 Poster: A snowHead
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Is it ok to machine wash ski pants / jacket ?? From my experience in the past I seem to find that machine washing waterproof stuff tends to damage the waterproofing.
I think the label says its ok to machine wash.. (probably best to ask my mum.)
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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freebie, you might need to reproof with Nikwax or similar. And be careful with tumble drying. My jacket changed colour 'cos the drier was too hot. Natural drying would be safest.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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It might come down to the quality of the garment, but I've not experienced any problems with our ski wear, most of which is 3 years old and has had at least 8 washes. None of the gear allows moisture to penetrate. That said, after the next trip I think we'll wash the jackets and salopettes with one of the products that re-proofs, just to be on the safe side.
Again, I'm sure the quality/make of the garments will make a difference - ours are all either Eider, Degre or Columbia.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Weel to be honest the quality is pretty poor,
I bought this stuff 2 years back when I was at college and was on the tightest of budgets.
The salopettes are made by Trespass and cost less than £50, gonna buy some better ones on the weekend tho. The jacket was bought from the Quicksilver store  and is more of a fassion accessory (what was I thinking). The jacket cost about £90 - £120 I cant really remember.
Mark H, - Is that a product that you put in the washing machine while washing??
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Don't use normal detergents, use either Grangers or Nikwax wash-in or soap flakes (cheaper). Some manufacturers and possibly even Gore themselves say to use detergent. Don't, it ruind the waterproofing, and fabric softeners ruin any wicking abilities. So washing them can be pretty cheap if you use soap flakes (some supermarkets sell them). Tumble drying can be fine on a low setting, and if you've re-proofed the garment as well is desirable as it improves the performance.
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freebie, from the last link from DB:
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| The selected restorative compound can be either sprayed on, or washed in by machine (or by hand). Follow the compound manufacturer's instructions. Nikwax, one manufacturer of restorative finishes says using their wash-in formula offers more complete, more thorough, and longer lasting coverage, but some people who have tried both indicate that the spray-on method has worked better for them. A spray application directly onto the outside fabric layer -- really soaking it well -- worked best, according to one user report. Even sprayed on, the repellency might only last several uses, not necessarily a whole season (unless you don't use the garment much). |
and
| Quote: |
| Nikwax TX-Direct - a water repellancy restorer for Gore-Tex. Available in both a wash-in formula and a spray-on formula. This should also be available from your local outdoor and paddling shops |
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Though for ski stuff, you probably won't need to worry about reproofing, too much. If you don't use soap flakes Nikwax do a "tech wash".
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Thanks for thoes Links DB - really helpful.
Gonna go out on weekend and get some new pants and call into Outsider to get some of this wash in stuff.
Not sure if my jacket is Gore-Tex or even breathable for that matter does that matter? Should still help to improve the water repelancy right?
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| Quote: |
| Not sure if my jacket is Gore-Tex or even breathable for that matter does that matter? Should still help to improve the water repelancy right? |
It should, though check what material your jacket is made of, then make sure you get the right stuff, both Nikwax & Grangers do a whole range of stuff for different materials. Nikwax do a fleece one, for example.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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whenever I wash waterproof clothing I use Nikwax Tech Wash, although soap flakes would do the job just as well. Grangers make a similar washing product.
as said above, do not use fabric softeners on any wicking fabrics (applies to base layers and fleeces as well)
Nikwax TX Direct is not actually a cleaning product and so if you want to re-proof with that you should do it in 2 stages - wash then re-proof.
2 layer jackets are fine (ie there is no material bonded to the inside of teh waterproof laminate) 3-layer goretex ones have a wicking layer bonded to the inside. If you used a wash-in re-proofer like TX Direct you would make that wicking layer water repellent - and so it would not take the vapour to the goretex as efficiently. Effectively your jacket will become waterproof in both directions!
Finally, tumble drying (not too hot!!) does "re-charge" the water repellency of the outer fabric - this will help breathable jackets breathe properly, which they cannot do if the outer fabric is waterlogged.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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You can also run the washing machine maintenance cycle first (for most this is just a hot wash, and is good to do every now and then anyway) which will also clear stuff out of the system.
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You know it makes sense.
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Also - remember not have anything else in the machine when you are re-proofing. Couple of years back I waterproofed a towel.............
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Kids have Quiksilver gear, washes great, but I have used the wash in waterproofing above.
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Poster: A snowHead
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I'm wondering this too, I have some pants from Austria made by Fellerhosen. There's no store to call to ask not sure if these are vintage pants pulled from someone's attic or if they're new.
Says do not wash, (not don't dry clean) but don't machine wash.
Unless symbols aren't american and I'm looking at my symbols here.
what do I do just hand wash? want to clean 'em
don't want to ruin the warmth factor.
wonder if I could put them in a little small hand wash portable machine with cold water.
I have total OCD everything needs to be clean.
Thanks.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Hi
I have a couple of North Face jackets and sallopettes and only ever wash them at 30 degrees on a gentle cycle using Grangers 2 in 1 Cleaner and proofer. Never let me down and water beads on the jackets as well as when they were new. Btw I also line dry mine rather than tumble drying.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Our washing machine conveniently has a "hand wash" setting 
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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I haven't washed my ski kit in 9 years, waiting on a conclusive answer from this thread...
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Instead of nikwax or soap flakes use dripak liquid soap flakes in big tescos 750ml @ £3 odd.
Its 3x nikwax wash size for half the cost so you can do loads also your baselayers all year round.
The flakes don't always melt when hand washing merino so I found this does it all but it was hard to find a stockist.
It wont block breathability or destroy waterproofing which I checked out this is the one and british made.
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i used to have Paramo gear (made by the Nikwax people).
My recommendation is
turn on washing machine on maintenance wash (hot wash) empty. or two washes empty.
Then put in clothing to wash with non-detergent soapflakes or Nikwax tech wash
I've tried the reproofing wash and i don't rate it except it is good for fleeces  . I got best results for post-wash reproofing with TxDirect hand spray. Used this jacket in the pissing rain in goals and as a forward under my top (it was blooming freezing other wise) so can vouch for this as a way to get all the gunk out of a jacket and renew it.
Had this smock from 1994 until 2006 and remained dry.
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Washed a cycling gore-tex shell in special cleaner and used a wash in waterproofer before. It didnt come out well, never as good again.
I avoided washing my skiing kit, it did well on the waterproof front for years. Then got married and found it getting washed in normal detergent after each trip and was wondering why it's (and even some new stuff we'd bought) waterproofness went downhill fast.
Have now rewashed the ski kit in Nikwax (but expensive so will swap to soap flakes) and used a post wash spray in waterproofer, seems to have restored some of its waterproofing although yet to test properly on next trip.
So I would say dont wash if you dont have to, and if you do use a post-wash spray not the wash in waterproofer. Tumble drying/ironing does help as well if ok on the label.
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