@mediacopy, fill the old ones with a mix of epoxy and steel wool and you'll be alright within 3mm.
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Just move them back 2mm? Could make it worse...
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david@mediacopy, What comprex, or parlor, said and it'll be fine.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Cheers guys. Moving them back starts to compromise one of the other holes, but I reckon 2mm should be OK and I'll try the epoxy\wire wool trick.
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david@mediacopy, seriously. Foam core ski, epoxy and two mm. Not for me. Which holes? Are you putting the touring binders on these skis? If yes, and these holes are at the toes then forget it, you'll pull out the first time you skin on them.
How many times have the skis been drilled? Just move the mounting position so you are clear from ALL of the holes by 5mm.
For a touring rig go backwards from the original mount = better / easier to ski in powder & LESS tail for kick turns.
Otherwise go forward which will increase the speed of turn initiation, which may also be a good thing as you now have to consider the stack height of the AT binders...
If the skis had a wood core then I would risk it but 1080s are basically recycled Big Mac cartons, don't take the risk - you'll pull and binding out then have to move the whole set up by 10mm...
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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| parlor wrote: |
If the skis had a wood core then I would risk it but 1080s are basically recycled Big Mac cartons, don't take the risk - you'll pull and binding out then have to wrap sheet metal around an epoxy repair and redrill |
FIFY 
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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parlor, Sorry, I meant that if I move them back by 2mm I'll have enough clearance to on all the closest holes by 5mm.
I was concerned about the rear holes which I'm concerned about as there are only 3 screws (fritschi). Moving the setup back compromises the fronts a bit more, but I should just have +5mm all the same. The ski's have been drilled for a set of rental bindings so have 10 existing holes.
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| recycled Big Mac cartons |
what are you trying to say ! 
But 5mm should be OK ?
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Cheers all. I finally get the ski's drilled and the bindings mounted up and had a quick run on the local plastic - all seemed fine.
One final question - is it worth taking the screws out and redoing them with epoxy ? ?
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You know it makes sense.
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david@mediacopy, only if you plan on doing jumps somewhere where walking off the mountain in ski boots might be a problem.
Of course, I wouldn't take 1080s to such a spot...
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Over kill I would have thought. The only binding I've ever pulled OUT of a ski was a tele binder, and there are much more forces on a tele binding. You are more likely to have broken the bindings before they come out of the ski - even if it is a foam core. FWIW, I've broken a few pairs of binders, you'll be fine.
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Poster: A snowHead
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comprex, parlor,  Cheers guys.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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scottishskier, Cheers for the link, in the end that was the one I used. The main difference between that guide and the one in the box was the 'official' guide suggests fitting the rear first. I think this is so the front section can be lined up correctly when screwed. The guide in the link suggests doing it the other way around, but then comments the rear can be hard to get right.
I went the way of the 'official' instructions and it was fine. I used the paper template.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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| parlor wrote: |
| david@mediacopy, seriously. Foam core ski, epoxy and two mm. Not for me. Which holes? Are you putting the touring binders on these skis? If yes, and these holes are at the toes then forget it, you'll pull out the first time you skin on them. |
I've remounted dynafits halfway overlapping the old holes after epoxing in fiberglass dowels.
However some glues may not react well with foam cores. When you drill don't go too wide or too deep (despite what yer missus might say), you want the binding screws to bite onto something.
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