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Forward Pressure Adjustment - Does it Matter?

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
My lovely new pair of Hart Attack skis have been mounted with Look PX12 bindings which are mounted directly on the ski. My problem is that when the boot is placed in the binding there is no room to adjust the forward pressure so the indicator is only about one fifth or a quarter of way in and not halfway as recommended. Is there any cause for alarm? Will it affect the safety/correct performance of my binding?

Is there any way to fine-tune the forward pressure or can it only be adjusted by lifting the tab at the back of the heel piece and sliding the heel piece forward and back?

Finally, what on earth is forward pressure for?

Any guidance would be much appreciated. Thanks.
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
This isn't the full scientific explanation, just how I understand it but: Forward pressure is the optimal point that your front and back DIN springs are calibrated for. So, if your forward pressure isn't correct, your heel/toe won't behave as specified. It's adjustable because different boot sole lengths require different pressure.

I'd recommend getting a tech to look at it. It's not really something you want to mess around with or leave incorrect for your knees sake.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
thewahwah, on the PX12 the screw should be flush for the forward pressure to be correct.
Who mounted the bindings, as this should have been adjusted when the bindings were mounted & tested.
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thewahwah wrote:
My lovely new pair of Hart Attack skis have been mounted with Look PX12 bindings which are mounted directly on the ski. My problem is that when the boot is placed in the binding there is no room to adjust the forward pressure so the indicator is only about one fifth or a quarter of way in and not halfway as recommended. .


You're not supposed to adjust it with the boot in the binding.


^NOT A JOKE^
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
thewahwah wrote:
My lovely new pair of Hart Attack skis have been mounted with Look PX12 bindings which are mounted directly on the ski. My problem is that when the boot is placed in the binding there is no room to adjust the forward pressure so the indicator is only about one fifth or a quarter of way in and not halfway as recommended.....

By that I presume you mean the yellow indicator in the window?
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Thanks for the responses, guys.

Wear The Fox Hat, the wonderful mike lindsay at unltd snowboards mounted the bindings, a real gentleman. silly me didn't bring boots with me when he did it. i just gave him the sole length measurement.

comprex, nope it wasn't in the binding so we're safe there.

spyderjon, yep, you presume correctly it is the yellow indicator.

where the heel and toe-piece is mounted, i don't think there is any room for adjustment for the forward pressure. i think it might be between ratchets if you know what i mean?
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
thewahwah, on that binding the forward pressure adjustment is also the boot length adjustment. Put a wide flat screwdriver under the metal tab & twist it gently to lift the tab & disconnect the toothed heelpiece from track. The heelpiece can then be slid back & forth. You only need to move it about 5/6mm before the next teeth engage. Have a play around with it moving the heel piece back & forth to see the effect of changes in the window.

You don't say is which direction the line is 'out', ie is the heelpiece set to it's longest or shortest length. It's ideal if you can adjust the length/forward pressure so the yellow line is central in the window but I wouldn't worry if it won't go closer than it is currently - unless you ski on a low DIN when a slight change in the forwward pressure is quite a big %age of the setting. So if say you ski on a DIN of 4 & your forward pressure is too high then you could drop back the DIN slightly by say 0.25-0.5 or if your forward pressure was too low you could increase your DIN by 0.25-0.5. Any minor chages to the DIN would only be done to the heel piece.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
spyderjon, thanks. as you have stated, the heel piece won't go closer. when i move it forward to the next tooth the boot is resting on top of the lever arm and won't fit. the forward pressure is 'out' in that the window is completely yellow. it is only when i raise the tab, while the boot is still in the binding, that the yellow line is central in the window (i.e. half black, half yellow). i assume that indicates that the heel piece is at it's longest length? the bindings are set to DIN 7 so i take it i have nothing to worry about?

Wear The Fox Hat, 'the screw should be flush'. i am not sure which screw you mean. can you clarify, please?
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thewahwah wrote:
spyderjon, thanks. as you have stated, the heel piece won't go closer. when i move it forward to the next tooth the boot is resting on top of the lever arm and won't fit. the forward pressure is 'out' in that the window is completely yellow. it is only when i raise the tab, while the boot is still in the binding, that the yellow line is central in the window (i.e. half black, half yellow). i assume that indicates that the heel piece is at it's longest length? the bindings are set to DIN 7 so i take it i have nothing to worry about?

Wear The Fox Hat, 'the screw should be flush'. i am not sure which screw you mean. can you clarify, please?

Yep it means that you've got a bit less forward pressure than ideal which is probably the 'better' error to have. I've you're not getting any pre-release probs then leave the heels at 7 but you can always add a tad more DIN if necessary.

I think Foxy was on the vino as he's talking about a different model that has a screw adjustable forward pressure system.

Looks like your man mounted the bindings too long though. Or if he didn't have a jig & mounted them freehand he made the common mistake of when measuring the length of forgetting to allow for the fact that the heel piece slides back in it's rail when the boot's clicked in, so in effect you have to shorten the boot length to compensate.
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