Poster: A snowHead
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Axsman, I have no idea of the answer but shall be interested in the responses, I'm in a similar position and found myself very confused when I started looking into it.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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at that p[rice range, they'll all be reasonable quality. usually the difference betwee 3.0 / 4.0 5/0 is the qualitry of the components like drviretrain and brakes.
try a few for size, find one that feels right, buy it. You may be limited to specific suppliers depending on how your comapny has implemented the "cycle 2 work" scheme. Can' advise on specific models as I know nowt about hybrids
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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One of my bikes is used for the sort of terrain you mention .....
http://www.kalkhoff.de/html/bike_detail.asp?kat=ATB&ID=9000005046&G=24-G
It's a German brand but there will probably be English equivalents. It has
- 24 gears (If you are not going to be tackling steep hills and want simplicity then a rear hub with 7 or 8 gears might be a better option.)
- a more upright postion than my Cube mountain bike
- 26" wheels (same size as the mountain bike) with a less agressive tread
- Hub dynamo & very bright light so it can be ridden in the dark at speed without having to worry about batteries
- Mud guards so that when the weather is too wet to get out on the mountain bike I can as least exercise my legs.
Typically hybrid bikes don't come with lights and mud guards but I don't want my training restricted to dry daylight hours.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
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If you're not going to go off road then disc brakes are a waste of time, if you are going off road then they are worth every penny. The same is true of suspension, it will just make your bike heavier, increase the cost and if you pedal standing up it will bob and waste your energy if you're not taking it off road.
From what you've said about your riding you would probably be better off getting a touring bike with cantilever brakes and rigid forks with the money going on a light frame and a good drivetrain rather than suspension and disc brakes.
In my opinion hybrids are a waste of time, trying to combine the benefits of a cross country bike and a road bike but achieving neither, buy one or the other. A good light cross country possibly with rigid forks would also serve you well, better than a hybrid anyway. something like this http://www.evanscycles.com/products/scott/scale-80-2009-mountain-bike-ec016240
I can't tell from your post whether or not you've ever tried a modern road bike but if not I would give them a serious consideration or try one out as they put you in the most efficent and also comfiest position for pedalling and narrow roadie tyres make a serios difference to your speed. Everyone thinks that upright bikes are comfier to ride but in reality your back will ache and your legs will tyre out fat faster than if you were in a roadie postion.
I can't believe I have just written a post telling someone to get a road bike, I spend all of my time on a 6.5 inch travel bike taking the wee wee out of roadies.
Whatever you do don't buy lycra
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Quote: |
Whatever you do don't buy lycra |
.... but if you do, the Aldi cycle clothing is good value and good quality
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I had a Scott Sportster (p5 I think which was mid range) which was a really nice bike.
I swapped the Scott for a mountain bike as I found I was doing a fair amount of off-road and the off-road tyre choices was limited for the 700 wheels on my Scott (and found on a lot of hybrids). Much wider off-road tyre choices for 26" mountain bike sized wheels.
The Sportster was a very light, fast, responsive ride and fairly comfortable - I did quite a lot of 40-50 mile rides and the Scott was fitter than me !
The key, like buying skis, is to try before you buy if possible (or at least have a sit on the bikes you fancy to check the sizing and geometry fits your body).
A lot of suspension forks have a lockout now which means you can use the suspension when on bumpier terrain but lock the forks in a 'fixed' position when riding on-road.
I now compromise with a mountain bike with 26" semi-slick tyres which works well for me but your riding seems mainly on-road so a hybrid would probably be a better choice. Why not visit a decent local bike shop and get some advice ?
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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forgot to mention, when I'm not on here I spend a bit of time on the forums on www.bikeradar.com which is worth a look for lots of info on the right bike for your riding.
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rambotion,
Wouldn't riding a road bike around Rutland Water (or on anything but tarmac) threaten a male riders ability to father children or keep his contact lenses in?
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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rambotion wrote: |
I can't believe I have just written a post telling someone to get a road bike, I spend all of my time on a 6.5 inch travel bike taking the wee wee out of roadies. |
Not wishing to derail another thread but I'd like to hear more about your travel bike .
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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My mate got a good hybrid bike (Specialised I think) for £300. You can get a good one for that price... can't really see why any hybrids would justify spending more as you aren't getting suspension and unlike a racer weight saving components offer no real advantage.
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mountain bike- not good- heavy- tyres, gears and suspension all bad for efficiency, no mud guards, no luggage
Road bike- fragile (eg wheels/tyres), hard to maintain (if you know nothing and are not mechanically minded / bothered), uncomfortable
Touring or Audax bike- a good option but some problems with maintainance- looks like you need to be enthusiatic about spanners and allen keys
Hybrid OK option but need attention to wheel sizes/ weight regard efficiency
Commuter bike a good option but lots of models and problems with some with weight/ wheel sizes
what I decided were important to me were; easy to maintain/ hard to break (so I got hub gears and hydraulic disc brakes), mud guards, rack, upright position, looks good- a Cannondale Bad Boy with mud guards and a rack fitted
I think you should go to a cycle shop and have a chat with someone- what do you want to do- will you commute, how far do you want to go- how fast (if so really needs mud guards, rack etc) are you one for tinkering?
I bought my cycle from Evans- the staff were excellent- I also looked at a branch of the Edinburgh Cycle Coop- where they seem to do some excellent own brand cycles for keen prices
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You know it makes sense.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Poster: A snowHead
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ash1098 wrote: |
Quote: |
what I decided were important to me were; easy to maintain/ hard to break (so I got hub gears and hydraulic disc brakes)
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Hydraulic disc brakes easy to maintain? I think it's easier to replace a cable once in a while rather than having to bleed the system etc all the time....
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Virtually zero maintenance. Fit. Forget. Shouldn't need to bleed all the time - maybe once after 3 years of use.
Cable will need some adjustment as even the pre-stretched cables will stretch. But when you buy the bike, it will probably be sold with a free service... negotiate a 2nd free service after 6 months!
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Axsman, if you're really going to ride round Rutland Water and that sort of thing, I'm not sure that you'll get value out of a 700 quid bike. I reckon you could get something adequate for half that (of course, 'adequate' may be insufficient for you). I bought a Ridgeback Velocity a few weeks ago, not very exciting but does the job. It's a much harsher ride than my old Trek, despite having a bit of suspension in the seat post, presumably because it's an aluminium rather than a steel frame. Goes faster, though, probably because it's a bit lighter and the right size for me.
Last edited by Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person on Tue 24-03-09 15:26; edited 2 times in total
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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rambotion wrote: |
In my opinion hybrids are a waste of time |
What type of bike would you recommend for crashing around the potholes of London? I don't want to go further off road than a towpath and at my time of life the riding position of a road bike is not comfortable.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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richmond, change the tyres out for wider ones and adjust the pressure downwards.
Quote: |
It's a much harsher ride than my old Trek, despite having a bit of suspension in the seat post, presumably because it's an aluminium rather than a steel frame. Goes faster, though, probably because it's a bit lighter and the right size for me. |
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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DB, agreed that suspension seat posts are a marketing gimmick, but it should be noted that even the unsprung Brookses like the B17 and Pro work nicely too.
Some would even say better.
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comprex wrote: |
DB, agreed that suspension seat posts are a marketing gimmick, but it should be noted that even the unsprung Brookses like the B17 and Pro work nicely too.
Some would even say better. |
I tried a B17 before the B67 but for taking the edge out of tree roots and small bumps the B67 worked best for me. Put the B17 on my old touring bike.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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How about something like this:
chopper
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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Axsman wrote: |
Thanks to all for your suggestions and comments (particularly Frosty :roll: :lol: )
Wasn't thinking of a 'full suspension' model, but front suspension looks like it might take the sting out of the lumps and bumps on our badly maintained roads.
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It does. Do it.
Quote: |
Alreday got a very comfortable Gel padded seat (on the bike that is) so not worried about that end. :)
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Get real chamois. Gel seats are for those who consider 10 miles a long ride.
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comprex, 10 miles IS a long ride.
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You know it makes sense.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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With that budget.. even if you don't want a road bike, look at specialized or trek - do you have an evans cycles near you?
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Poster: A snowHead
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grace, Nearest is Nottingham. But there are a couple of decen (large) bike shops in Leicester, and previuosly I have bought kit 9and the kids bikes) from 'On yer Bike' which is a textboook LBS
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Axsman,
What is the terrain you propose to ride around Rutland Water actually like or to be more precise what sort of terrain will you be riding e.g.
Road / tarmac only
Gravel / well prepared forest paths
Rutted uneven paths (e.g. with exposed tree roots)
something else
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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DB wrote: |
Axsman,
What is the terrain you propose to ride around Rutland Water actually like or to be more precise what sort of terrain will you be riding e.g.
Road / tarmac only
Gravel / well prepared forest paths
Rutted uneven paths (e.g. with exposed tree roots)
something else |
All very good questions and really the answers about your bike will depend on your answers to these questions. To add a few more:
Are you interested in really pushing it on roads and going as fast as you can as a training regime? Are you interested in mountain biking? possibly commuting?
Re 'On Yer Bike' - I bought a Trek road bike from them a year ago, the service wasn't great but it was at london bridge and through bike to work.. the kids definitely get more attention from the real LBS we have in essex.'
I mentioned evans as, for a chain, they don't half know a lot about bikes.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Axsman, hybrid is perfect if you don't like road (racing bike) style handlebars.
Surprised I don't see more of them being used by commuters. Rather they tend to favour "full suspension" bikes for commuting to work.
A hybrid is basically a road bike with (non-riser) mountain bike style handlebars and a triple chainset. Personally I prefer proper road handlebars for my road bike - if you like them get a road bike instead.
As for brands, have a look at Ridgeback. I have one of their bikes. Mine is a "Genesis model", the entry one. I've just looked at their site:
http://www.ridgeback.co.uk
Looks like the Genesis range has been renamed to "Flight". For your budget, you could get the Flight 02.
As the owner of several bikes (2 mountain bikes, road bike and hybrid bike), I can say:
1) Don't get disk brakes for road use
2) MAKE SURE YOU WEAR A HELMET
3) Try "clipless pedals"* - no need to get "road" shoes, I ride my road bikes with mountain bike shoes so I can still walk on them
* if you try clipless, you WILL need to find a field and practise in that for a while because YOU WILL fall off at the beginning. After practise, you won't ever forget to unclip.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
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Hydraulic disk brakes are brilliant for road use and need far less adjustment and tinkering than any other type of brake (I wouldnt ever go back to rim brakes), avoid cable disks like the plague as they are a pig to set up properly. Bleeding hydraulic brakes is dead simple and normally easier than aligning and toeing in rim blocks
About the £300-£400 range will get you a nice mountain bike. You can use a mountain bike to cycle on road, towpaths, off road , pavement, off kerbs etc. Same cant be said for road bikes or commuters. a good hybid (marin) will also suit you. Get 26" MB wheels and then you can get all sorts of rubber for off or on road use. 700 wheels have very limited off road rubber available.
I would definately go front suspension if you are cycling anywhere other than flat glass, or carbon forks if on a roady. Rear suspension is fantastic on a good bike and bloody awful on a halford special
Makes I would be looking at
Marin
Specialised
Trek
If you are planning to leave it locked up in a public place forget the above and go to halfords and get a cheap Apollo, you wont mind when it gets nicked.
Clipless are wonderful, but expect some prat falls while you get used to them
Me, I build, repair and service bikes for a living, so know a thing or 2 about them
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Bikeandsnow wrote: |
Axsman, hybrid is perfect if you don't like road (racing bike) style handlebars.
Surprised I don't see more of them being used by commuters. Rather they tend to favour "full suspension" bikes for commuting to work.
A hybrid is basically a road bike with (non-riser) mountain bike style handlebars and a triple chainset. Personally I prefer proper road handlebars for my road bike - if you like them get a road bike instead.
As for brands, have a look at Ridgeback. I have one of their bikes. Mine is a "Genesis model", the entry one. I've just looked at their site:
http://www.ridgeback.co.uk
Looks like the Genesis range has been renamed to "Flight". For your budget, you could get the Flight 02.
As the owner of several bikes (2 mountain bikes, road bike and hybrid bike), I can say:
1) Don't get disk brakes for road use
2) MAKE SURE YOU WEAR A HELMET
3) Try "clipless pedals"* - no need to get "road" shoes, I ride my road bikes with mountain bike shoes so I can still walk on them
* if you try clipless, you WILL need to find a field and practise in that for a while because YOU WILL fall off at the beginning. After practise, you won't ever forget to unclip. |
A colleague has flight 2 (I've just had a look) and it really does seem to suit your needs.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Thanks all for the very helpful advice.
I went for a Trek 7700 2009 model Hybrid. I added a lightweight rack, waterbottle, pump (mine was bust), small bag, trip computer , a pair of non-lycra cycling shorts, a high vis waterproof jacket (that folds away to the size of a sausage roll) oh and a helmet
The bike has 'integrated' front suspension, so less weight (and travel) than an off roadie, but still some ability to soak up the bumps. The shimano gear set is better than with the lower models in the range and I thought that justified the extra cost. It fits my body too. Total cost was, oooops, Just over a grand , ces't la vie, don't tell Mrs Axs
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Nice bike. Strong and robust. The shimano gearset will be easy to repair and or upgrade (if needed). Good choice, if expensive for the spec (but treks always are). Will last you a long time
Big hint. DONT buy a lock. That way you wont be tempted to leave it anywhere its going to get nicked. There are VERY VERY FEW locks on the market worth more than 20 seconds to a thief. Most are about 5 seconds including many D locks and chains. Anything based on a cable is a joke as even the cheapest cable cutters will go through them like butter. If you do need to lock up your bike (and I would even in the house) there is only one brand worth considering ALMAX http://www.almax-security-chains.co.uk/index.asp?pg=7
Oh, and I bet you'll end up changing the saddle within 2 weeks!! SDG Bel Air recommended, similar style but wont cause as much pain and will be lighter
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