Poster: A snowHead
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When is it necessary to use an 8 mill basta*d file to sharpen edges instead of diamonds/alu-oxide stones?
I have skied about 15 days on my skis and never used a file yet, mainly just the alu-oxide stone.
My file is rather like the one shown here: http://www.slidewright.com/proddetail.php?prod=T4BT2017
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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GordonFreeman, When you are trying to shorten the life of the skis of someone you don't like.
Get something with a finer cut.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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I have some diamond files, which are probably better.
How sharp are the edges supposed to feel?
There are a number of nicks and stuff in the base edges so they don't feel anywhere near as smooth as they used to be. There are no hanging burrs or anything though.
A shop service essentially uses a file to sharpen doesn't it? No-one ever seems to have that many problems.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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GordonFreeman, that grade of file is waaaay to aggressive for general use & it's unfortunate that many of the tuning kit manufacturers supply their tools (especially the low end tools) with way too coarse files to unsuspecting customers.
I do a lot of edge filing & I only use a coarse/basta*d file (13 teeth per cm) to save time on initial edge setting & then I use a 2nd cut/medium file (16tpc) & then a fine/finishing file (20tpc) after that as a coarse file used in isolation leaves toom many striations in the edge. If I'm just sharpened a dulled edge to an existing angle then a few passes of the 20tpc file is usually all that's required. After filing I use diamond stones to finish the edge prior to removing the hanging burr with a hard gummi. All done on the side edge!
The base edge will pick up some dings but these just need to be dressed off smooth with a alu-oxide stone. An occasional diamond stoning of the base edge using a guide is all that should ever be done - removing the hanging burr effectively gives the base edge a light polish at each tune.
Filing should be kept to a minimum to avoid unnecessary wear & most of the time sharpening with a diamond stone(s) in all that's required - if it's done often enough so the edge effectively never dulls - the idea is to keep the edge in tune all the time so a little & often (daily on hardpack) is far better for wear & performance that a full tune that's then left to dull & then requires a full tune again.
Recreational skiers don't need anything coarser than a fine file, say 20tpc (teeth per cm) so I'd recommend getting something finer.
BTW, a shop service involves the edges being machine sharpened with a belt, not manually with a file.
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GordonFreeman wrote: |
......Just never seems as sharp or smooth as when a shop runs it through their machines? |
Should be able to scrape ya finger nail off when run across the edge (from base edge to side edge). It should also feel smooooth along the edge.
Many shop tunes will feel sharp/remove finger nail because either the hanging burr has not been removed properly or there there are still striations in the edge (the belts used are typically 60-80grit) & therefore lack that smoooothness.
A hand tune, done properly with the right tools, will be sharper & smoother than a machine tune. And it's the smoothness that gives durabilty as there are less/no striations so no peaks to burr over.
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Well, they feel smooth. No hanging burr as I took that off.
They won't take my finger nail off though ...
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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GordonFreeman, which means they're not sharp. You need a lesson!
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One pass with alu-oxide
one pass with high diamond
one pass with medium diamond
one pass with fine diamond
I put them in a vice sideways and use the edge tool at 1 degree.
Should be enough shouldn't it? I will give you that my diamond files are absolute shite, maybe I should get some proper ski diamonds?
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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GordonFreeman wrote: |
Should be enough shouldn't it? |
The procedure has to be adapted to what the starting condition is.
With good tools your procedure above may be sufficient to maintain the polish of already sharp edges after a half-day of skiing fairly good snow, it could even be sufficient to remove minor side-edge rust attack if the skis were improperly stored after that half-day, but it is not sufficient to recover dulled edges.
PS I use half day= 3 to 4 hours.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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GordonFreeman wrote: |
One pass with alu-oxide
one pass with high diamond
one pass with medium diamond
one pass with fine diamond
I put them in a vice sideways and use the edge tool at 1 degree.
Should be enough shouldn't it? |
As comprex says, that's barely enough if starting with decent edges. Try 4/5 passes of overlapping strokes with each diamond but you'll probably need a light file to start with if that's all you've been doing for a while.
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Okay, well I've waxed now and polished up.
I assume I can do the edges again?
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You know it makes sense.
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GordonFreeman wrote: |
Okay, well I've waxed now and polished up.
I assume I can do the edges again? |
Yep. I'm not a fan of base tape so if you're filing use one smooth continuous pass to bring the swarf off over the front/top of the ski (mask off the bindings) rather than overlapping strokes were you'll be lifting the tool back down the edge & depositing swarf over the back/base of the ski. And wipe down the edge between each diamond file.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Yeah, I should have read that properly:
Should be able to scrape ya finger nail off when run across the edge (from base edge to side edge).
I was running it along the actual edge ridge rather than across it.
They seem fine doing it properly.
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