 Poster: A snowHead
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would you? once, twice.. ????
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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New skis benefit from an initial wax to "clean" them, then a second to protect and lubricate.
My daughters race skis waxed 8 times before use.
My new skis- so excited used them straight away (some wax on from the factory), then give them a good waxing next day.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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I usually do one hot wax and scrape (ie scrape the wax off while still warm) with a cheap wax. Then at least one proper wax with a wax suitable for the expected temperatures. Scrape it off cold, then brush with a brass brush.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Yeah I'd wax them a couple of times. You can ski them for a day or two first though, it's not that critical.
You can also get base prep waxes that are equivalent to 5 waxing cycles.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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thanks everyone..
this is my ski waxing routine.. any suggestions for improvement welcome as i never seem to get a shop finish!
!. scrape with metal scraper
2. scrape with plastic scraper
3. very very occasionally clean with that liquid you buy for the purpose (am aware it can damage the bases so rarely use it)
4. brush with wire brush
5. melt wax onto ski & iron to spread evenly - aamoi i think i always put too much on! How many 5p size wax blobs per 10 cm of average width ski?? I use a
phillips travel iron set at the highest setting.. that ok?
6. When wax is cold scrape off excess with plastic scraper
7. brush with stiff (shoe) brush
8. brush with softer shoe brush
9. if feeling generous, final polish with cloth
should they feel a bit sticky after all that?
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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I'd drop the metal scraper for a start. How hot is the hottest setting? Most waxes don't like the iron more than 120 degC. If the wax smokes, then it's too hot
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potrzebie,
Definitely forget the metal scraper - these should only be used for removing excess P-Tex after base repair.
This is the routine I apply to my son's skis. I'll base it on his race skis, as his training skis don't get scraped!
1. When brand new, 'polish' base with rough structure pad to lift out excess base fibres left behind from factory finishing machine
2. Between 'polishes' run along a couple of times with brass brush to clean out base.
3. Melt base prep wax onto base and scrape whilst still warm - do this until removed wax is white and has no obvious black residue in it. This cleans out the base further
4. Put in a layer (or 5) of softer wax (something like Swix CH10). Leave each layer to cool, then scrape and lightly brush with brass brush
5. Once this is done, put on final layer of wax (dependant on snow conditions/temperature, that used in step 4. may well suffice)
6. Leave to cool, then scrape and brash brush until base looks nice and shiny.
7. Brush further with nylon brush, then finish with smoothest structure pad.
For CH10, the iron should be around 110C. Like uktrailmonster says, if it smokes, it's burning!
This should set you up nicely. Oh yeah - wipe on some Zardoz NotWax for a little extra......
For regular maintenance just skip steps 1 to 3.
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ok.. will take your advice re metal scraper..
don't know the temp of the iron but though it will melt wax onto the ski at a (slightly) lower temp, it doesn't spread very well unless its on high. Don't get any smoke or burning smells so i guess that's ok.
many thanks for the advice - can you recommend online sources of the waxes you mention?
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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| potrzebie wrote: |
| can you recommend online sources of the waxes you mention? |
I get Swix from Ski Bartlett when I go there for equipment or if I see TB at races - their website is...erm...a 'Work In Progress'. spyderjon does a good prep wax.
Online you can get the Swix here
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I use Dominator Zoom Base Renew (Purple) for initial waxing, with a final layer of Zoom Universal (Green). Also use Zardoz Notwax for a daily top up.
All available online from spyderjon in the link from JonL above.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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I'd second spyderjon,
great advice and quality kit - just re-rdered some Zoom base renew wax and universal wax.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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Hello
I too use what uktrailmonster uses.
Stick a single application of Purple Dominator Zoom and at least 2 applications of Lime Dominator Zoom.
This stuff is very hard wearing. I had an excess patch on my skis when I went to Val Thorens last April. I thought I had scraped off all the wax back home. The excess patch caused the ski to wobble at higher speeds. Very disconcerting. After scraping it off, no problem. There was no way it was coming off on it's own - the excess patch would have probably been on all week!
I'm using my new Liberty Skis for 4 days from Saturday. They've had 1 x purple and 2 x lime applications. On advice from the Liberty importer in Switzerland, I will stick another 2 applications of lime Zoom when I get back next week, ready for Val Thorens in 4 weeks time.
I do pretty much what Jon L does. Don't use the metal scraper.
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I would also endorse spyderjon as the oracle of ski tuning. All the relevant advice and stages of tuning is available on spyderjon's website. If you really want to follow up on this take a trip to spyderjon's in Nottingham for a tuning lesson. I did this with my brother in law last year - really good 
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You know it makes sense.
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I've just sold out of Dominator Purple Base Renew (Hairy Boy had the last block) but new stock will be here mid Feb latest.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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do you all scrape off ALL the surface wax at the end of waxing?
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Poster: A snowHead
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potrzebie, that's the idea, doubt many here try, doubt even fewer are successful.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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potrzebie, ALL wax is 'scaped' off or should I say surface removed. Its the wax that impregnates the ski\ board base thats important. There should be no no wax visible on the base, just a polished surface with a structure showing on close inspection.
What waxes you use is down to personal preference and experience. Some of the waxes are expensive.
I avoid using wax remover for anything other than my tools. It really drys out the bases.
My regimen is:-
After edge prep, do a hot wax and scrape while warm, to clean out the structure. Repeat this until the wax scrapings are clean.
Then apply wax, let cool for at least 1.5 hours. Longer if possible.
Scrape, brass brush, nylon brush
Repeat waxing brushing cycle as many times as you wish. The odd beer at this stage definately works well. I had 4 pairs of skis to work on so there was enough time to let them cool and have a beer!
Final brushing and polishing.
Spyderjon's ski tuning lesson is worth attending, very good VFM.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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| potrzebie wrote: |
| do you all scrape off ALL the surface wax at the end of waxing? |
As much as you can. A few passes with a sharp plexiglass scraper and a final brushing does the trick.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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thanks for all the help everyone.. got things much clearer now 
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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I have just bought a new board and my wife has just bought new skis. I was under the impression that wax would be required to fill the scars that the bases pick up but that these things were ready to go.
Do they need waxing first? If using a scraper to scrape off all excess wax, there would be no new wax at all on their pristine, perfectly flat, polished bases.
I can understand that racers will want to select the perfect wax temp for the day and even the time of day of their run but surely waxing new recreational skis (and then scraping it all off) is madness.
What have I missed. What are you trying to achieve?
Confused.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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| bar shaker wrote: |
I have just bought a new board and my wife has just bought new skis. I was under the impression that wax would be required to fill the scars that the bases pick up but that these things were ready to go.
Do they need waxing first? If using a scraper to scrape off all excess wax, there would be no new wax at all on their pristine, perfectly flat, polished bases.
I can understand that racers will want to select the perfect wax temp for the day and even the time of day of their run but surely waxing new recreational skis (and then scraping it all off) is madness.
What have I missed. What are you trying to achieve?
Confused. |
The ski/board base is porous and the idea is to melt the wax INTO the base. The excess wax sitting on top of the base is of no use and should be scraped off for best results. The purpose of wax is not to fill in base scars. Think of your bases as being like a sponge.
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I understand the sponge bit but isn't this already full of lovely factory wax?
The tech blurb on my board says (excuse the 'board talk') "If you like to ride really freakin’ ridiculously fast, look no further. Our Sintered N20 WFO Base takes dual temperature wax impregnation to scary-fast, chemistry-nerd levels. Understanding this science requires a PhD, so let’s keep it simple. By blending a combination of our most slippery formula with insanely strong materials, we are able to produce a super fast, low-maintenance base that’ll leave all your tuning guru friends eating dust in the flats. They waxed, you relaxed—and somehow you still beat them to the bottom."
I realise this is marketing talk but I assumed that the factory base would be really good and ready to go. But reading of people putting umpteen coats of wax on and then scraping it all off, on brand new skis (the base technology is the same) has me wondering.
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| Richard E wrote: |
| I would also endorse spyderjon as the oracle of ski tuning. All the relevant advice and stages of tuning is available on spyderjon's website. If you really want to follow up on this take a trip to spyderjon's in Nottingham for a tuning lesson. I did this with my brother in law last year - really good |
As are the coffee and biccies.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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I generally, walk into a ski store, buy the ready to go squidgy wax in a tube, stick it on at the top of the lift, have a coffee and ciggie, find something resembling a rough cloth and buff. this seems to do the trick 
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achilles, 
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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potrzebie, a good tip is before you apply your wax to the base, heat the base with the iron first then apply the wax
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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or leave your skis facing the sun, or leaning on a wall with a radiator beneath them.
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FAQ
