Poster: A snowHead
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Here's a pic of my Huber machine: http://www.jonsskituning.co.uk/content/view/26/39/
A manual device of the type you're thinking of was made by Vermont Safety but I'm not sure if it's still available: http://www.vermontskisafety.com/assets/files/VERMONT-RELEASE-CALIBRATER.pdf
Pretty straight forward to cobble a foot/lower leg assembly together to which you could attached a torque wrench. I've found very little variance in vertical release values on heel pieces but plenty of variance in lateral toe release so you're right to concentrate on that.
Give me a few mintues & I'll post a pic of the foot/leg unit from my machine.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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spyderjon, got wide-ski fittings for the Huber yet?
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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achilles, hopefully by Crimbo - my new toys are 112mm so I need them for myself.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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spyderjon wrote: |
achilles, hopefully by Crimbo - my new toys are 112mm so I need them for myself. |
Hmm - wonder what they might be
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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parlor wrote: |
I wondered if I could put something in the bottom of the boot, probably something foot shaped to take up the space - maybe a shoe tree? Extension bar up from the 'shoe tree' and then in to the torque wrench. |
Old boot could do the job..... drill a hole through the bottom and put a large bolt through with a nut on top, might need to use a countersunk allen bolt
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daehwons wrote: |
.....Old boot could do the job..... drill a hole through the bottom and put a large bolt through with a nut on top, might need to use a countersunk allen bolt |
Good idea if you can stay with one boot size.
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spyderjon, Hah! Most excellent. I'll add a bindings check on top of the servicing in the New Year, if that's OK.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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daehwons wrote: |
Old boot could do the job..... drill a hole through the bottom and put a large bolt through with a nut on top, might need to use a countersunk allen bolt |
Ohhh, that's a good idea. (Providing it then fits in all the bindings which include alpine and touring bindings).
So are we thinking this is more use that just seeing how much force it takes to kick the boot out of the bindings?
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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parlor wrote: |
daehwons wrote: |
Old boot could do the job..... drill a hole through the bottom and put a large bolt through with a nut on top, might need to use a countersunk allen bolt |
Ohhh, that's a good idea. (Providing it then fits in all the bindings which include alpine and touring bindings).
So are we thinking this is more use that just seeing how much force it takes to kick the boot out of the bindings? |
Been thinking about this a little bit more....
if its just a simple test you require that is easily done and provides a bit more than the good ole kick.....
get some boot sole thickness wood and trace and cut the correct size for your bindings x2
mount the two bits of "boot sole" wood to a 'taller' bit of wood so that you can clip the skis together...
here is the clever bit, two equally set binding of the same din should almost release at the same time when you twist the skis in opposite directions.
also the twisting can be done easier because of the leverage you have.
you could also put said test rig in vise with one ski and use a spring balance to provide the pull to test different bindings
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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parlor, not sure about using an old boot. Jon tested all my skis recently and the biggest problem was the boots themselves as they had a few gouges and scrapes that caused them to get stuck in certain positions when trying to release. filed out al the dings and they were much more consistent. There is also the sole wear to consider which may screw things up.
Cool idea on the torque wrench setup good luck with it...
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You know it makes sense.
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skimottaret, you're right about the boot, it's not going to work. The main exercise of this is to try and reassure Mrs P about her boots in different bindings, especially touring bindings.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Here's the foot/leg unit off my Huber. The foot is a series of links that retract inside the leg by pulling the red cord to allow for differeing shell lengths. The strap goes under the boot heel for testing the vertical heel release.
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