 Poster: A snowHead
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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The din is set by your weight, age and ability.
I set mine at 7 but should dial them back to 6 because I'm older and bones can break easier.
If you post your stats here I'm sure someone techie can help you, or recommend a shop that can do a proper binding check for you.
Last edited by Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person on Wed 17-10-07 11:01; edited 2 times in total
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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SnowHot, I'm fine with setting the DIN (mine's about 5.5 - I'm older than you I think!)...... its the "shinbone's head diameter" that's got me baffled.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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holidayloverxx, PM Spyderjon
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Linds, always a good idea - it was him who persuaded me to by the skis.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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| holidayloverxx wrote: |
| .. its the "shinbone's head diameter" that's got me baffled. |
Width of your knee.
There are two tables for DIN settings. Both use weight, age and ability but the final parameter is height for one, tibia width for the other.
I have always felt that the table that measures tibia head is going to be more accurate for female skiers, but most shops seem to use height.
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rjs, I've not come across the tibia width one - where can I find that table?
and do you mean width? the sticker says diameter...
Last edited by Then you can post your own questions or snow reports... on Thu 11-10-07 23:16; edited 1 time in total
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| rjs wrote: |
| I have always felt that the table that measures tibia head is going to be more accurate for female skiers, but most shops seem to use height. |
That's because most ski technicians get smacked in the mouth when they grope girls' knees.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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maggi, The shop could hand them a caliper so they could measure it themselves.
I'm getting tired of helping female friends off the hill who have blown knee ligaments.
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holidayloverxx, The Marker DIN setting chart is based upon sex, age, height, weight, boot length & ability classification. If you PM me the answer to these questions then I can tell you what your chart setting is.
Remember that the DIN setting is only accurate when the forward pressure adjustment has been correctly set to your actual boot. I'm pretty sure that your skis will have the Marker 11.0 bindings. With boot installed in the binding the forward pressure adjustment screw (located below the DIN setting screw on the rear of the heelpiece) should be flush with the face of the binding housing. Note: This screw must ONLY be adjusted with the boot removed from the binding or the internal ratchet/thread can be damaged. Here's a pic of an Atomic binding but the Marker 11.0 is the same.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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spyderjon, have PMd you. thanks for the advice. i wonder if Megamum knows about this stuff for her new wave magics?
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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I gave my vital stats to Gavin at Elan - I've looked at my skis and I think he's set them to 6. What I hadn't appreciated before is that there is a setting scale on the back and the front of the binding, both these seem to show a setting of 6, but it does imply, I think, that you could set the back differently from the front - now I'm def. not going to tamper with these, but I did wonder what was behind the two scales. holidayloverxx, Do yours have a scale on the front and on the back?
B.t.w. I did feel especially lucky that when I mentioned to Gavin my local shop was SkeeTex at Battlesbridge. He immediately siezed (sp?) on that info and said what a great shop it was, staffed by knowledgeable folks and that they were a dealer in the Elan skis for him. So I now have an ideal place to go to when I need to get the skis looked at 
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Megamum, yes, front and back.
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You know it makes sense.
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spyderjon, thanks - sorted
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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| Quote: |
but I did wonder what was behind the two scales
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I'm guessing the front scale let you know what the toe setting and the back scale for the heel setting?
Because the two peices are not connected by any wire so the toe scale doesn't know what the heel setting is?
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Poster: A snowHead
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Megamum, You need to set the din on both the front and the back, presumably the same. But if you don't have the scale on both, then how would you know where they were set?
They are not there to set differently, but because they are two separate pieces and both need to be set.
I am rambling, sorry!
holidayloverxx, you may be older than I am, but I doubt it. 
I recently celebrated my 41st birthday.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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As spyderjon mentioned, forward pressure can only be set when you've got the actual boot in the binding. Although you may have supplied the dealer your boot sole length in mm, he/she will only have set up an approximation - the final fettling of forward presure can only be done with the actual boot.
Just to confuse matters, there is also a variation of the DIN chart in France.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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SnowHot, sadly, I am old enough to be your big sister
veeeight, I've had a look, and I understand - thanks. I'm setting the bindings at the weekend.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Obviously, I don't know how some ski..but I would offer that DIN 6 is not a light setting. To come out of that, you would need to ski quite fast, quite hard or be quite heavy. Of course, it is all relative but a DIN 6 for a women is above average, I'd say.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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JT, quite heavy  I'll be setting at 5.5
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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holidayloverxx,
ok..it is just that you never really know and have full confidence until you come out of the them..or rather, that is the way I feel, which is why I use my twisting binding check. It just sets my mind at ease, that is all.
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JT, Probably even heavier - that might be why its on 6!
OK, so you can tell I've never really examined hire gear that I've been handed to any extent to even see how the bindings work, and have only just 'set to' with an examination now I have my own to look at.
SnowHot, Yes, the two pieces are not joined and I'd already realised that if both bits required setting there would need to be two scales. My confusion with the front dial stems from the fact that I didn't realise the front binding actually had a lot/anything? to do with the boot release mechanism. As far as I can see it doesn't move when the boot enters and leaves the ski and thought it just kind of provided a pocket to hold the toe of the boot, and assumed that the release mechanism was governed by the movement on the heel clip. NB. I was also surprised to see a series of little rotating balls in the toe of the mechanism and under the 'ball' of the foot on the base of binding a free running set of ridges running across the binding - sod it - that's difficult to explain - picture:
Now it may be that every binding has these and its more than possible that I've just never noticed - however, I begin to think more and more that your own gear must be better for you because you tend to take more notice of it and how it is constructed, what it all does (that's the bit I'm, clearly, still getting to grips with) and are therefore more likely to notice in the future if things aren't right.
holidayloverxx, Pictures of you with yours.......we NEED pictures that we can cheer about!!
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Megamum,
Imagine every way you can fall and the binding has to try and cope with that...if falling forwards, then typically it will be the heel release that does the work... if going backwards, you may need the fronts to release and it is these that have traditionally been the hardest to cope with. Backups and upwards asks a lot of a binding so the toe unit is every bit as important as the heel.
A lot of R&D has gone into these bindings over the years and I am not very up on the merits of one brand over another anymore, it is more likely brand allegiance and marketing rather than the kit being useless that determines sales. When you need a bit more of a specialist peice of kit then you will look at DIN range and ease of use in deep snow..or rather getting it back on again there. I'd venture there are some very nice units out there, but all should do the basic job of release very well.
Providing they are set up properly and serviced/checked..yearly, I'd say, you should have plenty of mileage in them.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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JT, That makes a lot of sense - thanks. I assume that a front release won't damage the bindings any more than a back release does, i.e. that they are not designed for a sacrificial release - I can't see any way that the fonts release in a similar way to the backs, or is this what the rollers etc. are for? Do they tip the toe of the boot out of the sides of the front binding? N.B. I don't, intentionally, expect to going backwards very often  , but its good to know that bindings are designed to release in this way should they ever need to.
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Megamum, I suggest you have your whole set up 'looked at' in resort and explain your standard ... '6' sounds quite high to me ( mine are set lower than that, I,am heavier and I possibly ski faster/more stupidly ) . Putting it down to 'weight' as your judgement call could be dangerous ...
There are loads of 'experts' here you can PM with your weight ( like The Bootfitters and Spyderjon to get a 'double check')
You can also find 'din' calculators online - but the experts here sometimes suggest against using them for safety reasons etc .... but no harm in checking those for fun and seeing how the variables work?
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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Agenterre, Small boots make a big difference to the required setting.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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Agenterre, Please believe me - I had nothing at all to do with the setting of my bindings - I just gave Gavin at Elan my figures and he sent me the skis already 'set up'. I think it looks like they are set at 6 front and back - the little markers on the scales seem to line up with the number 6 anyway. I sure as anything wouldn't even attempt to tamper with them myself even if an expert on here suggested that I should try - that's a job for a qualified person in a shop IMHO
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rjs, Oops, true .... should have mentioned .... than again mine are Mondo 25 or 26! .. I was CEM'd ! ( Not very big feet for a 1.80 guy !)
Edit - Agreed, get an expert to do it .... but no harm in checking Gavin's work with someone here ? You are reading them correctly afaics.,,but I'm not there !
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You know it makes sense.
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Megamum, I'm sorry to have over explained. I was in a bit of a goofy mood last night when I posted.
I usually set my bindings and check the forward pressure. But then I've been a gear geek for some time and have a bit of experience with it.
As veeeight suggested, you may want to take the skis to a shop and have the forward pressure checked. I can't remember, have you had them waxed just yet? If not, then the bindings can be checked at the same time.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Megamum,
Can't quite see if those rollers are completly round or more like wheels...but the theory is on the lines of... backwards/upwards fall needs the toe to lift up out of the binding.... other falls can be dealt with by rolling out of the side of the toe peice. Salomon used to have the toe piece pivot up for this reason.. I am not so sure where that thinking has gone, these days..
As long as you aren't going switch, you'll be fine..
Last edited by Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name: on Fri 12-10-07 13:52; edited 1 time in total
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Poster: A snowHead
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As long as you aren't going switch,
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Not me! Not on purpose at least 
For interest the bits in the toes are like wheels (little rollers with a central axle) - so can only move through their vertical axis rather than beads in a hole which could move in any direction.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Megamum, Those are Tyrolia bindings (rebadged as Elan).
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a series of little rotating balls in the toe
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That's to accomodate the toe of your boot, will auto-adjust and centre to any boot toe, and will release the toe-piece when the force goes beyond a pre-set value (DIN). Called a TRP Toe System in Tyrolia speak. That particular model of Tyrolia binding will release the toe piece release the toe 180 degrees in vertical plane and horizontal place, and no, it's not sacrificial, and yes, it's designed to do that.
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a free running set of ridges running across the binding
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That's the AFD, or Anti Friction Device, essential to the toe release strategy. All bindings will have a version of this, some brands do it with teflon, rather than a moving roller. Salamon used to do it with PTFE and that stupid spheric ball thing. In Tyrolia speak it's called the ABS, Anti Blocking System.
The forward pressure check mechanism is completely different to the Marker bindings that Spyderjon described earlier, on the Tyrolia it will be a scribed scale on the rear of the rear binding.
It sounds extremely unlikely that your forward pressure has been set, you need to get that checked by a Ski Tech. To re-iterate spyderjon: Remember that the DIN setting is only accurate when the forward pressure adjustment has been correctly set to your actual boot.
(as an aside - true story - client turns up on the mountain for a lesson, high end intermediate, I notice his toe is set to 13 and heel set to 6. Apparently Slush & Rubble had done this to compensate for not setting his forwards pressure correctly )
If you want to go into depth about bindings etc. the following threads are good places to start:
http://snowheads.com/ski-forum/viewtopic.php?t=26207
http://snowheads.com/ski-forum/viewtopic.php?t=16906
http://snowheads.com/ski-forum/viewtopic.php?t=16865
http://snowheads.com/ski-forum/viewtopic.php?t=11489
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Megamum, you mention weight being the possible reason for your bindings' setting. When I had my 1st ever lesson at Xscape, the person there asked the embarrassing question (and as you know I am probably heavier than you and not quite as tall!). They looked at the chart and said for my weight the bindings should be at a 7, but as I was a beginner maybe they'd bring them back to 6.5!
When I then went to Serbia, there was a great tech guy in the hire shop who was horrified at this. He said they should have placed far more importance on height (5'6"), age (50) and the fact that I am not only a beginner, but a nervous one - he said experience and professional judgment is far more important than charts which should only ever be a rough starting point. He recommended a setting of perhaps 3.5, certainly no more than 4. I skied there at 3.5 and fell a few times, the skis staying put attached to my boots.
On returning to Xscape I asked for DIN 3.5 the next time and was told that was far too low for my weight which is a very important factor - I told them about the techie in Serbia, and looking dubious they agreed to compromise on 4, but were obviously not really happy. Since then I have just confidently plonked a boot on the desk and said DIN 4 please". It has not been queried again, and in all the various tumbles I've had they have never come off so I am sure they're not too tight. I know they should come off if I fall in a certain way, I just have probably not fallen that way yet and all my falls have been at very slow speed apart from one, and that time I essentially just sat down.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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| SnowHot wrote: |
The din is set by your weight, age and ability.
I set mine at 7 but should dial them back to 6 because I'm older and bones can break easier.
If you post your stats here I'm sure someone techie can help you, or recommend a shop that can do a proper binding check for you. |
As newskier points out, age is a factor in a big way. As you age, and bones become more breakable, the din goes down.
I've been a bit too proud to set mine back just yet. Maybe after I twist a knee or break a leg I'll swallow my pride enough to set it back to a 5 or 6. 
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