 Poster: A snowHead
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Need to move front binding forward a bit as too small (just) to fit boots. Back binding as far back as it will go. They're on a Marker Motion plate on Volkl skis - around 5 years old. Tried taking off front binding but plate still fixed and unmovable - even with screw at side with padloick symbol turned to unlocked position.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Vipa, Thanks - excellent but looks like the model I have is slightly different but looks like it should be dead easy as the bindings look as though they should be able to slide along the rails
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Quick (but related) hijack - is the little shiny 'M' logo in the middle of the current series of Marker system bindings supposed to be a midsole mark, or is it wholly unrelated to the setup? Ta
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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| boabski wrote: |
| Vipa, Thanks - excellent but looks like the model I have is slightly different but looks like it should be dead easy as the bindings look as though they should be able to slide along the rails |
any way you could take a pic of one and post it on this thread?
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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boabski, you need to remove the locking pin so you can slide off the toe & heel pieces etc. The locking pin is the item you've described as the "screw at side with padlock symbol turned to unlocked position." You're right in the it needs to be turned to the unlocked position but then you need to push it out from the opposite side. The toe & heelpieces can then be slid off the rail. Thetoe & heelpieces are connected to each other by the boot sole length scale which you can now lengthen to match the boot sole length stamped on your boot. Now slide the whole assembly back on the rail & re-insert the locking pin & turn to the padlocked position. Note that you will now also have to check the forward pressure adjustment at the rear of the heelpiece - as the heel was already at it's longest length it's highly likely that the forward pressure will need to be increase, ie the heelpiece will need to be moved forward towards the toe. I recently posted instructions & a pic on how to do this so do a search under my username.
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take it into shop
smile
ask them to adjust.
Say thanks..
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Prize goes to spyderjon, Thanks very much (the version I have you need to pull the screw out rather than push but worked a treat) God Bless Snowheads 
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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when the boot is a length 305. How do you set the front and back? do you set the front at the 300 position and the back at 310 or the other way around?
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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Hello, I was wondering if anyone can instruct me on how to adjust a Market M7.2 binding? I realize it's not the newest binding however I have a pair of skis that are perfectly usable and I just need to adjust the bindings for my boots. This post comes close but I don't seem to have the screw on the side of the binding that is mentioned. Thanks.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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arafaatv, welcome to snowHeads. Unfortunately the M7.2 binding is no longer on Markers Indemnified Binding List (it came off this season) so shop techs are no longer able to adjust them.
The indemnification list is not just a manufacturers sales ploy to get you to buy new bindings as most are only removed after many years but instead it is a list of makes/models of bindings that still test safely & without signs of plastic/metal degradation due to temperature changes/UV exposure etc. Bindings are removed from the list when they either fail to test within the industry (din) standards &/or age degradation is apparent.
There are plenty of people skiing on bindings that are out of indemnification that'll tell you they're ok to use but as a commercial operation I am unable to advise how to adjust them as my insurance would be void. Having had a number of out of indemnitiy bindings break on my testing machine my personal recommendation would be to replace them.
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Thanks for your reply.
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You know it makes sense.
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I'm new to skiing and bought some skis with Marker M7.2 bindings on them. I was wondering if anyone could instruct me in how to remove them from the ski. Thanks.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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johnnymmac08, welcome to snowHeads. As per my post above:
Unfortunately the M7.2 binding is no longer on Markers Indemnified Binding List (it came off this season) so shop techs are no longer able to adjust them.
The indemnification list is not just a manufacturers sales ploy to get you to buy new bindings as most are only removed after many years but instead it is a list of makes/models of bindings that still test safely & without signs of plastic/metal degradation due to temperature changes/UV exposure etc. Bindings are removed from the list when they either fail to test within the industry (din) standards &/or age degradation is apparent.
There are plenty of people skiing on bindings that are out of indemnification that'll tell you they're ok to use but as a commercial operation I am unable to advise how to adjust them as my insurance would be void. Having had a number of out of indemnitiy bindings break on my testing machine my personal recommendation would be to replace them.
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Poster: A snowHead
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spyderjon, I read the post from johnnymmac08 as "how do I take off the old bindings before I take the skis to a shop to get new ones fitted".
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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ris
No need the shop will remove the old bindings and plug the holes properly for you.
If you really are unsure best to leave even the removal to someone who knows bindings inside out like spyderjon.
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FAQ
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