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TR: La Grave Feb 07

 brian
brian
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Arno has covered the content and JT has already linked to this but since we're in post season quiet and there's not much trip action happening, I'm crossposting it in case anyone else missed it ....




La Grave, it's a name familiar to practically every semi-serious skier and to more than a few hyperbole prone journalists. In a world of manicured slopes and high speed quads, this is the rough and ready end of the market. One antiquated lift, no patrollers, no pistes. Beneath the sheer rock spire of La Meije, they're quick to point out that you're skiing here at your own risk.



As we made our way slowly up the mountain in one of the little trains of cabins, I felt somewhat more nervous than usual. Of course, skiing with a high mountain guide, we had someone to look after the safety angle and there's no way that they will take you anywhere they perceive you will be a liability. But having come here as part of a group meeting each other for the first time I hoped I hadn't bitten off more than I could chew and would end up a tail end Charlie !

We set off after our guide, Francois, down the Chancel side of the mountain in almost Scottish conditions, horizontal snow in a biting wind, but we soon dropped into some more shelter and started to find our rhythm in 10-15cm of nice, soft windblown snow. As we dropped below a layer of cloud we could see a bit more and followed Francois, picking our way through a rocky traverse to find ourselves at the top of the Couloir Patou. This was going to be quite a warm up. The first few metres were very narrow but it opened out a bit and the snow in here was a bit deeper, making for some lovely skiing. We were the first visitors of the day. Luckily our group had been well matched and having nailed those first few turns, all apprehension was gone. This was going to be a good trip !

Next up was the classic Vallons de La Meije, the La Grave "trade route". Although the guides here know every bump and hollow of the mountain so every time you'll be on a different variant. By now the weather was clearing and we were getting a proper look at the majestic scenery. From the top of La Meije to the valley floor is a drop of over 2500 metres of glacier clad rock, quite a sight.



We made our way back to the top and had lunch in the little restaurant, punctuated by the occassional beeping of avalanche transceivers being put on and taken off. After lunch we were off towards the Vallons again, but this time we quickly headed off to the right through a succession of progressively narrower gaps through the rocks until eventually our snow ran out with a steep rocky slope tumbling beneath us. Beyond us we could see a drop of 6 feet or so leading into a small couloir running diagonally across the mountain into a much larger one.



Francois had a quick look and launched himself into the drop, landing perfectly placed in deep soft snow only a couple of metres wide. Good job skis are short these days Wink The rest of us took our skis off and passed them down one at a time before scrambling our way in. A bit awkward in clumsy alpine boots and more than a little exposed, it was very reassuring to hear the click of the bindings going back on. This was one of the Couloirs de la Pointe Trifide, Trifides for short. We were taking a slightly lower entry into number one.

The first few turns in our tributary had to be quite precise but once in the main couloir we had room to enjoy the 30 cm or so of fresh snow accumulated there. Again, we were making fresh tracks, and with little sloughs of snow coming down around us, it was like being in your own little ski dvd heaven. Exhilarating Very Happy



From below we looked back at our line with some satisfaction.



From there it was down through the trees and eventually back to the village, good cover right to the bottom but getting a bit heavy for tired legs.

Day 2 started amid heavy snowfall. First off it was back to the top and into the Vallons, but the visibility was pretty poor so after we'd made our way below the treeline, we skied a couple of runs between the intermediate stations, staying in the forest. Francois showed his knowledge of the mountain extended to practically every tree, finding ever tighter lines between them. Of course he skied all this at full speed, whistling, rolling eyes but for mere mortals (especially those feeling their legs a little from the first day) it was pretty tricky and to be honest I was pretty glad to be heading back up to the top for lunch.

Once more the afternoon was greeted by clearing skies and as we headed down the Chancel side we got the full benefit of the fresh snow. Grins plastered from ear to ear. My legs were pretty shot as we got back to P1 and I did worry a little that they wouldn't be up to much on the third day, but how could I not join the others in going back for more ? Again we took a different route on the Vallons, whooping it up in the powder and finally back to the bottom. By the time we'd climbed up from the bridge at the valley bottom to a well earned beer, it was nearly 6 o'clock.

On Day 3 I opened the hotel window to the happy sight of even more fresh snow.



Thankfully my legs had loosened up a little and conditions were practically perfect.



In places the snow was thigh deep and the skiing was the best I've experienced. We had changed guides as Francois had a teaching appointment, so it was a little unfortunate for his replacement, Manu, that he got us on day 3. With a little bit of tiredness creeping in, we took it in turns to have some fairly interesting wipeouts. As the avalanche risk was up to 4 (out of 5), a bit of caution was required and Manu spaced us out accordingly, only allowing one at a time on some of the steeper pitches.

In all we skied from the top 4 times, the second descent incorporating the Couloir Banane.



This one had been tracked out but the snow was still deep and soft. Like the masochists we are, we made the last descent all the way to the village, the hill back up from the bridge seeming to gain a few extra metres each day.

All in all, 3 fantastic days of skiing. Our timing was more than fortunate and we certainly made the most of all that fresh snow. Thanks to John, Graham, Dave, Phil and Ian for being such excellent companions and to Charlotte for introducing us and vetting ability-wise. The group worked out famously and I think there's a pretty decent chance we'll be getting together in La Grave some time in 2008. Wink


Edit: the Trifides and "tracks" pics belong to Arno.
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
brian, cheers - happy memories!
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
You are right to repost this stuff in May, cheers us all up and it is a slack time.

They are nice shots and it is impressive stuff. I am, of course, envious.
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Happy memories for me as well as I was with the SCGB trip at the same time.

I think we did Banane on the same day but you lot get there first and probably had the best of it. Still you can't win 'em all and it was still well worth doing.

Great trip.
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
richjp,

Good to meet you...going again next year? your trip sounded a blast and I loved your slide show.

We will be going, probably early March again as long as we can think of a huge wind-up for Robin... how about telling him his guitar-playing sucks.... ?? worth a free stay...???? Laughing Laughing Laughing
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Nice TR - can't wait to get out there sometime. looks awesome
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
JT wrote:
richjp,

Good to meet you...going again next year? your trip sounded a blast and I loved your slide show.

We will be going, probably early March again as long as we can think of a huge wind-up for Robin... how about telling him his guitar-playing sucks.... ?? worth a free stay...???? Laughing Laughing Laughing


It was good to meet you as well.

If you intend winding Robin up, I would like to be there to see it, although I would appreciate advance notice so I can stand well away.

No riff raff!
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
richjp, .... I am working on a very cunning plan which is bound to cause Robin 'some anxiety' ....... Toofy Grin

....plus to add to the nostalgia ....



"The La Grave Guides Parliament Building" ......

Will we ski today, or will all those Guides get the best of it .... ?
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BernardC,

Thank you for that Bernard. That is largely our group with me in the middle with the light coloured helmet and blue backpack, back to camera - my better side obviously.

The glum faces tell a story at that moment, however I think that may be one of the days we went over to Serre Chevalier and ended up with a very good day.
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We all went down to LG and this was the view we got of the big hill...... somewhere up there, you ski...!!



Yep, down there.



Brian, of course, couldn't wait to get started...plus it was bloody freezing hanging about



Graham and Arno chomping at the bit into Banane. Fatbob is already half way down in the pic..!



Arno soon knew he had brought the right skis for this type of caper...
Brian is the skier on the right



Graham says "get on with it, you wusses... I wanna go"





and then he drops in..



then its Phil to go..

http://www.skierslodge.com/FL/testfl11.html
The route we took was straight down the middle...click on start to see the routes unfold.
Courtesy of skierlodge.com


Brian, Phil, Fatbob and Graham at P1 wating for another ride... probably over 7000mtrs that day....they say..!! A tough days work...but someone has to do it...Laughing Laughing



I can't for the life of me see why Arno has this big grin going on...!!! Laughing



Manu and Brian..yep, up again..!!


Next installment is same time, next year and if it is half as good................!!! Madeye-Smiley Madeye-Smiley Madeye-Smiley
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JT, Sadly I'll have to wait till I get home to see all the photos - they were taking too long on this very slow dial-up (28,800) that I'm on here! Looking forward to it though. Very Happy
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Banane is great. We also did the Fréaux Couloir which comes out on the road about 2 miles down from LG - now that is really steep and tight!
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So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
norris,

So many couloirs, so little time...just have to go back and tick a few more off. We can start with the guide book ...Laughing Laughing
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 brian
brian
Guest
norris, we passed the top of the Freaux on day 2, heavy snowfall clearing. Our guide reckoned it might be a go-er for the next day but more heavy snow that night killed the idea I think. Just as well given the state we were all in by day 3 Laughing

Looked good from the top though !
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
I like the constant updates they get from other parties about calls like this. What we set out to do and what the conditions allow can be completely different things. But as there are so many options, it isn't a problem in realilty.

Having said that, I'd love to do it.. I have a wish list of about 10, at least..Laughing
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 brian
brian
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JT, still fancy La Rama wink
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
brian,

Well, south facing and into St Christophe, sounds a good trip, but very weather dependant.

Sure, if we must, we must.

P.S...I will post you a few pics of the Dam run. I will post it here as well, when I get time.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
A life time of incredible skiing in LG, but not often in condition...if only it had the snowpack of British Columbia wink
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I remember doing La Grave a few years back, our decent coincided with the Derby de la Meige. Turns out it was the day before the competition and people were practicing.

Now the wait on the small little gondola back up was about 4 hours. Shocked

I was only 15 at the time as well, I was absoultely bricking it at certain parts skiing down.

We did end up sharing a bubble with one of the few british entrants that year though, very insightful into how damn insane you have to be to try the race.

I took the leftmost route shown on that link in the first post. Easier, but I was still chuffed afterwards. Very Happy
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
quick question re multiple peeps skiing the same colouir with no much space between you, I was always taught to let the skier ahead ski the colouir and stop in a potential slide friendly place to that if the next skier fell or set off a slide it wouldn't affect the rest of the group???

So was it powder frenzy, or did the guide ok to ski so close?

regards,

Greg
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kitenski,

Depends on the group and the gully. In my pics the gully isn't steep enough and the snow was deep so you will not go far... Most of the group allowed a couple of turns between them.
Tighter and steeper with fresh snow will need more thought. No hard and fast things but you need to be aware and talking to each other, IMV

I have a few pics for you...so PM me an address and I will try and fire some over. I am not hosting them anywhere.
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 brian
brian
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kitenski, the guide ok'd it. In some places we were called down one at a time, in others we got bollocked for waiting too long Laughing
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Finally got around to posting a few of my piccies from this trip. Unfortunately my camera was in the process of dying, so it was pot luck when it worked and when it didn't. Here's one of the group at the bottom of Triffides though (JT was suffering from coming directly off nights so unfortunately had split by this time):
.
The rest of the main trip is covered well by the others (and I have no piccies)...so onto the 2nd half of the week, .

Day 4 was a Bluebird day with loads of fresh snow on the ground. JT and I went off to Serre Che to ski with Mr and Mrs chris - doing a whole load of stuff around the Villeneuve area. BernardC actually rocked up in LG that morning too, half a day earlier than planned, but just 5 mins after we'd left for Serre Che - so he had to make do with thigh deep powder all day in LG Sad . Over in Serre Che the anow was great, although very slightly crusty as the weather system had come through a day earlier here. Spent all day enjoying the skiing so didn't bother getting the camer out.

Day 5: The weather was still closed in and raining in LG, so the place was closed. We headed off to Serre Che again, and did pretty much the same area as the day previously - i.e. Crete de Balme, spreading out a bit to Clot Gaulthier and Cucumelle.
The lovely snow from the Balme to Cucumelle ridge initially caught JT out, but then he shook off the snow-foxes and got going


We'd been eyeing up some nice north facing pitches over on Clot Gaulthier during the day waiting for the sun to soften them a bit - but clearly so had a load of other LG refugees, as between us heading for it and getting there a load of tracks suddenly appeared. First BernardC, and then JT:


Day 6: We'd planned to go over to LDA to meet up with easiski and then head down to St Christophe with our guide. The weather wasn't playing ball though with very poor vis, a bit of snow and a fair bit of wind. The guide sportingly reckoned he'd not be able to contribute anything in these conditions, so we spent the day skiing in bounds with Charlotte instead. Even so, we had some wonderful skiing, and we even managed to see the slope in front of our faces from time to time Laughing . Towards the end of the afternoon it cleared up a bit, and we headed down towards town...where for some unknown reason my camera managed to record another JT tumble - this time ending upside down inside a tree! At least he was the right way up by the time my camera decided to work.


Day 7: Weather still rubbish in LG, so back over to Serre Che again for more blue sky - and to our familar stamping ground above Villeneuve. After a week on some great skis (Stockli DP Pro, Black Diamond Havocs/Kilowatts), today I was having a complete nightmare being completely incapable of handling the Movement PowPows I was on - resulting in a big fall coming down off the Cucumelle ridge and a long walk in very deep snow to retrieve an errant ski (big thanks to BernardC for retrieving it), and very nearly a bad twinge on my knee. Eventually we finally got around to doing the couloir off the Crete de Balme. It starts with a quite broad but fairly steep (40 degree plus) pitch, then opens out to a 30-35 degree slope that seems to go on for ever.
BernardC on the runout, and the look back up


And from half way down you get a lovely view over where we'd been skiing before lunch


Day 8: The weather still conspiring against us and LG is still closed, it having been raining cats and dogs at village level all night. The snow up top would no doubt have been staggering - but no doubt avvy level of at least 5 (this was the day that pretty much the whole Tarentaise was shut). Again head over to Serre Chevalier, but this time the Monetier area, to meet up with chris again, who shows us the important bits before leaving us to our own devices. We mostly end up on the north face of l'Yret - again it was pretty much unskied when we were scoping it out, but about 20-30 people headed up there just as we were on the lift. The snow was still fantastic with it frequently cresting over the knees. We did intend going over and doing the Balme couloir again, but they closed the link due to avalanche danger - fortunately just before we got on to the wrong side of it. As we headed up for another run, there were a load of Scandi's heading left through a warning sign down here...

...whic was just too good to miss. This is a run actually outside the ski-area and just into the Ecrins national park - the Tabuc valley - but it's very regularly skied. On the entry to it we also hooked up with another Brit who had been spinning cycles of pretty much the same, who then led the way with not inconsiderable style. Halfway down though we hit the snow/rain divide and the snow underfoot became incredibly heavy...just in time for the long track out - really challenging our turning and speed control abilities. The day finished off with another run or two down l'Yret.

Oh, and just to show Snowheads marking their territory - BernardC, JT and a Snowheads sticker in the Edelweiss bar:


Due to a miscommunication over the hotel room, we didn't have a room for that night, so BernardC had very kindly volunteered his pad in La Plagne, so of we trotted than evening.

Day 9: Crowds and lift queues Shocked ! I hardly ever do mainstream resorts these days, so hardly experience these now, and it was a bit of a shock. JT also had a bit of a shock when he was taken out by some unpleasant Frenchwoman on pretty much the first run of the day - which messed up his arm enough he had to quit. Not good. BernardC and I managed to get around a reasonable amount, in the glorious sunshine, but were very aware of havin to finish in time to catch the plane out that afternoon, so had to be fairly restrained. I have to say that was probably a good idea though, as after 8 days of pretty hard skiing, my legs were starting to let me know it's a very long time since I last saw 30 Sad .

So overall a great week, with the shine slightly taken off by only actually getting up LG for 3 of the 9 days, but that's part of the price you pay for having an unspoiled, unpisted, unblasted freerange ski area. I'll be back (and already have been Wink )
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GrahamN,

Very nice.. I have got heaps of stuff of SC to post...so will have to post in sections.
I'll put this up pretty soon.

P.S shoulder took weeks so as not to feel any twinges so I amglad no lasting damage.
Nearly had to pull out of next weeks golf tournie in Cannes but it came good quite recently....golf game is still marginal tho' Laughing
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GrahamN wrote:


Due to a miscommunication over the hotel room, we didn't have a room for that night, so BernardC had very kindly volunteered his pad in La Plagne, so of we trotted than evening.



Ah a confession you were the true culprits evicted for spoiling Robin's evening wink
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